Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present.

Guest links:

Declan’s Instagram

Zoe’s Instagram

Reference links:

Fukuoka Competition Playlist

Yank n yard stream: Highball boulders comp

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:03 - Starting climbing and competing

4:48 - Strength training BAD?!

10:18 - Japan traveling

11:50 - Fukuoka team event selection process

14:28 - Difficulty of the climbs

18:37 - Talking to the coach during the comp

20:59 - Pressure climbing with a coach and teammates

23:51 - Team competition strategies

28:08 - 5 rounds in 3 days

31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream

33:15 - The stress of youth competitions

35:34 - World Cup climbing is uncomfortable

40:23 - Lead vs boulder preference

44:37 - Future climbing + education goals

49:26 - Now we're just glazing San Diego

54:41 - Audience Q: Anything you would've wanted to change with the team event?

58:59 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training?

1:02:17 - Being known as the "benchwarmers' benchwarmers"

1:03:08 - Outdoor goals

1:05:17 - Beating Elden Ring

1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds!

1:09:13 - Words of wisdom + where to find Zoe and Declan

You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently got silver in boulder at Arco Rockmasters and also won a bronze in Innsbruck this past 2025 season! In this episode, we’ll go over his 2025 season, get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about how he tries to stay in the right mindset during stressful competitions.

Guest links:

Hannes’ Instagram

Reference links:

Amazing Arco Rockmaster Slab Top

The Backflip of Anger

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:12 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:56 - Elbow surgery!

4:20 - Rockmasters reflection

10:55 - Getting into climbing and competing

15:27 - Transitioning out of youth comps

17:24 - 2025 season reflection

22:41 - Comps are going back to old-school climbs

26:08 - Instagram influencing world cups

28:44 - Staying in shape throughout a long competition season

32:10 - Lead vs boulder preference

35:43 - Training schedule + lifting vs gaining weight

43:12 - Pressure being the slab master

47:31 - Top slab tips

49:45 - The fickle mental game of comps

52:58 - Power of visualization for mindset

56:55 - The backflip of anger!!

1:00:16 - Taking his driving test

1:05:03 - 2026 goals

1:06:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What is the language situation in team Belgium?

1:09:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you think calisthenics/gymnastics is necessary now in comp climbing?

1:11:35 - AUDIENCE Q: How to stay calm during competitions?

1:16:43 - Words of wisdom + where to find Hannes

Ben is a climber on Team USA and hold shaper for Pusher holds! In this episode we’ll get some insight into the grades of world cup boulders, how depression, anxiety, and ADHD shapes his relationship with climbing, how he balances working as a routesetter with training, and get his thoughts on hold shaping.

Guest links:

Ben’s Instagram

Reference links:

Seoul World Champs Boulder Semis

The Boss hold

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:10 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:53 - World champs experience

11:51 - Difficulty of semis boulders at world cups

18:33 - Getting into climbing and competing

22:36 - Climbing as self-medication for ADHD

30:20 - Training routine...or lack thereof

38:44 - Actually a lead climber

45:21 - MORE power boulders!

51:55 - Competitiveness with Colin

55:11 - Becoming a hold shaper

59:00 - Good holds vs bad holds

1:09:54 - Thoughts on no tex

1:20:05 - 2026 goals

1:21:56 - AUDIENCE Q: Did you really start climbing at 2?

1:26:19 - AUDIENCE Q: What kept you motivated to keep trying after failures at nationals

1:30:53 - AUDIENCE Q: What local climbers helped you growing up?

1:33:51 - Shoutouts + where to find Ben

Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.

Guest links:

Annies’s Instagram

Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)

Reference links:

Women’s Boulder Final Seoul World Champs

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:39 - Jetlag + travels

5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family

7:09 - Static + slow climbing style

10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks??

12:08 - Timing out in lead

18:22 - 2026 goals

20:49 - Annie's training plan

24:32 - Lack of gym access

27:43 - Post-high school plans

30:22 - Outdoor climbing

33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion?

35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps?

41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance?

42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos?

43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes?

45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie

Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team Germany’s training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we’ll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we’ll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will still be in the combined format for 2028!

