Lattice Training Podcast

Get ready for an eye-opening episode! Hosts Josh Hadley and Jonny Kydd sit down with renowned physiotherapist Paul ‘Huffy’, a climbing injury expert with over 25 years of experience. He is known for attending the Olympics as Shauna Coxey’s physio, and for having an impressive track record in diagnosing and treating the range of injuries climbers face.

Discover the most misunderstood climbing injuries, common myths debunked, and get insider tips for effective rehab. Paul shares his insights of common injuries, both indoor and outdoor, drawing from his wealth of experience.

Ever wondered about Shauna Coxsey's physio secrets? Paul spills the beans on lessons learned, from elite climbing to influencing the culture of "training for climbing." Get ready for practical training advice straight from a climbing injury expert.

Topics include:

• Most misdiagnosed injuries in climbing?
• Unhelpful physio advice climbers should look out for? 
• Other than finger injuries, what are the most common injuries climber’s face?
• Lessons learned from being a physio to GB climbing star Shauna Coxey? 
• What do climbers keep getting wrong in the 'training for climbing' culture?
• Training advice, from top physio, which climbers everywhere can benefit from?

Ready to boost your knowledge of climbing injuries? Don't miss out on expert insights to enhance your climbing journey.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's podcast, host Tom Randall sits down with athlete Will Bosi, delving into his recent trip to Arco, Italy. Where Will was attempting to secure the second ascent of Excalibur (5.15c/9b+), and looking ahead at his plans for 2024 and his upcoming trip to the USA.

Reflecting on his multiple trips to his project Excalibur, Will gives an overview of his projecting strategies and how he coped with the challenging weather conditions (which when climbing at this level takes a lot of mental control!). Tom also drew on questions fans have sent to us, asking about Will's experiences during his trip to the Czech Republic, where he successfully sent Nova (8C/V15) while attempting Terranova (8C+/V16). Plus delving into, his thoughts on Simon Lorenzi’s beta on Burden of Dreams (9A/V17) in Finland. 

The podcast covers a range of topics, including:

• How to use replica training and optimise your climbing performance
• Navigating challenges and frustrations during a projecting trip when it feels the world is against you
• Defining success in the face of a non-sending trip
• Will Bosi's goals for his upcoming trip to the USA
• The importance of resting and effective skincare in climbing
• Simon Lorenzi’s insane beta on Burden of Dreams
• How a climber’s strengths influence their projecting strategies

And much more!

If you’re looking for more juicy insights on Will Bosi’s projecting strategies, or want to know what he is going to try next, head over to our podcast.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today’s podcast, host and coach Josh Hadley sits down with coaches Roz Frugtniet and Jonny Kydd to discuss their common mistakes, challenges, and tactics for climbing projects.

Roz is an experienced sport climber, having climbed multiple 8c routes and was the first British woman to flash 8a+ (Face de Rat, 8a+/5.13c, in Ceuse, France). Joined by, Jonny a renowned boulderer, who recently ticked his 5-year project that took him 110 sessions (The World is Yours, 8C/V15, in Biblins Cave, UK) showcasing his expertise in long-term projecting.

Their diverse backgrounds set the stage for an interesting conversation where the coaches share their distinct tactics and rituals for the crucial "send go!" Host and coach, Josh, explores the intricacies of bouldering while figuring out how many sessions is too little or too long to be considered a climb at your limit.

Other topics include:

• Unlocking the power of knowing your project's finish
• Harnessing video beta to its maximum potential for accelerated learning
• Strategising for non-sending sessions
• Managing the mental demands of longer-term climbing projects
• Discover the crucial role of a supportive climbing partner in your success

And much more!

So if you want to know more on how to improve your projecting session, head over to our podcast.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

In today's podcast, we have one of our athletes, Mary Eden, also known as @TradPrincess joining us with Tom Randall. She has recently achieved the first female ascent of one of the hardest roof crack climbs in the world, Black Mamba (5.14b/8c) in White Rim, Utah.

This route had its first ascent in 2019 by the Wideboyz, but it remained unrepeated until this year. The climbing powerhouse, who mentors many new crack climbers, wanted to take it a step further and attempt this gnarly route.

They talk through  Mary’s approach to climbing and training, highlighting how she has never thought of herself as a ‘talented’ or ‘natural’ climber. They delve into the lifestyle challenges that accompany training and climbing when pushing higher grades.

Key topics covered include:

• Mary's climbing journey and her limited knowledge of training methods in the early years
• How she embraces the concept of learning through failure and the impact this has had on her climbing
• How her approach to climbing and training differed as she progressed to 5.12a/f7a
• What training strategies did she adopt that propelled her into the 5.13a/f7c+ grades
• Sharing top tips she has learnt over five years of focusing on pushing her climbing performance

Want to hear more from Mary Eden and Tom Randall? Head over to our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Lor Sabourin has been in the climbing scene for a while now! They made the first no-falls ascent of the route, ‘Cousin of Death’ (5.13+/7c+) in Northern Arizona, back in 2020. Then in 2021, they did an impressive ascent of ‘East Coast Fist Bump’ (5.14a/8b+).

