We’ve been to many nice drive-thru lights festivals across the Midwest, but the Lights of Joy in Shipshewana, Indiana, tops all we’ve experienced, in our opinion. The two-mile drive packs in over three million LED lights, creating a truly magical effect. Here is a video preview.

From light tunnels and arches, to individual holiday characters, lights are jam-packed on the grounds. We were happy to see the display includes multiple nativity scenes, keeping with the true meaning of Christmas.

If you’ve been to the Lights of Joy in the past, don’t expect to have the same exact experience this year. Every year, they move things around, add new pieces, and swap with other lights festivals around the country. So each year the experience is different.

We were amazed at how large some of the pieces are. One of the new pieces is huge! It’s a 120-foot long by 35-foot high Smoky Mountain-like theme… all done in lights. Gorgeous!

The castle, a fan favorite, is back in 2024. But, an orb field of about 80 lit-up balls of various sizes and colors lies in front of it.

Besides the lights, the Shipshewana Lights of Joy has added several anamatronics, as well. Be sure to roll down your windows to hear the message from Humphrey the Horse. There is also a series of huts with scenes from “The Night Before Christmas.”

The Shipshewana Lights of Joy is a joint project between Blue Gate Hospitality and Shipshewana Trading Place and is held on the Shipshewana Auction & Flea Market grounds. In 2024, the festival begins on November 22 and runs through December 31. It’s open from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and until 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Closed Thanksgiving Day and Christmas. For admission fees, ticket purchases and other information, check the festival website.

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As you drive up the coast of Southwest Michigan, you pass through beach town after beach town dotting the shore of Lake Michigan. All of these towns have a beach, of course, most have a downtown area filled with shops and eateries, and the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail leads to wineries throughout the region. But, each of these towns has its own personality. In this article we’re taking a look at six unique Southwest Michigan beach towns we visited this summer that we’re sure you’d enjoy, as well.

Although casinos are sprinkled throughout Michigan, the only one in the beach towns we visited is Four Winds Casino in New Buffalo. We made a point of going on a Wednesday, which is senior day. If you’re 55 years or older and have a Players Club card, you’ll get a discount at the casino’s restaurants on senior day. You can also enter free drawings for prizes throughout the day.

Also in New Buffalo is Redamak’s, an iconic diner that began in 1946 as a small tavern serving burgers and such. We’ve watched as the restaurant expanded over and over again through the years and has become a Southwest Michigan icon. Redamak’s is a seasonal restaurant, typically open March through October and is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. We make it a point of stopping in for a burger whenever we pass and they’re open—except on the weekends, when the crowd waiting to be seated often overflows into the parking lot. Yes, it’s that popular. 
Read more about Redamak’s.

The next town north that we’re featuring is Saint Joseph. What first attracted me to Saint Joseph is the Silver Beach Carousel, located a stone’s throw from the beach. At one time there was a Silver Beach Amusement Park, but it closed in the early 1970s. Today’s carousel is not the same one from the amusement park, but several of the horses are replicas of those on the original ride.
Read more about the Silver Beach Carousel.

You can also tour a lighthouse in Saint Joseph. Although a lighthouse is not unique in Southwest Michigan (there are lots of them). not all of them provide tours as Saint Joseph does. Tours of the Inner Light (there is also an Outer Light) are available on the weekends throughout the summer months. Unfortunately, we visited on a weekday, so we didn’t get to tour, but we did walk out on the pier to the lighthouse. Access the lighthouse via Tiscornia Beach, also called North Pier, adjacent to the St. Joseph River.

Moving on to South Haven, a big resort area with lots of festivals. From a big New Year’s Eve bash and Ice Breaker Festival in the winter to several summer festivals, South Haven knows how to celebrate. We made it to the National Blueberry Festival this year, at least to the blueberry pancake breakfast part of it. And what delicious pancakes they were, even better than the ones Skip makes (and his are yummy, too).

We would have explored more of the Blueberry Festival (crafts, market, blueberry pie eating contest, etc.), but we came across the Michigan Maritime Museum and decided to go inside. We ended up spending more time there than we thought we would. The museum includes both indoor and outdoor exhibits, with many of the indoor exhibits interactive. Some of the exhibits focus on kids, so they would enjoy the museum, as well. There are more buildings outside of the main museum, including one filled with vintage Coast Guard boats in it.

The museum also has several boats docked at the pier. One of the boats, a U.S. Coast Guard Motor Life Boat, built in 1941, starred in a Disney movie. My favorite boat, though, was the Friends Good Will, a replica of an 1810 top sail sloop. A museum staff member standing outside saw me admiring the boat and invited me on to take a closer look. The really neat thing about these boats is that you can ride in many of them, including the Friends Good Will. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for a ride while we were there, but we’d love to go back and do that, especially the Friends Good Will boat.

The next town north is Saugatuck, which has an artsy vibe. The town is known for art galleries and antique shops throughout the the downtown area, along with trendy restaurants and boutique hotels.

However, the highlight for us was just north of the town—the Saugatuck Dune Rides. It’s something I’ve been wanting to do for a long time but just never have, even though we get up to Southwest Michigan quite a bit. So, we made a point of doing it this year.

You board a five-row dune buggy, so it holds quite a few people, and ride through the hills and curves of the sandy dune roads. It stops every now and then while the guide talks about the history and landscape of the area. I was surprised to learn about the town of Singapore. Singapore was once a thriving lumber town, which is now buried beneath the dunes. I was just as surprised to find out that the several cottonwood trees we saw at one site, were actually only two trees. What we saw were only the top branches. The rest of the trees are buried, going down about 150 feet into the dunes.

We also got off the dune buggy for a few minute break and were invited to walk through the dunes and check out the scenery.

As we were riding back to the start/end point, we were traveling through a wooded area with sandy trails. Apparently, all the roads in the area used to be that way. It happened that L. Frank Baum, author of “The Wizard of Oz” had a vacation home a short distance north of there, near Holland, Michigan. Some believe that the narrow, sandy roads lined with heavy woods was the inspiration for the Yellow Brick Road.

Holland was big for us, since that’s where we were based during this summer’s visit to the area. So, we focused a lot on that city.

According to Trip Advisor, the top attraction in Holland is Holland State Park, which doesn’t surprise us. The park includes a beautiful beach and a great view of Michigan’s most photographed lighthouse—Big Red. You can’t walk right up to the lighthouse because you’d have to go through private property to do so. But, there’s a great vantage point from across the channel, on the beach.

Beyond the beach, Holland offers lots to do, including several attractions that celebrate the area’s Dutch heritage. One afternoon we drove over to the De Klomp Wooden Shoe and Delft Factory. The building is a large gift shop, but one side of it is windowed, where you can watch artists at work. One woman was working on the delft pieces when we visited. Earlier she had poured a clay substance into molds. When we saw her, she was unmolding and trimming them. She explained to us that they’d go through another process before the artist painted the pieces.

We also watched the wooden shoe carving process, done on vintage machinery. The shoes they make there are meant for decoration, as the insides aren’t finished for regular wear. They do sell wooden shoes you can wear, but those come from the Netherlands and are made on modern machinery that can produce the shoes faster and cheaper. What a fun process to watch, though!

Another Dutch-related attraction is the Windmill Island Gardens. The gardens are a main point of interest during the annual May Tulip Festival, when the tulips are in full bloom. But even later in the summer the garden is fill with beautiful flowers. A big highlight here is De Zwaan, a windmill that came from the Netherlands. In fact, an old blade from the windmill sets on the ground next to the windmill. That blade is full of bullet holes, shot through during World War II.

Inside the windmill, you can climb up five floors. Each floor includes a different exhibit that explains the milling process. Although this mill can still process grain, it hasn’t done so in a few years.

Also at Windmill Island Gardens, Dutch-garbed guides take you behind the beautiful Dutch organ and explain how it works, similar to a player piano. Gift shops are fun to browse through, and a carousel offers rides to children.

Another Dutch-related attraction in Holland is Nelis’ Dutch Village. We didn’t go there on our recent trip but have been there a few times over the years. In fact, several years ago we took our grandkids there. They loved it, because there was so much for them to do, including rides, a petting zoo, cookie making, and lots of photo ops.

As an adult, I enjoyed the Dutch dance performances and demonstrations in cheese making, Dutch delft making and more.

Read more about Nelis’ Dutch Village.

Holland isn’t all about Dutch attractions, though. There is plenty more to see and do. We especially enjoy the downtown area, filled with shops and eateries. It seems the downtown area is always bustling. This summer we were there during a sidewalk sale. Streets were closed off and filled with bargain-priced goods from the local retailers. Last fall, we were there during the Fall Fest, where we watch pumpkin carvers and street performers.

We usually end up in the food-related shops, and there are a lot of them. I especially like Fustini’s, an oil-and-vinegar store. We like to taste several different balsamic vinegar flavors before deciding on one or two to buy. In fact, I enjoy tasting the vinegars more than I do tasting wine…although we did some of that this summer, as well. And I can’t leave out Cherry Republic, which always has samples out. The dark chocolate covered cherries are so very yummy.

One very unique thing about Holland’s downtown is that the streets and sidewalks are heating during the winter. That means no snow and no ice, so you can shop without a slushy mess.

If you’re a Wizard of Oz fan, make sure you visit Centennial Park to see the giant “Wizard of Oz” book made with plants. Across the street at the public library are sculptures of “Wizard of Oz” characters. The characters don’t look like the movie versions. Instead, they were inspired by the original drawings in the book.

Why the “Wizard of Oz” in Michigan? We mentioned earlier that L. Frank Baum had a vacation home near here, and he apparently wrote at least part of the story while at that vacation home.

One evening we went for a ride from Holland, heading north. We ended up in Grand Haven, at a huge celebration of the 100th anniversary of Grand Haven’s Coast Guard Festival. You see, the U.S. Coast Guard has a station in Grand Haven, and that town was the first in the country to be named a Coast Guard City.

It seemed we walked for blocks through the festival, with bands, a carnival, and lots of vendors along the pier. Our timing was just right, as it was almost time for the Musical Fountain show.

The Grand Haven Musical Fountain show isn’t only for the festival. It’s every evening in the summer, at 10 p.m. It seems kind of late, but with that area being on the western edge of the Eastern Time Zone, it stays light especially late during the summer. What fun that fountain show is. You watch the enormous fountain across the water from the pier. The fountain changes color and dances to music. The show lasts about a half hour.

We returned to Grand Haven that weekend to see several Coast Guard water vessels docked along the pier. We toured at least four different U.S. Coast Guard ships and other water craft, as well as one Canadian Coast Guard ship. They were all fascinating.

That’s as far up the Southwest Michigan coastline as we’re covering here. But, the coast continues up, with many more beach towns in Southwest Michigan and farther north, each with its own unique features.

Keep in mind that many attractions in these towns—and some restaurants—are seasonal. However, many embrace winter, as well, with plenty of winter outdoor experiences. Just plan ahead by visiting the Southwestern Michigan Tourist Council website.

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We’ve been to a lot of botanic gardens, in the Midwest and other parts of the U.S. So, when we say Botanica, the Wichita Gardens is at the top of our list of favorites, it means a lot. What makes it special? Read on (or watch the video) to find out.

Botanica, the Wichita Gardens, incorporates more art, architecture, and water among the plants and flowers than any other botanic gardens we’ve visited. It includes an awesome children’s garden, too, which we’ll talk about in a minute. But let’s start at the beginning.

