In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino.

They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone.

Key Takeaways

• Melissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges.
• Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime.
• The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains.
• How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle.
• Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12).

Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT). Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results.

Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level.

Key Takeaways:

• Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbers
• LISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performance
• Essential recovery strategies for improving endurance
• Why personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alone
• Practical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectiveness

Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level!

Links mentioned in the episode:
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQ
https://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645s

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall chats with climber and coach Billy Ridal about his recent free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. They explore Billy's journey from competition climbing to the world of big walls, discussing the physical preparation, mental resilience, and tactical planning essential for success on one of the world’s most iconic climbs.
Billy shares his insights on transitioning to big wall climbing, the endurance training required, and how his competition experience played a crucial role. The discussion also highlights the upcoming film, The Nose Job, set to release on November 7th, which captures Billy’s and Alex Waterhouse's climb of The Nose. Their journey from the competition circuit to Yosemite's big walls is a tale of adaptation, physical preparation, and mental resilience on one of the world's most iconic routes.
If you're curious about the skills, strategies, and mindset needed for big wall climbs, this episode is packed with valuable insights from one of the sport’s rising stars.
Key Takeaways:

• Billy Ridal's free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan
• How competition climbing skills apply to big walls
• Endurance training and preparation for big wall climbing
• Highlights from the upcoming film The Nose Job

Join Tom and Billy for an in-depth discussion that offers a mix of technical advice and gripping adventure stories from the world of big wall climbing.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

 In this special episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with elite climber Will Bosi to discuss his remarkable second ascent of Spots of Time (9A/V17) on Helvellyn. Will offers a deep dive into the physical and mental challenges behind his historic climb, sharing the preparation, training strategies, and mindset that helped him send one of the toughest boulders in the world.

Will reveals how he adapted the original sequence for his own climbing style and collaborated with fellow climber Aidan Roberts on beta, making this achievement a true test of both physical endurance and climbing intellect. They also explore Will’s unique approach to training—mimicking moves from the ground to conserve energy and protect skin—and how this method helped him succeed.

In addition, the discussion touches on grading comparisons between other legendary climbs, including Burden of Dreams and Alphane, and Will’s thoughts on pushing the limits of elite bouldering. Will also shares insights on his new chalk brand, Bosi Blizzard, crafted to tackle tough conditions and support endurance on the sharpest holds.

With insights into the mental toughness needed to handle the pressure at the top, and a sneak peek into his future projects, this episode is a must-listen for climbers aiming to understand the mindset behind high-level ascents.

Key Takeaways:

• Will Bosi's adaptation of beta and sequence for Spots of Time
• Unique training methods to conserve energy and protect skin while preparing for a major project
• The mental preparation required for tackling world-class bouldering challenges
• How Will’s Spots of Time send compares to other 9As he’s tackled
• The evolution of climbing grades, including potential V18 projects
• What’s next on Will’s radar, from Japan’s hardest boulders to new UK projects

Tune in now for this exciting discussion on breaking boundaries in the climbing world!

And for Bosi Blizzard checkout https://williambosi.com/

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Ever wonder what it takes to break through the hardest routes? In this episode, elite climber and coach Jen Wood shares the tactics that took her from tough projects to climbing 8c and beyond. Jen breaks down the practical strategies she uses, showing how they can be applied by anyone working on a project, regardless of grade. Whether you’re pushing through the 6s or aiming for 8s, this episode offers valuable insights into building momentum, mastering outdoor sessions, and refining your approach to projecting.

Topics Covered:

Jen shares how consistently climbing outdoors, even just twice a week, has transformed her approach and improved her ability to recognise climbing techniques and tricks.
Jen explains how she has built her climbing capacity and improved her skills on higher grades.
The importance of knowing when to push through difficult moves and how breaking down routes into manageable sections can make hard sends more achievable.
Accessing Try-Hard Mode, and how Jen started power screaming and learning to push her limits.

For more insights into the world of climbing, projecting strategies, and mental resilience, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.

As a thank you for tuning in, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Ever wondered how hard Olympic level athlete train? In this episode highlight, which is a thirty-minute snippet of the full episode, host Josh Hadley talks to renowned coach, Ollie Torr, about the high-level physical and mental training that goes into preparing Olympic athletes.

Key topics include:

• Training volume – Ollie explains how elite climbers train between 30-40 hours a week during their base season, including long hours on the wall and skill development.
• Execution and super compensation – Ollie describes the process of pushing athletes into “training holes,” where they continually push beyond their limits before tapering to recover and reach peak performance.
• Staying in the game: The importance of mental toughness and consistency, with athletes needing to prioritise training and withstand immense physical and emotional pressure to stay at the top level.
• Lower body strength & grip training: With dynamic movements and evolving setting styles, climbers need to focus more on leg strength, opposition, and less traditional components of grip training as the holds are getting larger, such as wrist strength, open drag grip positions, and wide pinches.

For more insights into the world of Olympic-level training and the challenges faced by athletes, listen to the full episode on all major podcast platforms.

