Modus Cafe: Conversations Beyond Climbing

66. How Hard Should Hangbaording Feel?


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Let's talk Hangboarding! This is Part 3 in the Auto-Regulation and RPE conversation. (Check out Parts 1 and 2 to get more familiar with RPE, auto-regulation, and reps in reserve.) Hangboarding is one of the best ways to build finger strength. Mercedes is here to share strategies to help you understand what failure means in hangboarding, and what RPE you should be going for to get your fingers stronger.

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00:02.38 Using RPE scale when it comes to hangboarding
00:06:39 How does finger strength training work when using a hangboard
00:08:25 Goals for beginners
00:10:07 Using Reps in Reserve / Seconds in Reserve
00:12:42 How RPE relates to hangboarding
00:14:16 What is failure when it comes to hangboarding
00:17:44 RPE for the hangboard
00:20:48 How to manage RPE in the week (focusing on fingers)
00:23:47 How to adjust your hangboard based on RPE

...more
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Modus Cafe: Conversations Beyond ClimbingBy Mercedes Pollmeier & Katja Dove

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