Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we’ll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.

Guest links:

Tijl’s Instagram

Reference links:

Info on elections and candidates

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:27 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:16 - Climbing, coaching, and IFSC history

5:50 - Coaching the Belgian team

10:56 - How IFSC Presidency works

15:11 - Moving on from the Olympics

18:53 - Changes Tijl wants to see in the IFSC

24:43 - Increasing funding through Eurosport and routesetter education

33:25 - HOT TOPIC: Big names taking a break from world cups

38:38 - HOT TOPIC: New national federation quotas for world cups

41:38 - HOT TOPIC: RED-S Policy Implementation

48:20 - HOT TOPIC: NEOM Games

50:15 - DISCORD Q: What changes do you think we'll see to the World Cup format?

56:40 - DISCORD Q: Plastic vs rock preference?

1:00:47 - Words of wisdom + where to find Tijl

Gregor was a boulder & lead climber from team Slovenia but he recently retired a few months ago from competitions. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the powerful Slovenian team, how he made the decision to retire and all the planning around it, what it’s like climbing with Janja, and we get to hear him geek out about holds and hold shaping.

Guest links:

Gregor’s Instagram

Reference links:

Gregor’s hold brand

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:21 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:08 - Spray wall noob questions

5:34 - Feeling competitive against his brother

10:45 - Why Slovenia is so dominant at climbing

17:13 - Slovenian team training and funding

19:36 - Slovenian young guns to watch out for

21:21 - Career highlights and traveling

25:35 - Being a picky eater on the road

27:57 - Competing with migraines

30:55 - Making the decision to retire

37:52 - How to be okay with "getting weaker"

42:14 - Setting vs competing

45:43 - IFSC setting aspirations

47:55 - What is hold shaping

52:52 - Do we really need more holds?

55:40 - IG Q: what's your creative process for designing a new hold?

1:02:23 - Hot takes on hold shaping and no tex

1:06:30 - Discord Q: How do you see World Cup routesetting changing in the next 10 years?

1:10:18 - DISCORD Q: Does hold shaping inspire your setting more or vice versa?

1:11:41 - DISCORD Q: What's it like climbing with Janja?

1:19:09 - Matt Groom trolling

1:20:44 - Final thoughts and where to find Gregor

Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I’ve interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we’ll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany.

Guest links:

Anna’s Instagram

Reference links:

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

3:50 - Starting climbing at 3!

8:18 - Competing in youth and Senior Circuit at the same time

12:27 - Youth setting vs senior setting

14:42 - Big performance boost in 2024

17:23 - Flashing all Innsbruck quails boulders

22:22 - Why younger climbers dominate the WC circuit

25:09 - German national team

30:04 - German military sponsorship

34:04 - 2025 season

36:19 - Finding out if the combined format will be in LA 2028

39:05 - Non-climbing hobbies + sewing!

42:23 - Outdoor projects

43:28 - IG Q: What is the hardest part of being an athlete?

49:06 - IG Q: Tips on improving arm strength

50:27 - IG Q: Where can I buy the Germany down jacket?

51:12 - IG Q: Non-climbing related goal

52:58 - IG Q: Thoughts on the minimum BMI requirement

57:29 - Outro and where to find Anna

Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing.

Guest links:

Rodrigo’s Instagram

Reference links:

Brazilian Hold Brand - Crux

Night Moves - Outdoor Brazilian Climbing

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago!

7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury

10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure

13:57 - Living in Australia

16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace

21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America

25:31 - Brazil climber funding

30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil

36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC

39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber

48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid

51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips

56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations?

1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil?

1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo

Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay.

Guest links:

“Another Setting Podcast”

Niki’s Youtube

Jake’s Youtube

Niki’s Instagram

Jake’s Instagram

Reference links:

The hold that doesn’t need to exist

Routesetting workshops through Frankenjura Academy

Dockmasters 2025 - January

Studiobloc masters 2025 - March

Quarryman

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

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Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:29 - Stretching!

5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting

10:23 - Settings trends in each country

15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms

24:54 - Lack of style in world cups

32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall

42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats

48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy

52:58 - How will setting innovate?

57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these!

1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay

1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast

1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive climbs in gyms?

1:14:53 - Discord Q: How important is hold selection in order to force a move?

1:19:27 - Discord Q: What is the "jug ladder" of parkour routes?

