Ghetto Huaman Serrano is a native of Cusco, and a natural as a guide. He’s been scrambling around the Peruvian Andes for decades, leading expeditions on through the Sacred Valley and along remote stretches of the Inca Trail. Recently, I organized a “black diamond” hiking trip with some friends I’ve known for years—likeminded men who, like me, needed some time to think. That route took us from Cusco to Machu Picchu through sections of trail none of us had explored before.

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