The Testpiece Podcast

The Testpiece Podcast episodes:

• 05.20.2024

  #99 Nina Williams — Off Route While Free Soloing, The Ultimate Confidence, Being a Professional on Instagram, and The Medium Is The Message

  Send us a Text Message.Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing.In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while...

  
• 05.13.2024

  #98 T&J — Your Heroes Are Human, 2 Traits The BEST Climbers Have, Honnold Says The Quiet Thing Out Loud, and Tim Tells Josh His Biggest Mistake

  Send us a Text Message.Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that...

  
• 05.06.2024

  #97 Davin Bagdonas — Alpine Fusion, Grizzly Bears, Developing 1000’s of Climbs World Wide, Chasing The Dragon, and The Call To Adventure

  Send us a Text Message.Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go...

  
• 04.29.2024

  #96 T&J — Battling Mid-Send Doubts, Incredibly Hard Sends, New Shoe Tech, Update Your System By Shutting Up, Don’t Talk Sh!t, and Josh Talk’s Sh!t

  Send us a Text Message.You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. But the truth is,...

  
• 04.22.2024

  #95 Palmer Larsen — The Master Coach, Adaptability and Autonomy, Deliberate Practice, Style Then Process, What’s Wrong In Coaching Today, and Olympic 2024 Predictions

  Send us a Text Message.Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster...

  
• 04.15.2024

  #94 T&J — How To Approach EVERY Climb, New Era Of Climbing Media, Double Clutching Outside, New Patreon Offering, Warm-Up Projects, Un-Campusing and Why Trying Hard Isn’t Enough

  Send us a Text Message. What is the best way to approach a climb? It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never...

  
• 04.08.2024

  #93 Allison Vest — THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD, Hangboarding Deep Dive, Comps Vs Outdoors, LeBron James’ Tip to Send V14, Not Lying to Yourself, Creating FLOAT and Her Secret Training PDF (only

  Send us a Text Message.Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20%...

  
• 04.01.2024

  #92 T&J — Climbing At Your Limit, Make It Right USAC, Rants Continue, Gym Field Trips, and The Simplest Effective Training Routine

  Send us a Text Message.Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there...

  
• 03.25.2024

  #91 Jimmy Webb — Adventure and Development, How Climbers Go From Good To Great, Southern Style, World’s Greatest Flasher, The New Generation, and The Hardest Moves In The World

  Send us a Text Message.That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb!Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well.Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic...

  
• 03.18.2024

  #90 T&J — “Strength Forgets”, The Process SA, Team Trials Trouble, Binding Your Feet, Moonboard Rant, and Get Injured To Get Better Technique?!

  Send us a Text Message.The topics are in the title! A big focus on what Tim is “re-learning” as he comes back from his serious knee injury.SHOW NOTES:Team Trials Instagram Post by RyanPaul Robinson on Hueco Rock RodeoNathaniel Flashing ScarfaceSupport...

  
• 03.11.2024

  #89 Martin Keller — 8C+ at 45+, How To Gain Limit Strength, How To Project, Naysayers, Avoiding Injury, and The Big Difference Between Indoors and Outdoors

  Send us a Text Message.Martin Keller is one of the few people to boulder 8C+ / V16... But what's really incredible is he just did it right before he turned 46 years old!Martin is an incredible climber, coach, and teacher....

  
• 03.04.2024

  #88 T&J — Busting Plateau’s, How To Reclaim A Peak, Get Your Own Felipe [Hoo], ROTSW Still V17, and Sending The MoonBoard Proj

  Send us a Text Message. Tim’s back at it and with a big smile. Hear how he’s been returning to his peak strength after injury. Tim also talks about how he coaches clients through plateaus. Big shout outs to the...

  
• 02.26.2024

  #87 Matty Hong — Big Falls & Big Fish [9a 50m DWS], Photography 101, What Makes Sharma Special and Lessons From Biographie [World’s First 9a+]

  Send us a Text Message.Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at ~20m / 60ft!Matty was out there filming for the...

  
• 02.19.2024

  #86 T&J — PED’s, Breaking Down A Crux, Climbing Like A 6 Year-Old Girl, Injury Prevention, and BTS On A Moonboard Session

  Send us a Text Message.Drugs, cruxes, moonboarding, injuries, making climbs your b*tch... This one's got it all! Tune in for tons of pro-tips that will help you climb better today, and set yourself up for the long term success that...

  
• 02.12.2024

  #85 Keenan Takahashi — Higher Harder Better, ANTIGRAV, The Best Lines In The World, Mentorship, Manifesting More, and The Mustache Turns 10

  Send us a Text Message.The man, the myth, the Mustache — Keenan Takahashi!Keenan shares his unique approach to climbing. He seeks out the best lines in the world and then uses that as fuel to transform his body and mind...