Guest links:

Sagi’s Instagram

Reference links:

IFSC Format Experiment Upcoming Comp

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:40 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:24 - Youth worlds + Spain travels

4:59 - Climbing + coaching with no experience!

12:02 - Becoming the German bouldering coach

19:42 - Do pros still need climbing tips??

22:41 - Team Germany's training breakdown + reaction time practice

28:19 - Comforting athletes who have a bad round

37:58 - DEBUNKING LA 2028 qualification process

44:07 - The issue with bouldering points system

47:32 - HOT TAKE: Bouldering is no longer real climbing

54:53 - New generation of climbing

1:02:55 - German team challenges

1:09:42 - Price of hosting world cups

1:11:13 - Bouldering needs to change

1:18:50 - USA travel nightmare

1:28:03 - IG Q: Athletes in Germany that hate the DAV?

1:32:11 - DISCORD Q: Talk through the process of an appeal

1:38:58 - DISCORD Q: What do you do in ISO?

1:40:55 - Words of wisdom + where to find Sagi

Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to make the Peruvian national team!

Guest links:

Miguel’s Instagram

Miguel’s website

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:18 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:03 - Getting into PT and climbing

4:09 - OTs vs PTs and insurance battles

7:26 - Working with youth comp climbers

9:44 - What ISO is like at youth nationals

14:38 - Massage guns? And my bro-science musings

16:43 - Injuries in kids vs adults

19:37 - The big one: growth plate injuries in kids

25:01 - When to rest vs train through an injury

27:34 - General recommendations for climbing injuries

32:45 - S+C to prevent ankle, shoulder injuries

35:26 - Ranking 3 dangerous comp moves

42:27 - When NOT to tape

47:28 - What injuries do vs don't require time off the wall

52:53 - Chronic injuries? Maybe you're climbing wrong...

59:33 - Training for Peruvian nationals

1:06:37 - DISCORD Q: What advice would you give to PT students looking to work with climbers?

1:08:46 - DISCORD Q: What are the pillars of a strong climbing warmup?

1:12:27 - DISCORD Q: top 2 exercises for injury prevention

1:17:29 - Words of wisdom and where to find Miguel

Pete is a commentator and MC who has commentated for several world cups and North American elite competitions. In this episode, we’ll learn about the art of MCing, times he’s gotten flamed online as a commentator, and we get a lot of insight into the financials of broadcast and climbing as a sport, including the best argument I’ve heard yet for why Eurosport is a good deal. It’s clear to me in this episode that Pete is a huge proponent of growing the climbing community and his passion really shines through!

Guest links:

Pete’s Instagram

Pete’s website

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:13 - Climbing in 1 World Cup

8:15 - Deciding not to be a dirtbag climber

11:13 - The art of MCing

15:13 - Is MCing or commentary more fun?

18:58 - The price of broadcasting

21:06 - Getting yelled at for commentary

27:03 - SLC world cup v6 boulders

37:41 - How to trick top climbers with holds

39:43 - The value of non-IFSC comps

46:26 - Cost of putting together Dockmasters

51:41 - Punk Rock Masters' crazy $50k cash purse

59:52 - Are climbers cheapskates?!

1:11:37 - IG Q: Are dynamic moves a good way to make climbing more mainstream?

1:16:26 - IG Q: What do you want to be remembered for?

1:17:51 - IG Q: What's your current relationship with CEC?

1:24:49 - IG Q: What's your golf handicap?

1:29:01 - Climbers need to be promoting climbers!

1:34:55 - Closing thoughts + where to find Pete

You probably recognize Nekaia from when she recently made her first boulder world cup finals in Curitiba and her sister Sovarae podiumed at her last USA youth boulder nationals. In this episode, we get a lot of insight into their sibling dynamic as comp climbers, we’ll hear about Nekaia’s experience in Curitiba and Sovarae’s experience going through mental battles at comps, and we’ll have some fun conversation about food and Harry Potter.

Guest links:

Nekaia’s Instagram

Sovarae’s Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:35 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:18 - Nekaia's new haircut!

6:59 - Are they related to Annie Sanders?!

7:42 - How the family got into climbing

11:05 - Homeschool kids

13:52 - Sovarae used to get dragged to the climbing gym

21:11 - Jealously and competitiveness amongst each other

30:45 - How USA team selection works

33:49 - Nekaia's breakout performance in Curitiba

41:25 - Nekaia's slab strength and strength weakness

43:39 - Sovarae's finger strength and mental weakness

49:32 - Nekaia's mental advice

51:57 - World Cup traveling and eating abroad

56:32 - HOT TAKE: Losing is more important than winning

59:53 - HOT TAKE: People who say they don't like comp style climbing need to be shown how!

1:04:12 - Swimming and Harry Potter

1:10:53 - DISCORD Q: How early to start wearing in a comp shoe?

1:13:30 - IG Q: Favorite style of climb?

1:16:28 - IG Q: Outdoor rock projects?

1:18:09 - IG Q: What effect does fan interaction have on your morale?

1:22:36 - IG Q: How do the finances work?

1:25:28 - IG Q: Does Sovarae always get the middle seat?

1:28:39 - Closing thoughts + where to find Nekaia and Sovarae

If it’s not obvious, Carl is Erin McNeice’s dad and I’m so thrilled to get a parent perspective on the podcast. In this episode, we’ll learn about the family’s dedication and honest approach to building Erin’s climbing career, how much it cost to support the training and travel of an athlete, why he’s no longer allowed to watch her comps in person, and get adorable dad-anecdotes from the Olympics.

Guest links:

Carl’s Instagram

Reference links:

Erin’s Episode

Budapest Olympic Qualifier Stress

(Buzzed) Eurosport interview

Horsin Around Quest for 8C

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:19 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:06 - Returning from Innsbruck

5:44 - Carl's climbing and gymnastics background

10:47 - Getting involved in competition climbing

15:57 - When to push vs when to back off

22:43 - The cost of being a comp parent

28:32 - Sudden rise between the 2023-2024 season

33:59 - Erin's intense training schedule

38:37 - Phasing out of Erin's training routine

42:53 - Not being allowed to watch the comps in person

48:06 - The stress of watching your child compete

54:38 - Most stressful competition to watch

58:35 - The Olympics experience

1:06:13 - Thoughts on dangerous setting

1:16:55 - DISCORD Q: How does having a comp kid influence the family dynamic?

1:20:02 - DISCORD: How to avoid good results = good vibes only

1:25:31 - DISCORD Q: Do you approve shots of yourself on Erin's Youtube channel :p

1:27:41 - DISCORD Q: How does it feel to be a worse climber than your child?

1:30:49 - Words of wisdom

Ty has done it all: He’s been competition belaying, judging, and coaching for over 10 years, and he started the belay programs at USA climbing and the IFSC. In this episode, we’ll learn about all things belaying, get behind the scenes insight, and hear about how the scene has changed since the Olympics came into play, leading to some toxic parents.

Guest links:

Ty’s Instagram

Reference links:

Noah Makaiwi Interview

Reel Rock Speed Mishap @10:25

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:20 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:08 - Coaching and belaying at USA youth nationals

7:36 - Getting into volunteer judging/belaying

11:35 - Good belaying vs bad belaying

15:40 - You need to train your neck!!

18:03 - Dangerous belay practices

23:49 - The pressure of belaying at world cups

29:29 - Athletes with specific belay requests

31:54 - Athletes who are hard to belay for

34:32 - Routesetting that makes belaying hard

37:28 - Being a speed starter

43:57 - Birmingham world games 2022

47:41 - HOT TAKE: Women are better belayers than men?!

51:25 - Paraclimbing belaying

54:28 - Manual speed climbing belaying?!

57:02 - Extra considerations for para belaying

59:37 - Changes in the sport - Olympics desperation

1:04:40 - The toxic youth scene

1:09:31 - Discord Q: Do belayers get a rundown of the route from setters?

1:10:24 - DISCORD Q: Have you ever seen an athlete or coach object to a belayer?

1:11:15 - DISCORD Q: Process for removing belayers mid comp?

1:13:28 - Ice climbing belaying?!?

1:16:03 - Where to find Ty