What does it take to break through to the next climbing grade?

With each new milestone, the challenge grows harder—but potentially more rewarding.

In this special collaboration with The Struggle Podcast, I coach Ryan Devlin as he works to push past his current limit of 5.13a and lay the foundation for his next breakthrough in sport climbing.

No matter your level, the tips and strategies we share in this episode can help guide your own climbing progression. A key focus of our conversation is the concept of building a solid "grade pyramid"—a proven approach for long-term advancement.

This episode follows up on episodes #86, #91, #94, and #102, where I’ve been coaching Ryan on his journey toward his first-ever 5.13. You’ll get an inside look at where he stands as of April 2025, and the specific training and climbing recommendations I’ve made for his upcoming summer season, all with an eye toward peaking in the prime conditions of Fall.

Tune in to learn actionable strategies, exercises, and mindset shifts to support your next goal—whether that’s your first 5.10 or your hardest send yet.

This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>

T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability level, training background, or goals, listening to this episode will challenge your current approach and inspire you to reinvent your training for better results.

In this hour-long lecture, Coach Hörst breaks down 10 common training mistakes. Chances are, one, two, or maybe even several of these missteps will hit close to home. But don’t get discouraged—get psyched! Identifying these flaws empowers you to train smarter day in and day out, and to course-correct your long-term plan. That’s the key to unlocking more effective training—and real gains on the rock!

Start your journey toward better training and harder climbing today!

RUNDOWN

0:16 - Welcome statement...

0:53 - Eric introduces the powerful topic of correcting common training mistakes. Whether you're current in a serious training block or just doing weekday maintenance training as a tune-up for weekend sending, this is a must-listen episode. 

1:50 - Common Mistake #1: Training without a well-designed and personalized plan for improvement.

5:20 - Mistake #2: Copying someone else’s training program (aka "copy cat training")

9:30 - Mistake #3: Doing the exact same workout over and over without modification, progression, or deload periods. (aka “Groundhog Day” Training)

16:28 - Mistake #4: Doing little or no sub-maximal climbing (aka always projecting, limit climbing, and "competing with yourself").

Listen to the first in a series of five T4C podcasts on Energy System Training >>

25:15 - Mistake #5: Not doing any generalized aerobic training

[Brief Commercial Break] - SAVE 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition >> (code: PODCAST15)

33:45 - Mistake #6: Doing little or no max-strength finger flexor training

40:37 - Mistake #7: Doing little or no antagonist and stabilizer muscle training

44:45 - Mistake #8: Getting drawn into a serious weight lifting, body building, or cross-fit style program

50:00 - Mistake #9: Ignoring -- and training through -- developing aches and pains

Listen to T4C podcast #39 on the "Perfect Storm" for climbing injuries >>

59:00 - Mistake #10: Overeating (or undereating) and failing to provide your body with the energy and building blocks needed to gain strength, endurance, resilience, and recovery faster.

1:09:30 - Eric serves up his final thoughts on how you can use the informtion from this podcast to take your climbing to the next level!

1:10:30 - Eric invites you to sign up to his Training For Climbing Newsletter...for a monthly dose (or two) of training content to your inbox! Go to TrainingForClimbing.com and enter your name and email in the pop up box that appears.

Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel.

*** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***

Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).

Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing.

If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode.

Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the saw” each season. America’s top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing.

So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy?

Listen in now to find out!

RUNDOWN

0:16 - Welcome statement...

0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing...

(Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts #76, #53, and #12

4:00 - What is this powerful strategy?

6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route.

13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. Save 15% with checkeout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com

15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing

16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy.

18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go!

20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on.

22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold.

23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go.

24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point!

25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send! 

27:00 - What to do if you don't send?

29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing?

30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes.

Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel.

*** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***

Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).

Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement.

0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD.

2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory 

3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance.

6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today.

7:35 - Tips for older climbers.

10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training.

11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts.

13:00 - Scheduling your workouts.

15:45 - Specificity of training.

17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset.

19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals.

21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting.

24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment.

