In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading stage, initial loading stage, dynamic and plyometric stage, and fear avoidance. The conversation concludes with a reminder to seek professional help if needed and to prioritize ankle health to prevent chronic instability and future injuries.

Nicholas Hedges's Bio

• Nic Hedges has a Doctorate in Chiropractic as well as a Masters degree in Sport Science and Rehabilitation. Since graduating chiropractic school, Nic has taught anatomy and physiology at Colorado Mountain College. He was also a member of the climbing special interest group, which provided him the opportunity to collaborate with other professionals in a niche sport. He is now the proud owner and operator of Synergy Sports Clinic in Grand Junction, Colorado. When he's not working in clinic, he can be found climbing in rifle or trail running.

Chapters

• 00:00 Introduction and Background
• 01:30 The Importance of the Lower Body in Climbing
• 06:19 The Consequences of Ankle Sprains
• 08:02 Self-Assessment for Ankle Susceptibility and Injury Risk Reduction
• 11:33 Testing Ankle Mobility and Function
• 14:26 Teasing Out the Different Systems Involved in Balance
• 21:09 Benchmarking and Comparing Balance Performance
• 22:39 Case Study: Sprained Ankles in a Climbing Gym
• 22:46 Importance of Assessing and Addressing the Ankle
• 27:05 Determining the Severity of an Ankle Injury
• 35:30 Stages of Ankle Rehabilitation
• 44:05 Closing Thoughts on Ankle Sprains and Rock Climbing

Links and Resources for This Episode:

• 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
• 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

Social Media and Webpage:

• 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:

Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

• Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts

Injury Rehab Coures

• Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches