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John “Doc” Ewing was born and raised in New Jersey. The surfing bug bit him hard, so as soon as he enrolled in college in the mid seventies, he bee-lined straight to San Diego. There he discovered Mexico, which led him to explore the globe, finding niche areas where he could keep a surfboard with friends and visit year by year. Doc has some magnificent tales of surfing Europe before anyone realized there were world class waves to be ridden, and how living out of a Volkswagen in the seventies was perhaps the most efficient way to travel and live.
Enjoy the story of a man who was present in the infancy of the surf industry as we know it, taking advantage of connections in Bali to make a buck in the United States. Now Doc is a carpenter, with a multitude of skills learned during a life well lived. He may tell you about some of his favorite waves, but you’re not going to hear about his secret spots, just small indicators only a local would recognize.
Doug Deal has been surfing all over the world for over 50 years - 40 of those years here on Oahu's North Shore.
This week we hear a story from our host Cole, and an interview with The Surf Strength Coach: Cris Mills.
Cris' primary goal is to help surfers improve their bodies, through movement, exercise, nutrition, and the foundations of athleticism, so they can keep surfing. It’s that simple. He's all about "Surf Wellness"
West Coast surfer Ted Meyer hangs with Surfer Life host Cole Allen
Aussie Andrew Carruthers sits down with SL to share some of his experience with us.
Cole heads to Orlando FL to showcase some of the latest and greatest
Nate is an East Coast surfer with the kind of passion, talent, and humor that proves he's cut from a different cloth. We caught up with Nate on Hawaii's North Shore when he was fresh from surfing Sunset Beach's HIC Pro.
Nate spent 2014 surfing the ASP (now WSL) circuit racking up points and experience. In this episode he shares some of that with us - enjoy!
Johnny “John Boy” Mateu isn’t your standard surfer. He’s like so many other surfers we share the water with on weekends. He’s a weekend warrior who shares his passion for wave-riding with his passion for shredding concrete. The generation of surf inspired Z-Boys from Venice Beach, CA are Johnny’s role-models, and he has taken his talent for skateboarding and translated that quite effectively into surfing.
Johnny has surf stories, skate stories and life experiences more gnarly than many I’ve heard. He stays soulful while still embracing the culture of searching and destroying. At the same time in his work he has found a quieter side, tooling leather for a living with his pit-bull at his side. Johnny’s not the surfer who watches the swell forecasts like most I’ve interviewed, but when I hear him describe what others might call a mediocre ride as one of the most influential moments in his life, you know his love for catching waves runs deep.