Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod’s original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you’ll try it out?

Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight! 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/connor-bodin

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:11) – The 100-Day Experiment

(00:11:14) – The results (Critical Force & climbing)

(00:20:07) – High-Low training

(00:24:11) – The benefit of simplicity

(The following topics are available for Patrons only)

(00:29:17) – Junk mileage vs. movement practice

(00:35:33) – Plans for future experiments

(00:38:11) – The power of the pull-up

(00:44:35) – Building your own board

(00:48:46) – The benefits of an adjustable wall

(00:52:05) – Climbing shoes

(00:58:56) – Connor’s next experiment

(01:03:36) – Dave MacLeod’s experiment

(01:10:34) – Chris Sommer’s interview with Tim Ferriss

(01:13:22) – One-arm vs. two-arm hanging

(01:19:30) – Patron Spotlights

(01:21:09) – Tough to be a pro

(01:24:19) – Rekindled psych

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sacred Rok, getting kids to enjoy healthy food, farm-to-school, and more.

Maui Nui Venison:

mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET

The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. 

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Donate to Sacred Rok:

Directly 👉 sacredrok.org

Via The Nugget 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:14) – Chickens

(00:06:18) – El Salto

(00:07:36) – Outline of topics

(00:11:27) – Katie’s climbing these days

(00:18:38) – Getting more value from climbing trips

(00:30:05) – How to continue progressing

(00:33:55) – Training & cold plunge routine

(00:42:17) – Perimenopause & menopause

(00:52:28) – 40:30:30 & nutrition tips for climbers

(01:05:35) – Katie’s thoughts on keto & carnivore

(01:13:57) – Ingredients to avoid

(01:21:58) – Starting Sacred Rok with Ron Kauk

(01:35:28) – Getting kids to eat healthy food

(01:39:07) – Farm to school

(01:47:19) – Affordable nutrition

(01:54:36) – Katie’s go-to carb sources

(01:59:46) – Saturated fat, dairy, & best fats for cooking

(02:02:10) – Seed oils

(02:04:54) – Rapid fire questions

(02:12:59) – Cathy Wagner’s scorecard

(02:15:18) – Wrap up

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget-club

👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.

Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniro

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing

(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams

(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead

(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)

(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers

(00:30:08) – The Needles

(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil

(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins

(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time

(00:49:59) – The Winnebago

(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds

(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch

(01:05:11) – City of Rocks

(01:10:24) – Drawing the line

(01:16:12) – Old school bolting

(01:24:40) – Riggins

(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing

(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing

(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym

(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days

(01:43:13) – Listen to your body

(01:46:17) – Respect your body

(01:47:50) – What excites Tony

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget-club

👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.

Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondra

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’

(00:05:13) – Rock Stars

(00:07:26) – Adam as a kid

(00:15:14) – Unfinished business

(00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects

(00:23:50) – Untapped potential

(00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As

(00:31:17) – The Imhotep project

(00:39:55) – Training for long boulders

(00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing

(00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado

(00:48:40) – Patxi training

(00:51:07) – Modern comp routes

(00:54:29) – Feelings about comps

(00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps

(01:05:41) – The Olympics

(01:07:40) – Speed climbing

(01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall

(01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics

(01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock

(01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career

(01:32:50) – The monster within

(01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes

(01:38:50) – 8a at 80

(01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale

(01:41:59) – Finger size

(01:45:09) – Hugo

(01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things

(01:48:15) – What’s next

(01:49:21) – Wrap up

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard.

Tindeq:

tindeq.com

Use code “nugget” for 10% off your order.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didier

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island

(00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching

(00:06:30) – The Air Force

(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time

(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force

(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly

(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing

(00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training

(00:35:20) – India

(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids

(00:53:54) – Sofia

(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile

(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn

(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer

(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength

(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing

(01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout

(01:26:36) – Example training week

(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention

(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process

(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself

(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions

(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late

(02:05:28) – How to find your passion

(02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project

(02:22:37) – Future plans

(02:24:02) – Favorite training music

(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes

(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual

(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type

(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016

(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film

(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations

(02:35:59) – Photography

(02:38:04) – Patagonia

(02:38:54) – Follow your dream

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris’ latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest’ 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more.

Maui Nui Venison:

mauinuivenison.com/NUGGET

The healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. 

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the NEW Kragg Collection.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ron

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:01) – Fish sticks

(00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other

(00:15:08) – Threads & identity

(00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules

(00:31:15) – Follow your heart

(00:43:32) – Vision Quest

(00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing

(01:01:02) – The essence

(01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force

(01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering

(01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers

(01:30:39) – Flow & precision

(01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line

(01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom

(01:46:31) – Le Blonde

(01:48:19) – Motivation

(01:54:04) – A good feeling

(01:56:24) – Mother Earth

(01:57:37) – A personal path

(01:58:49) – Wrap up

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic and selfishness of competitions, eating disorders, becoming adventurous, trips with Yuji Hirayama, meeting her husband James Pearson, discussing hard things with your kids, the color yellow, naming emotions, gentle feminism, and much more.

Mad Rock:

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caroline-ciavaldini

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:32) – Growing up in La Réunion

(00:07:14) – How Caro started climbing

(00:09:25) – Early competing

(00:14:03) – Her mom’s suicide

(00:21:29) – Mental coaching

(00:25:27) – Magic & selfishness

(00:37:42) – Competition vs. outdoor skills

(00:46:18) – Eating disorders & food obsession

(00:54:37) – Recovery & satiety

(01:01:13) – Becoming adventurous

(01:08:09) – Trad moments

(01:15:43) – Trips with Yuji Hirayama

(01:20:38) – Discussing hard things with kids

(01:24:42) – Paradoxes & genetics

(01:30:25) – Yellow

(01:36:41) – Le Voyage & retraining fear

(01:44:24) – Naming emotions

(01:48:45) – Gentle feminism

(01:58:07) – Women’s cycles

(02:03:28) – Menopause & aging in climbing

(02:13:20) – The struggles of a pro athlete

(02:21:31) – House projects & side hustles

(02:26:22) – Wrap up

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more.

Rúngne:

rungne.info/nugget

👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from Rúngne

Use code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.

AG1:

drinkAG1.com/NUGGET

Use this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.

PhysiVantage:

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.

Arc’teryx:

Women’s climbing clothing

Men’s climbing clothing

Check out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/randy-leavitt

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:12) – The Dune Cracks

(00:05:52) – Offwidth climbing

(00:09:17) – Traumatic hip belays

(00:14:35) – Bolting Jumbo Love

(00:20:01) – From mountaineering to sport climbing

(00:26:03) – Book of Hate

(00:31:11) – Planet Earth

(00:33:39) – The first cell phones

(00:39:47) – Money, freedom, & happiness

(00:42:45) – Surfing vs. climbing

(00:54:15) – The vision of new routing

(00:56:52) – A new area in Baja

(01:01:16) – Thinking ahead to 40

(01:13:44) – Almost drowning

(01:21:50) – Aging gracefully

(01:27:54) – Hallux limitus

(01:34:24) – Getting remodeled

(01:39:21) – Piloting

(01:49:55) – More route development

(01:53:36) – The Grand Canyon

(01:56:26) – Time

(02:00:06) – Don’t squander your days

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar’s study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more.

Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/reviews

Or skip the discount and listen to the full episode here 👉  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.

How You Can Help:

https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy and Mark and Julie Calhoun

Show Notes:  

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherd

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit

(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system

(00:05:49) – Louise’s intro to climbing in 1978

(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues

(00:18:36) – Formative experiences

(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan

(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style

(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles

(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught

(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles

(01:20:00) – How we can help

(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation

(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities

(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up