The Pacific Surfliner (2) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 26

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Arriving at the Santa Fe Depot in San Diego:

The Pacific Surfliner (2) opens as the train reaches San Diego downtown. The station is called the Santa Fe Depot. It was built in the Mission Style and the main entrance at the front looks like a Cathedral! (See Photograph 009).

The station has a wonderful tiling. The domes are particularly splendid (see photograph 010) and is a good example of the importance attached to railways when the station was opened in 1915.

The station is the southern terminus for Amtrak's Pacific Surfliner and the North County Transit District's Coaster services. It is also on the Green Line of the San Diego Trolley light rail service. In 2019 the trolley was the 5th most used light rail system with over 38 million rides.

The amazing tile work continues inside in the main ticket hall / waiting area although some of the facilities provided at the station would benefit from modernisation.

We start the journey north:

The northbound Pacific Surfliner retraces the route I took a few hours before. We pass the Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve which, although it is within the San Diego city limits, is one of the wildest stretches of land on the southern California coast.

As we pass along the coast the weather improves, the sun appears, and we pass along the stunning coastline. Solana Beach, Oceanside and San Clemente Pier soon pass and we take a final look at the ocean before heading inland.

The stations quickly roll by:

San Juan Capistrano, Irvine, Santa Ana, Anaheim and Fullerton quickly pass. We're soon on the final approach into Los Angeles Union Station. I reach the end of my six thousand three hundred and twenty two mile journey across the United States.

All I have left is a night at the Doubletree hotel in Downtown LA before leaving for my flight home. The hotel has served as a base on this trip. This is the third time that I've passed through LA in two weeks. I've received immaculate service from the very helpful staff.

10th April - homeward bound:

I make my way back to Union Station one last time. The Airport bus runs from the plaza. As I pass through the station I decide to have one final treat. I ask Marco to shine my shoes. The Best Shoeshine and Repair really is the best! My shoe have never shined so bright. In September 2019 they featured in an article in the Los Angeles Daily News.

With shining shoes I go along the station under track walkway one last time to the FlyAway Airport bus service to Los Angeles airport. It is a bargain at $9.75!

Soon I'm London bound on the British Airways serv...

The Pacific Surfliner (1) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 25

Leaving Los Angeles Union Station:

The Pacific Surfliner (1) opens as I board the train. My morning has been bit fraught as I didn't realise that you needed ID in order to buy a railway ticket! I had to go back to my hotel, grab my passport and get back to the station to get my ticket and board the train.

At least I make the train with 5 minutes to spare.

It appears that quite a few people board this train instead of the northbound Coast Starlight. The conductor makes an announcement to ensure that there are no stray passengers.

As we leave Los Angeles we pass through an industrial area.

Fullerton:

The Pacific Surfliner reaches our first stop at Fullerton. I stopped here on the Southwest Chief nearly two weeks ago. Nearly 400,000 passengers used the station in 2017. We pass through the usual industrial belt as we leave town.

Anaheim:

Anaheim is our next stop. This is a very modern looking station. Thruway buses operate from the station for those going to the Disneyland® Resort; Amtrak passengers travel for free.

Santa Ana:

The historic looking station at Santa Ana. The station opened in 1985 and cost $17 million to build. It is amazing as the station looks so traditional. We leave Santa Ana on time!

Irvine:

The next station is Irvine; another modern station opened in 1990.

As we travel south from Irvine we pass through some lovely countryside. The stations come pretty quickly on this line!

San Juan Capistrano:

As we progress south places seem more laid back. At San Juan Capistrano much of the station appears to be a bar-restaurant. It does benefit from some lovely palm trees. The town claims some antique shops, quaint cafes and historic (!) buildings.

San Clemente, Oceanside and Solana Beach:

We return to the coast shortly before we reach San Clemente station. The train stops next to the magnificent pier. If the sun had been shining I might have got out and paddled in the sea.

Our next stop is at the beach community of Oceanside where the weather is certainly getting better.

Our journey along the coast is magnificent.

We soon reach Solana Beach. You really can understand why the Beach Boys made such happy music!

San Diego Old Town

This episode ends as we make the very short stop at San Diego Old Town station.

