That's Not Real Climbing

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Charlie is the founder of Paradigm Climbing and he has been coaching climbing athletes from the beginner to elite level for over 17 years. In this episode, we’ll hear about a suspicious supplement sponsorship he had when he was a kid, what his world cup experience was like back in the day, why he thinks competition climbing has turned way too much into not real climbing, and of course everything coaching related.

Guest links:

Paradigm Climbing Website

Instagram

Youtube

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:18 - Insane schedule

7:02 - Getting into climbing, competing, and coaching

11:31 - Sketchy sugar daddy athlete sponsorship??

17:05 - How he would coach his younger self

22:10 - Strengths and weaknesses

26:57 - His experience competing at world cups

36:14 - Coaching goals

38:21 - How personalized does coaching need to be?

52:09 - How to learn movement

55:05 - The importance of spray wall

1:06:18 - AUDIENCE Q: How to improve as a coach?

1:08:48 - World Climbing Setting is too far gone?

1:16:58 - What the US is doing wrong with training

1:22:52 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you tell when a kid will be a v17 climber?

1:27:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Fingerboarding vs board climbing?

1:29:24 - AUDIENCE Q: How to train big dynes?

1:32:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Dream clients?

1:35:14 - Words of wisdom and where to find Charlie

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Ardch is a boulderer for the Thailand team, and he has made semis several times in World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll hear why he thinks climbing is performative in Thailand, why it’s hard to grow climbing as a spectator sport, and we’ll talk about where we draw the line on setting that is too trendy. Hope you’re ready for some hot takes and strong opinions in this one!

Guest links:

Ardch's Instagram

Reference links:

PCL Bouldering Project Qualifiers

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:16 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:07 - Winning Seattle Boulderfest + PCL

9:31 - Moving to the US, getting into climbing

15:47 - Performative climbing in Thailand?

25:49 - Lack of World Climbing level Thai climbers

33:15 - Should it become a D1 sport in the USA?

39:13 - How to grow climbing

47:39 - Goodbye dirtbags

51:03 - Outdoor paddle dynos

58:20 - What climbing trend goes TOO FAR?

1:03:15 - What does it take to make semis and finals in world climbing?

1:12:29 - Salt Lake City and Mental Pressure

1:15:05 - Why is the mens field so unpredictable?

1:20:43 - AUDIENCE Q: Wow factor to making finals?

1:25:42 - Glazing Sorato

1:28:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Most underdeveloped part of climbing?

1:31:27 - Words of wisdom and where to find Arch

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Bharath and Vishak are climbers from team India who now have experience at several world series events. In this episode, we’ll hear about the unique challenges they face climbing and training in India, some crazy stories about the worst bouldering nationals ever, why they think the average age for comp climbing will get older, and how they aim to grow climbing in India by routesetting and making climbing shoes.

Guest links:

Bharath's Instagram

Vishak's Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:19 - Training in Japan

7:01 - Getting into climbing and competing

15:10 - India climbing scene then vs now

16:57 - The state of setting in India

23:36 - The worst comp EVER

28:31 - Outdoor climbing in India

30:11 - What happens in World Climbing ISO

36:11 - Best tips from pro climbers

40:47 - Give Bharath some skin advice please!

44:00 - Team dynamics in ISO

47:21 - Crazy coaching practices in India

52:34 - Will comp climbing stop being so young??

1:00:54 - New school moves and coordination rock climbs?!

1:03:10 - Making climbing shoes

1:09:35 - Balancing training and setting

1:13:08 - Asia cup goal

1:17:57 - AUDIENCE Q: What do you wish you knew before you started?

1:21:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Dealing with plateaus and injury?

1:24:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Getting through tenosynovitis?

1:26:48 - AUDIENCE Q: What is your inspiration to keep going?

1:29:16 - AUDIENCE Q: Plans for a Youtube channel?

1:31:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Sneaking out of boarding school?

1:33:48 - Words of wisdom

1:39:37 - Where to find Bharath and Vishak

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Lučka is a lead climber from Slovenia who recently won bronze at the European championships and came back to the world climbing scene after undergoing cancer-removing surgery in 2025. In this episode, we’ll hear about how her cancer diagnosis affected her climbing, training, and mental health, we’ll learn about the Slovenian team, and we’ll put together a tier list for the worst things that can happen in a lead comp.

Guest links:

Lucka's Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:24 - Finger injury before European champs

5:54 - Getting into climbing and competing

11:11 - Reading and memorizing the lead route

15:38 - Ranking the worst things to happen during a lead route

20:02 - Training plan

22:11 - Thyroid cancer diagnosis + emetaphobia

31:20 - How long it took to return to climbing

35:50 - The mental effect of returning to competition

38:56 - Does the Slovenian team train with Janja?

42:53 - Dating within the team

45:50 - 2028 Olympic hopes?

47:58 - Post-climbing plans?

53:12 - Future dog plans

56:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Are you afraid of falling?

1:00:15 - AUDIENCE Q: Previous Slovenian legends?

1:01:36 - AUDIENCE Q: How many routes and what difficulty in 1 session?

1:05:53 - Where to find Lucka

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In this episode, we’ll learn about how she climbs the same lead routes all year round to train in Arizona, why she doesn’t want to move to Salt Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year, and how she went from placing 40th in world cups to making semis and finals in 1 year.

Guest links:

Ella's Instagram

Reference links:

Check out https://comp.rocks for climbing competitions near you! (Currently USA only)

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:42 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:33 - Preparing for Koper

10:36 - Starting climbing at 3

14:03 - Getting coached by her dad

20:09 - Fitness is all that matters for lead?

24:42 - Why she doesn't want to move to SLC

30:14 - Beta video before lead quails!!!

34:36 - Seeing a dyno in a lead route

35:58 - First WS finals experience

41:33 - 40th place to making finals in 1 year

44:38 - Training routine

49:52 - Ella LOVES autobelays!

57:13 - Youth climbers don't need to hang board

59:41 - A year of health issues

1:10:08 - Upcoming goals

1:13:25 - Balancing training with coaching and college

1:19:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you deal with pressure?

1:21:46 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you do fantasy climbing league?

1:22:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Would you ever go back to Schwandorf?

1:29:33 - Where to find Ella

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia who has already gotten 2 silver medals in the world series season this year! In this episode, we’ll learn about the climbing scene in Indonesia, speed climbing rituals and whether they’re actually helpful, we’ll hear this thoughts on the 4 lane and speed relay formats, and we’ll get insight into how he got so good at speed climbing after only training it consistently for 3 years.

Guest links:

Robby's Instagram

Reference links:

Robby's favorite speed moment - Sam's WR

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:37 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:28 - Getting medals in Europe

3:51 - Only been seriously speed training for 3 years?!

10:33 - Breaking plateaus

15:26 - Ritual before each speed run

21:15 - What's more important: Speed or consistency?

22:58 - What speed training looks like

28:57 - Opinion on relay format

31:40 - How team selection works

37:23 - The surprises that come with 4 lanes

39:27 - Indonesia climbing scene

45:44 - 2027 goals and lessons from Sam Watson + Zhao Yicheng

51:17 - Olympic dreams

52:15 - Hobbies and studying

53:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you handle burnout?

56:57 - AUDIENCE Q: How did you improve so fast?

59:11 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you breathe during a speed run?

1:00:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you train other sports?

1:01:30 - AUDIENCE Q: Describe your previous coach?

1:03:48 - Where to find Robby

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONSORED belayers thanks to Trango.

Guest links:

USA Belay Instagram

C Lad's Instagram

Meagan's Instagram

USA Belay YouTube

Reference links:

Wujiang 2025 Belayer Aiding Climber

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:29 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:19 - Excitement for Pan-American series

4:21 - Getting into climbing and belaying

14:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Difference between an avg vs elite belayer?

20:26 - Work that allows the flexibility for travel

22:48 - How to get into belaying at a high level

27:43 - Setting the standard for World Climbing

34:36 - ATC vs ABDs in gyms

39:06 - The belayer's unique pivotal role

43:41 - Snugroping?

45:28 - Athlete interactions

48:00 - Dual-belay system

52:44 - Is it too late to become an Olympics belayer?

56:42 - Being sponsored as belayers

1:01:54 - Why is belaying para the best?

1:08:46 - Routesetting that makes belaying harder

1:14:25 - AUDIENCE Q: What's it like to walk up to an Olympian and belay them?

1:16:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite venue to belay at?

1:18:33 - Where to find the beladies and words of wisdom

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremely hot take on “alternative” climbing moves...I had no idea that he was the infamous cartwheel boulder setter.

Guest links:

Max's Instagram

Reference links:

Bern Women's M3

CWIF Cartwheel Boulder

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:28 - Climbing, competing, setting background

7:00 - World climbing setting levels

10:44 - Bern Finals boulders got leaked

15:24 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it easier setting in a climate-controlled venue?

18:24 - What is the perfect round?

22:02 - AUDIENCE Q: What guidance does world climbing give for setters?

24:19 - Forerunning process

29:26 - Setting "unconventional" moves

34:46 - OMG!! This is the OG cartwheel guy!!

38:00 - The divergence of indoor/comp climbing from outdoors

42:34 - Zones vs tops point change

44:53 - Starting Contact Holds with Alex Waterhouse

52:55 - AUDIENCE Q: What's Alex Waterhouse up to?!

54:26 - AUDIENCE Q: Is there any consideration for the belayer when setting?

59:21 - AUDIENCE Q: Planning vs improvising problems?

1:00:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Will the Christmas Yule log comp be on this year?

1:02:29 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite member of house 51?

1:03:21 - Words of wisdom and where to find Max

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day.

Guest links:

Sam’s Youtube

Sam’s Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:26 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:17 - Reflecting on Madrid World Series

6:40 - Can you see results in ISO?

9:31 - Starting climbing at age 2

12:46 - Climbing strengths and weaknesses

16:17 - Fearlessness for new school climbing

22:05 - French team training and powering out

24:30 - French Team Selection

29:36 - Qualis is the most physical round

31:37 - "Sam Richard" as a persona

35:19 - Getting energy from the audience

38:41 - Climbing journal

43:49 - Hot take: outdoor climbing is better than indoor?

51:35 - Youngest person to climb v17?

53:08 - Climbing optimization

57:13 - Quitting climbing for running...

1:01:39 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the transition from youth to senior?

1:05:13 - AUDIENCE Q: How to hype yourself up?

1:07:05 - AUDIENCE Q: How's the bromance between you, Mejdi, and Manu?

1:10:05 - Words of widsom and where to find Sam

Got something to say to this podcast? Send a voicemail, and you might hear yourself on the next episode!

Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers.

Guest links:

Website

Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:05 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:45 - Spain trip and watching PCL

4:44 - Getting into climbing and PT

8:00 - Youth getting into competing more?

9:10 - Are youth climber overtraining?

11:28 - Outcome of growth plate fractures

16:43 - Youth Climbers very rarely get injured

21:28 - Youth climbers should not specialize in climbing

32:03 - What does arthritis look like?

37:00 - Is synovitis a sign of future arthritis?

38:55 - Injuries are actually coming from outdoor climbing....

46:32 - Max Milne's Foot Injury

49:53 - Are injury rates increasing within comp climbers?

52:53 - AUDIENCE Q: Common adult injuries breaking into the comp scene?

59:48 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you even climb with hyper mobility?

1:06:54 - Words of wisdom and where to find Andy