Lattice Training Podcast

In the second half of this two-part series, Ollie Torr is joined by international coach Jesse Firestone, Lattice coach Jemma Powell, and elite climbers Will Bosi and Aidan Roberts to delve deeper into the nuances of strength and conditioning in climbing.

Jesse Firestone brings his expertise as a renowned U.S.-based climbing coach, known for his holistic approach to athlete development. Jemma Powell, a seasoned Lattice coach with over 25 years of climbing experience, shares insights from her work with climbers across various levels. Will Bosi and Aidan Roberts, both at the forefront of elite climbing, discuss how tailored strength and conditioning programs have influenced their performance and progression.

Key Topics Covered:

• The importance of individualised training programs for climbers.
• Addressing the specific needs of female, older, and younger athletes in strength and conditioning.
• Strategies for integrating strength training without compromising climbing technique.
• Managing fatigue and recovery to optimise performance.
• Real-world experiences from elite climbers on balancing training and climbing.

Join us as we explore these topics and more, providing valuable insights for climbers and coaches aiming to optimise performance through personalised strength and conditioning strategies.

Listen to Part 2 now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your preferred platform.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this in-depth episode, hosts Maddy Cope and coach Flo Tilley explore the intricate relationship between flow state, climbing performance, and mindset. Flow, often described as a state of effortless control and total absorption, is more than just a performance booster, it’s a transformative mental space where climbers feel deeply engaged and in sync with their challenges. Maddy and Flo dive into the science of flow, sharing practical techniques to cultivate this state by balancing skill and challenge, embracing playfulness, and applying mindfulness.

Listeners will also learn how self-compassion plays a pivotal role in allowing climbers to quiet self-criticism and focus on being present. The hosts discuss how coaching can facilitate an individual’s exploration of their personal experiences, leading to breakthroughs in both mental strategies and climbing performance. 

Whether you’re battling mental barriers or looking to improve your performance, this conversation will help you tap into the flow state and find joy in your climbing journey.

Takeaways:

• Flow is a natural experience that happens when skills and challenges align.
• Embracing playfulness and self-compassion can make it easier to access flow.
• Mindfulness helps slow down negative thoughts, creating space for peak performance.
• Coaching and self-reflection are powerful tools to enhance your mindset and approach to climbing.

🎧 Dive into this episode now and learn how to cultivate flow, conquer mental barriers, and bring more joy into your climbing. Link in bio!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Weightlifting in climbing. It’s one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we’re diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world.

In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport.

We’re talking to:

• Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams.
• Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset.
• Jemma Powell – A Lattice coach, mother of two, and former GB climber. Jemma specialises in coaching pregnant and postpartum athletes, helping them rebuild strength safely and sustainably. She also works with weekend warriors and performance climbers, with a strong focus on injury prevention, movement quality, and mindset.
• Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development.

You’ll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport:

• Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort.
•  Will Bosi shares why he’s not lifting right now, but might again soon.
•  Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep.

In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting, moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season.

We’ll cover:

• Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most)
• How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performance
  What female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength training
• Portable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-time
  The compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use them
• Why “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbing

Whether you’re curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level.

 🎧 Stay tuned for Part 2, where we dig deeper into hypertrophy, burnout, identity shifts, and the long

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

 In this intimate and deeply thoughtful conversation, climbing legends Tom Randall and Ollie Torr dive into the often unspoken realities behind long-term progression in climbing. From failed redpoints and painful finger joints to redefining success in the face of stress and burnout, this episode is a masterclass in psychological resilience and personal growth.

Tom opens up about one of his hardest trips to date, the shifting goalposts of elite performance, and how a mindset of "letting it brew" can lead to more rewarding outcomes - even in failure. Ollie brings his coaching lens to the table, unpacking how climbers can adjust training and expectations when life throws curveballs.

Whether you’re navigating injuries, balancing life and climbing, or just need a reminder that growth isn’t linear,  this one’s for you.

Key topics include:

• The psychology of projecting routes
• Why letting goals “brew” improves performance
• Pain tolerance and aging in climbing
• Balancing sponsorship with personal struggles
• Finding joy in the process, not just the send
  
  

 Tune in to hear how two of climbing’s most influential voices navigate the long road, and why the best projects take time.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Ollie Torr sits down with Drew Ruana, one of the strongest and most analytical climbers in the game today. Drew shares an unfiltered look into his training philosophy, his unique approach to projecting, and how he’s balancing high-level climbing with a degree in computer science.

From discussing his "Level 4 Beta" system of optimising climbing efficiency to deep-diving into the mental aspects of performance, burnout, and progression, this conversation explores what it takes to push climbing limits—both physically and mentally.

Other topics covered: 

• The role of structured vs. intuitive training
• How weightlifting and non-climbing strength work fuels his performance
• The mental side of climbing, burnout, and staying psyched long-term
• Why goal-setting and patience are the most underrated tools in high-performance climbing
• His long-term aspirations, including a book on climbing performance

Drew is known for sending some of the hardest boulders in the world, but in this conversation, we get a deeper look at the mindset and method behind his success.