Our first stop was the Chinese Garden of Friendship, a traditional Chinese Garden, from the architecture to the plants. Every element of the garden has some significant Chinese meaning. For instance, the dragon that runs atop the scallop-topped wall gives the effect of movement. The dragon holds a pearl in its mouth and is known as the Treasure Dragon, the protector and keeper of underground treasure.

The bright orange and yellow fish in the koi pond and stream add a pop of color to the garden—and entertained us, as well.

Our next stop was the Gene E. Spear Railroad Garden. Skip is a big rail fan, so I knew he’d enjoy it. The model train runs through a layout of miniature landscapes and towns and captured both our attentions for quite a while. The train operates from March through September and during the holiday Illuminations event, weather permitting.

Just a few feet from the garden train, a kaleidoscope caught my eye. It was attached to a plant-filled bowl. Spin the bowl while looking through the kaleidoscope for the effect of colorful dimensional images. Such fun!

As we began strolling among the flowers, we noticed a lot of butterflies, many more than we’d usually see around flowers. It turns out it was monarch migration season. More than monarchs flitted around, though, and we stood mesmerized, watching them.

A little later we went into the Butterfly House and watched more of the colorful, fluttering insects. But honestly, because of the migration season, I think there were actually more butterflies around the outdoor flowers.

As I mentioned, Botanica seems to have more fountains and sculptures than most botanic gardens, incorporated artistically among flowers and other plants. There is something about the sound and sight of water that relaxes me, especially moving water, whether the water sprays through a fountain or rushes down a stream.

Speaking of sculptures, a temporary dinosaur exhibit took place while we were there in 2023. Scattered throughout the gardens, the dinosaur sculptures jumped to life as we neared them. So fun! The exhibit was only for last summer. The 2024 summer exhibit is Sean Kenney’s Nature Pop! The exhibit features animal sculptures made with more than 800,000 LEGO® bricks.

My very favorite section of Botanica, the Wichita Gardens, was the Children’s Garden. I was selfishly glad we were there on a weekday when school was in session, so I could play. I had fun playing the musical instruments in the Music Maze.

My inner child really came out in the Monster Woods. What a cool place! I especially liked the monster trees, the tree house…and even the spider web (only because I knew it was fake—real spider webs creep my out).

We also enjoyed the troll asleep under the bridge. The toddlers playing on bridge didn’t seem to even care that the troll lay right beneath them. Brave kids.

When I saw the carousel, I was tempted to ride it. It’s rare that I don’t ride a carousel when I see one, but the day was getting warm and we had a full schedule for the afternoon.

As warm as the summer day was, as we were walking through the gardens on our way out, we noticed workers wrapping trees in Christmas lights. This was the end of August. It would be almost three months before Botanica’s holiday Illuminations event started. But with two million lights to put up, this is when they begin. Coming back for Illuminations would be a completely different fun experience, with a lot cooler weather.

Botanica, the Wichita Gardens, is located at 701 Amidon Street in Wichita, Kansas. Hours vary by day and season. Check the website for exact hours and admission fees.

Exploring the Kansas Gunsmoke Trail in Wichita
Time Travel at The Wichita-Sedgwick County Historical Museum
Wild West Wichita Comes Alive at Old Cowtown Museum
B-29 Doc Comes Home to Wichita

The Woman Behind Bellingrath Gardens
Weber House and Garden: Tour a Storybook House and English Garden
Avery Island: TABASCO® Factory Tour and Jungle Gardens
Exploring Friendship Botanic Gardens
A Stroll Through Anderson Japanese Gardens
Lauritzen Gardens: Blending Nature with Omaha’s Railroad Heritage
Explore Three Gardens near Champaign, Ill.
Fabyan Forest Preserve: Frank Lloyd Wright, Japanese Garden, Windmill
Palos Heights Public Art and Lake Katherine: A Day of Art and Nature
Shiojiri Niwa: The Story of Mishiawaka’s Japanese Garden
Exploring the World’s Only Quilt Gardens Tour

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Road trips are our thing. Add history and nature, toss in a little culture, and it’s a perfect combination. That’s what we found as we explored the historic mills of the Missouri Ozarks. The mills date back as far as the 1800s.

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When we stopped at the Ozark Heritage Welcome Center in West Plains, Missouri, we picked up a free travel guide titled “Explore West Plains.” In it, we found suggested road trips. The two that jumped out at us were Eastern Mills and Western Mills.

Spread over Oregon, Howell, and Ozark Counties, we knew it would take several hours to complete each trip, so we planned to explore them on two separate occasions.

Reading through the guide, we were surprised at the number of historic mills in southern Missouri. We’ve been traveling to the area for years and were aware of a few mills but didn’t realize there were so many.

As we explored, we found that some of the mills are basically ruins, not much left to them at all. Others have been nicely restored. None of the mills we visited mill grain anymore. They’re more for preserving area history.

We chose to explore the eastern mills of the Missouri Ozarks on our first visit, beginning with Boze Mill. We followed directions in the guide and found ourselves in the Mark Twain National Forest. A sign indicated we were at the Boze Mill Float Camp, so we knew we were in the right area. But there was no sign for the mill itself.

We followed a nearby footpath to a river and spring. We found the mill, at least what’s left of it: a turbine and the dam’s rock wall. Water does still rush from beneath the rock wall, which is kind of neat to see.

We did things out of order from what the guide lists (we suggest you follow the guide), so our next stop was Turner Mill. A sign indicated we were in the right place, but we didn’t see the mill right away. Again, it’s set back from the parking area, so it requires a walk, maybe a quarter mile or so. Although it’s less convenient for today’s tourists, the mills were placed where the water flow would be able to power the mill.

The mill was in the Missouri town of Surprise, which no longer exists. The guide indicates logs were floated down the Eleven Point River and teams of oxen hauled the logs out of the river. That tells us that the Turner Mill was a sawmill rather than a grain mill. Like Boze Mill, there isn’t much left of Turner Mill, but the water wheel still stands.