27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes.

29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions.

30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks.

31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers.

33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting...

36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets.

38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers.

38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries...

40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals.

41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status.

42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training).

44:45 - Developing better recovery practices.

46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing.

46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential.

48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing!

50:35 - Wrap up

50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram

51:10 - Watch this interview on Eric's T4C YouTube channel. Subscribe!

51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts

51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out!

*** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***

Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Dear Listener, How about -- together -- we all try to SEND 2025?

In other words, let's try to upgrade our thoughts and actions in all we do to make 2025 our best year yet!

Towards this end, in this episode I will serve up tips for improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Eric's greetings...

0:45 - Introductory comments on striving to live your dream life...in climbing and beyond.

3:38 -  Upgrade #1: Improve your time management to maximize time spent engaged in important activities.

10:33 - Upgrade #2: Level-up your training by cutting the "fluff", adding some novelty, and targeting your weaknesses.

20:10 -  Upgrade #3: Elevate your thoughts and take control of your self-talk to help drive massive action towards your goals.

29:50 - Upgrade #4: Refine your day-to-day nutrition to support energy, focus, strength gains, recovery ability, and injury resistance.

*** Calculate your personal protein requirements with this research-based online calculator. ***

37:21 - Upgrade #5: Analyze and better manage your stress levels. Strive to reduce (or eliminate) "bad stress", while seeking out and embracing sources of "good stress."

45:12 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel.

*** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 ***

Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge!

JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever!

The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for the new year, but also target bad habits you’d like to change…or other behaviors that are holding you back from reaching the next level in climbing, in your career or relationships, or any other important life area.

To serve as your North Star for this challenge, we will ask you to select a specific "Challenge Goal" for the 6 weeks of the contest, as well as set a "Send 2025 Mega Goal" that you'll be working towards throughout the year ahead. We hope that with our encouragement and support you will reach all your goals big or small!

*************************************

JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >>

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SUPPORT THE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING PODCAST!

Visit our sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition at PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?"

Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it!

THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more. 

Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in!

Here's a rundown of some key moments:

0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel.

2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing.

5:30 - Some interesting training history.

9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research.

10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance.

10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent.

12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach.

17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training.

20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport.

23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades!

24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers...

29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes.

32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes.

33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance.

36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen.

40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X.

44:00 - The best supplement for climbers?

45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation.

51:00 - Personalized nutrition

52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach.

54:50 - The power of Discipline.

58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals.

58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+?

59:50 - A few questions from listeners...

1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes?

1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same?

1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM)

1:08:45 - Nutrient timing.

1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments

1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel!

1:14:00 - Eric's final comments 

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.

Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more.

RUNDOWN

3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing

4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence.

10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day.

14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags.

20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage.

26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing.

SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Sendure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com

32:13 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta.

39:43 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta.

41:41 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts?

45:03 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you!

46:13 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer...

51:03 - 11.  Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally.

52:28 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it!

55:13 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time.

58:43 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business.

1:00:38 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page.

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game.

The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental!

While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot” in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition — or even during the sports event itself! — a well-coached and mentally apt and experienced individual will act in deliberate ways to set the stage for peak performance.

Towards this end, I'm going to detail 8 so called "last-minute" things you can do (or not do) that will help set the stage for climbing your best when it counts most. The more of these items that you deliberately optimize, the better you’ll sort of stack the deck for performing your best when it counts.

Support the TFC podcast...and amplify your training and performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition!

This month (Rock-tober) only, get 20% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST20 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

Links to more Training For Climbing!

• The Power of Pre-Climb Rituals >>
• 10 Does and Don'ts of Effective Redpointing >>
• How To Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing >>

Music by Misty Murphy

SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:

• 1. Popular training biohacks, including sauna use, cold plunge, and intermittent fasting. 
• 2. The value of getting an occasional blood work-up to monitor how your health and performance-related biometrics change as a result of diet, training, and aging.

This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.

T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music Remix of the Police

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.