In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury.

Steve Smith's Bio

• Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return patients to their highest level of athletic abilities. Steve works in an academic Orthopedic and Sports Medicine setting and, in his free time, acts as a training and injury risk reduction consultant to local competitive and recreational climbers. He currently lives in Huntington, WV with his wife, son and daughter.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction to Energy System Training
• 04:30 Understanding Limited Resources in Training
• 10:17 Muscle Contractions and Their Importance
• 17:03 Energy Systems Overview
• 24:33 Components of Energy System Training
• 29:56 Practical Applications of Training
• 33:54 Understanding Climbing Intensity and Training
• 39:36 Exploring Strength Endurance and Pump Training
• 47:29 Assessing and Programming for Climbing Training
• 50:48 Needs Analysis in Climbing Training
• 01:03:34 Key Takeaways for Effective Climbing Training

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 📥 Energy Systems Training Downloadable Resource
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbing-specific exercises to prevent meniscal injuries in climbers.

Joshua Foster's Bio

Josh Foster is a Doctor of Physical Therapy with a passion for movement and health, beginning his journey in 2001 when he discovered climbing. He has been deeply embedded in the climbing community for over 20 years, starting as a youth competitor who reached the national level in high school. He spent 12 years setting routes and more than a decade as a youth competitive climbing coach, where he facilitated success for new athletes and national champions.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction
• 01:23 What is a meniscal injury and how do climbers get them?
• 06:52 Diagnosis and treatment of meniscal injuries
• 09:00 Rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries
• 22:47 Movement patterns and climbing-specific exercises
• 30:35 Preventing meniscal injuries in climbers

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading stage, initial loading stage, dynamic and plyometric stage, and fear avoidance. The conversation concludes with a reminder to seek professional help if needed and to prioritize ankle health to prevent chronic instability and future injuries.

Nicholas Hedges's Bio

• Nic Hedges has a Doctorate in Chiropractic as well as a Masters degree in Sport Science and Rehabilitation. Since graduating chiropractic school, Nic has taught anatomy and physiology at Colorado Mountain College. He was also a member of the climbing special interest group, which provided him the opportunity to collaborate with other professionals in a niche sport. He is now the proud owner and operator of Synergy Sports Clinic in Grand Junction, Colorado. When he’s not working in clinic, he can be found climbing in rifle or trail running.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction and Background
• 01:30 The Importance of the Lower Body in Climbing
• 06:19 The Consequences of Ankle Sprains
• 08:02 Self-Assessment for Ankle Susceptibility and Injury Risk Reduction
• 11:33 Testing Ankle Mobility and Function
• 14:26 Teasing Out the Different Systems Involved in Balance
• 21:09 Benchmarking and Comparing Balance Performance
• 22:39 Case Study: Sprained Ankles in a Climbing Gym
• 22:46 Importance of Assessing and Addressing the Ankle
• 27:05 Determining the Severity of an Ankle Injury
• 35:30 Stages of Ankle Rehabilitation
• 44:05 Closing Thoughts on Ankle Sprains and Rock Climbing

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Kimmy shares her approach to rehab, which includes gradually building mobility and strength in a progressive manner. They emphasize the need for individualized exercises and the importance of pain management during the rehab process.

Kimmy Wiley's Bio

• Kimmy Wiley is a doctor of physical therapy and owner of Peak Pursuit Performance & Rehab- an online physical therapy and strength and conditioning service for outdoor athletes. While Kimmy has had experience in most physical therapy settings, she has found a passion for sports therapy- specifically for adventure sport athletics. During the winter months Kimmy travels with the U.S. Snowboard Halfpipe Team, helping them stay happy and healthy as they travel the world for training camps and competitions. When at home in Salt Lake, Kimmy can be found in the Wasatch Mountains climbing, snowboarding, or hiking with her dog, Nomad.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction and Background
• 08:41 Rehabilitation Approach
• 25:16 Returning to Climbing and Specific Movements
• 32:32 Conclusion and Contact Information

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

This conversation explores the impact of the menstrual cycle on training and climbing performance. The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, each characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, when estrogen levels are higher, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. In contrast, the luteal phase, with higher progesterone levels, may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding these phases can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of their performance fluctuations. Coaches and partners can also consider these factors when working with female climbers. Takeaways The menstrual cycle consists of different phases, including the follicular and luteal phases, characterized by hormonal changes. During the follicular phase, climbers may benefit from intense strength training and challenging climbs. The luteal phase may be a time for focusing on mobility, technique, and lower-intensity exercises. Understanding the menstrual cycle can help climbers tailor their training programs and be more forgiving of performance fluctuations.