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The Coast Starlight (4) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 24

Santa Barbara:

The Coast Starlight (4) starts as we approach Santa Barbara. We are running beside the road and I see a sign that tells me that the next nine exits are for the city.

Quite a few passengers leave the train at Santa Barbara. We leave the station 53 minutes late. The conductor (guard for UK listeners) is confident that we'll make up the time.

As we leave Santa Barbara we pass through an expensive part of town with houses that access the beach.

Along the coast:

The Coast Starlight continues south along the coastline. The day is nearly over, the sun is setting and dusk approaches. Here a highway runs between the rail track and the sea.

There must be something very special here because we pass an area with cars and campervans parked along the edge of the road. The parking bays are even marked out for the camper vans.

East, away from the coast, to Los Angeles:

It is dark by the time that we reach Oxnard. The station is used by Amtrak's Coast Starlight and Pacific Surfliner trains and also by Metrolink commuter trains.

The observation car is now deserted so I return to my reserved seat for the rest of the journey. I could be in a library, the train is so quiet.

Our next stop is at Simi Valley. The train has been travelling up the Simi Valley since we left the coast.

After Simi Valley the next stop is at Van Nuys. A modern station with much of the structure rebuilt in 1995. Just one more station before journey's end!

Our final stop is at Hollywood Burbank Airport station. In normal times this unstaffed station hosts 40 trains a day. Nearly 74,000 Amtrak. Less than 30 minutes later we arrive in LA Union Station. We're late, but not nearly as late as we were only a few hours ago.

I have now travelled between Portland and LA on the Coast Starlight, I don't know which part of the route is best as there is so much to see. I've loved the Cascades, the Klamath Falls area, the Cuesta Grade and travelling along the Pacific coastline - how can I choose? This route travels through truly beautiful countryside.

My advice - book a journey on the Coast Starlight between Los Angeles and Seattle - you won't be disappointed!

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The Coast Starlight (3) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 23

Descending the Cuesta Grade:

The Coast Starlight (3) starts as we pass through some of the tunnels at the summit of the Cuesta Grade. We descend at a rate of 2 feet for every 100 feet forwards. Because of the incline passenger trains are limited to 30 mph and freight trains 25 mph.

There are horseshoe turns where I can see both ends of the train from my seat in the Observation car. The highway runs parallel with us for part of the journey. We pass through beautiful scenery with many valleys on the descent.

Below me I can see the Stenner Creek Trestle, built in 1904 from components fabricated in Pittsburgh. The components were brought west by rail.

Near the bottom we pass a State Penitentiary. Dr Timothy Leary, a leading member of the 1960s psychedelic counterculture, apparently escaped from here.

San Luis Obispo:

We arrive at the station at San Luis Obispo as the late running northbound Coast Starlight is about to leave for the climb up the Cuesta Grade and on towards Seattle.

As we pass some modern housing beside the tracks we see a father, with his young child, waving to us as we pass.

On the edge of the Pacific Coast:

We reach the Pacific coast after travelling through an agricultural area. We emerge through the dunes and see the sea!

The journey along the coastline is one of superlatives. We are so close to the sea. We are only a few feet from the edge. At times it is probably only 30 feet (10 metres) above the beach. So close to the Pacific Ocean.

We travel through the Vandenberg Air Force Base - the train goes across the base where no road would be allowed to go.

We travel for over 100 miles along the stunning coastline. For people in Britain think Dawlish on steroids!

On to Santa Barbara:

At the end of the journey we turn inland towards Santa Barbara. As the episode ends the conductor announces that we'll arrive in 10 minutes.

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The Coast Starlight (2) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 22

South to San Jose:

The Coast Starlight (2) starts with the conductor announcing that we'll shortly arrive in San Jose. We've just gone through Santa Clara.

As we approach San Jose we pass a Caltrain depot. Caltrain runs commuter services between San Francisco and San Jose. There is a $1.9 billion project to electrify 51 miles of track.

As we progress I see the concrete stubs in the ground which will have the cable masts bolted to them. A little further on they're pouring concrete.

Visitor from the Netherlands:

I get the opportunity to speak to a visitor from the Netherlands. After a period in Portland, Oregon, he is now working his way south through California.

He tells me that he'll be returning home after a few more weeks. We talk about the differences in the railways in the Netherlands and the US.

