A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

11 - My First Real Barrel


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I had chased the unicorn for what felt like forever, until one day, it all lined up. This week's note was written in the magical land of unicorns and offshore winds - Nicaragua.


To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/my-first-real-barrel/

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A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for WavesBy Dave