Erik is an accomplished speed climber from Spain! In this episode, we’ll learn about how politics destroyed climbing in Venezuela, what it was like starting over with life and training in Spain, injuries in speed climbing, and we’ll get his thoughts on other speed climbing formats like relays and yearly route changes. Hear from speed climbing’s most positive athlete!

Guest links:

Erik’s Instagram

Reference links:

Climb Gurus - Clothing Brand!

Old Venezuelan IFSC Profile

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:11 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:59 - Training at a special facility

4:12 - How he started climbing and competing

11:00 - IFSC athlete page mixup

14:46 - Moving from Venezuela to Spain

16:07 - Why he moved away from Venezuela

24:06 - Venezuela's PREVIOUS climbing dominance

31:07 - Starting over in Spain

36:54 - The differences in speed training

40:10 - Bad speed climbing habits to break

46:40 - Reflecting on OQS and not making the Olympics

54:37 - Climbing goals for 2025 season

57:26 - Being an older climber

59:37 - Knowing when to give up

1:02:27 - Speed climbing injuries?!

1:07:32 - Life outside of speed climbing

1:13:54 - Discord Q: What is your opinion on the latest changes in FEDME particularly the firing of David Macia from the Olympics selection for 2028?

1:19:57 - Discord Q: Thoughts on relays, changing the route yearly, etc?

1:22:09 - IG Q: Why did you run the Chinese top the nobody else was?

1:25:30 - IG Q: Advice for people starting out speed climbing?

1:26:23 - IG Q: How was training in Indonesia?

1:29:52 - Words of wisdom + where to find Erik

So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.

Guest links:

Shauna’s Instagram

Reference links:

Foxy Holds

Women’s Climbing Symposium

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2;23 - Running climbing clinics

6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber

9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics

14:39 - How she started climbing + competing

17:59 - Team GB then vs now

19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game

28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals

34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing

37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience

43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"

48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?

50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"

53:28 - Best comp memories

58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant

1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise?

1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?

1:20:44 - Current goals: Outdoors and more kids??

1:25:16 - DISCORD Q: Thoughts on climbing sponsorships and Adidas sponsorship ending

1:31:36 - DISCORD Q: Do you still try to prioritize being well-rounded now that you're no longer a comp climber?

1:34:25 - DISCORD Q: Your most controversial climbing opinion?

1:37:07 - Words of wisdom + where to find Shauna

Chaz is a blind paraclimber from team Canada and is in the B3 category, meaning he has about 10% of his sight left. What’s crazy is that he didn’t start climbing until after he lost his vision! In this episode, we’ll learn about his rocky journey losing his vision at 32 years old and struggling with alcoholism, how to lead belay blind, and hear some surprising stories about run-ins with famous climbers that he doesn’t know because he can’t “watch” climbing content.

Guest links:

Chaz’s Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:58 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2;27 - Intro/healing from surgery

7:49 - Chaz's impairment and how he started climbing

13:16 - Losing sight later in life

26:16 - Lead belaying blind

36:21 - Visually impaired climbing without a caller

38:07 - First time competition climbing...getting dumped...bro code broken?!

43:25 - Climbing + calling with Alannah Yip

46:37 - Accidental run-ins with the most famous comp climbers

52:38 - Lack of accessibility with climbing content

57:17 - Feeling unsafe on the wall

1:03:24 - Hiding his disability

1:07:37 - 2028 Paralympics

1:14:54 - Climbing blindfolded

1:18:02 - Me complaining about outdoor climbing + why he loves outdoor climbing

1:23:42 - Playing blind hockey

1:25:59 - More of me complaining about outdoor climbing + what is real climbing

1:28:57 - Blind ice climbing

1:31:12 - Being an inspiration for his son

1:33:47 - Blind hockey show and tell

1:41:46 - IG Q: How long does it take to get in sync with your caller?

1:42:54 - IG Q: Does speed climbing work well for blind people?

1:49:26 - DISCORD Q: Would paraclimbers want to compete in bouldering?

1:55:25 - Words of wisdom + where to find Chaz

Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we’ll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.

Guest links:

Tijl’s Instagram

Reference links:

Info on elections and candidates

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:16 - Climbing, coaching, and IFSC history

5:50 - Coaching the Belgian team

10:56 - How IFSC Presidency works

15:11 - Moving on from the Olympics

18:53 - Changes Tijl wants to see in the IFSC

24:43 - Increasing funding through Eurosport and routesetter education

33:25 - HOT TOPIC: Big names taking a break from world cups

38:38 - HOT TOPIC: New national federation quotas for world cups

41:38 - HOT TOPIC: RED-S Policy Implementation

48:20 - HOT TOPIC: NEOM Games

50:15 - DISCORD Q: What changes do you think we'll see to the World Cup format?

56:40 - DISCORD Q: Plastic vs rock preference?

