The Testpiece Podcast

Daniel Yagmin Jr. is the founder of Decoy Climbing holds and a legend in the Northeast climbing scene. He joins us this week to talk about the process of hold shaping, how his background in fine arts informs his work, his love of board climbing, and where he thinks the industry is headed.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• Dan’s unconventional hold shaping tool kit
• The look of the Decoy Board
• The pros and cons of every training board
• Dan’s favorite holds — outdoors and indoors

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Noah’s biggest lesson from his injury
• What are the defining characteristics of the British board style?
• How to address elitism in the climbing community and between climbing disciplines
• When to use a standardized board over a spray wall

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Connor Herson is back after an insane 3 years. Last week he proposed the world’s first 5.15 trad climb, “Drifter’s Escape,” a beautiful single pitch in Squamish that revolves around one of the best moves you could ask for on gear.

He also talks about balancing climbing professionally with completing his masters degree, lessons he’s learned from climbing with boulderers, and his philosophy of improving by climbing as much volume as he can without sacrificing difficulty.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• A look into Connor’s approach to training
• What makes him so strong on jams and locks?
• Connor’s bouldering aspirations
• Connor and the TB2

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• What’s the best way to approach solo night climbing?
• More crazy skincare techniques from Will
• Is Font or Yosemite more technical?

SHOW NOTES:

Duality of Man (5.15d): https://www.instagram.com/p/DT-zNfBibXI/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Drifter's Escape (5.15a Trad): https://www.instagram.com/p/DUqlp18j6vL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Nate Williams on ROTSW: https://www.instagram.com/p/DUMf_aCgdpd/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

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Adam Shahar is back on the pod after the best year any climber could ask for. He’s been crushing hard boulders in Bishop, and Yosemite, and just climbed his first V17, Return of the Sleepwalker. He also talks about his recent banger V13 FA in the Valley, and his single-move Northeast megaproject.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• Adam’s favorite crags in the Northeast
• Other projects Adam’s eyeing
• What motivates you as a climber?
• Why are there so many strong crimpers in the Northeast?

SHOW NOTES:

“La Dolce Vita” V13 FA: https://www.instagram.com/p/DT6XK3Zksaj/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==/

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Quinn Spadafora from Tension Climbing, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Gamification of boards pro’s and con’s?
• Best ways to do Leaderboards?
• What separates Quinn from the actual Board Lords?

SHOW NOTES:

ROQ Climbing Gym: https://www.roqclimbing.com/

8B On A Moonboard?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4hR75avQkU

Wheel Rock “Crimpiest Board”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ggh3uhdTVm8

“ursula” V6 TB2 Spray by Alex Johnson

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Melina Costanza is back on Testpiece for the 3rd time! That’s because Melina is absolutely outstanding in every way: competitions, outdoors, training, and especially mindset. Melina is able to articulate all of her thoughts on these things in a way that most can’t which is why we love having her on the podcast as often as possible.

She also recently competed in her first ever World Championship where she podiumed!! Even more astounding is that she did this as her first comp back after having to sit out the entire World Cup series with a serious knee injury.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): 

• Are you gunning for the 2028 Olympics?
• What is the prime age for being a competition climber?
• The role of JOY in greatness.
• Arnold Schwarzenegger!
• Indoor skin management vs. Outdoor skin management?

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

This Bonus content is SO GOOD. If you don’t have Patreon just sign up, get the 7-day Free Trial, and cancel immediately. You can’t miss this! I guarantee you will laugh out loud. -josh

• 2025 Top 3 Moments
• 2025’s Biggest Winners
• 2025’s Biggest Losers
• 2026 Predictions & Wishes
• “Savage Downgrades”
• “Big Toe Condoms”

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Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode!

Tim has rededicated himself to the mastery of climbing after a brief stint in a normal 9-5. And boy did he come back with a bang with the amazing FA of Borrowed Time, a stunning V14 highball in Tahoe.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Mentally dealing with big injuries. How do you do it, and how did it shift your perspective on climbing?
• Biggest Moments for Climbing in 2025? Predictions for 2026?
• Would you be willing to change your proposed grade of Mandala Sit to V14?

SHOW NOTES:

• timkangcoaching.com
• Focus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim Kang

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board Climbing
• Most Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)
• Everyone's Favorite and Least Favorite TB2 Holds

SHOW NOTES:

StoneLine Podcast w/ Ben Moon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2W8P-tKM40

Quantum Board Session w/ Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi: https://youtu.be/j-PMLkanWCQ?si=MdNKzok20A6IBPeD

Board Lords #9: https://youtu.be/xJcj99-_UVw?si=oiUbUzWUTXvFyAOL

Lumo board: https://www.lumoclimbing.com/

Shiny Wall: https://shinywall.com/en/standard-max-full/

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