In this episode, we'll be exploring the relationship between posture and muscle imbalances in climbers, and how it relates to pain and injury. We'll uncover some fascinating insights from recent studies that challenge traditional beliefs about posture and muscle imbalances.

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Did you know that our minds have the power to reverse the effects of a powerful opioid? That's right, a drug that can numb our pain can also be counteracted by our own thoughts and beliefs. You're probably wondering, how is this possible?

It all comes down to the incredible complexity of how pain works and the intricate dance between our brains and bodies. Pain is not purely a physical sensation. It's a multifaceted experience rooted deep within our nervous system. And we're going to explore just how much control we have over this experience.

Whether you're a climber or simply looking for ways to deal with pain, this episode will give you the tools and knowledge to reframe pain and work around it during training. Let's dive in!

[00:02:04] Injury is inevitable for athletes; normalize it.

[00:08:38] Powerful pain expectations reverse drug effects.

[00:12:50] Power of the mind affects opioid potency.

[00:17:35] Reframe pain, retrain response, address unhelpful thoughts.

[00:22:50] Use CBT techniques to create and "evidence sheet", challenge negative beliefs and cognitive distortions.

[00:23:43] Research suggests slap tears may not cause pain.

[00:30:48] Self efficacy in rehab leads to better pain outcomes.

[00:35:16] When to seek professional guidance.

[00:41:48] Exercise even directly after surgery improves outcomes.

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In this episode, we'll be discussing various strategies for warming up for your strength training session. Plus, we'll touch on the importance of using RPE (Rating of Perceived Exertion) to accurately gauge your effort level and adjust your training accordingly. So get ready to get warmed up and let's dive in!

RPE calculator

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Autoregulation is a game-changer when it comes to achieving optimal results in your workouts. It involves dynamically adjusting your training intensity based on your performance, rather than sticking to a rigid plan.

By using a subjective rating scale, known as the Rating of Perceived Exertion (RPE), you can select the appropriate training load to maximize your gains.

But why is autoregulation so important? Well, it's because strength and fatigue levels can vary from day to day. By autoregulating your training, you can adapt to your body's current state, ensuring that you're pushing yourself enough without risking burnout or injury. It's all about finding that sweet spot where you're challenging yourself, but not crossing the line into overexertion.

Today, we'll uncover the ins and outs of autoregulation and how it can revolutionize your training routine. We'll discuss the benefits of rest, the dangers of overshooting sets, and why going to failure isn't always necessary for strength gains.

Join us as we delve into the world of autoregulation and discover how this powerful tool can take your training to new heights. So grab your headphones, find a comfortable spot, and get ready for another episode of the Strong AF Podcast. Let's do this!

00:01:31 Adjusting training intensity based on performance fluctuations.

00:05:20 One rep max tests can be invalid. Basing training off of them is not ideal.

00:08:06 Auto regulate your training using various methods.

00:10:27 RPE: Perceived exertion for effective strength training.

00:26:40 Use RPE to gauge load accurately.

00:33:35 Standard warm-up improves consistency in training.

00:42:58 New programs launching soon

RPE is a valid and reliable way to measure training

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In today's episode, we dive deep into the world of programming for strength training, specifically tailored for climbers. Our host, Dr. Natasha Barnes, will take us through a narrative review that focuses on designing a time-efficient training program for climbers without sacrificing valuable climbing practice.

With the recognition that lack of time is a common barrier to effective strength training, Natasha explores the research on acute training variables, training techniques, warmup strategies, and the use of compound exercises in strength training.

But it doesn't stop there. Natasha will guide us through the essential components of designing a program, including exercises selection, set and rep guidelines, and the importance of progressive overload. We'll also uncover the American Physical Activity Guidelines and the NSCA recommendations to ensure we're setting our climbers up for success.

But it's not just about reps and sets—proper nutrition plays a vital role in achieving those strength training goals. Natasha will discuss the importance of increasing calorie intake, prioritizing protein and carbohydrates to build muscle mass, and how to avoid weight loss while adding more training to your program.

Join us as we explore the most effective exercises, debunk misconceptions, and unlock the secrets to maximizing strength training for climbing. Get ready to climb stronger and train smarter on this episode of the Strong AF Podcast!

00:02:15 Start simple, progress later, consider coach.

00:03:56 Simple strength training program guidelines for progress.

00:07:58 Increase calories for training, eat more.

00:11:36 Prioritize compound exercises, machines or free weights.

00:14:16 Training frequency is less important than volume.

00:18:07 Avoid lengthy warm ups; start light.

00:22:48 Criteria: compound movements, effective weight usage.

00:26:43 Effective movements maximize weight and range of motion.

00:34:21 The slot concept.

00:35:57 Supplemental and assistance exercises for strength training.

00:46:33 Exercise intensity. Going to failure every time is not necessary and can lead to excessive fatigue and hinder recovery.

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Powerlifting competition recap. We talk about:

This probably won't be the MOST listened to episode but it was requested but listeners. Skip this one if you don't care about powerlifting. Next week we have an episode on strength training programming dropping so stay tuned!

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In this episode we’re going to talk about:

Strength training as superior, dose-dependent and safe prevention of acute and overuse sports injuries: a systematic review, qualitative analysis and meta-analysis 

The association of resistance training with mortality: A systematic review and meta-analysis

ACSM Guidelines for Strength Training | Featured Download

The Minimum Effective Training Dose Required to Increase 1RM Strength in Resistance-Trained Men: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis

Physical Activity Guidelines

Metrics for Climbers | Strength and Endurance Standards from our Data - Power Company Climbing

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Introducing the STRONG AF Climbing Podcast with your host Dr. Natasha Barnes. A podcast for climbers about managing injuries, getting stronger, and becoming more resilient! In this episode, we talk about what the podcast is going to be about, schedule for the podcast, format, and what else you can expect from this podcast.

Mentioned in this podcast:

Tom Herbert

Kiley (Ky) Burnett

The Struggle Climbing Show - Ryan Devlin

The Nugget Climbing Podcast - Steven Dimmitt

The Power Company Podcast - Kris Hampton & Nate Drolet

The Messy Middle Podcast - Dr. Alyssa Olenick

Lady Beta Podcast/Ambition Entrepreneur Podcast - Chelsea Murn 

The Training Beta Podcast - Neely Quinn

The Clinical Athlete Podcast - Quinn, Jared, John

The Progression Health Podcast - Ross

Adaptabilia - Mason & Chris

You Are Made For More Podcast - Heather Campbell

The Foundational Strength Program for Climbers