The lingering question of who God is plagued me for years... until I drew a line in the sand and decided enough is enough.

Why do I always seem to blow the takeoff when everyone is watching? Find out why... and how I fixed it in this week's note.

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/my-set-wave-mantra/

What happens when the surf bug bites twice? A few seconds in the green room and a chance conversation with a lifer flipped my view of surfing on its head. Tune in to see how the trajectory of a surfer's life can pivot on a dime.

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/falling-in-love-again-and-changing-my-mind/

Is this a battle all surfers fight? Here's my experience with the internal tug of war.

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/head-vs-heart/

Since I started keeping a log of all my sessions, I've realized it's not just the wave quality or quantity that gets me stoked. How does vibe factor in? And what's the appeal in longboarding?

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-vibe/

A strange character has me questioning whether the rising popularity of surfing is driving surfers crazy. Tune in this week for an extension of last week's coverage of So Cal surf adventures... and realities...

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/beat-it-predator/

How can a challenge involving an alcoholic energy drink and bad waves lead to getting stoked? Find out what happens when "the boyz" get together for a session, in this week's note.

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/going-loko/

Having surfed at some of the best waves around the world I thought I had seen it all... but nothing has compared to the relentless hustle of this surf village in Indonesia. Tune in to this week's note to see how a micro-economy can form in even the most remote surf destinations.

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-nias-hustle/

I had chased the unicorn for what felt like forever, until one day, it all lined up. This week's note was written in the magical land of unicorns and offshore winds - Nicaragua.

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/my-first-real-barrel/

I sat down immediately after a session in South Africa to write this letter home. With hair still wet and sand on my feet I felt compelled to get it out of my head and on to "paper" before I lost the feeling.

To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/the-rollercoaster/