 

Katrina Wong's Bio Currently, Katrina is a resident in orthopedics at Kaiser, where she is dedicated to expanding her knowledge and honing her skills. Katrina is slowly building her foundation and working to make positive contributions to both the climbing and physical therapy communities. 

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction
• 02:12 Understanding the Menstrual Cycle
• 04:16 Awareness of Menstrual Cycle Phases
• 06:07 Hormones and their Roles
• 08:46 Training in the Follicular Phase
• 12:09 Effects of the Menstrual Cycle
• 19:17 Positive Aspects of the Luteal Phase
• 23:17 Training Recommendations for Different Phases
• 25:47 Considerations for Coaches and Partners 
• 26:33 Personal Variability in Cycle Phases
• 28:35 Final Thoughts 

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this conversation, Stacey Castaldo shares her personal experience with concussion and discusses the signs, symptoms, and rehabilitation of concussions in rock climbing. She emphasizes the importance of seeking medical attention and getting screened after a head injury. Stacey also highlights the structured return to climbing protocol and the role of physical therapy exercises in concussion recovery. The key takeaways include wearing a helmet, resting for no more than 48 hours, and seeking professional guidance for rehabilitation. Takeaways Wear a helmet while climbing to reduce the risk of head injuries. Seek medical attention and get screened after a head injury to rule out serious complications. Rest for no more than 48 hours after a concussion, as prolonged rest may slow down recovery. Follow a structured return to climbing protocol, gradually increasing intensity and monitoring symptoms. Engage in aerobic exercise as part of concussion recovery, as it has been shown to be beneficial. Consult with a physical therapist for guidance and exercises to aid in concussion rehabilitation.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction and Background
• 01:14 Stacey's Personal Experience with Concussion
• 03:00 Signs and Symptoms of Concussion
• 08:00 Seeking Medical Attention and Diagnosis
• 11:00 Rehabilitation and Return to Climbing
• 24:00 Structured Return to Climbing Protocol
• 32:00 Physical Therapy Exercises for Concussion Recovery
• 38:00 Key Takeaways and Recommendations

Stacey's Bio

Stacey received her doctorate in physical therapy from California State University in Long Beach. Originally from Palos Verdes, she is a Southern California native and a lifetime athlete. A former competitive gymnast, varsity long distance runner, and avid snowboarder; she found rock climbing 4 years ago and has fallen in love with the sport. She was a member of the Climbing Special Interest Group while in PT school, where she gained valuable experience in learning to treat climbing specific injuries and wrote an article on returning to climbing after concussion after sustaining a concussion herself and struggling to get back on the wall. She currently works in the Orthopedic and Sports setting and has also worked as a Strength and Conditioning coach, and uses her fitness background to help athletes of all ages and levels stay active and doing what they love. 

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this episode, we invite Evan Ingerson back o the show to discuss the topic of tendons and tendon injuries, with a focus on climbers. He explains the structure and function of tendons, the different types of tendon injuries, and the causes and symptoms of these injuries. He also discusses the differences between tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy, and provides guidelines for their treatment and rehabilitation. He emphasizes the importance of rest and proper loading techniques in the healing process and provides insights into the expected healing time for tendon injuries. Overall, this conversation provides valuable information and advice for climbers dealing with tendon injuries.

Takeaways

• Tendons are the connective tissue that connects muscles to bone and play a crucial role in movement.
• Tendon injuries are common in climbers, with the most common areas being the elbow, rotator cuff, biceps, and hamstring.
• Tendonitis, tendinosis, and tendinopathy are different types of tendon injuries, each requiring a different approach to treatment and rehabilitation.
• Rest and proper loading techniques are essential for the healing of tendon injuries, and the progression of rehabilitation should be guided by the individual's symptoms and response to treatment.

Evan Ingerson’s Bio

Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries.

