Coach Matt Pincus and I sat down and talked through 3 habits that we have formed over months or years that have led us to become better climbers. 

Link to Matt's 6-Month Coaching Package - www.trainingbeta.com/matt

Dr. Tyler Nelson came on the show to talk about common wrist injuries and how to rehab them so you can get back to climbing and training how you want to. You may remember that I had wrist surgery on my TFCC and my husband had wrist surgery for ulnar impaction syndrome, so I inject some anecdotal information into the talk, too.

Episode Details

Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about capsulitis, which is a common finger injury that climbers get. He describes what capsulitis is, how it happens, how to avoid it, and how to treat it if you have it. Find more info on Jared and this episode at trainingbeta.com/media/jared-vagy-capsulitis.

The Enneagram is a personality typing method that I’ve been super interested in for a few years now. I try to type all of my friends, my clients, and other people around me to help me understand them better and have more compassion for them. Knowing my own type has helped me have more compassion for myself and to identify areas I want to improve on in my life, in and outside of climbing.

I recently met Becca Droz of sunrise-mindset.com, who is certified as an Enneagram coach, and she’s a climbing coach and guide. She often ends up talking with her clients about what Enneagram type they are and how it shows up for them. I asked her to be on the show to talk about what each of the types looks like in people in general, and how the types show up for us as climbers. We talk in depth about all of the types’ core fears, motivations, strengths, and challenges. We talk a little more extensively about our own types (I am an 8 and she is a 7).

Jana Unterholzner has her master’s degree as a Sport and Performance Psychologist and she recently helped create an online course at unblocd.com to guide climbers through mentally recovering from injuries. I asked her to be on the show to talk about some of the tools and information she provides in that course.

In this episode, we both share some of our key experiences going through our own injuries and Jana talks about the following:

The people at unblocd.com are offering you a 30% discount on all of their programs, including the new Injury Recovery program, and their mini programs at unblocd.com using the code “TRAININGBETA30” at checkout.

In this episode I do a full mindset coaching session with Robyn Steuber, a 33-yr-old climber whose main barrier in climbing is her fear of falling and inability to try hard above her bolt. She also struggles with performance anxiety and fear of failing. So I did a complete one-hour session with her, just as I would with any climbing client, and we dissected exactly what she's afraid of and made a plan for her to start overcoming her fears. We discussed fall practice, quantitative ways for her to start learning how to try hard in general (and eventually above her bolt), and I gave her strategies for dealing with the big emotions that come with a stressful day of climbing. 

If you want to work with me on your own mental barriers in climbing, visit www.trainingbeta.com/mindset.

Dr. Katie O'Brien is a functional medicine doctor who specializes in perimenopause, and in this episode she goes into great detail about what perimenopause is and how to navigate it with hormones, supplements, nutrition, and lifestyle choices so you can continue climbing hard in your late 30's, 40's and beyond. 

This episode is not just for perimenopausal women! This is for everyone so that you, as a woman, can be sure you recognize signs and symptoms of perimenopause when they happen (and know what to do about them), and so that you, as a man, can help advocate for the women in your life. This is crucial for every woman's health and happiness. I hope you get a lot out of this conversation :)

Dr. Katie's new supplement FemmeMD - get 20% off with code friends20: https://shop.femme-md.com/

Ryan Devlin invited Neely Quinn (the host of The TrainingBeta Podcast) to be on his podcast, The Struggle Climbing Show, to talk about perfectionism in climbing. Neely talks about common symptoms of perfectionism in climbers, how it can hold people back, and how it's actually kind of a super power. She also did some coaching on Ryan to help him enjoy climbing a little bit more, instead of being so intent on constantly achieving big things in his climbing. Ryan kindly shared this recording of the interview with Neely to share on this podcast, but it was originally published on The Struggle Climbing Show, which you should definitely check out. 

In this episode I did a full nutrition session with a climber, Katelin Hollowell who was struggling with intense sugar cravings and some weight gain. I treated this episode as I would any client session and asked her a bunch of questions about her goals, her lifestyle, her training, etc., and then I looked at her diet log on the MyFitnessPal app and gave her some concrete suggestions for what to do next. I then asked her for an update about three weeks after our initial conversation and I included that at the end of the episode. 

If you want to follow along with her diet log screensharing that I did during the episode, you can watch this episode on video on youtube. If you'd like to work with me on your nutrition, I'm currently taking new clients and would love to help you! 

I also mentioned in the podcast that I created another podcast! It's completely off the topic of climbing and it's called The Spelling Bee Podcast, where I quiz you on the spelling of 10 challenging words each week and teach you about the origins of the words. You can find it wherever you get your podcasts :) 

Kat Lumby is a Sport and Exercise Psychologist in Training (SEPiT) out of Wales, UK who works with all kinds of athletes, especially climbers and surfers. She has been a climbing coach for many years and has been able to take her skills to the next level with her SEPiT education. In this episode she talks about the specific kind of therapy she uses with athletes to deal with fear (and other barriers to performance). It’s called Rational Emotion Behavioral Therapy (REBT), and she will literally take you through the “ABC’s” of this modality.

She also does a quick therapy session with me during the interview where we talk about my fear of falling. We come to some pretty great insights, which I’ve been using ever since in my climbing sessions. We also talk about some research she did on climbers and how you can put this kind of concrete thinking to use in your own climbing.

You can work with Kat Lumby as your coach or your sport psychologist at labyrinthclimbing.co.uk.