As a thank you for tuning into this episode, enjoy 15% off Lattice Training Plans with the code PODCAST15.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, host Teresa sits down with British climber and coach Jen Wood, who recently made history with her impressive ascents at Kilnsey and Water Cum Jolly in the UK. Jen also opens up about her toughest first ascent yet—Vela Stivina in Croatia—sharing how the unique climbing style there pushed her both mentally and physically to new limits.

Jen discusses her journey, from projecting challenging routes in different climates to her preference for climbing in warmer weather, which has become a key part of her training philosophy. As someone who stepped back from competition climbing, Jen offers a candid reflection on how this shift has reshaped her approach to coaching and outdoor adventures.

Key Takeaways:

• Consistency is Key: Regular time on the rock is essential for building both skill and confidence.
• Weather Matters: Jen’s preference for warmer conditions shows how the right environment can elevate performance and enjoyment.
• Stepping Back to Move Forward: Taking a break from competitions gave Jen a fresh perspective, allowing her to refocus on her passion for outdoor climbing.
• Training Smarter: Jen highlights the differences between preparing for competitions and training for outdoor climbs, emphasising the need to adapt strategies.
• Balance is Crucial: Rest and recovery are essential for staying at peak performance while pursuing a variety of climbing goals.
• Climbing Pitfalls: Jen shares common mistakes climbers make when trying to progress to higher grades and offers tips for overcoming these hurdles.
• Mental Fortitude: Breaking complex moves into smaller, achievable goals is key to pushing your limits.
• Embracing New Challenges: Success doesn’t always come in the form of initial goals, but personal achievements along the way can be just as rewarding.
• Expanding Comfort Zones: Exploring different climbing styles and routes helps climbers grow and tackle fresh challenges with renewed confidence.

Jen's story is a reminder of how taking on new challenges—whether it’s a first ascent or switching focus from competition to outdoor climbing—can lead to remarkable achievements. This episode is filled with insights to inspire climbers of all levels, offering practical tips and an inside look at Jen's unique approach to climbing and coaching.

Stay tuned for more from Jen as she sets her sights on new adventures, including a potential first ascent in Kalymnos! 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's Lattice Podcast, host Maddy Cope sits down with Sarah Duvall to explore the critical need for improved postpartum care, protocols, support, and education for women. Together, they uncover the significant gaps in research and recovery protocols for postpartum women compared to other injuries.

Key Topics Include:

• Sarah’s Climbing Comeback: Sarah shares her personal journey of returning to climbing after pregnancy, highlighting the challenges she faced and valuable lessons learned.
• Core & Pelvic Floor Strength: Why prioritising core and pelvic floor strength is essential for postpartum recovery.
• Addressing Pubic Symphysis Pain: A discussion on common issues like pubic symphysis pain and the importance of addressing muscle imbalances before and during pregnancy.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's Lattice Podcast highlight, host Tom Randall sits down with legendary climber Steve McClure to delve into injury prevention and the nuances of climbing as we age. Life gets more complicated as you get older, but finding inspiration from motivated and strong friends can make a world of difference.

Highlights from this Discussion Include:

• Life and Climbing: How increasing life complexities make it harder to push climbing limits as we age.
• Motivation from Peers: The crucial role of being surrounded by motivated and strong friends for ongoing inspiration.
• Ageing and Genetics: Understanding the impact of genetics and self-care on ageing climbers.
• Maintaining Muscle Mass: The importance of maintaining upper body muscle mass with age.
• Endurance and Power Endurance: How these aspects can still be improved, despite potential declines in finger strength.
• Flexibility Changes: Noting how flexibility evolves, with the lower body often retaining better range of motion than the upper body.
• Motivation and Enjoyment:Emphasizing the importance of motivation and the joy of climbing in maintaining progress over time.

This episode is just a thirty minute highlight from a more in-depth conversation covering additional insights on balancing life and climbing as we age. For the full discussion, tune in to the complete episode available on all major podcast platforms. 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode of the Lattice Podcast, host Josh Hadley sits down with renowned coach Ollie Torr, who has guided multiple Olympic athletes and collaborated with national teams worldwide. Together, they delve into the rigorous and strategic training required for Olympic climbers, revealing what distinguishes potential Olympic medallists from other elite international competitors—both in terms of personality traits and training approaches.

Key Takeaways:

• The key differences between international competition climbers and those poised to win Olympic medals
• The vital role of a strong support network, including parents, coaches, physiotherapists, and media managers, in an athlete’s journey to success
• The importance of physical training focused on building resilience, cultivating the ability to push limits, and embracing challenges
• How training cycles, including deliberate "training holes" and super compensation, push athletes to their peak performance
• The significance of dedication, sacrifice, and trust in the training process for achieving success at the highest level
• The role of genetics and body type in climbing performance, alongside the impact of lifestyle choices and the joy of training

Don’t miss this latest episode and elevate your climbing knowledge with expert insights from Josh Hadley and Ollie Torr.

And best of luck to all the GB athletes in Paris 2024! 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.