Into the countryside:

We pass through an area of fruit trees. Then past ploughed fields, the Santa Cruz mountain range and Mount Hamilton before we reach Gilroy. Gilroy is the garlic capital of the world!

We then travel through the Pajaro Gap and as we start to descend we pass a large quarry. There are many rail cars being filled with aggregate in the sidings at the quarry.

Agriculture:

As we carry on southward we see people working in the fields, large irrigation systems an early crops growing. We reach Salinas which is known as the artichoke capital of the world - two world capitals in a very short distance.

Our route takes us on to Paso Robles. On the journey we pass an area of Nodding Donkeys pumping oil.

The Cuesta Grade

This episode ends as we reach the crest of the Cuesta Grade and start the steep downhill journey to San Luis Obispo. Find out more here.

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The Coast Starlight (1) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 21

Emeryville:

The Coast Starlight (1) starts with my arrival at Emeryville Station, bright and early, on Monday morning. I spent the weekend at the Hilton Garden Inn on the waterfront by the Bay Bridge. I can see the station from my room in the hotel.

We soon learn that our train is delayed. I could have had another hour in bed. The station is busy, there are people waiting to board the Coast Starlight, the Capital Corridor, the California Zephyr and the San Joaquins services. Commuters are also arriving to start the week's work.

The station has a 'greeter'. She's a lovely lady and tells people who are going to Sacramento to visit the California State Railroad Museum. She describes it as the 'second best railway museum in the world'. She tells me that the best is the National Railway Museum in York!

Our train arrives, we board for the journey south and I make my way to the Sightseer Lounge.

Oakland, Jack London Square:

The 5 mile journey from Emeryville to Oakland, Jack London Square, is scheduled to take 15 minutes. We pass Oakland's large port area and the train travels down 1st Street before arriving in the station. The square is named after the author, journalist and social activist Jack London.

We see that the delays are due to 'congestion'.

The station opened in 1995 to replace the 16th Street Station which had been badly damaged in the 1989 earthquake. The station is named after C L Dellums who was a long time Oakland resident. He was a co-founder of the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters.

South through the Oakland suburbs:

Our journey south is through an area that shows the divide in the US between the rich and poor. Many people have a view of a wealthy, scenic California but take the train and you see a different side.

We pass piles of rubbish, probably the result of fly tipping, near the the Oakland Coliseum Stadium and also in the streets to the south of it. The train has frequent stops, no doubt because of the congestion. One stop shows the divide, a squatter living between the track and the fence with decent housing behind it.

The scenery improves:

Once we get free of the Oakland suburbs the countryside improves. We pass marshland at the side of San Francisco Bay and also the Don Edwards San Francisco Bay National Wildlife Refuge. Our next stop is San Jose.

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The San Joaquins - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 20

Thruway service from LA to Bakersfield:

The San Joaquins starts with my arrival back in LA Union Station on Saturday morning. I go to the Thruway bus terminal at the side of the station for the journey to Bakersfield.

There are two Thruway busses waiting for the Bakersfield passengers. We hear the announcement for the northbound Coast Starlight as we wait. Once my luggage is loaded on to the bus we set off.

Bakersfield:

We arrive in good time. The Amtrak California train is in the station waiting for us. Once the crew are ready we board the train and have the options of Airline or table seating.

The Thruway bus depot at Bakersfield is quite large because busses go to various parts of LA as well as Palm Springs, San Bernardino and Las Vegas.

Bakersfield is a significant city, the ninth most populous in California and the 52nd in the United States.

Our train leaves 3 minutes late.

Travelling north across central California:

There are a number of stops along the route because this is a regional train rather than a long distance train. A large number of commuters use this service on weekdays. We stop at:

* Wasco - our first stop is 24 miles northwest of Bakersfield.

* Allensworth - a special stop missed on my journey.

* Corcoran - the station is known for its Spanish Revival architecture.

* Hanford - the original station, built in 1897, survives.

* Fresno - Mission Revival station from 1897.

* Madera - platform with a shelter.

* Merced - for connections to Yosemite.

* Turlock-Denair - platform with shelter with 4 trains each way per day.

* Modesto - a modern station (1999) with waiting room.

