Join us as we delve into the topic of shoulder pain among climbers. In this episode, Natasha shares insights on the prevalence of shoulder injuries, the impact on climbers' lives, and the surprising statistics that reveal just how common these issues are. Discover personal stories and what the science has to say about why these injuries happen.

Key Topics:

• The anatomy of the shoulder and its role in climbing
• Common shoulder injuries and their high prevalence among climbers
• Personal experiences and stories from dealing with shoulder pain
• The impact of shoulder pain on daily life and climbing performance
• Debunking common myths climbers are told about why the have shoulder pain
• Diving into some climbing specific research on shoulder pain, posture and scapular dyskinesis

#Climbing #ShoulderPain #InjuryPrevention

If you found this episode helpful, please share it with fellow climbers who might benefit from these insights. Don't forget to subscribe for more episodes on climbing health and performance. Stay tuned for PART II!

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In this episode Natasha emphasizes the significance of consistency in training, discussing how it leads to long-term progress. She addresses common mental barriers like black and white thinking, encourages the creation of a minimum viable training plan, and highlights the importance of discipline over motivation. She also explains that progress is not linear and that fluctuations in performance are normal. She provides strategies for maintaining flexibility in training plans and adapting to life's challenges while staying committed to training goals.

Chapters

00:00 The Importance of Consistency in Training

03:06 Overcoming Black and White Thinking

04:53 Creating a Minimum Viable Training Plan

07:21 Discipline Over Motivation

10:01 Flexibility in Training Plans

12:15 Understanding Non-Linear Progress

15:19 The Role of Volume in Training

18:30 Embracing Fluctuations in Performance

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Today I’m pulling back the curtain on what the Foundational Strength Training Program actually is.

Because if you’ve ever looked at it and thought, “Eh, I could just get a program like this on ChatGPT or in a climbing training book” you are exactly who this episode is for.

Summary

In this episode, I’m diving into what the Foundational Strength Program (FSP) is really all about. This isn’t just a list of exercises, it’s a full support system designed to help climbers stay consistent with strength training all year long. I talk about why flexibility, coaching, and community are key to making real progress, and I walk you through everything that’s included in the program, from seasonal tracks and time-crunch options to workshops, pain and injury guidance, and free form checks in our private Discord. I also share who this program is designed for, who it’s probably not a great fit for, and why that clarity matters when you’re thinking about your long-term goals as a climber.

Takeaways

• The FSP is designed as a full support system for climbers.
• Many online programs fail to adapt to real-life situations.
• Strength training benefits not only climbing performance but also overall health.
• The FSP includes 15 different training programs for various needs.
• Community support is crucial for maintaining motivation and consistency.
• Workshops in the FSP help climbers become more independent in their training.
• Goal setting and planning are essential for long-term success.
• The program is not for those seeking quick fixes or handholding.
• Life's unpredictability requires a flexible training approach.

Chapters

00:00 Introduction to the Foundational Strength Program

02:50 The Importance of Real-Life Flexibility in Training

06:06 Comprehensive Support and Resources in the FSP

08:58 Understanding Who the FSP is For

11:50 Enrollment and Community Support in the FSP

15:04 Conclusion and Call to Action

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strength training, climbing, FSP, coaching, injury prevention, fitness program, auto-regulation, community support, goal setting, training flexibility

Takeaways from the episode:

• Strength training is essential for climbers.
• Feeling wiped out after lifting indicates a need for capacity building.
• General physical preparedness (GPP) is crucial for handling both climbing and lifting.
• Recovery involves sleep, nutrition, and proper training volume.
• Climbers should not jump into high-volume strength programs too quickly.
• Off-season training is vital for long-term climbing success.
• Planning your training year is important for maintaining performance.
• You can still climb while focusing on strength training.
• Nutrition plays a key role in recovery and performance.
• Strength training should complement climbing, not compete with it.

Summary:

In this episode of the Strong AF Climbing Podcast, Natasha discusses the importance of strength training for climbers and addresses common misconceptions about its impact on climbing performance. She emphasizes that if strength training consistently leaves climbers feeling sore or fatigued, it may indicate a lack of capacity or recovery rather than a flaw in the training itself. Natasha outlines the importance of building general physical preparedness (GPP), ensuring adequate recovery through sleep and nutrition, and the necessity of planning off-seasons for long-term success in climbing. She encourages climbers to adopt a balanced approach to training that supports their climbing goals without overwhelming their bodies.

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In this episode, Natasha discusses the common reasons why training plans fail and offers practical strategies to create more realistic and flexible training schedules.

