Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the final of those five aspects: principle vs. prescription in climbing training.

This episode originally aired on March 23, 2018.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Dale Wilson | Climbing Performance Metrics

Board Meetings | Should Climbers Train Where They Are or Where They Want To Be?

Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize?

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers

Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

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Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the fourth of those five aspects: Training where you are currently instead of where you want to be.

Starting where you are is an important first step that is often missed. 

This episode originally aired on March 22, 2018.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Board Meetings | Should Climbers Generalize or Specialize?

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers

Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the third of those five aspects: should climbers generalize or specialize?

There is a time to grow your skill set, but it can also be appropriate to focus on one aspect of it. But how do we know when to do which?

This episode originally aired on March 21, 2018.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Board Meetings | The Pros and Cons of Grade Pyramids vs. Towers

Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the second of those five aspects: the pros and cons of building a grade pyramid vs. a tower.

Is one better than the other? When is each appropriate? How might one or the other impact your future climbing?

This episode originally aired on March 20, 2018.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Board Meetings | The Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing.

So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing?

This episode originally aired on March 19, 2018.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. 

Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. 

Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c.

They discuss:

Check out more here!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.

----------------------------------

Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

An update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's.

Check out the new book! 

Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners.

Check out all of Joy's courses.

Sign up for Joy's newsletter.

Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout!

Get on the waitlist for The Postpartum Project training.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Sport Climber Experiences of Pregnancy and Return-to-Sport Postpartum Research Study Survey

Teal Dreher’s Pregnancy & Postpartum Climbing blog

Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West

Beth Rodden | Climbing and Parenting

Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00:00) Intro

(00:02:05) How Joy Found this Niche

(00:16:37) Empowerment and Vulnerability

(00:31:31) Joy’s Overarching Philosophy

(00:38:55) Disclaimers and Contraindications

(00:41:48) First Trimester

(00:44:07) ANNOTATION: Evidence Based vs. Evidence Informed

(01:01:13) ANNOTATION: Beta for the Bump

(01:10:50) Second Trimester

(01:19:50) ANNOTATION: Diastasis, Deep Core, Linea Alba

(01:36:23) Third Trimester

(01:58:34) Wrap Up

(02:04:48) Outro

This is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys with vision loss and how climbing – the sport, and the community – provides support. We begin the conversation with each of them explaining their sight loss and their relationship to climbing.

Follow EBC on Instagram.

Follow Justin on Instagram.

Follow Seneida on Instagram.

Follow Chaz on Instagram.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

More episodes of Every Body Climbs

More episodes of Sends and Suffers

Maureen Beck | Adapting

Justin Salas | Nonsighting

REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training.

In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the details of the two seasons where they saw big progress, including how getting bit by a bat while on route might just give you superpowers.

Find Lucia and Noah online at Beta Addicts.

Follow Lucia and Noah on Instagram.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Tyler Algeo and Scott Pagel | Being Good Climbing Partners

REMIX: EFFORT

The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber

Ebook Training Plans

The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00:00) Intro

(00:01:34) Meeting Noah and Lucia

(00:10:39) Goals and Choosing a Plan

(00:20:34) Fitting Training Into Life

(00:29:39) How Did the Training Go?

(00:36:07) Did Anything Surprise You?

(00:42:42) How Much Do You Get Outside?

(00:49:35) How Did the Training Show Up?

(00:53:39) Fall Season After Training

(00:58:15) Bit by a Bat on Route

(01:06:10) Spring Season After Training

(01:23:05) Wrap Up