After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod.

In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• Is V17 or 5.15d harder?
• Is Duality Of Man chipped?
• Will Sean ever compete again?
• Why has no one repeated any of the proposed 15d’s?

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holds
• How is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old?
• What makes a benchmark a benchmark?
• Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episode
• The thing people don’t realize about climbing content

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One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back!

Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength?
• Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers?
• When to consider surgery

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefits
• The history and future of rubber technology for shoes

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Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kit
• The look of the Decoy Board
• The pros and cons of every training board
• Dan’s favorite holds — outdoors and indoors

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Noah’s biggest lesson from his injury
• What are the defining characteristics of the British board style?
• How to address elitism in the climbing community and between climbing disciplines
• When to use a standardized board over a spray wall

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Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear.

He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of improving by climbing as much volume as he can without sacrificing difficulty.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• A look into Connor’s approach to training
• What makes him so strong on jams and locks?
• Connor’s bouldering aspirations
• Connor and the TB2

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• What’s the best way to approach solo night climbing?
• More crazy skincare techniques from Will
• Is Font or Yosemite more technical?

SHOW NOTES:

Duality of Man (5.15d): https://www.instagram.com/p/DT-zNfBibXI/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Drifter's Escape (5.15a Trad): https://www.instagram.com/p/DUqlp18j6vL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Nate Williams on ROTSW: https://www.instagram.com/p/DUMf_aCgdpd/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

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Adam Shahar is back on the pod after the best year any climber could ask for. He’s been crushing hard boulders in Bishop, and Yosemite, and just climbed his first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker. He also talks about his recent banger V13 FA in the Valley, and his single-move Northeast megaproject.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• Adam’s favorite crags in the Northeast
• Other projects Adam’s eyeing
• What motivates you as a climber?
• Why are there so many strong crimpers in the Northeast?

SHOW NOTES:

“La Dolce Vita” V13 FA: https://www.instagram.com/p/DT6XK3Zksaj/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==/

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension Climbing, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Gamification of boards pro’s and con’s?
• Best ways to do Leaderboards?
• What separates Quinn from the actual Board Lords?

SHOW NOTES:

ROQ Climbing Gym: https://www.roqclimbing.com/

8B On A Moonboard?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4hR75avQkU

Wheel Rock “Crimpiest Board”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ggh3uhdTVm8

“ursula” V6 TB2 Spray by Alex Johnson

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