Circle Up!

In this episode, Kyra Condie and guest Dan Beall use Dan's experience with overcoming catastrophic injuries to give some advice when facing adversity in sport. They talk about Dan's shoulder dislocation and accompanying nerve damage that left him without a clear path to recovery and how he dealt with that, both mentally and physically. They also explore the nuances of confidence versus mastery, and how a delicate balance of the two can lead to an enjoyable experience for some (not all) on highball boulders, as well as how to confront fear in a safe and productive way. They finish by talking about the most common training plan mistakes Dan sees in his coaching and provide some tips to maximize your learning potential during each climbing session.

This week, Kyra and Allison get real about the struggle to balance their climbing obsession with the reality of needing rest days. The talk about the challenges of having a never-ending season both in competitions and with outdoor climbing (something is always "in-season") and how hard it can be to time things correctly between varying schedules and time windows. They chat about trying to stay in peak shape through that never-ending season and share some of their own experiments with training schedules to figure out what works for them and their goals. Finally, they take a fun trip down memory lane, back to the PanAmerican Youth Championships where Kyra and Allison first met, and Allison got to compete as a Canadian citizen for the first time.

In this episode, Kyra recounts her past two trips to Rocklands, South Africa for climbing trips and how she approached her third one differently than the first two. She remembers some lessons learned from her first trip in 2016, what she did wrong (like switching birth control right before leaving), what she would have done differently, and how that changed her whole approach to climbing outside in general. Sometimes, finding what motivates you is the most important.

In this episode of the Beta & Banter series Kyra and Allison chat about how to deal with a self deprecating climbing partner, when (and how) to avoid an ex at the climbing gym, and how does all that advice carry over to climbing with your romantic partner. other questions included what their opinions are of the recent age limit change in IFSC and how an unfunded athlete does the World Cup series. Tune in to hear all of their advice, beta, and banter!

In this episode, Allison and Kyra dive into the tricky world of climbing etiquette and ethics—both indoors and outdoors. From navigating social situations, like approaching someone with headphones in at the gym or downgrading someones "first of the grade", to managing the vibe at the crag when loud music takes over; they break down common dilemmas. Tune in as they explore how to balance personal preferences with respect for the climbing community, offering insights and practical tips for climbers of all levels.

In this episode Kyra and Allison dive into the exciting world of paraclimbing and its growth into becoming a Paralympic sport. Special guest Mo Beck, a 2X World Champion Paraclimber and 10 time AU2 Paraclimbing National Champion, shares her experiences and insights on the growth of adaptive climbing, the challenges and triumphs of competing at the highest level, and her professional climbing career. Mo discusses her journey, the incredible athletes in the sport, and how the paraclimbing community continues to grow.

In this episode, Kyra is joined once again by her good friend and fellow pro climber, now an Olympian, Campbell Harrison. Together, they dive into Campbell's unforgettable experience at the Paris 2024 Olympics. They discuss everything from what Australia did best in the Olympic Village to Campbell's reflections on his performance on the world’s biggest stage. Looking ahead, they explore what the future holds and how training might evolve as the countdown to the 2028 Games begins.

Allison and Kyra give their unfiltered thoughts and feelings about the Men's and Women's Combined Finals at the Olympics in Paris. From whether their predictions were corrects, to heartbreaking moments and dealing with performance pressure, hear their recap and insights into what the athletes might have been feeling on the biggest sports stage in the world!

Allison and Kyra give their thoughts on the first 4 days of the Paris 2024 Olympic Sport Climbing events. From heartbreaks to broken world records, there was so much excitement in the first 4 days that everyone is excited to see what the next two days has in store. From their own predictions of who will be on the podium to Kyra's insights on the emotional toll of the olympics; here are their unfiltered thoughts!

In this first episode of “Beta & Banter” Kyra and Allison answer questions from the listeners! This will likely become a regular segment or work in as stand alone episodes of the podcast. From how to avoid burnout as a youth climber to how to deal with being the “worst” climber of your group of friends, we try our best to answer your climbing queries with practical and personal advice.