George Lowe is a Colorado-based climber and alpinist who was awarded the 2026 Lifetime Achievement Award by the Access Fund. We talked about his early life, what keeps him returning to the mountains at age 82, how his physics career paralleled his climbing, getting too close to the edge on the North Twin, his “magnificent failure” on Latok I, life advice for climbers in their 30s, and more. 

Access Fund:

Eventbrite Link — Access Fund 35th Birthday Community Festival

Donation Page

Coaching:

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Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Apply for Private Coaching 👉 https://thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching/#private-coaching

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/george-lowe

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:02:10) – Liz
(00:09:02) – Retirement
(00:10:46) – Climbing at 82
(00:13:21) – Early outdoor adventures
(00:17:28) – Early climbing
(00:20:58) – Getting hooked
(00:22:27) – Cosmic Ray Physics
(00:25:30) – George’s career
(00:31:56) – Problem solving
(00:35:28) – Coworkers
(00:37:17) – The North Twin
(00:57:16) – Why he keeps climbing
(01:06:36) – Latok I
(01:19:02) – Friendships
(01:19:44) – Life advice
(01:25:13) – Wrap up

Dr. Mohammad Ashori is a board-certified family medicine physician, health coach, and rock climber. We talked about the importance of putting on muscle, how much rest we need between training sessions, nutrition and metabolic health, zone 2 cardio, key metrics and blood markers to track, different levels of data, why some data can be misleading or harmful, relative vs. absolute risk, and much more. 

Want to work with Dr. Ashori?

Get 15% off your 1st health assessment with Dr. Ashori. Book your schedule here and use the code: NUGGET15

Want climbing or nutrition coaching?

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Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Private Mentorship Program (Work Directly with Steven) 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mohammad-ashori

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) returns to the podcast to discuss the unique challenges of being tall or short in climbing. We talk about the disadvantages tall climbers face, how injury risk and training volume change with size, mindset shifts for both tall and short climbers, why climbing is inherently unfair, practical tips, and much more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justen-sjong-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:48) – Gardening

(00:04:04) – The Red

(00:08:17) – Introducing our topic

(00:12:34) – Shaming

(00:18:17) – Challenges for tall climbers

(00:23:46) – Injuries & training volume

(00:28:39) – Momentum

(00:37:55) – Foot strength & stiff shoes

(00:51:26) – Finding your own beta

(00:57:58) – Maximizing your reach

(00:59:56) – Grades

(01:10:43) – Finding the best beta

(01:15:36) – Fairness

(01:18:07) – One-foot drill

(01:21:04) – Expressing challenges

(01:22:50) – Grizzly bear

(01:24:42) – Mindset shifts for short climbers

(01:31:02) – Seeking street credit

(01:37:33) – Unclassic climbs

(01:38:23) – More tips for short climbers

(01:42:26) – Chunking down moves

(01:48:35) – Should short & tall climbers train differently?

(01:51:04) – Body types

(01:55:52) – Who do you want to be?

(02:01:09) – Can’t vs. yet

(02:02:11) – Justen’s climbing update

(02:08:40) – Wrap up

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering specialists, his winter training in Arco, boards vs. spray walls, go-to bouldering circuits, tactics for hard flash attempts, catching the moment, and much more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:11) – Settling down in Arco

(00:08:47) – Why are the best sport climbers also the best boulderers?

(00:15:23) – Does sport climbing help bouldering?

(00:18:35) – How the 8C flash goal evolved

(00:24:05) – How little Adam warms up

(00:27:26) – Board and spray wall training

(00:33:37) – Adam’s off-the-wall training

(00:36:19) – Stronger than ever

(00:40:21) – Why Adam doesn’t train on a hangboard

(00:43:43) – Edge lifting vs. climbing

(00:48:40) – Interval bouldering

(00:53:04) – How Adam’s indoor bouldering sessions have changed

(00:55:04) – Interval bouldering continued

(00:57:08) – Short routes vs. long boulders

(01:01:21) – Boulder flashing tactics

(01:05:30) – Visualization

(01:08:48) – Choosing flash beta

(01:11:08) – Adam’s weaknesses & strengths

(01:16:34) – Catching the moment

(01:20:20) – Flashing Emotional Landscapes 8C

(01:25:11) – 8C+ flash goal?

(01:29:54) – B.I.G.

(01:36:22) – What’s next for Adam

(01:40:11) – The Smith Rock project

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest route of his life. We talked about his early climbing and hiatus, the turning point, Project 127, living in the crescendo, balancing family life, his 33 days on Flight of the Conchords, the tactics that helped him send, and much more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/aaron-shamy

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:43) – Aaron’s early climbing

(00:06:56) – The X Games in the '90s

(00:12:05) – 15-year hiatus

(00:16:08) – The turning point

(00:20:43) – Starting his comeback

(00:22:33) – Milliseconds and millimeters

(00:24:17) – The rule of thirds

(00:27:23) – Project 127

(00:41:00) – Living in the crescendo

(00:44:12) – Balancing family life

(00:50:24) – 33 days on Flight of the Conchords 5.14c (8c+)

(00:57:32) – Why different routes require different strategies

(01:01:48) – Mental strategies for reducing pressure

(01:05:29) – Day 32 (the kneebar)

(01:10:45) – Day 33 (the send)

(01:14:11) – Playfulness & tactics

(01:18:13) – Best climbing days

(01:23:48) – Transformation

(01:28:20) – Life of Villains 5.14d (9a)

(01:32:29) – Supplements

(01:34:29) – Who are you becoming?

