Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more.

Buy Stian's Book:

adventurebooks.com/collections/climbing-books-guidebooks/products/the-climbing-bible-managing-injuries

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard.

Tindeq:

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stian-christophersen-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:09) – Stian’s finger injury, & why medical professionals are cautious

(00:07:40) – Practicing board climbing

(00:11:55) – Outline of topics

(00:15:18) – Most common climbing injuries

(00:18:13) – Rules for preventing injuries

(00:20:39) – How much hard climbing is reasonable

(00:29:13) – Lifting weights

(00:31:04) – The Japanese approach

(00:43:43) – Finger training to prevent finger injuries

(00:52:05) – How frequently should we change our finger training protocols?

(00:56:01) – Cluster sets, & best pulling exercises to prevent shoulder injuries

(00:59:25) – When to do extra strength training

(01:01:47) – Sleep, nutrition, stress, & identity

(01:06:45) – Regaining confidence after injury

(01:09:45) – Optimism & discovery

(01:20:42) – Is there an ideal way to rehab pulley injuries?

(01:25:52) – How to rehab pulley injuries

(01:35:14) – Loading & adapting from within

(01:43:50) – The good news with pulley injuries

(01:45:59) – Is surgery ever necessary for pulley injuries?

(01:48:20) – How to reintroduce climbing after a pulley injury

(01:51:20) – Reintroducing crimps & hard climbing

(01:53:59) – Preparing for tweaky holds

(02:01:08) – Individual finger training

(02:05:57) – Training for hard shoulder moves

(02:07:20) – Growth plate injuries

(02:10:58) – Injections for finger pain

(02:13:20) – Mindset tips

(02:16:06) – Tall climbers, tendon strength, & talent

(02:20:49) – Where to buy Stian’s new book

Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino’s meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard.

Tindeq:

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:34) – Themes for the today’s podcast

(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle’

(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency

(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle

(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety

(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume

(00:41:08) – Tree crimping

(00:43:50) – Almost daily training

(00:49:08) – The basics

(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions

(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches

(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game

(01:24:43) – Finger training

(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude’ V14)

(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs

(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s

(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks

(02:02:56) – Daydreaming

(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail

(02:13:27) – One thing at a time

(02:17:19) – Writing books

(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody’ E11

(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts

(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict

(02:42:06) – Dave’s experiment with a Western Diet

(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood

(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health

(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto

(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto

(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management

(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol

(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors

(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol

(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research

(03:54:50)  Where to buy Dave’s book

This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!

Holiday Gift Ideas:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift

Gift a Patreon subscription 👆

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

The NUG 👆

thenuggetclimbing.com/shop

Hello Friends merch 👆

Rhino Skin Solutions:

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/best-of-2024

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:05) – EP 200: Brook Rabouotou (Patreon EXTRA)

(00:14:29) – EP 201: James Pearson

(00:32:30) – EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns

(00:43:58) – EP 214: Neely Quinn Returns

(00:50:30) – EP 216: Maddy Cope

(00:54:30) – EP 221: Keenan Takahashi (Patreon EXTRA)

(01:02:20) – EP 223: Aidan Roberts Returns

(01:19:24) – EP 229: Shauna Coxsey

(01:26:26) – EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest

(01:35:08) – EP 240: Alex Megos

(01:45:18) – EP 242: Molly Beard

(01:53:02) – EP 249: Chris Sharma (Patreon EXTRA)

(02:01:32) – EP 250: Beth Rodden

(02:12:12) – EP 252: Justin Salas

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addiction, finding climbing, her Instagram career, health issues and adrenal fatigue, her experiment with the carnivore diet, responsible meat eating, chocolate cake, and much more.

Holiday Gift Ideas:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift

Gift a Patreon subscription 👆

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

The NUG 👆

thenuggetclimbing.com/shop

Hello Friends merch 👆

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/april-davidson

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:22) – Living with a blind man

(00:07:33) – Why they quit vanlife

(00:10:04) – Building out their van

(00:21:02) – Settling in Vegas

(00:23:44) – April’s relationship with climbing

(00:26:18) – Growing up & moving a lot

(00:31:44) – Moving to LA

(00:33:40) – 30s

(00:40:00) – Loss & addiction

(00:49:06) – An abusive relationship

(00:52:01) – Finding climbing

(00:54:34) – Breaking free

(00:58:56) – Dissociation & wasted time

(01:02:13) – Support & accountability

(01:05:21) – Her Instagram career

(01:12:57) – Photography & video

(01:16:15) – Going with the flow

(01:17:57) – Weddings & elopements

(01:21:10) – Health issues & adrenal fatigue

(01:28:56) – The carnivore diet

(01:35:25) – Getting strong

(01:40:00) – Gut health & her current diet

(01:43:52) – Vegan & vegetarian diets

(01:50:52) – Responsible meat eating

(01:55:08) – Quitting caffeine

(01:56:37) – Food tracking

(01:59:39) – Cake

(02:00:28) – Rapid fire questions

(02:04:18) – Narrating life to Justin

(02:07:30) – Ultimate trust

(02:08:34) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He’s also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.

Holiday Gift Ideas:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift

Gift a Patreon subscription 👆

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

The NUG 👆

thenuggetclimbing.com/shop

Hello Friends merch 👆

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Rhino Skin Solutions:

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

BetterHelp:

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/justin-salas

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:23) – Pulley injuries

(00:05:26) – Vanlife

(00:11:01) – Justin’s visual experience

(00:15:35) – An invisible disability

(00:23:37) – “Yes I’m blind, no I’m not.”