🎧 Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts, Andy Cave, Maddy Cope, Tom Herbert, and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad?

The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense?

Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself:
🗣 “Before this podcast, I was taking 5g of creatine every day… now I’m taking none. Here’s why.”

Key Takeaways:

• Power vs. Endurance: How creatine impacts different climbing styles.
• Recovery & Performance: Does it actually speed up recovery and help you send harder?
• Creatine & Weight Gain: Busting myths about ‘bulking up’ in climbing.
• Flash Pump Debate: Real concern or exaggerated worry?
• Diet & Absorption: Does your diet affect how well creatine works?

Join us for a science-backed discussion on whether creatine is a must-have for climbers or just extra weight in your pack.

👉 Tune in now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen!

Edward Gibson-Smith's Data 👉  https://latticetraining.com/blog/creatine-podcast-supporting-visuals-by-dr-ed-gibson-smith/

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects.

Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines.

Key Takeaways:

• Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance.
• Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them.
• Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects.
• Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock.
• Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene.

👉 Don't miss this in-depth conversation with one of the world's leading climbers. Tune in now to gain valuable insights into the mindset, training, and perseverance behind some of the most challenging ascents in climbing history. Available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by coach and physiotherapist Stian Christophersen to dive deep into the art and science of injury management in climbing. Stian shares his insights on balancing the training load, understanding pain perception, and the psychological tools that aid recovery. From the importance of optimism and goal-setting to the evolving role of technology in rehabilitation, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers of all levels. 

Stian also dives into the fascinating concept of the “comfort crisis” – a phenomenon affecting modern athletes who avoid discomfort and challenges. He explains why stepping outside your comfort zone is essential for resilience, performance, and overall growth.

Key Takeaways:

• Pain doesn't always equal injury – learn the difference.
• Early loading for injuries: why it works and how to start.
• The importance of optimism in injury recovery and beyond.
• Balancing intensity and volume in climbing training.
• Managing training load to reduce injury risks and maximise performance.

👉 Don’t miss this deep dive into climbing injury management's practical and psychological aspects. Tune in now to learn how to train smarter, recover faster, and climb stronger. 

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode, Lattice coach Ella Russell chats with climbing icon Melissa Le Nevé to dive into her incredible journey from competition success to legendary outdoor ascents. Melissa shares her experiences, from claiming the first female ascent of the iconic Action Direct (9a / 5.14d) in the Frankenjura to her current project on the historic Dreamtime (8C / V15) in Ticino.

They explore Melissa’s unique approach to training, including her recent gains in finger strength, her passion for combining climbing with paragliding, and how she balances bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch routes like Le Voyage (E10 7a) and Delicatessen (8b / 5.13d). Whether you're seeking training inspiration or simply love hearing from the greats, this episode offers something for everyone.

Key Takeaways

• Melissa’s transition from competitions to iconic outdoor challenges.
• Behind the scenes of her first female ascent of Action Direct and her ongoing work on Dreamtime.
• The difference between French and British training approaches and how Melissa saw surprising finger strength gains.
• How paragliding complements her climbing lifestyle.
• Her plans for future projects, including Biography (9a+ / 5.15a) and Bon Voyage (9a E12).

Don’t miss this epic episode! Listen now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your favourite podcast platform.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In this episode of the Lattice Training Podcast, Coach Cam joins Maddy Cope to explore the ins and outs of endurance training for climbers, setting the record straight on common myths and highlighting what really works. With expertise spanning climbing physiology and performance, Cam and Maddy dive into how climbers can strategically improve endurance, whether through low-intensity steady state (LISS) training or high-intensity interval training (HIIT). Together, they discuss the importance of energy systems, the right mix of aerobic and anaerobic conditioning, and how climbers can self-experiment to personalize their training for maximum results.

Cam also introduces his structured, step-by-step self-experimentation process to help climbers hone their endurance training over time. With insights into recovery, progressive overload, and energy efficiency, this episode is packed with practical advice for climbers at every level.

Key Takeaways:

• Endurance training benefits both boulderers and sport climbers
• LISS vs. HIIT: How each impacts energy systems and performance
• Essential recovery strategies for improving endurance
• Why personalized, progressive training matters more than high-intensity alone
• Practical tips for tracking, testing, and evaluating training effectiveness

Whether you’re new to climbing or looking to break through a plateau, this episode equips you with the knowledge and tools to take your endurance training to the next level!

Links mentioned in the episode:
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/329814457_The_determination_of_finger_flexor_critical_force_in_rock_climbers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kwrzgg3jkFQ
https://latticetraining.com/blog/training-series-finger-strength/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeJc34LZIWI&t=800s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EY3XA7e-pw&t=645s

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.