A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

28 - Tipping Point


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Once I knew what to look for I started recognizing tipping points everywhere. I found the first one on the mountainside in rural Japan but realized I'd experienced one just a few days earlier in the water, during the height of the typhoon swell. Both were tests I'd have to face on my own.

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A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for WavesBy Dave