The Impact Driver Podcast has featured routesetters who are also gym directors, competition chiefs, nonprofit founders and industry veterans. This episode features its own host. After more than three years of putting guests in the hot seat, Holly Chen finally sat down in it herself, getting interviewed by Head Routesetter of the Spot Max Donovan.
Chen works a dual career of both routesetter and writer/journalist. She sets at the Spot Climbing Gyms in Colorado, where she was among the founding setters of Death Moth, a competition set by and for women, nonbinary and gender nonconforming climbers. As a journalist, she reports on the intersection between adventure sports, health, culture and technology. Her bylines have appeared in Alpinist Magazine, Climbing, the Himalayan Journal, Desire Lines Collective and Climbing Business Journal. Chen’s writing has also been shortlisted by the International Sports Press Association.
In this episode, Chen talks about pattern recognition, compositional decision making, the ceiling of the routesetting industry, and what it actually takes to stick around in a profession that gives you plenty of reasons to leave.
General Topics Covered
The unlikely overlap between reading, writing and routesetting: why pattern recognition is a skill that connects all threeHow literary structure maps onto competition and commercial setting, and why you should understand the rules before you consider breaking someWhy competition setting feels more like journalism and commercial setting feels more like fiction writingWhere to experiment and where not to: the case for taking risks in commercial setting before bringing ideas into a compThe ceiling of the routesetting industry—how low it actually is, and why the industry being relatively young is both a limitation and an opportunityAdjacent careers in the climbing world and why the most interesting paths are often the ones nobody has walked yetWhat many former competitive climbers bring to setting and what they don'tHow to build a more diverse setting team and why intention moves the needleWhy camaraderie might be the most underrated retention tool in the industrySetting pet peeves, the editor-headsetter analogy, and why being direct is a skill worth cultivatingShow Notes
Find Holly Chen on Instagram and more of Holly’s workThe Spot Gyms and the Spot RoutesettingDeath MothThe hero’s journey story structureRange: Why Generalists Triumph in a Specialized WorldClimbing Business Journal Gym MapLessons From the Sharp End of Modern Setting – CBJ Podcast with Mike BockinoPut a Drop in the Bucket When You Can – CBJ Podcast with Taylor FragomeniYou Can Strip My Boulder – CBJ Podcast with Blake GreenClosing Notes
If you’d like to nominate someone as a guest next guest, have a topic you want to see us tackle or have questions, we’d love for you to reach out. You can find our pitch form here.
The Impact Driver Podcast is a production of the Climbing Business Journal. Today’s episode is sponsored by Rungne, Cascade Speciality, Trango, the Climbing Wall Association and Walltopia. It was edited and produced by Holly Yu Tung Chen, Megan Cheek, Scott Rennak and Joe Robinson, and our theme music is by Devin Dabney.