A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

17 - Falling in Love Again (And Changing My Mind)


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What happens when the surf bug bites twice? A few seconds in the green room and a chance conversation with a lifer flipped my view of surfing on its head. Tune in to see how the trajectory of a surfer's life can pivot on a dime.


To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/falling-in-love-again-and-changing-my-mind/

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A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for WavesBy Dave