Moving on, we drove to Fall Spring Mill. We noticed a cabin near the parking area, so investigated that first. The area founders, Thomas and Jane Brown, built both the cabin and the mill. Eventually, other settlers added another few houses in the area. The original cabin is the only one remaining.

We walked the path a couple hundred or so feet from the cabin to the mill. The refurbished mill is built next to the side of a bluff. Water flows out of the bluff and drives the water wheel, hence the name Falling Spring.

Our last mill of the day was Greer Mill. The three-story refurbished building is impressive on first sight, but there wasn’t much for us to see besides the building. At one time, the mill ground corn, sawed lumber, and processed cotton and wool. We didn’t see any obvious paths that led directly from the mill to water, so we took a few photos and left.

Only a half mile from the Greer Mill is the Greer Spring Trail. As we started hiking the trail, which led downward, we came across another couple coming back up. They told us it was quite a distance down to get to the spring but well worth it.

So, down we went, a bit worried about the time because it was nearing dusk. (This was March, and the days were short.) That couple was right. Greer Spring Trail was the highlight of our day, with it’s beautiful blue rushing water.

A month later we visited the Ozarks again. The primary purpose of our trip was to view the solar eclipse in totality, but we also looked forward to exploring the western mills of the Missouri Ozarks.

We’ve been familiar with Dawt Mill for years because Skip’s aunt and uncle lived nearby. On some of our visits with them, we would take float trips that began upstream on the North Fork River and ended at Dawt.

The mill is privately owned, and we’ve watched as the business has changed and grown over the years.

The mill dates back to 1874 and has been rebuilt or refurbished multiple times, due to fire or flood. In one case, a competitor paid a kid ten dollars to burn it down. The problem for the kid was that he rode a three-legged mule, so it was easy to track down the arsonist.

As we pulled up on our current visit, a gentleman was standing outside. It turns out it was the owner, Ed Henegar. The business is seasonal and wouldn’t open until May. But Ed took us inside and gave us a great tour. He showed us how the mill used to operate and all he’s done to improve the place.

Today the mill building (the mill no longer works) includes a restaurant that overlooks the river. Also on the river is a casual bar, an inn, cabins, RV sites, and canoe or kayak rentals.

Hodgson Mill was the most picturesque mill we visited, with a rushing waterfall in front of the red building set into the woods. It makes for some great photo ops.

We discovered a cave opening, and Skip started to walk into it. But not having good lighting and not sure we were supposed to be in there at all, we backed out rather quickly.

Our last stop of the day was Rockbridge Mill. This was another mill that we had been to before and is privately owned. It operates as a rainbow trout ranch.

We had begun our day in late morning, and now it was about three o’clock. We were hungry. The trout ranch has a nice restaurant that we’ve eaten in before, so we stopped in for a meal. We both chose the special of the day, which was as good as it sounded: maple-glazed trout.

The 1800s grist mill is now home to the seasonal Rockbridge Grist Mill Club, which serves beverages and appetizers.

Fly fishing in the rapids near the dam is a popular activity at Rockbridge, as are other outdoor activities.

Once again, the day was getting away from us, so we saved the last stop, Blue Spring, for the next day.

The next morning, we found our way to the North Fork Recreation Area and to the parking area at the trailhead. Walking down to the water, we were astounded at how blue it was. We oohed and aahed, took some pictures, and then started hiking more of the trails. The views of the winding blue river from the bluffs above were gorgeous.

The trails are where Skip stepped right over a snake, too. As he walked ahead of me on a narrow ledge, just a foot or so above the water level, I watched him walk right over the snake, not having any idea it was there. And I followed him, hoping I didn’t get bit (I didn’t).

West Plains, Missouri, is located on U.S. 160 in southern Missouri, about midway between the state’s east and west borders.

Besides the mills included in the two suggested road trips we took, there are additional historic mills in the Missouri Ozarks. You can find more information about suggested Missouri Ozark day trips on the Explore West Plains website.

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Midwest Wanderer Podcast Episode 2 – July 9, 2024

Welcome to the Midwest Wanderer Podcast Episode 2. In this episode we chat about local events, particularly free local summer concerts found throughout the Midwest.

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One way to relax on summer evenings is to attend free local summer concerts. Local municipalities in many Midwest areas offer weekly or biweekly concerts. They usually rotate music genres, so there’s something throughout the season for everyone to enjoy.

On Sunday we drove a half hour north to Frankfort, Illinois for their weekly free concert. That particular series is called Concerts on the Green, sponsored by the Frankfort Chamber of Commerce. Because it was still the 4th of July weekend, the Frankfort Brass Band put on a special performance of patriotic music.

Occasionally a venue might have a few picnic tables or other seating, as was the case at Frankfort’s Breidert Green. But, there will be far more people there than seating, so you should bring your own folding chair. Simple bag chairs are inexpensive, fairly lightweight, easy to carry, and don’t take up a lot of trunk room. In fact, we keep our bag chairs in our trunk from spring through fall.

Food options vary in different locations. In Frankfort, it’s bring-your-own. Or, instead of sitting in the park, dine at one of the restaurants across the street. We noticed the street between the park and restaurants were closed to traffic, and there were plenty of tables for al fresco dining.

Other venues bring in food trucks during the concerts. That was the case a few years ago when we went to a concert in Saint Cloud, Minnesota. Saint Cloud hosts several free local summer concert series, held on different evenings of the week. The one we attended was Summer by George, held at the Lake George Complex. Several food options were on hand for that one.

Besides attending free concerts locally, it’s a good idea for areas you travel to, as well. How often do you go out of town, you’re busy during the day but can’t think of evening activities?

Below are a few Midwest cities with free local summer concerts in 2024. But wherever you live or travel to, check the websites of the local town, the area chamber of commerce, and the area visitor bureau. Chances are, you’ll find plenty to do, including free local summer concerts. (Be sure to verify dates, times, and policy for inclement weather.)