This was only the beginning though, this autumn, Lor outdid themselves by sending the infamous “Stranger Than Fiction” (5.14b/8c). This was the first redpoint since the first ascensionist Mason Earle sent the route in 2015.

Lor’s projecting process fascinated and continues to impress us here at Lattice, as they have a unique approach to dealing with the physical, mental and technical aspects of projecting complex routes over a long time period. Whilst Lattice has worked with many athletes over the years who’ve had season-long projects, it’s always remarkable to see someone achieve their multi-year project!

Key topics:

1. Lor finding and sampling ‘Stranger than Fiction’
2. Mental tools for dealing with the uncertainty of technical trad routes 
3. The type of training they did with their Lattice coach Maddy Cope
4. Using gratitude as a tool when long-term projecting
5. Juggling work with the climbing lifestyle
6. Tools they used to progress every season on ‘Stranger than Fiction’
7. How their training led to a leap in their bouldering grade

Want to learn more about how a Performance Coaching Plan can help you achieve your goals? Head over to the Lattice Training website to find out more!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today Tom Randall and Ollie Torr take a step back from being humble and name some of the biggest names Lattice has worked with.

They dive deep into the details behind Alex Honnold, Toby Roberts, and even Emily Harrington’s coaching. But these are just some of the major clients Lattice has worked with, so grab a cup of tea and tune in for a juicy podcast!

The main topics are:

• Are Pros all-rounders?
• Choosing priorities
• Is it better to climb or train more?
• Is it better to work finger strength on the wall or on a fingerboard?
• What type of endurance works best?

With lots of examples based on the notable climbers we work with.

What are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Today’s guest is Dan Hipkiss, the coach to 'The Stoltman Brothers', who have held multiple World’s Strongest Man titles, a few world records and multiple international competition podiums. Dan also coaches others in the sports of powerlifting, CrossFit and Olympic weightlifting, giving him a varied background in performance training.

Seeing that Dan also rock climbs, and understands the fundamentals of the sport, host Tom Randall invited him on to pick his brain in the hopes of learning new perspectives on training for climbing.

The main topics are:

• Frequency and volume of strength training
• Training weaknesses and de-prioritising strengths
• Injury prevention for strength athletes
• Using deload cycles as a tool for getting stronger

Want to learn more about how these sports can influence your climbing? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Tom Randall couldn’t be more excited because in today’s podcast, the Wideboyz have come together to discuss Pete Whittaker’s latest 9a Trad send, Crown Royale!

Tom and Pete discuss all the training behind this monstrous climb. Plus, they dive in into some of Pete’s assessment techniques before training, with Pete even spilling some key tips that helped him adapt his training for his project.

Key topics include:

• How Pete self assesses before training
• His training structure and how it has evolved
• Replica Training
• What he has learned from climbers with different strengths (i.e Magnus)
• How he stays motivated

What are you waiting for? You can find our podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more!

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Welcome to another exciting episode of 'This or That,' where our host, Tom Randall, is about to challenge our guest's climbing training preferences. Today's special guest is none other than Ollie Torr, the co-founder of Lattice and one of our world class coaches in the Lattice team.

While we all recognize Ollie for his exceptional coaching skills, what you may not know is that he brings a wealth of experience from his years in gymnastics and coaching training. His background equips him with a unique and expert perspective when tackling these rapid-fire questions. So, find a comfortable seat because Tom and Ollie are about to dive deep into the following debates:

-Kilterboard or Moonboard
-10mm or 20mm for finger strength
-ARC and continuity or high-intensity intervals for route climbers
-Low reps or high reps for building strength
-Starting young and specializing or beginning later and pursuing a broader approach
...and that's just the beginning. Stay tuned for a lively discussion on these topics and more!

Tune in to today's podcast, which is available on various platforms, including Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, etc., and learn from one of the best coaches out there.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Welcome back to the Lattice Training podcast! Today, we have Ollie Torr joining our host Tom Randall, for an insight into coaching V17 climbers, preparing for the Olympics and much more 😏

From coaching, Will Bosi and Toby Roberts, Tom and Ollie also have coached Tommy Caldwell and are coaching Alex Honnold for his next projects. So what is required from a coach to be able to help these high-end climbers? And how do you make the most of training when injured in order to keep at the top of your game?

Well, brew some tea and have a sit because these questions and many more will be answered in today's podcast 😉

Main topics:

- When does training 'weaknesses' stop being useful?
- How do climbers prepare for the Olympics?
- Game-changing exercises for climbing
- Most overrated climbing exercises
- How to make the most out of an injury and come back stronger?
- Coaching V17 climber?
-Replica training being at the cutting edge of climbing

Are you psyched to hear all about coaching some of the best climbers in the world? Tune in to today's podcast, which is available on various platforms, including Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, etc., and learn from one of the best coaches out there.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.