  
• 02.05.2024

  #84 T&J — Hard Hard, New New, Sessioning With The BEST, USAC Controversy, and Switching To Moonboard 2024

  Send us a Text Message. 2024 is off the a bang with incredibly hard bouldering FA’s happening non-stop. Is this because USAC caused one of the strongest crews in the world to stop training for the Olympics and start crushing...

  
• 01.29.2024

  #83 Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [~V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro

  Send us a Text Message.Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean...

  
• 01.22.2024

  #82 T&J — Negative Thoughts -> Words -> Actions, Type 2 Fun, Achieving Your Potential, Grades vs Belts, and ‘Make Climbing Dangerous Again’

  Send us a Text Message.Tim shares a common problem that holds people back that he sees in even some of the top athletes he coaches. They jokingly call it "Vomit Mouth".Learn about what this is and how you can make...

  
• 01.15.2024

  #81 Carlo Traversi — The Dark Side V16 FA, Using Wet Chalk, Pushing Not Pulling, The Grade Debate, and What He Learned From Yosemite Testpiece’s

  Send us a Text Message.Carlo Traversi is back to tell us about his recent FA of The Dark Side V16 (suggested grade) in Yosemite. Josh thinks this FA will go down in the history books as THE testpiece of our...

  
• 01.08.2024

  #80: T&J — Always Be Hungry, Good Sessions Only, Stop Lying, You Suck, Fueled by Failure, and Tim Joins A Normie Gym

  Send us a Text Message.Happy New Year, my dude.Tim and Josh get meta about how to have the best 2024 possible by asking the question — why can’t all sessions be good ones?SHOW NOTES:Mastery by Robert GreeneAtomic Habits by James...

  
• 01.01.2024

  #79: West Coast Pimps — Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher, Sharma’s Mentor, The Origin’s of Try Hard, Early Days in Hueco and Bishop, and Lessons From Decades of High Level Bouldering

  Send us a Text Message. Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG’s. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering. Tune in to hear about the early days...

  
• 12.25.2023

  #78: T&J — Baby Rattlesnakes, F*CK! Tim Got Injured, The Demonstration of Strength, Kids Vs Adults, and Boarding As A Minor

  Send us a Text Message.F*CK! Tim busted his knee. Not the best way to spend the holidays...The main topic for this episode is what Kids do better than Adults, and what Adults do better than Kids.Tim and Josh also talk...

  
• 12.18.2023

  #77: Zach Galla — Raw Power, The Truth Behind WC Comps, The Olympic Grind, Leaving a Legacy, and The Role of Boards

  Send us a Text Message.Zach Galla has been ticking off some of the hardest boulders in America while simultaneously competing at the highest level. He’s always vying for the podium in any US competition and has spent time on the...

  
• 12.11.2023

  #76: T&J — How Technical is Board Climbing? Committing vs Learning, Being the Conductor, Lead Domino, and One Arm Pull-Ups

  Send us a Text Message.Why do we call board climbing “not technical”? What does this really mean?Board climbing wasn’t the planned topic of the day, but once Tim and Josh get talking about boards they have a hard time stopping!Then...

  
• 12.04.2023

  #75: Jesse Grupper — Neck Tats, Paris 2024, Big Goals Little Steps, Mega-Volume, Sport Climbing Tips, Cyborgs and Optimism as a Tool

  Send us a Text Message.Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men’s USA Olympic team!This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an...

  
• 11.27.2023

  #74: T&J — Board Wars, Board Lords, Boards Adored, Spray vs Standardized, Wood vs Plastic, Bad Apps, Flo Flows Floatin, and If There Could Only Be ONE

  Send us a Text Message.Which board is best?! Tim and Josh disagree... but not for the reason you might expect.Spray Wall or Standardized Wall? Wood holds or plastic? What angle? Tim and Josh love board climbing and we know you...

  
• 11.20.2023

  #73: Ethan Salvo — Don’t Try Hard, What Makes Squamish Special, V15 in Squamish vs CO, What’s Next In Squamish Bouldering, and Being On Team ANTIGRAV

  Send us a Text Message.“Motherf*cking Squamish beta, don’t try hard!” — Nalle HukkataivalSquamish is having a renaissance and Ethan Salvo is part of the team of young guns making it happen. Him and his crew are repeating the hardest boulders...

  
• 11.13.2023

  #72: T&J — Smoking Sharma's Joint, Outdoor Season Prep, Pro Problems, Small Holds Small Feet, Skin Smarts, Rituals and Music To Get You Psyched

  Send us a Text Message.How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night?Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey’s viral post about his...

  
• 11.06.2023

  #71: Roman Yalowitz — Crowbars and Glue, Breaking The BEST [& Josh’s Heart], Tahoe’s Golden Era, Development Ethics and BTS, and Learning From a World Class Crew

  Send us a Text Message. Roman Yalowitz is here and he’s going to break your projects and crush your dreams, just like he did to Josh

  
• 10.30.2023

  #70: T&J — The Best Tasting Boulders, Bad/Good/Great Routesetting, “Cheating”, V16 Downgrades, You Are What You Climb, What To Do When Your Gym Setting Sucks and Past Guest Reflections [Andy Lamb]

  Send us a Text Message.The routesetting at your gym is the one of the main ingredients of getting you better at climbing.Does your gym have bad, good, or great routesetting? Do you even know the difference? What do you do...

  
• 10.23.2023

  #69: Andy Lamb — Banned by 8a.nu, Strong Siblings, ‘Accidentally’ Climbing V16s, Boards vs Outdoors, The Best Project on the West Coast, and Why Being a Pro Won’t Help

  Send us a Text Message.Andy Lamb has climbed multiple V16’s, flashed multiple V13’s, and placed as high as 3rd in Bouldering Nationals. But you’ve probably never heard of him because he’s not a professional climber, his Instagram is rarely updated,...

  
• 10.16.2023

  #68: T&J — Soft Climbs Hard Tries, Flashing Spectre, Moonboard Pros, Old Crew vs Young Crew, 1st Try Tactics, Flashing Ethics and Past Guest Reflections [Katie Lamb]

  Send us a Text Message.First go best go!Tim and Josh talk about flashing as a specific form of climbing. What it shows about the grade of a climb, what it shows about the climber, how to get better at flashing,...

  
• 10.09.2023

  #67: Katie Lamb — V16 FFA, V16 FSA(?), Projects > Quick Ticks, Making Your Attempts Count, Visualization, Good Boulders Only, Pro-Level Tactics, and What Actually Makes Your Fingers Stronger

  Send us a Text Message.History has been made — Katie Lamb is officially the first woman in the world to climb V16, Box Therapy! Katie is an absolute master of the mental game for high level climbing. She treated us...

  
• 10.02.2023

  #66: T&J — “My Wife Says Your Setting Sucks”, Contradictory Training Advice / Hype, Don’t Major In The Minors, Morpho Climbs, Sessioning with “The Strong Crew”, Yosemite Testpiece’s, Doing a V8 vs Cli

  Send us a Text Message.Tim and Josh chat about Yosemite bouldering, gym climbing, bad setting, and the hard truth that just because you’ve climbed V8, doesn’t mean you’re a V8 climber.Then Tim and Josh answer some of the burning questions...

  
• 09.25.2023

  #65: Mike Heinstein — $200M in Advice, What’s Next in Climbing Gyms, Lessons from Europe, The Best Model for Climbers, Chains vs Communities, The Value of Routesetting, Opening Your Own Gym, Learning

  Send us a Text Message.When Mike Heinstein speaks about the climbing world, we listen. That’s because Mike is an extremely successful entrepreneur with more experience in business than perhaps anyone in climbing

  
• 09.18.2023

  #64: Intention — When There’s No Time or Psyche, Doing THE Thing, Low Hanging Fruit, Plan A/B/C…F, Lack of Time vs Energy, Low Psyche Workouts, and Past Guest Reflections [Nathaniel Coleman]

  Send us a Text Message.How do you fit it all in when you are busy? How do you decide what is important and what isn’t? What if you show up feeling like crap?This podcast is all about how to deal...

  
• 09.11.2023

  #63: Nathaniel Coleman — Elite Mental Game, Why He’s Not Competing, Twitch Streaming, Proper Excitement Levels, Intuition vs Logical Analysis, WC Commentary, Future Goals and [of course] Kendama

  Send us a Text Message.Holy sh!t folks, this one was special. Nathaniel Coleman went deep on this pod in a way he hasn’t before elsewhere.He's an Olympic Silver Medalist, a 3x National Bouldering Champion (in a row!), and he FA'd...

  
• 09.04.2023

  #62: You're Training Wrong — The North Star, Inspiration from Japan, The Fundamental Question, #Training, Learning How To Learn, Curling Your Way Past V4, Squatting Your Way to V14 and Past Guest Refl

  Send us a Text Message.You're Training Wrong, my dude.Maybe... In this podcast, Tim and Josh ask the question "Are we thinking about training all wrong?"This topic goes into the current state of "#Training", and figuring out how to answer The...

  
• 08.28.2023

  #61: Eric Jerome — Quest For the BEST, The Top 100 Boulders, The Origin of Star Ratings, 6 Attributes of Quality, Focusing on Quality, and The Story Behind the Current #1 Best Boulder in the USA

  Send us a Text Message.Eric Jerome has multiple V15 FA’, he is a prolific developer, and he works in the climbing industry at KAYA. But what made us want to talk to Eric on this podcast was his pursuit of...