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Midwest Wanderer Podcast Episode 1 – July 3, 2024

Welcome to the Midwest Wanderer Podcast Episode 1. In the inaugural episode of our weekly podcast, we start with a talk about weather preparedness. Then, we chat about our recent visits to Chicago Southland’s Nathan Manilow Sculpture Park and Hannibal, Missouri.

Welcome to Episode 1 of the all-new Midwest Wanderer Podcast, where we give you an idea of what’s going on in the Midwest, tell you about places we’ve been and think you might enjoy, and what’s coming up in the next week or so in the Midwest. So, the first thing I want to talk about today is weather. That’s been big in the news in the Midwest. I know a lot of our friends in Iowa, South Dakota, Kansas areas have had a tremendous amount of rain and floods and heat, all together.

We have, on the ride sidebar of the Midwest Wanderer website, information on weather safety, provided by the National Weather Service. We participate in a program called Weather Ready Nation. If you click on that link, it’ll take you to the National Weather Service website. They give a lot of information regarding weather safety.

We also include, on our website, Summer Weather Safety. It’s a multi-page brochure that changes seasonally. This summer one talks about tornadoes, lightning, wind, and especially the flooding that has been going on. So, it’ll tell you good points to take into consideration when you’re traveling. We greatly encourage you to take a look at that and read some of that information. It could be very beneficial to you.

Last, but not least, check the forecast for your location. That link is on our website. It takes you to the National Weather Service site. Plug in the ZIP code where you are, or where you’re going to be, and you’ll get the weather forecast for that area.

We’ve been actually fortunate in our area. We’ve had hot weather, but we haven’t had the torrential rains. We did get a reprieve last week from the hot weather. We had one beautiful day. It was way too nice to stay inside. So, we went up to the Chicago Southland area, only about a half hour from where we live, to the Nathan Manilow Sculpture Park in University Park. It’s on the campus of Governors State University.

We had been there years ago. In fact, we used to live in University Park. We owned our first home there. Back then it was called Park Forest South.

But, we went up there to check it out again. When we visited years ago, there were a handful of sculptures on an open field. Wow, has that ever changed! The number of sculptures is quite impressive—30 sculptures! It’s spread out over 100 acres of prairieland, which means there’s a lot of walking. But, it’s really neat.

Mowed trails lead from one sculpture to the next. It’s very nicely maintained around each of the sculptures, as well as the wide, grass footpath.

We would consider most of the sculptures contemporary. There is one exception. It’s called “Paul,” and is obviously Paul Bunyan, with his plaid, flannel shirt and his cap and his axe. Only, he’s kind of hunched over, kind of like a very tired Paul Bunyan.

We spent at least two hours in the sculpture park, and we didn’t see all the sculptures. Here are a couple of our favorites:

Since we visited, we’ve discovered that the Nathan Manilow Sculpture Park was voted in the top ten sculpture parks in the United States by readers of USA Today.

If you’re in downtown Chicago, you can take the Metra Electric commuter train south from Millennium Station (located at Michigan Avenue and Randolph Street) to the end at University Park. From there, take the Pace Bus to Governors State University.

You can get more information on the Nathan Manilow Sculpture Park on the Visit Chicago Southland website.

This past weekend, we took a little road trip out to Hannibal, Missouri, home of Mark Twain, of course. We did all kinds of Mark Twain-related things.

We had our granddaughter with us, and she loves road trips, so we tried to base what we did on what she would enjoy, and the weather. Once again, we anticipated hot, humid weather and storms. Storms were in the forecast, so we thought we’d do whatever indoor stuff we can find if it’s raining. Well, we had a little bit of rain one day. It was humid on Saturday, and warm. But other than that, it was gorgeous.

Friday, the weather was in the mid- to upper-70s and again on Sunday. And, low humidity, along the Mississippi, very unusual in the summertime.

The biggest thing we did there was the Mark Twain Cave Complex, where there are several activities, including two caves.

On this trip we toured the Mark Twain Cave. We had done that one before, with Carmela, but she didn’t seem to remember it.

That is the cave that Mark Twain played in as a kid. It’s the one that he refers to in Tom Sawyer, the cave where he and Becky get lost.

So, they have a lot of references to Tom Sawyer and Tom Sawyer characters along the tour. In one case, the guide shows you where Tom and Huck saw the cross on the cave ceiling and found the treasure in a pit down below it.

Besides the Mark Twain references, the cave was also a hideout for Jesse James.

An interesting side note about that cave is that it was discovered in 1819 and opened for cave tours not too many years after that.

Another cave on that same property is Cameron Cave. We didn’t tour that one this time, but Skip and I were there last year. It was a week day towards the end of August, and we were the only ones on that tour. So, we had what essentially was a personal tour for that.

In Cameron Cave there is no electrical. You’re given a small flashlight, and you make your way through the cave with the flashlight. The tour guides are awesome. The one we had on that Cameron Cave tour gave us a lot of insight into the cave.

Also on the property is the Cave Hollow Winery. We didn’t go in this time, but we did last summer. They had some delicious wine slushes/coolers, so we had enjoyed one of those.

You can also catch the trolley for the Historic Hannibal City Tour at the Mark Twain Cave complex. We like to do that type of tour, if possible, when we first arrive in a town. It helps us to get the lay of the land, find out where things are. We may not know about an attraction or historical significance of a place, and the guide will point that out.

Also in the Mark Twain Cave Complex is the Mark Twain Live performance. It’s a one-man presentation put on by a Mark Twain impersonator. He relates, in first person, some of Mark Twain’s experiences. Skip and I enjoyed the performance but don’t recommend it for kids. Most kids wouldn’t understand some of the historical references and innuendos.

