By Jared Vagy
4.4
77 ratings
The podcast currently has 17 episodes available.
In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury to rule out serious complications. Rest for no more than 48 hours after a concussion, as prolonged rest may slow down recovery. Follow a structured return to climbing protocol, gradually increasing intensity and monitoring symptoms. Engage in aerobic exercise as part of concussion recovery, as it has been shown to be beneficial. Consult with a physical therapist for guidance and exercises to aid in concussion rehabilitation.
Chapters
Stacey's Bio
Stacey received her doctorate in physical therapy from California State University in Long Beach. Originally from Palos Verdes, she is a Southern California native and a lifetime athlete. A former competitive gymnast, varsity long distance runner, and avid snowboarder; she found rock climbing 4 years ago and has fallen in love with the sport. She was a member of the Climbing Special Interest Group while in PT school, where she gained valuable experience in learning to treat climbing specific injuries and wrote an article on returning to climbing after concussion after sustaining a concussion herself and struggling to get back on the wall. She currently works in the Orthopedic and Sports setting and has also worked as a Strength and Conditioning coach, and uses her fitness background to help athletes of all ages and levels stay active and doing what they love.
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Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Injury Rehab Coures
In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for climbers dealing with tendon injuries.
Takeaways
Evan Ingerson’s Bio
Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries.
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Social Media and Webpage:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Injury Rehab Coures
In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR/L, shares valuable insights and strategies for climbers to prevent injuries, improve technique, and enhance performance. The conversation covers the benefits of climbing, common injuries, warm-up and stretching exercises, mental preparation, building strength and endurance, and the importance of recovery and rest. Beth emphasizes the importance of proper technique, body awareness, and listening to your body's signals. She provides practical exercises and tips that can be applied both in climbing and in everyday life. Overall, this conversation provides a comprehensive guide to climbing injury prevention and performance optimization.
Takeaways
Beth Scott's Bio
Chapters
Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps.
CONTACT BETH SCOTT: [email protected]
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Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Injury Rehab Coures
Contact Steve Smith: [email protected]
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Social Media and Webpage:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Injury Rehab Coures
In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience.
Takeaways
Evan Ingerson’s Bio
Links and Resources for This Episode:
Social Media and Webpage:
Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
Injury Rehab Coures
Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers:
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Listen Arno Ilgner is a distinguished rock climber and first ascensionist, perhaps most well known as the author of The Rock Warrior's Way. Through his best selling work, Arno outlines his methodologies emphasizing mental training to help his students and readers improve their awareness, focus attention, and understand their athletic (and life) challenges within a coherent, learning-based philosophy of intelligent risk-taking. In this interview with The Climbing Doctor, Arno discusses his history, mental aspects of climbing, and injury management. This episode covers:
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Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers:
Robyn's Bio: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou is a 4-time Climbing World Cup champion, 5 time U.S.A champion, and the third female climber to send 5.14a. She has been coaching since 1993 and has served as the head coach for the USA Climbing Youth Team. Additionally, Robyn is the founder of ABC Kids Climbing, an institution that has included the likes of Brooke Raboutou, Colin Duffy, Margo Hayes, and Natalia Grossman.
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Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor interviews Tom Randall! Tom is the founder of, as well as coach of Lattice Training, a comprehensive training platform for rock climbing. Watch as Tom pulls from his vast experiences as a high level climber and coach to discuss training methodology, injury prevention, and more! This episode covers:
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Listen as The Climbing Doctor interviews Kris Hampton on all topics related to climbing and injuries. They go deep on Kris's experience with shoulder and hamstring injuries, what he does to climb strong without getting hurt, common technique errors with climbing, and balancing technique drills with hard climbing. This episode covers:
Kris Hampton's Bio: Kris became a student of movement by watching gymnasts train at a facility near the neighborhood where he grew up. He saved his own money, took a class, and in a short time, was teaching tumbling classes and coaching men's gymnastics. In 1994, Kris found rock climbing, and after a decade as a trad climber, and a short break from climbing, discovered the joy of the gymnastic movement that is sport climbing and bouldering. To make up for the time away from the sport, at age 33, Kris began to get serious about training for climbing. At 40, he climbed his first 5.14, and at 44, his first V11, both of which are grades that seemed mythical when he first began climbing. He doesn't believe that the progression will end there. Seeing his success, Kris's friends asked for training plans. Then readers of the blog asked for training plans. Now he's written plans for thousands of climbers all over the world, and gets just as much satisfaction from their successes as he does his own.
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The podcast currently has 17 episodes available.
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