Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.

Guest links:

Annies’s Instagram

Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)

Reference links:

Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World Champs

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:39 - Jetlag + travels

5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family

7:09 - Static + slow climbing style

10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks??

12:08 - Timing out in lead

18:22 - 2026 goals

20:49 - Annie's training plan

24:32 - Lack of gym access

27:43 - Post-high school plans

30:22 - Outdoor climbing

33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion?

35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps?

41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance?

42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos?

43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes?

45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie

Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team Germany’s training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we’ll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we’ll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will still be in the combined format for 2028!

Guest links:

Sagi’s Instagram

Reference links:

IFSC Format Experiment Upcoming Comp

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:40 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:24 - Youth worlds + Spain travels

4:59 - Climbing + coaching with no experience!

12:02 - Becoming the German bouldering coach

19:42 - Do pros still need climbing tips??

22:41 - Team Germany's training breakdown + reaction time practice

28:19 - Comforting athletes who have a bad round

37:58 - DEBUNKING LA 2028 qualification process

44:07 - The issue with bouldering points system

47:32 - HOT TAKE: Bouldering is no longer real climbing

54:53 - New generation of climbing

1:02:55 - German team challenges

1:09:42 - Price of hosting world cups

1:11:13 - Bouldering needs to change

1:18:50 - USA travel nightmare

1:28:03 - IG Q: Athletes in Germany that hate the DAV?

1:32:11 - DISCORD Q: Talk through the process of an appeal

1:38:58 - DISCORD Q: What do you do in ISO?

1:40:55 - Words of wisdom + where to find Sagi

Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to make the Peruvian national team!

Guest links:

Miguel’s Instagram

Miguel’s website

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:03 - Getting into PT and climbing

4:09 - OTs vs PTs and insurance battles

7:26 - Working with youth comp climbers

9:44 - What ISO is like at youth nationals

14:38 - Massage guns? And my bro-science musings

16:43 - Injuries in kids vs adults

19:37 - The big one: growth plate injuries in kids

25:01 - When to rest vs train through an injury

27:34 - General recommendations for climbing injuries

32:45 - S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries

35:26 - Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves

42:27 - When NOT to tape

47:28 - What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall

52:53 - Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong...

59:33 - Training for Peruvian nationals

1:06:37 - DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers?

1:08:46 - DISCORD Q: What are the pillars of a strong climbing warmup?

1:12:27 - DISCORD Q: top 2 exercises for injury prevention

1:17:29 - Words of wisdom and where to find Miguel

Pete is a commentator and MC who has commentated for several world cups and North American elite competitions. In this episode, we’ll learn about the art of MCing, times he’s gotten flamed online as a commentator, and we get a lot of insight into the financials of broadcast and climbing as a sport, including the best argument I’ve heard yet for why Eurosport is a good deal. It’s clear to me in this episode that Pete is a huge proponent of growing the climbing community and his passion really shines through!

Guest links:

Pete’s Instagram

Pete’s website

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:13 - Climbing in 1 World Cup

8:15 - Deciding not to be a dirtbag climber

11:13 - The art of MCing

15:13 - Is MCing or commentary more fun?

18:58 - The price of broadcasting

21:06 - Getting yelled at for commentary

27:03 - SLC world cup v6 boulders

37:41 - How to trick top climbers with holds

39:43 - The value of non-IFSC comps

46:26 - Cost of putting together Dockmasters

51:41 - Punk Rock Masters' crazy $50k cash purse

59:52 - Are climbers cheapskates?!

1:11:37 - IG Q: Are dynamic moves a good way to make climbing more mainstream?

1:16:26 - IG Q: What do you want to be remembered for?

1:17:51 - IG Q: What's your current relationship with CEC?

1:24:49 - IG Q: What's your golf handicap?

1:29:01 - Climbers need to be promoting climbers!

1:34:55 - Closing thoughts + where to find Pete

You probably recognize Nekaia from when she recently made her first boulder world cup finals in Curitiba and her sister Sovarae podiumed at her last USA youth boulder nationals. In this episode, we get a lot of insight into their sibling dynamic as comp climbers, we’ll hear about Nekaia’s experience in Curitiba and Sovarae’s experience going through mental battles at comps, and we’ll have some fun conversation about food and Harry Potter.

