Vasily Pivtsov is a Kazakh professional climber, master of sports of international class, honored master of sports in mountaineering, multiple champion and prize-winner of the CIS open championship in mountaineering in high-altitude technical (2000), technical (2001) and high-altitude classes (2000-2002).
Vasily is a conqueror of all 14 eight-thousanders of the planet (2001-2011). He became the 26th member of Quest-14 and the 11th climber who was able to climb all these peaks without using artificial oxygen. Chevalier of the Kurmet Order of Honor (2007).
Climbing the famous six-seven-thousanders
1996, August 24 - Khan Tengri (7010 m) along the classic route 5B, Tien Shan.
1997, July 19 - Khan-Tengri along the classic route 5B, Tien Shan.
1999, July 29 - Khan Tengri along the classic route from the south 5A, Tien Shan.
1999, August 24 - Pobeda Peak (7438 m) along the classic route 6A, Tien Shan.
2000, August 9 - Khan Tengri in the top five of Denis Urubko in the center of the northern wall 6B, Tien Shan [6].
2000, August 22 - Khan-Tengri, with Vladimir Suvig and Maksut Zhumayev as judges of the peak race within the framework of the Khan-Tengri-2000 Festival (spent 7 hours at the summit).
2002 - Lenin Peak (7142 m) in the Pamirs in conjunction with M. Zhumaev.
2004 - Pobeda Peak (7438 m) along the classic route 6A, Tien Shan.
2008, June 5 - McKinley (6168 m) in Alaska with E. Ilyinsky and V. Ivanov.
2008 - Khan-Tengri along the classic route 5A from the south, Tien Shan.
2012, August 20 - Khan-Tengri, climbing the center of the northern wall with A. Sofrygin and I. Gabbasov, 6B.
2013, May - Elbrus (5642 m), with Maksut Zhumaev.
To obtain the title "Snow Leopard", it remains to conquer the peak of Communism (7495 m) and the peak of Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) in the Pamirs
As part of the 7 Summits Club project, he climbed three peaks: Everest (8848 m, Asia), McKinley (6168 m, North America) and Elbrus (5642 m, Europe).
Chronology of ascents of eight-thousanders
Oxygen-free ascents under the program "Kazakhstan's national team on all eight-thousanders of the world", all in conjunction with Maksut Zhumayev and the head of expeditions Yervand Ilyinsky:
2001, August 13 - Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (8068 m) along the classic route through the Japanese couloir.
2001, August 20 - Gasherbrum II (8035 m) classical from the south-west.
2002, May 13 - Kanchenjunga Main (8586 m) in classical style from the southwestern ridge.
2002, October 25 - traverse Shishapangma Central (8008 m) - Shishapangma Main (8027 m), classic from the north, from the Chinese side.
2003, June 17 - Nanga Parbat (8126 m), along the Diamir wall (Kinshofer route).
2003, July 16 - Broad Peak (8048 m), along the western ridge.
2004, May 22 - Makalu (8485 m), along the Western ridge (Parago route).
2005, May 3 - Cho-Oyu (8201 m), along the north-western ridge, two Zhumaev - Pivtsov as part of an international expedition.
2006, May 2 - Dhaulagiri (8167 m), classic along the northeastern ridge, two Zhumaev - Pivtsov in the Alpine style.
2006, May 19 - Annapurna Main (8091 m), classic from the north along the French route, two Zhumaev - Pivtsov in the Alpine style.
2007, April 30 - Everest (8848 m), classic through the North Col, two Zhumaev - Pivtsov in cooperation with the Moscow "7 Summits Club - Alpindustria".
2008, October 2 - Manaslu (8163 m) along the classic route, paired with the Bulgarian Peter Unzhiev.
2009, May - an unsuccessful attempt on Lhotse Main in the project "Traverse Lhotse - Everest", Sergey Samoilov died.
2010, May 16 - Lhotse Home, the final ascent of the national team of Kazakhstan in the program "All 14 eight-thousanders of the world" consisting of Pivtsov, Zhumaev and Vladislav Chekhlov.
2011, August 23 - K2 (Chogori, 8611 m) along the Japanese route from the north together with Maksut Zhumaev, Gerlinda Kaltenbrunner (Austria), Pole Dariusz Załuski.
In total, he made 15 oxygen-free ascents of eight-thousanders, including two peaks Shishapangma (Central and Main).