Of course I was wearing dark clothing when I bit into that first beignet at the new home of Morning Call Coffee Stand. And of course some of the powdered sugar I just heaped on its golden shell drifting down to decorate my shirt. Just as surely as a strawberry sno-ball paints your palate red, eating a beignet means wearing some of it. Here’s another truth: New Orleans people love it, because they love every part of the beignet experience, because it is ours.