Guest links:

Nekaia’s Instagram

Sovarae’s Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:35 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:18 - Nekaia's new haircut!

6:59 - Are they related to Annie Sanders?!

7:42 - How the family got into climbing

11:05 - Homeschool kids

13:52 - Sovarae used to get dragged to the climbing gym

21:11 - Jealously and competitiveness amongst each other

30:45 - How USA team selection works

33:49 - Nekaia's breakout performance in Curitiba

41:25 - Nekaia's slab strength and strength weakness

43:39 - Sovarae's finger strength and mental weakness

49:32 - Nekaia's mental advice

51:57 - World Cup traveling and eating abroad

56:32 - HOT TAKE: Losing is more important than winning

59:53 - HOT TAKE: People who say they don't like comp style climbing need to be shown how!

1:04:12 - Swimming and Harry Potter

1:10:53 - DISCORD Q: How early to start wearing in a comp shoe?

1:13:30 - IG Q: Favorite style of climb?

1:16:28 - IG Q: Outdoor rock projects?

1:18:09 - IG Q: What effect does fan interaction have on your morale?

1:22:36 - IG Q: How do the finances work?

1:25:28 - IG Q: Does Sovarae always get the middle seat?

1:28:39 - Closing thoughts + where to find Nekaia and Sovarae

If it’s not obvious, Carl is Erin McNeice’s dad and I’m so thrilled to get a parent perspective on the podcast. In this episode, we’ll learn about the family’s dedication and honest approach to building Erin’s climbing career, how much it cost to support the training and travel of an athlete, why he’s no longer allowed to watch her comps in person, and get adorable dad-anecdotes from the Olympics.

Guest links:

Carl’s Instagram

Reference links:

Erin’s Episode

Budapest Olympic Qualifier Stress

(Buzzed) Eurosport interview

Horsin Around Quest for 8C

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:19 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:06 - Returning from Innsbruck

5:44 - Carl's climbing and gymnastics background

10:47 - Getting involved in competition climbing

15:57 - When to push vs when to back off

22:43 - The cost of being a comp parent

28:32 - Sudden rise between the 2023-2024 season

33:59 - Erin's intense training schedule

38:37 - Phasing out of Erin's training routine

42:53 - Not being allowed to watch the comps in person

48:06 - The stress of watching your child compete

54:38 - Most stressful competition to watch

58:35 - The Olympics experience

1:06:13 - Thoughts on dangerous setting

1:16:55 - DISCORD Q: How does having a comp kid influence the family dynamic?

1:20:02 - DISCORD: How to avoid good results = good vibes only

1:25:31 - DISCORD Q: Do you approve shots of yourself on Erin's Youtube channel :p

1:27:41 - DISCORD Q: How does it feel to be a worse climber than your child?

1:30:49 - Words of wisdom

Ty has done it all: He’s been competition belaying, judging, and coaching for over 10 years, and he started the belay programs at USA climbing and the IFSC. In this episode, we’ll learn about all things belaying, get behind the scenes insight, and hear about how the scene has changed since the Olympics came into play, leading to some toxic parents.

Guest links:

Ty’s Instagram

Reference links:

Noah Makaiwi Interview

Reel Rock Speed Mishap @10:25

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:08 - Coaching and belaying at USA youth nationals

7:36 - Getting into volunteer judging/belaying

11:35 - Good belaying vs bad belaying

15:40 - You need to train your neck!!

18:03 - Dangerous belay practices

23:49 - The pressure of belaying at world cups

29:29 - Athletes with specific belay requests

31:54 - Athletes who are hard to belay for

34:32 - Routesetting that makes belaying hard

37:28 - Being a speed starter

43:57 - Birmingham world games 2022

47:41 - HOT TAKE: Women are better belayers than men?!

51:25 - Paraclimbing belaying

54:28 - Manual speed climbing belaying?!

