A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

10 - The Rollercoaster


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I sat down immediately after a session in South Africa to write this letter home. With hair still wet and sand on my feet I felt compelled to get it out of my head and on to "paper" before I lost the feeling.


To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-rollercoaster/

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A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for WavesBy Dave