* Stockton San Joaquin - Mission Revival station from 1900, restored and reopened in 2003.

West to the coast, then South:

* Antioch-Pittsburg - an unstaffed station.

* Martinez - a busy station because it hosts Amtrak's California Zephyr, Coast Starlight and Capital Corridor trains in addition to the San Joaquins.

* Richmond - journey's end (for me) because I'm using the BART system to take me to my hotel. The station is described as 'post-modern'.

For completeness, the last two stops for the train are:

* Emeryville - the first new station in northern California in over 60 years.

* Oakland - in Jack London Square, the heart of the port area.

More about those stations in the next episode!

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The Sunset Limited (8) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 19

Ontario, CA, next stop:

The Sunset Limited (8) starts with us running some hours late through southern California. Our next stop is Ontario. We are well into the outskirts of Los Angeles.

On our approach we pass large marshalling yards with complicated track arrangements. We pass a lumber yard followed by an industrial gases site. A wide range of different industries.

I talk to a music teacher who is on his Spring break. He hates flying and loves the way that you see the country unfold when on a train.

On to Pomona:

It is only a few miles from Ontario to Pomona, the journey takes around 10 minutes! We pass yet more freight yards. It is difficult to see the scenery as my view is blocked by trains with containers double stacked.

Next stop - Union Station, LA:

We're told we'll be in LA in 30 minutes, I wonder... There is a lot of graffiti, its everywhere I look. Painted on trains, walls and bridges. We pass a team cleaning it off. I wonder - is it worth it? Someone will come back to the cleaned space tonight.

The conductor announces that the Thruway bus to Bakersfield is being held until we arrive and special arrangements are being made for passengers to join the Coast Starlight which left earlier. We hear details for the other services that passengers are joining.

At Union Station:

Back where I started eight days ago! Its been an adventure. I've met some fantastic people and seen some amazing places. Tomorrow I start on the next section of my adventures.

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The Sunset Limited (7) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 18

Nearing the border town of El Paso:

The Sunset Limited (7) starts in the far west of Texas as we approach El Paso. El Paso is a 'border town' with Mexico. We pass oil refineries, sidings and rail cars waiting to be filled to transport the oil across the US.

Our stop in El Paso:

We are still running some hours late and our stop at El Paso will be shorter than usual. There is a crew change at El Paso and we can get out for a breath of air. As the stop is being 'expedited' we are asked to stay near the train.

Our arrival in El Paso coincides with the call for those wanting an early dinner. If we'd been on time the call would have been for those wanting a late lunch!

The train is heading directly into the late afternoon sun. We say our farewells to people we've met on the journey, re-board with a new crew and set off. We climb out of El Paso for the 90 minute journey to Deming.

Overnight:

It is a wonderful sunset. We travel through the night passing through a number of small stops. There is our last 'air break' at Tucson. Most have gone to sleep by the time we arrive.

Morning:

I awake at 6.30 a.m. as we reach Palm Springs in California. We are still some hours behind schedule. We should have been in LA at the unhospitable time of 5.30 a.m.!

I breakfast and, as we approach Ontario (California), we pass orange groves and commuter traffic slowly driving along the roads.

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The Sunset Limited (6) - US Rail Journeys Series 2 Episode 17

Near the Southern Border of the United States:

The Sunset Limited (6) continues our journey across Texas. We are near the southern border of the US and will later start to see the agriculture made possible by the Rio Grande.

The land certainly isn't as bare as it was earlier, we pass an orchard and some ploughed fields with people working in them. This is certainly more hospitable than earlier when all we saw was a few cattle.

Some of the agriculture is supported by large irrigation systems.

Trying to catch up?

As we pass from agriculture back into semi desert the train picks up speed. I wonder if we are trying to recover from some of the delays that we've had earlier.

As we pass through the semi-desert we see a few birds of prey circling.

Points failure:

We slow and then stop. Lunch comes, and goes. People doze in the sun although the air conditioning is keeping the temperature pleasant.

We wait because there is a freight train ahead of us. Then we hear that there is a points failure. Two hours pass before we start again. There is a further delay because the eastbound Sunset Limited has to pass before we can proceed. We should have left El Paso over two hours before it arrived!

We finally get going again and as we approach El Paso, hours late, we reach 80 mph.

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