We didn’t go through the museum on this trip, but we did get some snapshots of Mark Twain’s boyhood home. Right across the street is where Laura Hawkins lived. Laura Hawkins was who Becky Thatcher was modeled after in the Tom Sawyer story. Mark Twain’s boyhood friend Tom Blankenship became Huck Finn. He lived in the house behind the Twain family.

We’re anxious to go back and see that museum. We just didn’t have time to do that on this trip.

On Lovers Leap, we enjoyed the beautiful views of the city and the Mississippi River.

Why is it called Lovers Leap? It seemed on every tour we went on during our stay, we heard a different version of the legend. What it amounts to is, there was an Indian maiden from the Fox tribe on the Missouri side of the Mississippi River. A young Illini brave lived on the Illinois side of the river. The two tribes were enemies. The Indian maiden and brave somehow found each other and became lovers. They would often sneak out and meet in secret. Eventually, when their relationship was found out by others, they realized they couldn’t be together in life but they could in death. So, they embraced and jumped from a rocky overhang, now known as Lovers Leap.

As we were driving around, with a little extra time before a scheduled event, we discovered Sodalis Nature Preserve. So, we stopped and walked the trail for a little while. The trail is a wide, asphalt path.

I have the free Merlin app on my phone, which records bird sounds and identifies them. In ten minutes of recording, the app identified seven different bird species that we heard as we were walking the trail.

The lighthouse, perched atop Cardiff Hill, was built as a memorial to Mark Twain. It is only a memorial, not a working lighthouse used as a navigation aid.

The story behind it is the property at one time was the home of a steamboat captain and his wife. While the captain was out on the river, his wife would watch for him when he was due back. Eventually, after one trip, he didn’t return. He had been killed in an accident.

The widow of the captain became the Widow Douglas in Tom Sawyer.

There are a few ways to reach the lighthouse. We took the long way, climbing up 244 steps. There is a road where you can drive part way up and park, so you don’t have to walk up so many steps. For the disabled, another road goes all the way up to the lighthouse level, with two handicap parking stops near the lighthouse.

The steps to the lighthouse are at the end of Main Street, near a sculpture of Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer.

Main Street is the main downtown street in Hannibal. It’s filled with shops and restaurants and is near the Mark Twain home. You’ll enjoy the murals on the sides of many of the buildings.

On the narrated riverboat tour, we learned more information about Hannibal and the river, information we didn’t get on our other tours.

Of all the rain predicted while we were there, it only drizzled a little toward the end of the riverboat ride. As we got off, the skies opened up. The rain stopped by the time we got back to our hotel.

With two half days and one full day in Hannibal, we were busy the entire time. There is still plenty of attractions we didn’t get a chance to see. Which means we need to go back.

To learn more about the area, go to VisitHannibal.com.

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We planned a quick outing to visit sculpture parks in three Chicago suburbs. Instead, we spent the entire day exploring public art and Lake Katherine in Palos Heights, Illinois.

Before we left home, I printed the Public Arts Guide, created by the Palos Heights Public Arts Commission. The guide includes a map of twenty-two art installations throughout the city. We knew then that we’d spend a little more time in the city, perhaps all morning, we thought. It would be kind of a scavenger hunt.

We started at the Art Garden, located behind the fire station. There we found a half dozen or so sculptures. They ranged from a big Wire Hand to a bronze sculpture of Butterfly Girl.

Nearby we found more art, including a flame sculpture in front of the firehouse.

A half block away, on a building adjacent to the municipal parking lot, we found an awesome mural called “The Treasures of Palos Heights.” The artist was Anne Farley Gaines, but the project was a cooperative among several community organizations, including the Palos Heights schools.

We found this art installation intriguing. From a distance, it looks like a mural painted on the wall. When you get up close, though, you can see that it’s part mosaic and has great dimensional detail.

We hunted down several more sculptures around town, including…

…the trio of totems at the Metra train station…

…a jack at Community Park…

…and my favorite, Paige Turner, a young lady sitting on a bench reading a book outside the Palos Heights Public Library.

I read recently about Lake Katherine, a small body of water near the Cal-Sag Canal. Before that I had never heard of it. Neither did Skip. And we both grew up in towns nearby. It turns out Lake Katherine was developed in 2005 as a nature center and botanic garden. It’s a real hidden gem! I know that sounds cliché, but it truly is a gem and it really is hidden. From the street, you see only condos, houses, and businesses…and a small drive with the Lake Katherine sign.

A walking path around the lake, with plenty of seating here and there, is a great way to explore nature. As we walked, we saw blue heron, goldfinches, even families of ducks and swans.

The beautiful waterfalls really caught our attention. What is it about the sound and sight of a rushing waterfall that is so refreshing?

A restored prairie area reminds us of what millions of Midwest acres looked like before western settlers arrived. The flower garden in full bloom was gorgeous, and we couldn’t help rubbing the leaves to check the scents of the herbs in the herb garden.

One special garden is the Fairy Garden in the Children’s Forest. The entrance, through an archway that was once part of a Palos Heights school, leads to the trail through the forest. Along the trail, a story about fairies enfolds page by page. Finally, you come to a couple of adorable fairy homes. Nearby, stools shaped like toadstools and a giant wishbone beckon you to sit and rest awhile.

Another thing kids would enjoy is the indoor nature center. Here, aquariums hold snakes, turtles, and a few fish. And there is plenty of room inside for the nature classes held for kids.

We did see some of the sculptures we were searching for at Lake Katherine, but mostly we were distracted by nature. We look at it, though, as nature is God’s art, and what can be more beautiful than that?

Even though we spent several hours exploring public art and Lake Katherine in Palos Heights, we only made it to about half the art locations.

The good news is, it’s a short driving distance between each of the various art installations, so you aren’t spending more time driving than visiting. Using the map on the guide from the Public Arts Commission, you can plan ahead a route that makes the most sense. Palos Heights is in Chicago Southland, less than an hour southwest of downtown Chicago. Visit the Lake Katherine website for visitor information.

