The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

October 26 #201 Ethan Pringle — The Level Of Difficulty In Pro Climbing, Why Beta Refinement Never Ends, and What Holds Back Most Climbers?
Ethan Pringle needs no introduction. He’s been a pro climber for decades, sent some of the world’s most iconic highballs and routes, and — most importantly — appeared on episode 19 of The Testpiece Podcast.

Today, in his long awaited return to the pod, he and Josh discuss the importance of trying hard, the things that prevent climbers from reaching their potential, and how insane the strength of professional climbers has become.

*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Ethan’s favorite boulders and routes
- Ethan’s favorite climbing discipline
- Moving to South Africa and what he misses about California

SHOW NOTES:
Get coached by Ethan: https://ethanpringlecoaching.com/

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1 hr 40 min
October 19 Board Talk #17 with Matthew Mendes — The World’s Strongest Fingers, The Death Of Spray Walls, and Climbing V11 In Under A Year
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Mendes, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.

*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Matt’s craziest feats of strength
- The best MoonBoard set
- The best standardized boards

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Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 13 min
October 12 #200 Gio Placci — How To Never Stop Improving, The Problem With Onsights, and Training With The World’s Strongest Climbers
Giovanni Placci keeps getting better. Despite a relatively late start to his climbing career, he’s managed to flash 9a, compete in world cups, and become a regular training partner of Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert.
Today, he and Josh sit down to discuss his unique career, his absurd training volume, and his current project, La Rage D’Adam 9b+/5.15c.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- The secret to Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert’s training
- Will Jakob send DNA?

SHOW NOTES:
Gio's YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@gio.placci

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1 hr 18 min
October 05 Good Temps #18 — Climbing In Baseball Stadiums, Ondra On Exodia V18, and The Flatanger Double Clutch
This week’s episode ran a bit shorter than usual. To make it up to you, we’re including the Patreon bonus section for free!
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Will Anglin, Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

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Visit our podcast page: HERE
55 min
September 28 #199 Elias Iagnemma — The World's Hardest Boulder, Proposing A New Grade, and What Comes After Sending V18?
Last November, after four years of projecting, Elias Iagnemma sent Exodia, and proposed the world’s first ever V18/9A+. The boulder has remained somewhat mysterious since then, with limited footage of it and little information on who has been trying it.
Today, in Elias’s first English podcast appearance, he answers all the questions about Exodia that the climbing world has been asking for the past year.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Sending every MoonBoard benchmark
- Elias’s approach to learning new movements and refining beta
- The importance of the name, “Exodia”

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Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 18 min
September 21 Board Talk #16 with Matt Fultz — The Benchmarking Process, The Brand New Core Board, and The “Harder” Version Of Hypnotized Minds
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Matt Fultz, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.

SHOW NOTES
Get Training Plans From Matt - https://otgstrength.com/

*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- How to be comfortable on small box climbs as a bigger climber
- Does climbing skill transfer to Beyblade?

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Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 16 min
September 14 #198 Austin Hoyt — Maintaining Progression At Your Limit, The Northeast’s V18, and What Separates The Younger Generation Of Climbers
Austin Hoyt joins us every month for Good Temps, but after yet another season of levelling up, we had to bring him on the show to spotlight him as a guest.
In this episode, Austin breaks down some of his recent sends, including Creature From The Black Lagoon V16, and tells us about his daunting V18 project.

*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- How Austin's approach to climbing has evolved with his progress
- How to set easy and complex boulders

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Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 24 min
September 07 Good Temps #17 — The Fastest 9b+ Send Ever, The Evolution Of Rocklands, and Is It Okay To Watch A Stranger’s Session?
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Allison Vest, Carlo Traversi, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- The world’s best easy and moderate boulders

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 21 min
August 31 #197 WC Routesetter’s Roundtable — The Future of Routesetting, How Hard Are World Cups, and Fixing The Scoring System
Ryan Sewell and Mike Bockino are two of the best routesetters in the world. Together they have almost 50 years of routesetting experience for countless USA Climbing events and World Cups.
Today, they join Josh and Carlo to discuss the level of international events and the current direction of competition routesetting. They also debate Josh and Carlo's controversial opinions on the WC scoring system from Good Temps #16.
*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- Is crimping bolt holds and behind volumes cheating?
- How important is getting a route setting certification

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Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 46 min
August 24 Board Talk #15 with Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora — Behind The Scenes Of Board Lords 10, 3 Months On The 16x12 TB2, and Japanese Board Lords
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.

*Patreon Bonus Content (join https://www.patreon.com/testpiece for extended cut):*
- How you can attend Board Lords
- Was there a 3rd climb prepared for Bord Lords 10?
- Michael’s favorite Tool song
- Quinn’s favorite LCD soundsystem song

SHOW NOTES:
Board Lords 10 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiDRMWvjTD0
TensionBoardClub Vol. 1 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6f4QFSdhsI

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 17 min