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this conversation, Beth Scott, an occupational therapist and passionate climber, discusses mental health in climbing and provides practical techniques for improving mental well-being. The conversation covers topics such as understanding mental health for climbers, the importance of grounding exercises, breathing techniques, and building community for mental health support. Beth emphasizes the need to address mental health in a holistic manner and provides tangible strategies that climbers can incorporate into their climbing practice. Overall, the conversation highlights the significance of mental health in climbing and offers valuable insights for climbers of all levels. In this conversation, Beth Scott, OTR/L, shares valuable insights and strategies for climbers to prevent injuries, improve technique, and enhance performance. The conversation covers the benefits of climbing, common injuries, warm-up and stretching exercises, mental preparation, building strength and endurance, and the importance of recovery and rest. Beth emphasizes the importance of proper technique, body awareness, and listening to your body's signals. She provides practical exercises and tips that can be applied both in climbing and in everyday life. Overall, this conversation provides a comprehensive guide to climbing injury prevention and performance optimization.

Takeaways

• Mental health is a broad category that encompasses various aspects of well-being, including anxiety, depression, and neurodivergence.
• Grounding exercises, such as the five senses exercise, can help climbers stay present and manage stress and anxiety.
• Deliberate breathing while climbing can improve focus, oxygenation, and mental clarity.
• Building a supportive community and engaging in social activities can contribute to better mental health in climbing. 
• Addressing mental health in a holistic manner is essential for climbers to optimize their overall well-being and performance.

Beth Scott's Bio

• My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction
• 01:26 Understanding Mental Health for Climbers
• 03:30 Mental Health is Not Always Negative
• 05:18 Practical Tips for Improving Mental Health
• 06:00 Grounding Exercise: Five Senses
• 09:56 Breathing Techniques for Mental Health
• 23:26 Building Community for Mental Health 
• 33:17 Final Thoughts

Beth Scott's Bio My name is Beth Scott, and I’m an occupational therapist in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. I started climbing around 10 years ago when I began undergrad studies. I was uncoordinated and far from athletic, but realized I needed a way to meet people and simultaneously deal with stress. Each year after I became more interested (obsessed?) in climbing, and eventually began cross training, competing, giving lessons, coaching, and route setting at local climbing gyms until starting graduate school. The more I climbed inside and out, the more I saw large gaps in access to both indoor and outdoor climbing to Oklahomans of every ability level. An occupation like climbing can offer so much more than just physical health, and I want to help bridge those gaps.

CONTACT BETH SCOTT: [email protected]

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis.   Takeaways

• DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint.
• Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain.
• Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises.
• Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury.
• Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms.
• Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury.
• Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction and Background
• 03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury
• 05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers
• 07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain
• 16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain
• 25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions
• 28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain
• 33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors
• 38:03 Pinch Grip Variations
• 42:08 Hangboard Recommendations
• 46:11 Returning to Climbing
• 48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis

Contact Steve Smith: [email protected]

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 YouTube Session Recording

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches

In this episode, Evan Ingerson, a physical therapist, discusses the challenges of returning to climbing after an injury or break. He emphasizes the importance of measuring and systematizing the return to climbing process, using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume. Evan also highlights the need to consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression. He introduces the concept of shoulder spheres for shoulder injuries and provides tips on using the gym as a tool and climbing with good influences. Overall, he encourages climbers to focus on drills, technique, and making the most of the return to climbing experience.

Takeaways

• Measure and systematize the return to climbing process using a total load calculation based on difficulty and volume.
• Consider wall type and hold grip type in rehab and progression.
• Use the gym as a tool to modify climbs and focus on drills and technique.
• Climb with good influences and avoid pushing too hard too soon.

Evan Ingerson’s Bio

• Evan was born and raised in Portland, Oregon. After receiving his Bachelor’s Degree in Exercise Science from Oregon State University he moved to Denver to attend Regis University and explore the Rocky Mountains. Evan graduated with honors with his doctorate in physical therapy from Regis in 2016 and has been doing everything he can to continue to grow his clinical effectiveness ever since. When he’s not in the clinic Evan enjoys everything Colorado has to offer such as rock climbing, mountain biking, skiing, and ballroom dancing. Evan is happily taking new clients via telehealth only. Schedule online or contact him directly at [email protected] for inquiries. Please note: Evan is no longer taking Free Consultations

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 YouTube Session Recording

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: 

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools:  /Brand Partner Discounts 

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches