Andy McVittie is a physiotherapist and climbing coach based in the UK. He is currently working towards building research-based guidelines for youth athletic development. On this episode, we talk about his personal climbing journey of over 30 years, what youth climbing needs right now, and pursuing fulfillment as a climber.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 

Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing

0:01:41 - Anthony - Balancing outdoor climbing with training

0:07:40 - Rob - Pacing, breathing, and mantras

0:13:25 - Cian - How different grading systems affect peoples' conceptions of their climbing

0:18:33 - Jantina - How often to chalk up

0:22:10 - Steven - Finding partners

0:27:18 - Instagram Q - Keeping stoke while injured

0:29:30 - Instagram Q - How has coaching changed my views on climbing

0:31:40 - Instagram Q - Is visualization necessary for limit climbing?

Henry Davis is a professional routesetter and coach based in Austin, TX. He coached and set for Team Texas, set for multiple training centers, and is one of the founders of the future climbing gym, The Workshop. On this episode, we talk about route setting, comp climbing, paths to skill development, and much more. 

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 

Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing

0:01:30 Ethan – Strength and finger training after an outdoor session

0:05:05 Josh – Improving high step ability and hip mobility

0:09:50 Jantina – Utility of off-the-wall balance exercises

0:13:05 Sam – Responsibility in developing climbing areas

0:19:25 Foo – What is “good form”?

0:22:50 Cian – Helmet when bouldering

0:25:20 Matthew – When to go for send attempts

0:31:00 Brian – Brushing ethics

0:36:15 Anthony – Crag dog etiquette

Dr. Juliana Merighi is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist, and a Board Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. She offers a pelvic physical therapy and orthopedic physical therapy based in Golden, Colorado and remotely as well. On this episode of the podcast, we cover everything at the intersection of climbing, pregnancy, and pelvic floor health.

Citations:

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10831648/ (diastasis and core function)

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 

Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing

00:01:02 Anthony - Managing fatigue / autoregulation with self-coaching

00:05:49 Josh - Body recomp

00:09:08 Greg - How to progress on the Moonboard

00:11:55 Instagram - Questions about boulder development

00:17:08 Marcel - V10-12 compression demands analysis

00:25:36 Angel - Deadlift alternatives 

00:28:25 Jantina - Why don't pros wear helmets?

00:33:31 Cian - Strategies I employed on my bouldering trip with an infant

Rocco Bocchicchio is one of the OG developers of Joe's Valley and has been climbing for 28 years. He has spent much of his climbing career on the road and is currently based near Joe's where he continues to develop boulders and also crafts handmade wooden climbing holds. In this episode, Rocco shares his wisdom on a huge range of topics, from personal ethics to the evolution of bouldering and aging as a climber.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 

Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing

0:03:15 Cian - What do you think of the Pro Climbing League?

0:08:20 Sam - Ethics discussions on the podcast

0:10:40 Anthony - Why can outdoor climbing be more fun than indoor climbing?

0:15:12 Anthony - Yosemite for bouldering

0:16:00 Kyle - Falling at the end of a project

0:21:20 Rask - Training with limited space

0:27:00 Jake - Limit bouldering tactics

0:31:25 Jantina - When to end a bouldering session

0:36:30 Joe - Balancing a physical job with climbing and training

0:40:35 Matthew - Redpoint vs. onsight skill