(00:27:55) – Faces

(00:30:45) – Losing his vision

(00:35:59) – Denial, gratitude, & bad days

(00:40:58) – BMX & getting into climbing

(00:44:49) – Coping mechanisms

(00:48:36) – Assistive technology

(00:54:34) – How he climbs

(01:02:26) – His first day of climbing

(01:10:59) – Sight guides

(01:22:34) – Footholds

(01:25:29) – Stamina training

(01:28:21) – Fred’s Cave & projecting tactics

(01:33:14) – Getting inspired

(01:36:34) – Texas Hold Em

(01:37:32) – Assessing landings

(01:41:31) – Downclimbing & approaching

(01:45:04) – Toothpaste

(01:47:58) – Specialized bikes

(01:51:42) – Asking for help

(01:57:54) – April

(02:05:47) – Building out a van

(02:10:09) – Vegas

(02:12:56) – Nature is healing

(02:15:37) – Overcoming fear

(02:24:55) – Mitigating risk

(02:27:29) – What drives Justin in climbing

(02:30:48) – The Olympics & paraclimbing competitions

(02:39:39) – Blind visualization

(02:46:48) – Building a mental map

(02:50:11) – Changemaker

(02:54:40) – Faith

(03:01:04) – Curiosity & learning

(03:04:31) – A beautiful question from Andy

(03:11:28) – “A house divided will fall.”

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.

Holiday Gift Ideas:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/gift

Gift a Patreon subscription 👆

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

The NUG 👆

thenuggetclimbing.com/shop

Hello Friends merch 👆

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Green Chef:

greenchef.com/NUGGET50

Use code "NUGGET50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-jerome

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:12) – Hit & run

(00:04:42) – The recovery process

(00:07:57) – A paradigm shift

(00:10:55) – The Top 100 project

(00:13:23) – A really fun game

(00:17:08) – A healthier relationship with climbing

(00:21:02) – Body type & relationship with food

(00:25:12) – Finger strength & volume as a heavier climber

(00:33:33) – Minimal effective dose

(00:40:59) – Cycling projects & developing

(00:49:02) – A new bouldering area in Utah

(01:00:57) – Documenting new boulders

(01:08:00) – Bouldering in The New

(01:11:47) – Buying a house in West Virginia

(01:32:37) – House swaps & gratitude

(01:37:45) – More about The New

(01:46:09) – Life going forward

(01:50:02) – Summer vibes in The New

(01:53:15) – Best lines in the UK

(01:55:09) – Eric’s career with KAYA

(02:03:19) – Building a database

(02:07:25) – Gamification & misconceptions about KAYA

(02:17:38) – Upcoming KAYA features

(02:21:02) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber’s Story is available now.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

BetterHelp:

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Rhino Skin Solutions:

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-rodden

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:00:54) – Injuries

(00:03:28) – Writing her book

(00:08:14) – Excavating memories

(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy

(00:13:59) – Living in fear

(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan

(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy

(00:27:06) – Putting the book together

(00:28:29) – A shared experience

(00:37:45) – Being honest

(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy’s book

(00:47:39) – Facing backlash

(00:56:11) – Reductionism

(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells

(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career

(01:10:48) – Magic Line

(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change

(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game

(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories

(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs

(01:44:28) – The next level down

(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism

(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book

(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth’s book

(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. 

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharma

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone

(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down

(00:10:32) – Knee injury

(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship

(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura

(00:20:07) – New challenges

(00:27:32) – Chapters

(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot

(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia

(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution

(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start

(00:52:32) – Should or should not

(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing

(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute

(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics

(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo

(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives

(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season

(01:27:21) – Santa Linya

(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again

(01:40:17) – Paris 2028

(01:46:32) – Embracing competition

(01:50:00) – The next generation

(01:54:12) – The media churn

(01:57:22) – JB Tribout’s advice

(02:00:22) – “It’s cool to do hard shit. ”

(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids

(02:12:32) – Ferrari

(02:16:16) – Magic

(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever

(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people

(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

Rhino Skin Solutions:

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

BetterHelp:

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huber

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:25) – Many valleys

(00:04:53) – Hunting

(00:14:39) – Staying young

(00:16:29) – Thomas’ recent trip to Choktoi

(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions

(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp

(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis’ relationship with climbing

(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible

(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen

(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57

(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday

(01:01:17) – Beer break

(01:02:37) – Early training

(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution

(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux

(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup

(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s

(01:20:55) – 9a & beer

(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage

(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex

(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex

(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings

(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys

(01:54:00) – Patagonia

(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap

(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel

(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive

(02:06:24) – Freiheit

Moe’s Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe’s Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!

Sign the Petition:

Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe’s Valley Area

(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)

More Links:

stgeorgeclimberscoalition.org

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen

(00:02:16) – Intro

(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water

(00:04:33) – What’s going on with Moe’s Valley

(00:10:24) – Todd’s early days in Moe’s

(00:13:30) – Moe’s has it’s place

(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings

(00:17:46) – Fundraising

(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd

(00:27:56) – Striking a balance

(00:30:58) – Todd’s health & climbing

(00:33:00) – Top secret information

(00:34:02) – Wrap up