She emphasizes the importance of mindset shifts, the concept of a 'minimum viable week', and how to adapt plans to fit real-life challenges. The conversation highlights the need for consistency over perfection and provides insights into building sustainable training habits for climbers.

Takeaways

• Most training plans fail because they are idealistic rather than realistic.
• Flexibility in training plans is crucial for consistency.
• Missing a session does not equate to failure; it's part of the process.
• Reframing setbacks can help maintain motivation and progress.
• Mental contrasting helps visualize both goals and obstacles.
• A minimum viable week allows for training even during chaotic times.
• Building a plan that accounts for real-life challenges is essential.
• Consistency is more important than perfection in training.
• Having a backup plan can prevent burnout and frustration.
• Training should be adaptable to fit individual lifestyles and commitments.

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What does it really mean to be a lifer in climbing? Is strength training just a trend, or is it the key to climbing longevity?

In this episode, I sit down with climbing coach and longtime boulderer Jesse Firestone to talk about how his approach to training has evolved over nearly two decades. We dive into the hard lessons from injuries, the shift from chasing grades to building a sustainable climbing life, and why more climbers should be embracing strength training.

🔹 Why Jesse started lifting—and why he kept lifting
🔹 The myth that climbers don’t need strength training
🔹 How to balance training with projecting & performance seasons
🔹 The mental shift from short-term goals to long-term progression
🔹 The reality of climbing longevity (and why many pros don’t talk about it)

Jesse has coached climbers worldwide, and his take on auto-regulation, RPE, and long-term performance is something every dedicated climber needs to hear. Whether you’re deep in a climbing obsession or trying to figure out how to climb for life, this episode is for you.

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This week, we dive into a compelling episode featuring Tammy Wilson, an accomplished climber and endurance athlete.

Tammy shares her inspiring journey, from discovering climbing in the midst of a snowboarding career to sustaining and overcoming knee injuries, all while incorporating strength training to bolster her performance.

Join us as Tammy discusses the transformative impact of strength training on her climbing, running, and overall fitness. She reveals how gaining nearly 20 pounds of muscle not only improved her climbing abilities but also helped her recover faster from injuries.

Natasha engages Tammy in a conversation filled with practical insights and empowering advice. Whether you're an experienced climber or just setting foot into the gym, Tammy's story will motivate you to take your training and climbing to the next level. Don’t miss out on this episode filled with strength training wisdom and climbing passion.

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Today we have a remarkable guest who embodies the perfect balance of elite climbing and strength training. Kelly Birch, a climber who has sent routes up to V14 and has a background in competitive powerlifting. Kelly shares her insightful journey, describing how balancing strength training with climbing has boosted her performance on the rock. In this episode, we'll delve into the details of her training, debunk common myths about lifting, and uncover strategies for incorporating strength training without compromising climbing time. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or just starting, this conversation is packed with valuable tips that will inspire you to elevate your training game.

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In today’s episode, we're tackling an important topic that often goes misunderstood in the world of sports and fitness: the complex role of imaging, specifically MRIs, in diagnosing and managing injuries.

From overuse in healthcare to the startling impact it can have on your psychology and treatment plan, we'll delve into why caution is crucial when considering an MRI. We’ll discuss surprising findings about the prevalence of shoulder abnormalities among elite rock climbers and how these often don’t correlate with pain or performance issues.

We’ll also share an inspiring case study where a climber managed a significant shoulder condition with targeted strength training, avoiding surgery altogether. You’ll hear why imaging isn’t always the best first step for pain management, especially given the high rates of ‘abnormal’ findings in asymptomatic individuals, and how these can lead to unnecessary anxiety and interventions.

Join us as we explore the broader landscape of medical imaging, offering practical advice on when it’s really necessary and stressing the importance of professional assessments. We’ll also touch on the resilience of the human body and how functional recovery should take center stage in your injury rehabilitation journey. Let’s dive in!

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In this latest episode of the Strong AF Podcast, we dive deep into the transformative world of pelvic health with our guest expert, Dr. Annemarie Everett, DPT, UCSF grad, a specialist in pelvic floor care, WCS Emeritus (board certified women's health specialist). Together we explore how integrating movement and strength training into pelvic health treatments is changing the game for patients and professionals alike.

What You'll Learn:

Takeaways:

Special Mention: We also cover critical topics like urinary habits, toileting techniques, and other tools to help manage symptoms effectively.

Sneak Peek at Our Next Episode: Next time, we’ll tackle pelvic health during pregnancy and postpartum, ensuring you’re prepared for all stages of life with confidence.

Tune in Now!

Citations:

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