By Steven Dimmitt
4.8
386386 ratings
The podcast currently has 332 episodes available.
Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!
Sign the Petition:
Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area
(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)
More Links:
stgeorgeclimberscoalition.org
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returns
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen
(00:02:16) – Intro
(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water
(00:04:33) – What’s going on with Moe’s Valley
(00:10:24) – Todd’s early days in Moe’s
(00:13:30) – Moe’s has it’s place
(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings
(00:17:46) – Fundraising
(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd
(00:27:56) – Striking a balance
(00:30:58) – Todd’s health & climbing
(00:33:00) – Top secret information
(00:34:02) – Wrap up
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you’ll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus
(00:03:50) – Jesse’s Tip #1: Think long-term
(00:08:10) – Steven’s Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it
(00:10:51) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades
(00:14:17) – Steven’s Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up
(00:17:29) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades
(00:28:34) – Steven’s Tip #3: Do more of what you haven’t been doing
(00:33:24) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)
(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up
(00:38:12) – Steven’s Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances
(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions
(00:44:12) – Creative home walls
(00:45:06) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you’ve been doing
(00:45:49) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Overtraining
(00:50:32) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people’s agendas
(01:00:46) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking
(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through
(01:09:21) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often
(01:12:43) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: You’re not actually plateaued, you’ve just built a tower
(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids
(01:19:48) – That’s a wrap on season 2!
Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steel man case for Kamala and Trump, and much more.
Join Kaizen’s Courage Collective:
skool.com/courage
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kaizen-asiedu
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Kaizen's Emmy
(00:04:22) – My political background, the health crisis, & RKF Jr
(00:11:01) – My algorithm breaking & discovering Kaizen
(00:12:46) – What Kaizen does
(00:14:32) – Kaizen’s political journey
(00:21:13) – Kaizen’s awakening
(00:28:35) – Becoming a life coach
(00:31:51) – The media, our legal system, & Trump
(00:39:15) – How the media portrays RFK Jr, & the “white supremacists are very fine people” narrative
(00:43:16) – Kaizen’s experience talking about Trump
(00:46:25) – Nuance & the power of being truthful
(00:51:13) – Media bias, the influence of advertising, & polarized perceptions
(00:56:12) – Incentives drive everything
(00:57:14) – Tulsi Gabbard, Joe Biden’s cognitive decline, & and the DNC appointing Kamala Harris
(01:02:09) – Kaizen’s political journey continued
(01:10:12) – Priorities
(01:12:00) – What is America?
(01:14:15) – What does a “great” America actually look like?
(01:20:57) – Government corruption, Hunter Biden’s laptop, censorship, & free speech
(01:29:48) – Why this election is bigger than Trump vs. Harris
(01:32:35) – Why I feel frustrated with US politics
(01:35:34) – My health journey & why I care about the health crisis
(01:40:52) – The sick care system & our food system
(01:42:13) – Monsanto, GMO crops, Roundup, glyphosate, Bayer, & cancer lawsuits
(01:47:47) – How much we spend managing chronic disease
(01:50:40) – Sense vs. dollars
(01:53:32) – The health crisis is fundamental
(01:59:34) – Ripple effects
(02:01:47) – Pharma & conflicts of interest
(02:02:30) – Voting with our dollars
(02:07:57) – Taking responsibility
(02:09:15) – Synergistic effects
(02:10:24) – Abortion, racism, & what happens if Trump wins
(02:23:59) – Inviting curiosity & losing perspective
(02:27:24) – Steel man argument for Kamala Harris
(02:32:25) – Mass deportation
(02:37:48) – Steel man argument for Trump
(02:41:34) – January 6th
(02:44:17) – Mail-in ballots & voter ID
(02:48:26) – My final thoughts
(02:50:41) – Kaizen’s final thoughts & The Courage Collective
Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Chalk Cartel:
chalkcartel.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Mad Rock:
madrock.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargo
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing
(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall
(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster
(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b
(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition
(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain
(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling
(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF
(00:25:45) – Representing South America
(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)
(00:28:33) – Goal oriented
(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”
(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)
(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo
(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall
(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga
(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training
(00:54:29) – When to specialize
(00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid
(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines
(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil
(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil
(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America
(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines
(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+
(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16
(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)
(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)
(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard
(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week.
Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast!
