A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for Waves

6 - Bookends


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Two days ago an old dude, at least 60 years old, paddled out at dusk. It was already too dark to see sets on the horizon.

Why did he do it?

We'll never know, but this short note might help us make sense of it all.


To see pictures or the read the original blog post visit:

https://surfersnotebook.com/uncategorized/bookends/

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A Surfer's Notebook: A Life Optimized for WavesBy Dave