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A while back, the folks at Visit Kenosha asked if Skip and I would like to go on a Kenosha Charter Boat Association fishing excursion on Lake Michigan. My answer was, it sounds like fun but I haven’t fished since I was in high school. Even then, someone else baited the hook.  They assured me I needed no experience at all. So, yeah, sign me up!

Watch the video or our adventure or read the transcript.

Disclosure: Our trip was sponsored by Visit Kenosha and the Kenosha Charter Boat Association. However, all opinions are our own.

The morning of our excursion we met at the boat harbor on Simmons island at 5:30 a.m. Three boats were part of our excursion that day. Skip and I shared a boat with another travel writer and her husband and a couple of other folks.

With everyone and all the equipment aboard, Captain Russ piloted the boat out of the harbor. Once we were out of the harbor and into open water, he and picked up speed. I love that feel of a speedboat zipping through the water. The sun mixed with a cool breeze felt on my face on this June morning.

After we reached the point where we’d be fishing from (I have no idea how that’s determined), Captain Russ started setting up several fishing rods, placing them into holders on the sides of the boat. Then, it was just a matter of waiting for the bobbers to indicate we had a bite. The only thing we had to do, besides enjoy the snacks and beverages brought aboard, was to reel in the fish when there was a bite.

The fish started biting before long. I was about third in line to reel a fish in. I could tell from the tension on the line the fish was surprisingly strong. So, I reeled and reeled and reeled. Finally, I could see the fish just below the water. Russ swooped in with a net when the fish came out of the water and took care of the rest. I had caught a coho salmon.

Once all of the boats in our group were in, we headed to the Boat House Pub & Eatery. The restaurant’s chefs prepared the fish that we caught, and we enjoyed a feast. Couldn’t get any fresher than that.

Would I go on another Lake Michigan fishing excursion? Absolutely.

To find out about booking a Lake Michigan fishing excursion, contact the Kenosha Charter Boat Association. Check their website for details.

NOTE: If you suffer from seasickness, be sure to take the appropriate meds before the excursion. I felt the effects of the constant lull once we anchored at our fishing spot.

For more Kenosha adventure ideas, visit the Visit Kenosha website.

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Abilene, Kansas, was the first of the cow towns in the Wild West. Today, Old Abilene Town recreates those days with buildings that simulate the 1870s Abilene and museums that tell the history of the Chisholm trail, cattle drives, and Abilene life in the days of Wild Bill Hickok.

Disclosure: Thank you to Visit Abilene Kansas for hosting this year’s Kansas Tourism media event, where we were treated to the welcome event at Old Abilene Town.

Buildings along Old Abilene Town’s boardwalk include the Alamo Saloon and a general store, among other businesses that existed at that time.

Also on the grounds are one of the first cabins built in Dickinson County, the second church (which doubled as the first schoolhouse), and the carriage house that belonged to T. C. Henry. T. C. Henry is the person who brought the wheat crop to Kansas.

One of the buildings houses a 1:24 scale model of the Old West town. Another building features an extensive exhibit on the Chisholm Trail history. Old Abilene Town is open on weekends, when you may witness gunfights in the streets and tour the buildings.

• Old Abilene Town
• 1:24 scale model of 1871 Abilene
• Original Dickinson County homestead cabin
• The second church in Dickinson County doubled as the first schoolhouse.
• Inside the church/schoolhouse
• Carriage house that belonged to T. C. Henry, who brought the wheat crop to Abilene

Adjacent to Old Abilene Town is the Abilene & Smoky Valley Railroad, which runs weekend excursions. It’s a great addition to your Old Abilene Town visit.

Events are often held on the grounds, as well. In fact, we visited during a media event, which included stagecoach rides, can-can dancers in the saloon, recreation of a cattle drive, and a performance by a cowboy poet. Here is a slideshow of photos from the media event:

• Stagecoach Rides
• Cattle Drive
• Loading cattle onto the train
• Abilene & Smoky Valley Railroad steam locomotive

It began in the mid-1860s with a gentleman named Joseph McCoy, an Illinoisan in the agriculture business. McCoy had heard about cattle roaming in Texas that were selling for about four dollars a head. He knew he could get a lot more money for the cattle in cities like Chicago and St. Louis, but he needed to find a way to bring them to market.

Back then, there were no railroads in Texas. The closest railroads were in Kansas. So, McCoy looked for a town where he might be able to set up his business, an area where they would be able to bring the cattle up on cattle drives.

The problem was, there was a ban on cattle drives in several states due to a problem that began in the 1850s. They were doing some cattle drives to other area at the time, taking cattle to steamships on the Gulf Coast, or in some cases, all the way up to Illinois. But the cattle on the ranches that the longhorns were going through were dropping dead of what they named Texas Fever. Years later they discovered that Texas Fever was a tic-borne illness that longhorns were immune to but was deadly to other cattle. So, longhorns not being allowed in several states was an obstacle for McCoy.

McCoy convinced the Kansas governor to open a trail in that quarantine area where he’d be able to bring the cattle up. He also worked with the railroad heads, who thought it was a crazy idea, but agreed to transport the cattle if McCoy could get them up to Kansas.

Then McCoy looked for a town where he could put his stockyards. After several towns turned him down, he went to Abilene. At the time, Abilene was very small, just a few cabins and a saloon. It also had a railroad stop that wasn’t used for passengers. Perfect for building stockyards and a hotel.

He also hired one of Abilene’s founders, Timothy Hersey, to survey and mark the trail that would connect the trail previously utilized by trader Jesse Chisholm. Chisholm had used the trail when traveling between his trading post in Kansas and his post near the Red River on the present-day Texas-Oklahoma border.

In addition, McCoy sent men to Texas to convince the cattle owners that there was money to be made driving their cattle to market in Abilene.

The stage was set for cowboys to bring the cattle north to Abilene.

The cowboys who brought the cattle up the trail made up a very diverse group. Former Confederate soldiers worked together with freed slaves and Mexicans. Many of the cowboys were as young as fifteen years old, because it was a tough job that most men didn’t want to do. Those who did looked forward to what lay ahead of them at the end of the trail. They’d get paid and then hit the saloons, brothels, and poker games. They were out to have a good time.

The town got really rough with all of that going on. Gunfights were common. Several lawmen resigned because they couldn’t handle it.

The first really tough lawman that came to Abilene was Tom “Bear River” Smith, a former boxer. He was also a former lawman who worked in several places, including New York. While he was in New York, he accidentally killed a kid. He felt horrible about it, and as a result, hated using guns. So, he basically used his firsts rather than his gun. Being a former boxer, he was faster with his fists than a lot of the men were with their guns.

One story is told in which a guy pulled a gun on Smith. Smith pulled his gun out and hit the guy on the head with his gun faster than the guy could shoot.

Eventually Smith was ambushed and killed.

Wild Bill Hickok took over as marshal. By that time Hickok already had quite a reputation as being tough and fast with the gun. His unofficial office became the Alamo Saloon. He didn’t do a lot because he knew that everybody was afraid of him and wouldn’t bother him. However, he did have several run-ins with two men: Ben Thompson and Phil Coe. Thompson and Coe owned the Bull’s Head Saloon and were both former Confederate soldiers. Thompson generally kept quiet, but Coe kept provoking Hickok, kept accusing Hickok of bullying Texans and former Confederates.

Abilene townspeople started complaining to Hickok that Coe and Thompson had painted a large, anatomically correct bull on the side of their saloon as an advertisement. They did not like that, thought it was almost pornographic.

Hickok tried to convince Coe and Thompson to remove it, but they wouldn’t. So, during the night, Hickok painted over it. Coe was not happy with that, and he wanted revenge. One night, Coe got a group of cowboys drunk, wanting to incite a riot. They were all outside of the Bull’s Head, and Coe fired two shots, knowing that Hickok would show up.

Sure enough, Hickok came running around the corner to see what was going on. Coe said he had been shooting at a stray dog. Hickok knew better than that and told Coe to drop his gun. Coe pretended to start dropping his gun, then quickly fired two shots toward Hickok. One bullet when through Hickok’s coat. The other missed completely. Hickok shot back and killed Coe.

Just then, as all the drunk cowboys were standing around, Hickok saw somebody come up in the shadows of the dark with a gun. Wild Bill thought it was one of Coe’s friends who was going to kill him. Hickok turned and fatally shot the man.

It turned out that the man he killed was Hickok’s young deputy, Mike Williams. He felt awful about it. Not long after that incident, Hickok was dismissed as Abilene’s marshal, and he never went into law enforcement again. Instead, he joined Buffalo Bill Cody in his productions but left Cody’s organization prior to Cody forming his traveling show.

Things had really gotten out of hand in Abilene, and the residents were not happy. They wanted this part of town gone. Not only were they upset about what was going on because of the evil nature, but also, they knew that the town wouldn’t grow. After all, who would want to move to a town with such a reputation?

They ended up voting out the town officials, voted other people in, and cleaned up the town. The end of the cattle drive trail was no longer wanted in Abilene, so the trail end moved west to Ellsworth.

It had been five years since the cattle drives began, with the last one in 1871. There were still about 200,000 cattle in the pens, though, and it took another couple of years for them all to be shipped out by railroad.

Old Abilene Town is located near the Eisenhower Museum and Library, as well as other Abilene attractions and is open on Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Visit the website for gunfight show times and other details.

The Abilene & Smoky Valley Railroad runs excursion trains on weekends, as well as occasional dinner trains and other special events. Check the ASVRR website for schedules and other details.

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Abraham Lincoln slept here. At least, we assume he did, since he visited often. Today, the 86-acre Lincoln Log Cabin State Historic Site, the last farm Lincoln’s father owned, serves as a living history museum in Central Illinois.

After Thomas Lincoln and Abraham’s step-mother, Sarah, suffered through three winters of deep snow in Danville, Illinois, they decided to move back to Indiana. On the way, they stopped to visit Sarah’s niece, Hannah, in Coles County. Hannah talked them into settling there instead of moving to Indiana. The Lincolns lived on three farms in the area before Thomas bought the farm that today is the historic site.

Begin with the orientation film in the visitor center. Then, follow the history timeline to get an understanding of the Lincolns’ life in the area. Thomas Lincoln farmed using the “old school” method. He farmed just to fulfill his family’s needs. The museum contrasts Lincoln’s farming method with the progressive methods his neighbor, Stephen Sargent, used. Sargent farmed with the intention of making a profit.

Outside, stroll through the Lincoln farmstead. The original cabin had been dismantled and sold to Chicagoans for display at the 1893 World’s Fair. However, the house never did make the fair, and its whereabouts were lost. So, when the state purchased the Lincoln farm in 1929, the log cabin no longer existed, However, archaeologists found the fireplace foundation, as well as other traces of the building. Those elements, together with photographs, the Civilian Conservation Corps reconstructed the cabin on the original site.

To compare the lives of the two neighboring families, the Lincolns and the Sargents, the state moved the Sargent family farmstead buildings to the Lincoln Log Cabin Historic Site.

Visit in season, especially on weekends, to experience living history. Volunteer interpreters take on the roles of folks living in 1845 and stay in first-person roles. They “won’t know” what an automobile is, much less a cell phone. We visited at the beginning of May, during the week. Volunteers were readying the grounds for the season, but the living history role playing hadn’t yet begun.

The Lincoln Log Cabin is located at 402 South Lincoln Highway Road in Lerna, Illinois, about eight miles south of Charleston. Check the website for hours and other details.

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