  
• 08.21.2023

  #60: Conquering Cruxes — Sequencing Macro to the Micro, Infinite Beta Layers, V15 @ 15, Pro Climber Volume, Food Safety Gloves, and Past Guest Reflections [Will Anglin]

  Send us a Text Message.Sequencing is one of the core abilities we must develop as climbers. It starts with the macro, but if you want to really solve that crux you have to go into the micro details. But learning...

  
• 08.14.2023

  #59: Will Anglin — Tension Founder, Training With the BEST in the World, A Student/Master of The Craft, Strength Metrics vs Sending Reality, Infinite Variables, and Being Consumed by Something You Lov

  Send us a Text Message.An absolutely EPIC podcast with Will Anglin, one of the founder’s of Tension Climbing. Other than creating the coolest climbing brand that every “climber's climber” love, Will has coached for years, smashes V14, and dove deeper...

  
• 08.07.2023

  #58: Boards > Gym? — Why Boards?, F*CK! Josh Got Hurt, Mallorca Dreamin’, Classroom Review, Reducing Variables, and Reflections on Tim’s Favorite Episode [Jason Kehl]

  Send us a Text Message.Lot’s of psyche but also some bad news on this one… You can’t miss Tim’s reflections on his “favorite episode” with Jason Kehl! Tim and Josh discuss some of the questions that were brought up in...

  
• 07.31.2023

  #57: Jason Kehl — Evilution FA, Mutate Your Body, When Climbs Take Your Breath Away, Creating Experiences of ‘Awe’, Why Hueco is Special, “Real Climbing”, Becoming Obsessed, and SO Much More

  Send us a Text Message.This was a dream come true for Josh — hearing straight from Jason Kehl himself about the FA of Evilution!But wait, there’s more. Jason’s impact within the climbing world is second to none. You’ve either climbed...

  
• 07.24.2023

  #56: MAXIMIZE — Dealing with Constraints, Falling in Love, 2016 Moonboarding, Tim’s Big Move, Goals and How to Actually Train for Them, Bucket List Climbs, and Fitzgerald Reflections

  Send us a Text Message.Tim and Josh are extra psyched on climbing right now. They share what’s been going on in their training and the goals they’ve set for themselves. They also share some highlights and lessons learned from the...

  
• 07.17.2023

  #55: David Fitzgerald — Technique and Strength on Small Holds, Getting Granular, The Tahoe Scene, Training Minutiae, and Editing “A Little Life”

  Send us a Text Message.David Fitzgerald is “one of the most underrated climbers out there” per Jimmy Webb. If that doesn’t make you hit play immediately, keep reading because there’s more…On top of being a v15 climber (v16 soon!) with...

  
• 07.10.2023

  #54: World Cup '23 [Spoilers!] — Why This Season Was So Good, New Amazing Talent, Bouldering Results, Venue Vibes, and Why it’s like F1

  Send us a Text Message.The ’23 Boulder WC season is over and it was a banger! Even if comps aren’t your thing we all have a ton to learn from watching the best of the best battle it out. This...

  
• 07.03.2023

  #53: Jon Cardwell — 5.15 Sport Climbing, Busting Plateaus and Structured Training, Dirtbagging in Europe, Advice for Young Pro’s, Anaerobic vs. Aerobic, and The Best Climbing Areas in the World

  Send us a Text Message.Jon Cardwell is one of the top sport climbers in the world with multiple 5.15’s sends under his belt. Oh ya, and the 3rd ascent of a legendary V15 you might have heard of, “The Game”....

  
• 06.26.2023

  #52: No Coach? No Problem — How to Self Analyze, Learn How to Answer the Question “Why?”, Using Video for Success, What your Friends Know (or DON’T)

  Send us a Text Message.Most of the time we don’t have a coach sitting behind us giving feedback. So what do you when you are by yourself and stuck? How do you do learn to coach yourself when no one...

  
• 06.19.2023

  #51: Jamie Emerson — The ‘Sheriff’, Defining Boulders, What Elite Climbers have in Common, Subjectivity in Grading, Technique vs Smoothness, Sending After 100 Days, Training your Creativity, and Devel

  Send us a Text Message.You care about climbing. I care about climbing. And so does Jamie Emerson. Because Jamie cares so much he is willing to dive into the minutiae to help us define our sport. The How and the...

  
• 06.12.2023

  #50: The Best Climbing Gym in the World? — Japanese Setting, ‘Black’ Tape, B-Pump, and Reflections on the ‘Villain’

  Send us a Text Message. Is B-Pumo Ogikubo the best climbing gym is the world? Japan has created some of the strongest climbers in the world, especially in the competition scene, and Tim wanted to know how they did...