Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode!

Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time, a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it shift your perspective on climbing?
• Biggest Moments for Climbing in 2025? Predictions for 2026?
• Would you be willing to change your proposed grade of Mandala Sit to V14?

SHOW NOTES:

• timkangcoaching.com
• Focus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim Kang

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board Climbing
• Most Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)
• Everyone's Favorite and Least Favorite TB2 Holds

SHOW NOTES:

StoneLine Podcast w/ Ben Moon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2W8P-tKM40

Quantum Board Session w/ Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi: https://youtu.be/j-PMLkanWCQ?si=MdNKzok20A6IBPeD

Board Lords #9: https://youtu.be/xJcj99-_UVw?si=oiUbUzWUTXvFyAOL

Lumo board: https://www.lumoclimbing.com/

Shiny Wall: https://shinywall.com/en/standard-max-full/

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This is a re-release of a previous episode with Sean Bailey. It was an absolute banger then, and it is today. Sean's been on a tear recently with his send of AOTB [V17], opening a new gym in Tokyo, and theres rumors of even more hard sending. Because of this, we thought it was a great time to bring this one back.

We're on holiday this week, but we'll be back to normal starting next week. Happy holidays and new year everyone!

Previous description, as originally aired Jan 29th, 2024.

Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. 

• Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!
• How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.
• He shares about what WC’s were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours! 
• His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.
• What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.
• Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don’t miss this part.

Absolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!

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Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community.

GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Is there plans to continue to expand GP81? More gyms? More YTC’s? Can you do that while still being ‘anti-mega’?
• How you deal with serious issues from kids, like eating disorders, or serious anxiety around competition or falling?

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk.
• Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits and the secret glue he uses for everything skin related.

Links to things mentioned:

• Ethan Salvo on Lucid Dreaming (V15): https://www.instagram.com/p/DR8AjooE_R8/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
• Ben Kim on Lucid Dreaming: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRszUg_jyvi/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
• Pietro Vidi: https://www.instagram.com/pie.vidi/
• Mimic Holds: https://www.mimicholds.com/
• Absolute Climbing: https://www.absoluteclimbing.com/
• Chris Deuto and Ben Sotero do Cerro Torre: https://www.instagram.com/p/DR4mu_TDnLU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
• Bryce Viola V15 FA: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRN02KnDEIt/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
• Chaehyun Seo’s Oliana Trip: https://www.instagram.com/chaehyun.s/p/DRlCj1oEqyd/
• Adam Ondra Flashing V15: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wk4aKdXC9g

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Annie Sanders is the first American woman to win World Cups in both Bouldering and Lead. And she’s only 18 so she’s just getting started!

Hear about Annie’s breakout season and what’s in store for her future!

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• Who are your favorite competitors to watch and why?
• How do you deal with pressure in ISO before climbing?
• Which round has the hardest grades, Qualis / Semis / Finals?

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.

Board Climbs Mentioned:

• “Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy
• “All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Brian Squire
• “I Kneed You” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Michael Rosato
• “One Leg Vet” V9 @40 on the TB2 Spray, by Joshua Horsley

Media Mentioned:

• Sisu Project Video by Tension Climbing
• Burden Of Dreams Video by Tension Climbing
• “what it’s like to train on the world’s most legendary board” by Wheel Rock
• “Spray Wall Series: Episode 13 - Herm Feissner's Home Wall” by Tension Climbing

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• What are some off-the-wall exercises to get better at board climbing?
• What is the best angle for a non-adjustable home wall?

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BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% off your first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’.

‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy!

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

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Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space. 

Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last decade for everyone. Here is a link to get a Lifetime discount: https://plan.latticetraining.com/sign-up

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• Do you ever see people that perform significantly better than their testing metrics suggest? What is their ‘secret sauce’?
• Is it important to be a good climber if you want to be a good coach?
• How would you coach Will Bosi if decided that he wanted to compete in the 2028 Olympics?

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a different pair for training? And more…
• What does and does not factor into a grade? Approach? Morphology? Risk? Condition? And how FA’s decide to grade based on these factors.

UPDATE / CORRECTION: A CLIMBER WAS NOT SHOT AND KILLED BY A HUNTER IN THE SE. IT WAS A NON CLIMBER WHO WAS TRAGICALLY SHOT. MORE INFO HERE: https://bucks.crimewatchpa.com/da/29567/post/bucks-county-hunter-pleads-guilty-sentenced-7-20-years-killing-jason-kutt-nockamixon

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Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE