It’s one thing to say that a place has culture. It’s another to witness how the people of that place share a culture, how they use it, how it brings them together. That is one of the really gratifying things about New Orleans food. It’s a culture with a long history and many mothers and fathers. But it’s also one for the here and now, as immediate as the next meal, and it’s one that’s refreshed by each generation. This is been on my mind lately because New Orleans lost one of those mothers.