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who experience anxiety or depression, what Rifle was like in the early ‘90s, how Chris Sharma broke the paradigm, embracing training to send his hardest routes, his new role with the American Alpine Club, and the inaugural American Climbing Journal coming later this year. You can learn more at americanalpineclub.org

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/matt-samet

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:27) – Teasing topics

(00:05:34) – Panic attacks

(00:10:19) – Benzo addiction

(00:26:45) – Setback & self-care

(00:36:32) – Matt’s biggest lesson

(00:43:48) – Matt’s advice for anxiety & depression

(00:48:36) – Rifle in the early '90s

(01:08:07) – Sharma broke the paradigm

(01:14:10) – Embracing the Moonboard

(01:21:46) – Training results

(01:30:24) – Matt’s climbing now

(01:32:28) – Moonboard math

(01:36:52) – An alternative to 4x4s

(01:39:15) – Matt’s route projects

(01:45:49) – Loving climbing more than ever

(01:50:59) – The American Climbing Journal

(02:04:59) – Adam Ondra appreciation riff

(02:08:14) – Wrap up

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditative arts helped his boxing, how 20 minutes of meditation per day for 1 year can permanently change your life, breathing tips for climbers, how to regulate your nervous system, and much more. You can learn more about Jeff at theyieldingwarrior.com

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jeff-patterson

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:30) – Jeff’s background in martial arts

(00:04:26) – How Tai Chi helped his boxing

(00:13:37) – The Meditative Arts

(00:16:55) – What climbers can learn from martial arts

(00:20:31) – 20 minutes per day for 1 year

(00:23:58) – 3 considerations

(00:33:35) – Nervous system regulation

(00:45:01) – Tangible tips

(00:51:06) – Make the commitment

(00:52:56) – Comparing martial arts

(00:55:33) – Letting go of the mask

(00:58:35) – Where to find Jeff

(00:59:20) – Final advice

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how his relationship with climbing has improved, balancing an engineering career with traveling and climbing, discovering and understanding moves, the boulder he is most psyched to complete, and much more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/herm-feissner

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:38) – FA of The Practitioner V11

(00:08:38) – Getting into climbing in 1987

(00:22:18) – Climbing with stronger people

(00:27:51) – Evolving through the disciplines

(00:33:12) – CATS

(00:37:11) – Herm’s training philosophy

(00:44:32) – Aging & improving

(00:55:22) – Avoiding the expiration date

(01:01:05) – How Herm’s climbing has changed

(01:07:35) – How hard Herm climbs

(01:10:27) – Who will push bouldering to the next level?

(01:20:27) – Herm’s grading criteria

(01:27:25) – How his relationship with climbing has improved

(01:30:35) – Relationships

(01:38:22) – Boarding school & engineering

(01:50:12) – How to be outside

(01:58:57) – Discovering & understanding moves

(02:02:59) – I Portici

(02:08:02) – Wrap up

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him at Smith Rock, our parallel family histories, treating life as a game, how the Cobra Crack changed his career, how he trained as a teenager, stamina vs. strength, what makes Dave Graham so strong, and his book, Uplifted: The Evolution of a Climbing Life.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Climb Accelerator (Direct Link to Course) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sonnie-trotter

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:38) – Connor Herson’s 5.15a FAs

(00:09:35) – Gunning for 5.15

(00:11:49) – Meeting Sonnie at Smith Rock

(00:20:37) – His life routine

(00:24:43) – Sonnie’s kids

(00:29:24) – Time warp

(00:33:24) – Family history

(00:39:35) – Life is a game

(00:42:45) – The business side of Sonnie’s life

(00:53:19) – Choices & constraints

(01:03:07) – Cobra Crack

(01:09:20) – The progression of climbing

(01:16:24) – Getting sponsored

(01:20:07) – The age of print media

(01:24:34) – Rifle in the 90s

(01:30:52) – How he trained as a teenager

(01:36:04) – Stamina vs. strength

(01:45:30) – Sticking to the basics

(01:49:31) – What makes Dave Graham so strong

(01:54:33) – Writing his book

Peter Mortimer is an award-winning filmmaker (King Lines, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, The Alpinist) and co-creator of the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talked about his latest project, The Dark Wizard, a new 4-part documentary series now streaming on HBO Max about Dean Potter, which shares the full story of Dean in all of his human complexity—as a visionary, climbing legend, and a tormented soul.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Join Climb Accelerator (Earlybird Sale) 👉 https://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com/climb-accelerator

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/peter-mortimer

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:21) – Peter’s film career

(00:11:54) – Hustling

(00:15:28) – The Dark Wizard

(00:31:14) – Inside Dean’s mind

(00:38:34) – Dean’s rivalry with Alex Honnold

(00:49:42) – Everything on the table

(00:51:25) – Where to watch

(00:52:34) – Where to follow Peter