*The full version is 1:17:15.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Martin's Original Episode:
EP 143: Matt Heyliger
Work With Matt:
www.sendagain.co
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Banter with Matt
(00:03:47) – Overview of my finger injury
(00:06:42) – What I should have done
(00:17:44) – Remodeling & density hangs
(00:23:12) – The injury timeline
(00:25:00) – When to push it & thoughts on taping
(00:27:40) – Recap of our first PT session (not recorded)
(00:29:49) – Maintaining strength & avoiding barbells
(00:33:56) – 4x loading per day (6 reps of 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off)
(00:37:37) – BFR
(00:40:02) – Finger pain threshold testing
(00:46:27) – How I felt after finger testing
(00:47:40) – Planning out my climbing
(00:53:00) – Palpation & massage
(00:57:04) – Acupressure rings
(00:58:30) – The next phase of loading
(01:05:52) – Too many moves in a session
(01:07:34) – How to climb around a minor pulley injury
(01:09:41) – Tetris
(01:11:00) – Testing with tape
(01:12:11) – Plans for the coming week
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
KAYA:
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Rhino Skin Solutions:
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-5
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:00:19) – Injuries we thought we wouldn’t come back from
(00:05:02) – Caveats, & the inevitability of injury
(00:09:19) – Jesse’s Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible
(00:11:07) – Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future
(00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Know that it’s going to be ok
(00:16:04) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume
(00:19:07) – Steven’s Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up
(00:27:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing
(00:31:19) – My best onsight season ever
(00:35:07) – Steven’s Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)
(00:38:41) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Protect your identity
(00:43:16) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to
(00:46:59) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn’t understand your sport/identity
(00:52:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly
(00:57:28) – More finger rehab tips
(00:58:53) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)
(01:07:18) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury
(01:09:54) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)
(01:14:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process
(01:15:27) – Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.
(01:15:42) – Wrap up
Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Ocelot Grips:
ocelotgrips.com/nugget
Use code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.
Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Green Chef:
greenchef.com/nugget50
Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beard
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:34) – The Murder Room
(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago
(00:10:02) – Molly’s background
(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s
(00:14:45) – The language of movement
(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master
(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s
(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes
(00:34:36) – The power of climbing
(00:35:49) – Getting her L5
(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting
(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting
(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends
(01:00:54) – Coordination
(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead
(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation
(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter
(01:12:10) – A tide shift
(01:18:29) – Molly’s current job & recent injuries
(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing
(01:24:49) – Finding separation
(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu
(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River
(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters
(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?
(01:52:14) – Splitting the field
(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”
(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more.
Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals
The NUG:
frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug
Check out my new portable hangboard.
KAYA:
kayaclimb.com
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
BetterHelp:
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-4
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – The NUG
(00:01:19) – Two things that have improved Jesse’s finger strength
(00:04:12) – Using climbing to gain finger strength
(00:07:53) – Overview
(00:09:05) – Steven’s Tip #1: Do something simple enough that you can be consistent with it, and do it for a very long time
(00:11:02) – Examples of simple consistency
(00:13:48) – Climbing on a board
(00:18:14) – Jesse’s Tip #1: You probably don’t need much finger training
(00:19:37) – Maintaining finger strength on a trip
(00:21:50) – Steven’s Tip #2: Use big edges to get strong and use small edges to apply that strength to the rock
(00:31:28) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the adaptations from different styles of training
(00:37:41) – Owning the hold
(00:38:43) – Finger curls/active flexion
(00:42:53) – Building forearm capacity and endurance
(00:44:08) – Rate of force development
(00:46:12) – Wall crawls/crimp crawls/low gear
(00:48:33) – Steven’s Tip #3: Own the hold
(00:53:32) – RPE and 10-second hangs
(00:56:32) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Practice grips on the wall
(01:01:28) – Steven’s Tip #4: Train a variety of grip types
(01:11:54) – Bonus Tip: The Ladder Program
(01:14:56) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Training too heavy
(01:17:20) – Genetric freaks and the 200 lb goal
(01:18:25) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Not considering how you climb when you train your fingers (i.e. Your finger training should be specific to you)
(01:22:26) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Doing your finger training when you’re tired
(01:24:38) – Watching Tyler Nelson one-arm hang a 15mm edge when tired
(01:27:53) – Rate of Force test
(01:29:28) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Switching protocols too often
(01:30:30) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Too much “perfect” edge training
(01:34:44) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Stressing out about which protocol is “the best”
(01:36:30) – “It takes years”
(01:38:18) – Bonus Tip: N=1
(01:39:55) – Wrap up
Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.
Become a Patron:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
PhysiVantage:
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.
Revival Climbing Coalition:
revivalclimbing.com
EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)
Crimpd:
crimpd.com
Or download the Crimpd app for free!
Check out the Tension Board 2:
tensionboard.com/nugget
Or use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megos
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a’s
(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger
(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects
(00:14:45) – Bibliographie
(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to
(00:21:08) – The America Tour
(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber
(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a
(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change
(00:45:51) – Leg pump
(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway
(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger
(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017
(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential
(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week
(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape
(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food
(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption
(01:07:51) – Olympics
(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions
(01:12:51) – The board master
(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering
(01:16:00) – Wrap up
Another phone call with Ron Kauk.
Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:
sacredrok.org
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