This week, we dive into a compelling episode featuring Tammy Wilson, an accomplished climber and endurance athlete.

Tammy shares her inspiring journey, from discovering climbing in the midst of a snowboarding career to sustaining and overcoming knee injuries, all while incorporating strength training to bolster her performance.

Join us as Tammy discusses the transformative impact of strength training on her climbing, running, and overall fitness. She reveals how gaining nearly 20 pounds of muscle not only improved her climbing abilities but also helped her recover faster from injuries.

Natasha engages Tammy in a conversation filled with practical insights and empowering advice. Whether you're an experienced climber or just setting foot into the gym, Tammy's story will motivate you to take your training and climbing to the next level. Don’t miss out on this episode filled with strength training wisdom and climbing passion.

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Today we have a remarkable guest who embodies the perfect balance of elite climbing and strength training. Kelly Birch, a climber who has sent routes up to V14 and has a background in competitive powerlifting. Kelly shares her insightful journey, describing how balancing strength training with climbing has boosted her performance on the rock. In this episode, we'll delve into the details of her training, debunk common myths about lifting, and uncover strategies for incorporating strength training without compromising climbing time. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or just starting, this conversation is packed with valuable tips that will inspire you to elevate your training game.

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In today’s episode, we're tackling an important topic that often goes misunderstood in the world of sports and fitness: the complex role of imaging, specifically MRIs, in diagnosing and managing injuries.

From overuse in healthcare to the startling impact it can have on your psychology and treatment plan, we'll delve into why caution is crucial when considering an MRI. We’ll discuss surprising findings about the prevalence of shoulder abnormalities among elite rock climbers and how these often don’t correlate with pain or performance issues.

We’ll also share an inspiring case study where a climber managed a significant shoulder condition with targeted strength training, avoiding surgery altogether. You’ll hear why imaging isn’t always the best first step for pain management, especially given the high rates of ‘abnormal’ findings in asymptomatic individuals, and how these can lead to unnecessary anxiety and interventions.

Join us as we explore the broader landscape of medical imaging, offering practical advice on when it’s really necessary and stressing the importance of professional assessments. We’ll also touch on the resilience of the human body and how functional recovery should take center stage in your injury rehabilitation journey. Let’s dive in!

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In this latest episode of the Strong AF Podcast, we dive deep into the transformative world of pelvic health with our guest expert, Dr. Annemarie Everett, DPT, UCSF grad, a specialist in pelvic floor care, WCS Emeritus (board certified women's health specialist). Together we explore how integrating movement and strength training into pelvic health treatments is changing the game for patients and professionals alike.

What You'll Learn:

Takeaways:

Special Mention: We also cover critical topics like urinary habits, toileting techniques, and other tools to help manage symptoms effectively.

Sneak Peek at Our Next Episode: Next time, we’ll tackle pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, ensuring you’re prepared for all stages of life with confidence.

Tune in Now!

Citations:

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In today's episode, we're tackling a mindset hurdle that many of us face: the "all or nothing" thinking. This common cognitive distortion can throw a wrench into our training consistency, making us believe that it's either perfection or failure. From skipping workouts because of lack of time or equipment, to feeling like one missed session ruins an entire week, it's a mindset that can seriously sabotage long-term progress.

We'll dive into tips and strategies to overcome this, such as doing at least one exercise even when pressed for time, spreading your workouts throughout the week, and keeping quick energy snacks like protein bars or fruit snacks on hand for those low-energy days. We'll also explore how tools like Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) can help you adapt your training in real-time based on how you feel, ensuring you're always moving forward, no matter what.

Plus, we’ll touch on how to creatively maintain your training routine even when your environment or available equipment changes—think using water bottles or even backpacks loaded with rocks for resistance training! And for all my climbers out there, we'll discuss how to track your climbing-specific progress using apps like KAYA.

Whether you're in the gym, at home, or on the go, today's episode is packed with actionable advice to help you break free from the all-or-nothing trap and keep making gains. So let's get into it!

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In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes addresses common concerns climbers have about weight and strength training. Many climbers worry that gaining muscle will make them heavier, potentially hindering their climbing performance. Natasha reassures listeners that it is possible to gain strength without significant weight gain. In fact, strength training can help climbers feel stronger and perform better, even if the scale shows a slight increase in weight.

Key points discussed include:

Weight Concerns: Many climbers are anxious about gaining weight, but strength training often leads to weight loss or no significant weight gain due to increased activity levels.

Realistic Expectations: Most climbers don't need to worry about gaining weight from strength training.

Benefits of Strength Training: Strength gains from a structured program can outweigh any minor weight increase, leading to better climbing performance.

Professional Athletes vs. Regular Climbers: Natasha highlights the difference between professional athletes, who may sacrifice health for performance, and regular climbers, who should prioritize overall well-being.

Personal Experience: Natasha shares personal experiences with disordered eating and the realization that sustainable performance improvement is more important than weight loss.

Foundational Strength Program: Natasha's transformational program helps climbers gain significant strength, making them feel lighter and more capable on the wall. The re-launch of this program is happening THIS MONTH!

The episode aims to dispel myths about weight and strength training, encouraging climbers to embrace strength programs to enhance their climbing ability and resilience.

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Join me in this podcast episode as I share the incredible journey of blending climbing and powerlifting in my life. I'll take you through the highs, lows, and transformative moments that emerged from the unique synergy of these two dynamic disciplines. Explore the unexpected connections, the physical and mental strength gained, and the profound insights discovered while navigating climbing and the sport of powerlifting.

Look out for the special announcement at the end!

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In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes, your host and strength and rehab coach for climbers, discusses the importance of inseason strength training for climbers. Here are the key takeaways:

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In this episode, we'll be exploring the relationship between posture and muscle imbalances in climbers, and how it relates to pain and injury. We'll uncover some fascinating insights from recent studies that challenge traditional beliefs about posture and muscle imbalances.

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Did you know that our minds have the power to reverse the effects of a powerful opioid? That's right, a drug that can numb our pain can also be counteracted by our own thoughts and beliefs. You're probably wondering, how is this possible?

It all comes down to the incredible complexity of how pain works and the intricate dance between our brains and bodies. Pain is not purely a physical sensation. It's a multifaceted experience rooted deep within our nervous system. And we're going to explore just how much control we have over this experience.

Whether you're a climber or simply looking for ways to deal with pain, this episode will give you the tools and knowledge to reframe pain and work around it during training. Let's dive in!

[00:02:04] Injury is inevitable for athletes; normalize it.

[00:08:38] Powerful pain expectations reverse drug effects.

[00:12:50] Power of the mind affects opioid potency.

[00:17:35] Reframe pain, retrain response, address unhelpful thoughts.

[00:22:50] Use CBT techniques to create and "evidence sheet", challenge negative beliefs and cognitive distortions.

[00:23:43] Research suggests slap tears may not cause pain.

[00:30:48] Self efficacy in rehab leads to better pain outcomes.

[00:35:16] When to seek professional guidance.

[00:41:48] Exercise even directly after surgery improves outcomes.

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