1:23:47 - Words of widsom + Where to find Niki and Jake

Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough.

Guest links:

Website

Instagram

Reference links:

Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine

Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMed

David Barrans IFSC History

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:17 - Holidays

4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT

11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time

19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous?

26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves

36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!!

40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs

51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age

1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences

1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers

1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury

1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis?

1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training?

1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution

1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy

"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains, and her (thankfully far in the future) plans for retirement.

Guest links:

Instagram

Tiktok

Reference links:

Anime Recommendation

K-drama Recommendation

Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:19 - MadRock Shoutout!!

2:06 - Post-season break

4:09 - Being away from home for 6 months/Switzerland coaching

9:18 - Starting out climbing with the family

12:24 - Birth order stereotypes

15:16 - Shingles in Paris

19:23 - Meeting other Olympians but not Raygun

21:13 - How Olympic finals felt compared to qualis

27:06 - Comparing Paris to Tokyo Olympics

36:12 - Being emotional on camera

38:44 - Top athletes being gone from 2024 WC season

40:17 - Making lead climbing gains

45:18 - Winning her first WC medal

51:24 - Competition schedule preference

54:59 - Brisbane Olympics and future retirement plans

57:52 - Discord Q: how do you navigate a vegan diet while traveling for comps

59:09- Weeb/koreaboo?

1:03:01 - Discord Q: Could you imagine doing a Swiss bouldering comp next year?

1:04:47 - Discord Q: Do you have any interesting experiences in Japan?

1:06:30 - Discord Q: Are Australian gyms too focused on commercial climbing?

1:09:49 - Traveling with her sister

1:11:53 - Where to find Oce

Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation.

There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Guest links:

Instagram

Email

Reference links:

Wedge Climbing

Janja Unfiltered Period Talk

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery

5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching

10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA

13:18 - How to get into coaching now

18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies

25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics

34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 2024

37:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest

39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach

40:56 - How GB training camps work

44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles

53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB

1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community

1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching

1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the circuit

1:14:59 - Recommendation to other coaches on stress management

1:17:25 - The future of comp climbing + athlete money

1:22:45 - "Coaching people to their own individual Olympics"

1:26:45 - Tom's future

1:28:22 - Discord Q: Does cohesion in a national team make a difference?

1:30:48 - Discord Q: Did individual coaching ever interfere with your work as national team coach?

1:32:54 - Final thoughts + where to find Tom

Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Guest links:

Instagram

Youtube

Reference links:

Weight Vest Video

Training App

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC

6:05 - Climbing + Competing start

7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent

10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training?

15:40 - The "no expectations" comp trick

19:55 - Slab is the enemy

22:10 - Being a short climber

26:08 - Training schedule

30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation

31:42 - Swiss athlete funding

35:23 - Money and YouTube

41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube

43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy?

48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders

54:47 - Bulking & cutting?

1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene

1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai

1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is...escape rooms?!

1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s

1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall

1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name

1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who's your favorite YouTuber?

1:23:35 - Where to find Sofya

Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we’ll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we’ll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao.

Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Guest links:

Stanley’s Instagram

Zul’s Instagram

Reference links:

Appeal against Sorato during Boulder Finals at SLC 2023

Appeal Form

Stickman (Implied beta) on M1 Boulder Finals at SLC 2023

Bee incident during Speed Finals at SLC 2023

Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com

Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast

Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp

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Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Getting back from Paris Olympics

7:31 - Their IFSC Roles

12:35 - Why become an IFSC judge?

20:34 - How to become an IFSC judge

23:46 - The pressure of judging at the IFSC level

26:51 - Being taken advantage of by coaches

31:09 - Messing up an appeal in Salt Lake City

38:44 - Things route setters do that judges HATE

49:19 - The appeals process

53:55 - Judge relationship with coaches

1:01:27 - Giving athletes yellow cards

1:14:06 - Fixing the weather

1:17:28 - Performing a skit at the World Cup opening ceremony

1:20:59 - Why is the rain issue never fixed?

1:26:58 - Belayer protest walk-out & other crazy stories

1:35:56 - Things to be improved in the IFSC

1:42:25 - Discord Q: How different are WCs based on who's organizing them

1:52:11 - Discord Q: Should corporations host world cups instead of national federations?

1:54:20 - Final thoughts, where to find Stanley & Zul