Modus Cafe: Conversations Beyond Climbing

Today we're answering our listener's questions! Also, it's OPEN ENROLLMENT for our Climbing Training Membership! The Modus motto "Strong, Healthy Humans Make Strong, Healthy Climbers" is clear in today's episode where you'll learn just why we care for and coach the whole person - not just the climber. Also, get a peek of the basic framework of our membership and hear some Listener Q&A's about balancing priorities, making friends at the wall, getting enough protein, and more!

OPEN ENROLLMENT! Sign up for our training membership TODAY: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Link to the inspiring interview with member Alissa: https://youtu.be/s0tPMR2_6uo?si=pPanyY32qoKh6GHm

Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:00:40 Membership is open! Why we care about our membership, and why it's for everyone.

00:09:35 Basic framework of the Modus training plan

00:12:22 Shout out to our Nutrition Coach Amanda Fitt. Members can access to nutrition calls and course.

00:13:00 Our member community holds the standard for supportive communication.

00:14:15 A Modus core belief

00:16:04 A membership bonus: meetups

00:17:15 First Q&A: Climbing and being a mom

00:21:53 Q: Making friends

00:28:39 Q: How to eat enough protein when you're not a meat eater.

00:37:32 Q: Flow state

00:42:47 Q: How to increase boulder session in a day

00:47:39 Q: How to improve overall foundations

We're at the end of the training series with Steve Bechtel. Today we put our training knowledge together and talk about how to create your own training program. Whether you're a boulderer, sport climber, or non-competitive climber, this episode is for you. Previously we've talked about energy systems, mental tactics, performance, and today we're cramming in a lot more info on how to put together a climbing training program! If you need a reminder on power endurance, essentials of strength climbing, recovery, and much more - go back and have a listen to the other episodes in this training series with Steve!  

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together  

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:01:11 How to frame "training"

00:07:04 How to decide what to focus on when creating an off-season plan

00:12:47 Skill goals vs grade goals

00:15:21 How to balance working on weakness & strengths

00:19:27 Less measurable qualities, less obvious progression

00:24:48 When and if to work on finger strength 00:29:00

How to put a training program together

00:38:36 Minimum guideline: how little you can train

00:44:01 Pre-season focus

00:46:39 Performance phase balance

00:50:16 Should we schedule de-loads

01:02:29 Recommendations for sport climbers without rope access

01:07:18 How to train endurance to come back during outdoor season

01:15:45 Making room for board climbing training

What do good training plans and good smoothies have in common? Katja is on fire with this analogy! First we ask: what is training? What do you think of when it comes to being trained? Learn what we at Modus believe about training & perhaps shift the view in your climbing training program! We give you the components for good training and good smoothies as we discuss ingredients, dosage, combination and balance, and enjoyment! Stay until the end for details on a free event happening soon!  

 Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:00:41 Define training

00:05:01 Good training plans and good smoothies

00:07:38 Component 1: Ingredients for good training. General strength, specific strength, technique & skill drills, and flexibility

00:12:10 Mercedes' tip for vegetables and strength training

00:13:28 Skipping to Component 3: Combination & balance.

00:15:28 Component 4: Enjoyment, add the honey.

00:17:36 Make a beautiful blend in your training program: train your weaknesses, different combinations, training plans are individualized just like smoothies.

00:20:29 Component 2: Dosage of ingredients to support your health.

00:24:00 YOU'RE INVITED! Free 2 day event where questions are answered by the Modus team

Click the link to join the upcoming free event! https://www.modusathletica.com/train-smart-climb-harder

In today's episode we're going to talk about what you can expect from climbing coaching, specifically with us at Modus! Curious about one-on-one coaching or group coaching? Find out about the advantages of working with Modus, and which climbing training you'd best fit in! Plus learn about the benefits of one-on-one and group coaching. We share our experiences being coached, expectations of coaching, and the Modus philosophy. 

Share your experience with Modus in the comments!  

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together  

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass  

00:00:45 Katja's personal experiences being coached by Mercedes

00:09:25 Mercedes' experiences being coached

00:16:46 Unrealistic expectations of coaching

00:17:58 Modus philosophy vs quick programs; How we coach at Modus

00:29:29 Advantages of Modus one-on-one coaching

00:34:42 Advantages of Modus group coaching via the training membership Stronger Together

00:37:01 Beneficial differences between one-on-one and group coaching

00:41:44 Choosing a coach

Are you a beginner to board climbing? This Part 2 episode is for you! We're going over the top tips to get you started on a training board. Katja and I both use training boards in our own training and in coaching. Today's episode is jam packed with tips on how to get started, and let's not forget etiquette! Have a listen, and start training with us today!

Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

00:00:45 Recommended boards & personal faves

00:16:22 Getting started, Tip 1: Angle adjustments

00:23:46 Tip 2: Turn off the lights

00:29:05 Tip 3: Positional isometrics

00:33:00 Tip 4: You belong

00:38:41 Etiquette, Tip 1: communicate

00:44:30 Tip 2: brushing (and making some friends)

00:48:22 Mercedes remembers her thought to add to the communication tip

00:49:44 Katja shares when she was given beta spray she didn't ask for

00:54:06 Encouragement

We're discussing performance climbing with Steve Bechtel today! Seems straightforward, but there can be some confusion about what you can actually achieve during a performance climbing phase, and how can we as athletes manage our expectations around it. Join our conversation as we talk about optimizing the conditions that lead to a great performance phase.

Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

00:1:10 Ideas of performance

00:03:40 Reaching performance peaks as an advanced climbing athlete & managing expectations

00:11:20 Focusing on wins, mental side of "forward," consistency

00:21:29 How to navigate performance for the folks who don't go outside very often

00:25:48 Balancing stoke to perform and preparing for a performance phase

00:32:02 Strategies to maintain strength during performance phase, & nutrition

00:39:09 Does skill level affect ability to reach a performance phase

00:43:17 Ability to adapt to new areas and how that can affect reaching performance phases

00:49:41 Navigate pressure you may put on yourself as an athlete

00:53:27 Battling the excuse: complaining

00:56:54 Mental endurance will get you through

Have some fun with us in today's episode and let's discuss differences between board climbing and gym climbing. The advantages, disadvantages, and how to adapt your training to each! Which do you prefer to climb on? Did you know about all the ways to utilize these tools? Did we miss anything? What has a training board or gym climb taught you? Let us know in the comments!

Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

1:52 About commercial gym climbing and board climbing

4:32 Types of boards and advantages of board climbing

19:30 Disadvantages of board climbing

29:00 Advantages of gym climbing

33:42 Disadvantages of gym climbing

39:02 Katja's favorite training board

40:25 We didn't talk about the spray wall -- look for Part 2 of this episode! And what did Mercedes change in her garage?! More to come!

In this solo episode of Modus Cafe, I get vulnerable about my struggle through an elbow injury. Recovery was about two years which is the longest recovery I've experienced. I questioned my identity as a climber, as a coach, as a human.

Not only am I sharing about how I overcame physical limitations, and found other ways of movement, but how I had to hurdle over the mental and emotional frustrations as well to find my Big Why and my joy for climbing again.

I'm grateful to be where I am now, and glad to be on this journey with you. Take what you can from my experience and remember the essence of climbing is always here for us. (*If you feel injured, go see a PT. My injuries are not your injuries*).  

Shout out to MoveMend: https://movemend.info/ and Union PT: https://unionpt.com/ both in Seattle!

Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

00:01:45 Multiple injuries & rehab in the past

00:02:55 May 2022 elbow injury (disclaimer: if you feel injured, go see a PT. My injuries are not your injuries)

00:09:40 Pain in shoulder

00:11:17 Starting to lose my mind

00:12:55 Experimenting with bodybuilding, dealing with body changes

00:15:20 Still in pain, still not climbing.

00:19:13 December 2023 turning point.

00:20:30 Importance of community and perspective.

00:23:26 Mental tools.

00:28:36 Rehab Process.

00:33:01 Transition back to climbing, adding pyramids and moonboards.

00:42:00 What keeps me motivated.

Today, we're discussing the advantages and disadvantages of pyramids in climbing training, when to use them, and why. This training tool helps climbers build a base of easier climbs while progressing to more difficult ones, and ultimately setting themselves up for success for their hardest sends. Pyramids can be tailored to a climber's specific goal, and if utilized effectively, this training can keep you organized and focused to help you break into your next grade! So, have a listen to this week's episode about the benefits of using climbing pyramids, and let us know how you'll be incorporating it into your climbing training!

Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

00:01:54 What is a pyramid?

00:05:04 What is often missing in a climber's natural climbing pyramid?

00:07:04 What is the timeframe for a pyramid. What about in-season, long-term, short-term?

00:8:32 Tips for & benefits of creating your pyramid.

00:11:18 What is the intention of your pyramid, and did Mercedes use a pyramid before her V10?

00:15:16 Preparing for the top or holding yourself back?

00:18:46 While not in-season, learn by filling in your pyramid even if it's an awkward climb.

00:22:07 Encouragement to stay organized during your in-season trip.

00:28:34 Guess what, there's no rules for your pyramid.

We're back with Steve Bechtel! At Modus we say, "Recover as hard as you train!" Today we emphasize the crucial role of recovery in training and climbing. We discuss the importance of developing work capacity, optimizing recovery strategies, and balancing training and recovery. Also in our conversation learn about active recovery, proper nutrition and sleep for recovery, and the drawbacks of overtraining and training to failure. Lastly, know the importance of consistency, patience, and time management in achieving results.

Flexibility is a big part of climbing movement and recovery. Join here for a free flexibility routines and theory: Flexibility Foundations for Beginners: https://www.modusathletica.com/flexibility-foundations-opt-in

00:01:29 How Steve Bechtel approaches recovery 

00:05:39 What to do in your workout to optimize recovery 

00:13:30 Cues/Words to help athletes recognize when to stop a session. 

00:20:35 Active recovery and sleep 

00:29:10 Incorporating recovery tools like a shakeout in a climbing routine, reduce stiffness, breathing 

00:34:19 Going to failure 

00:41:33 Time Sets 

00:47:50 Psychological benefits with consistency, patience 

00:52:15 Other recovery strategies  

01:05:43 Active vs passive recovery