For a long time, I’ve been intrigued by Eugene Qiao’s brain—one I’ve picked on several occasions, not least for a reality check and a unique perspective on Italian and Australian wine culture. A Chinese student destined, seemingly inevitably, for medical career, somehow turned up in Barolo and entered the fold of a family where thinking differently is the norm.

This conversation with Eugene makes for a nice complement to episode 35, which featured Giuseppe Vaira. She gives an outsider’s take on the customs and people of Piedmont, as well as its wines. There are plenty of new areas to probe and opportunities to delve deeper.

I especially enjoyed Eugene’s take on cuisine, climate change, alternative varieties and the versatility of Nebbiolo—including a thoroughly informed impression of how Australia is travelling with this beautiful grape.

A little context will help, starting with the Vaira family tree. It was Giuseppe’s father, Aldo, who interviewed Eugene for her role. With his wife, Milena, Aldo founded G.D. Vajra in 1972. It takes its name from Aldo’s father, Giuseppe Domenico Vaira, even though he did not work in the wine industry. (The family name is written with an ‘i’; a printing error in the early days led to the adoption of the ‘j’ styling.) It was, in fact, on the farm of his grandfather, Carlo, that Aldo had his first taste of vineyard work. These days Giuseppe and his siblings, Francesca and Isidoro (Isi), head up the business. They are all mentioned in our conversation.

Isi is given credit for the way he assisted Eugene early on, especially thanks to his devotion to Piedmont’s lesser-known indigenous varieties. We talk about his pet project, a vineyard in Farigliano, where this is a focus. The commune lies within the production area of Dogliani DOCG (a Dolcetto appellation), where the Vaira family’s Monterustico wines are grown.

Some of the grapes mentioned are the red varieties Freisa, Slarina and Chatus and the white grapes Nascetta, Bian Vert, Manzoni Blanco, Rossese Bianco and Baratuciat. You’ll find these in blends such as the G.D. Vajra Rosso, Luigi Baudana Dragon Bianco and Monterustico Bianco.

Nebbiolo features heavily—how could it not?—and among the variations, we speak about the Italian regions of Valtellina and Alto Piemonte, the light, juicy red style the family produces under its Claré J.C. label, and Australian exponents such as Patrick Underwood (Little Reddie), Tess Brown (Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown), Pete Graham (Domenica; read more here) and Stephen Pannell, whose Protero wines are grown in the Adelaide Hills. Steve speaks very affectionately about his time with the Vaira family in episode 30.

The G.D. Vajra Barolo vineyards we discuss are Coste di Rose, Bricco delle Viole (both in the commune of Barolo) and Ravera (Novello), while the blended Albe wine is from three sites in Barolo (Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta).

Food’s an important subject, too—always, and especially in Piedmont. Apart from the hong shao rou (red braised pork belly) and jaozi dumplings of Eugene’s homeland, the local specialities of carne cruda (raw meat, especially from the Fassona breed of cattle), baccalà (dried and salted cod), finanziera (offal stew) and tajarin al tartufo bianco d’Alba (egg pasta with white truffle) are all on the menu.

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