1:00:47 - Words of wisdom + where to find Tijl

Gregor was a boulder & lead climber from team Slovenia but he recently retired a few months ago from competitions. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the powerful Slovenian team, how he made the decision to retire and all the planning around it, what it’s like climbing with Janja, and we get to hear him geek out about holds and hold shaping.

Guest links:

Gregor’s Instagram

Reference links:

Gregor’s hold brand

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:08 - Spray wall noob questions

5:34 - Feeling competitive against his brother

10:45 - Why Slovenia is so dominant at climbing

17:13 - Slovenian team training and funding

19:36 - Slovenian young guns to watch out for

21:21 - Career highlights and traveling

25:35 - Being a picky eater on the road

27:57 - Competing with migraines

30:55 - Making the decision to retire

37:52 - How to be okay with "getting weaker"

42:14 - Setting vs competing

45:43 - IFSC setting aspirations

47:55 - What is hold shaping

52:52 - Do we really need more holds?

55:40 - IG Q: what's your creative process for designing a new hold?

1:02:23 - Hot takes on hold shaping and no tex

1:06:30 - Discord Q: How do you see World Cup routesetting changing in the next 10 years?

1:10:18 - DISCORD Q: Does hold shaping inspire your setting more or vice versa?

1:11:41 - DISCORD Q: What's it like climbing with Janja?

1:19:09 - Matt Groom trolling

1:20:44 - Final thoughts and where to find Gregor

Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I’ve interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we’ll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany.

Guest links:

Anna’s Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

3:50 - Starting climbing at 3!

8:18 - Competing in youth and Senior Circuit at the same time

12:27 - Youth setting vs senior setting

14:42 - Big performance boost in 2024

17:23 - Flashing all Innsbruck quails boulders

22:22 - Why younger climbers dominate the WC circuit

25:09 - German national team

30:04 - German military sponsorship

34:04 - 2025 season

36:19 - Finding out if the combined format will be in LA 2028

39:05 - Non-climbing hobbies + sewing!

42:23 - Outdoor projects

43:28 - IG Q: What is the hardest part of being an athlete?

49:06 - IG Q: Tips on improving arm strength

50:27 - IG Q: Where can I buy the Germany down jacket?

51:12 - IG Q: Non-climbing related goal

52:58 - IG Q: Thoughts on the minimum BMI requirement

57:29 - Outro and where to find Anna

Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.

Guest links:

Rodrigo’s Instagram

Reference links:

Brazilian Hold Brand - Crux

Night Moves - Outdoor Brazilian Climbing

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!

7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury

10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure

13:57 - Living in Australia

16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace

21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America

25:31 - Brazil climber funding

30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil

36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC

39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber

48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid

51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips

56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?

1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?

1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo

Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay.

Guest links:

“Another Setting Podcast”

Niki’s Youtube

Jake’s Youtube

Niki’s Instagram

Jake’s Instagram

Reference links:

The hold that doesn’t need to exist

Routesetting workshops through Frankenjura Academy

Dockmasters 2025 - January

Studiobloc masters 2025 - March

Quarryman

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:29 - Stretching!

5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting

10:23 - Settings trends in each country

15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms

24:54 - Lack of style in world cups

32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall

42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats

48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy

52:58 - How will setting innovate?

57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these!

1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay

1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast

1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive climbs in gyms?

1:14:53 - Discord Q: How important is hold selection in order to force a move?

1:19:27 - Discord Q: What is the "jug ladder" of parkour routes?

1:23:47 - Words of widsom + Where to find Niki and Jake

Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.

Guest links:

Website

Instagram

Reference links:

Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine

Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMed

David Barrans IFSC History

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:17 - Holidays

4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT

11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time

19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?

26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves

36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!

40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs

51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age

1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences

1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers

1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury

1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis?

1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training?

1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution

1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy

"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains, and her (thankfully far in the future) plans for retirement.

Guest links:

Instagram

Tiktok

Reference links:

Anime Recommendation

K-drama Recommendation

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:19 - MadRock Shoutout!!

2:06 - Post-season break

4:09 - Being away from home for 6 months/Switzerland coaching

9:18 - Starting out climbing with the family

12:24 - Birth order stereotypes

15:16 - Shingles in Paris

19:23 - Meeting other Olympians but not Raygun

21:13 - How Olympic finals felt compared to qualis

27:06 - Comparing Paris to Tokyo Olympics

36:12 - Being emotional on camera

38:44 - Top athletes being gone from 2024 WC season

40:17 - Making lead climbing gains

45:18 - Winning her first WC medal

51:24 - Competition schedule preference

54:59 - Brisbane Olympics and future retirement plans

57:52 - Discord Q: how do you navigate a vegan diet while traveling for comps

59:09- Weeb/koreaboo?

1:03:01 - Discord Q: Could you imagine doing a Swiss bouldering comp next year?

1:04:47 - Discord Q: Do you have any interesting experiences in Japan?

1:06:30 - Discord Q: Are Australian gyms too focused on commercial climbing?

1:09:49 - Traveling with her sister

1:11:53 - Where to find Oce