57:02 - Extra considerations for para belaying

59:37 - Changes in the sport - Olympics desperation

1:04:40 - The toxic youth scene

1:09:31 - Discord Q: Do belayers get a rundown of the route from setters?

1:10:24 - DISCORD Q: Have you ever seen an athlete or coach object to a belayer?

1:11:15 - DISCORD Q: Process for removing belayers mid comp?

1:13:28 - Ice climbing belaying?!?

1:16:03 - Where to find Ty

Antonin is the graphics operator for the IFSC! In this episode, we’ll learn about why the IFSC chooses to use local production teams instead of their own production team and the difficulties that come with that, why graphics don’t show up sometimes, and we’ll hear about his thoughts on why the bouldering format is inherently broken for watching on TV.

Guest links:

Antonin’s Instagram

Reference links:

Arco Rock Master

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:08 - 5 weekends of work

5:23 - Best ISO Warm up zone

7:07 - What he does for IFSC

10:19 - The structure of IFSC broadcast

13:30 - Choosing between IFSC production or local

19:07 - What guidelines are given to local tv crews?

23:08 - Who is in charge of cinematic shot decisions?

36:43 - The difficulty showing bouldering on TV

43:05 - Considering the elimination boulder format?

46:33 - How to satisfy both climber and non-climbing audience

49:53 - Why do graphics lag behind/not show up?

54:41 - Can we have scores show on screen more often?

58:02 - Why putting up a clock is so difficult

1:02:39 - Traveling with a full camera set

1:07:47 - Dead body in SLC?!

1:12:46 - Climbing gym work

1:21:05 - Q: Do you ever rewatch comps?

1:23:34 - Q: Is it legal to stream the whole event as a spectator?

1:25:02 - Where to find Antonin and send further complaints :p

Erik is an accomplished speed climber from Spain! In this episode, we’ll learn about how politics destroyed climbing in Venezuela, what it was like starting over with life and training in Spain, injuries in speed climbing, and we’ll get his thoughts on other speed climbing formats like relays and yearly route changes. Hear from speed climbing’s most positive athlete!

Guest links:

Erik’s Instagram

Reference links:

Climb Gurus - Clothing Brand!

Old Venezuelan IFSC Profile

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:11 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:59 - Training at a special facility

4:12 - How he started climbing and competing

11:00 - IFSC athlete page mixup

14:46 - Moving from Venezuela to Spain

16:07 - Why he moved away from Venezuela

24:06 - Venezuela's PREVIOUS climbing dominance

31:07 - Starting over in Spain

36:54 - The differences in speed training

40:10 - Bad speed climbing habits to break

46:40 - Reflecting on OQS and not making the Olympics

54:37 - Climbing goals for 2025 season

57:26 - Being an older climber

59:37 - Knowing when to give up

1:02:27 - Speed climbing injuries?!

1:07:32 - Life outside of speed climbing

1:13:54 - Discord Q: What is your opinion on the latest changes in FEDME particularly the firing of David Macia from the Olympics selection for 2028?

1:19:57 - Discord Q: Thoughts on relays, changing the route yearly, etc?

1:22:09 - IG Q: Why did you run the Chinese top the nobody else was?

1:25:30 - IG Q: Advice for people starting out speed climbing?

1:26:23 - IG Q: How was training in Indonesia?

1:29:52 - Words of wisdom + where to find Erik

So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.

Guest links:

Shauna’s Instagram

Reference links:

Foxy Holds

Women’s Climbing Symposium

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2;23 - Running climbing clinics

6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber

9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics

14:39 - How she started climbing + competing

17:59 - Team GB then vs now

19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game

28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals

34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing

37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience

43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"

48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?

50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"

53:28 - Best comp memories

58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant

1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise?

1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?

1:20:44 - Current goals: Outdoors and more kids??

1:25:16 - DISCORD Q: Thoughts on climbing sponsorships and Adidas sponsorship ending

1:31:36 - DISCORD Q: Do you still try to prioritize being well-rounded now that you're no longer a comp climber?

1:34:25 - DISCORD Q: Your most controversial climbing opinion?

1:37:07 - Words of wisdom + where to find Shauna