By Eric J. Hörst
4.7
243243 ratings
The podcast currently has 108 episodes available.
In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route.
Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more.
RUNDOWN
3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing
4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence.
10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day.
14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags.
20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage.
26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing.
SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Sendure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
32:13 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta.
39:43 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta.
41:41 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts?
45:03 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you!
46:13 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer...
51:03 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally.
52:28 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it!
55:13 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time.
58:43 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business.
1:00:38 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page.
PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!
SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.
One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game.
The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental!
While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot” in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition — or even during the sports event itself! — a well-coached and mentally apt and experienced individual will act in deliberate ways to set the stage for peak performance.
Towards this end, I'm going to detail 8 so called "last-minute" things you can do (or not do) that will help set the stage for climbing your best when it counts most. The more of these items that you deliberately optimize, the better you’ll sort of stack the deck for performing your best when it counts.
Support the TFC podcast...and amplify your training and performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition!
This month (Rock-tober) only, get 20% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST20 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Links to more Training For Climbing!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music Remix of the Police
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics:
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music Remix of the Police
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing!
There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever!
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music: Remix of The Police
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes.
The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years.
Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics:
This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast.
T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".
This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year.
We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics:
What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season
How to carry a project over from one season to the next
The secret to being a successful route climber
Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training
The science of building route fitness
Why many climbers are training endurance wrong
So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!
This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>
T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals.
One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast.
My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance.
The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and well-being.
RUNDOWN
00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement
00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance
1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance
1:35 – Introducing our expert, Dr. Thomas Cunningham (Instagram: @thomascunninghammd.com)
2:30 – Use of blood test biomarkers
3:45 – Value for older athletes
4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com
5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham
5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0”
9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers"
11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average”
14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc.
16:40 – “Treat the patient, don’t treat the numbers!”
19:15 – Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count
22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com
23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB
31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. (PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.)
35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep.
37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine
40:00 – The journey toward optimization.
47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat.
49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels
53:00 – Hormone changes in women
55:00 – A brief mention of peptides
57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week.
1:01:00 – Final thoughts
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be!
No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing.
Therefore, a more accurate title of this podcast might be..."The 10 secrets to accelerating improvement and climbing your very best!"
I've got a lot of territory to cover in the next hour, so let's get started!
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best!
However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight should you fit your shoes?
Our shoe expert, Michael Genauer from La Sportiva NA, will answer these questions and many more in this episode. Listen and learn how to make your climbing shoes perform better for you!
Reminder: T4C episode #97 provided a look into the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. Combined with today's podcast #99, these two episodes provide a comprehensive look into the quality of your four points of contact with the rock. If you want to climb better, then you must strive to optimize your purchase with each contact point.
RUNDOWN
00:20 - Introduction
1:30 - Building on podcast #97, my interview with Kevin Brown about the science of chalk and optimal chalk use.
2:00 - Now we look at the feet! How shoe design, fit, comfort, and price affect footwork and climbing performance.
4:00 - Podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15.
7:00 - Overview of shoe design, parts, and craftsmanship.
10:00 - Heel structure and performance.
16:10 - Downpointing and asymmetric shoes for high-performance sport climbing and bouldering. Details on the La Sportiva "PD #".
18:45 - Entry-level shoes versus high-performance fit.
20:50 - Why outdoor climbers likely need 2 or more different pairs of shoes....for optimal performance on different rock types and climbing styles.
22:00 - Lace-up shoes versus slip-on shoes.
27:15 - Lined versus unlined?
29:10 - How much should you "size down" your climbing shoes (compared to your approach shoe size)?
32:05 - Shoe fit for kid crushers! Tips to optimize performance and reduce risk of toe/foot injury.
33:20 - Shoe rubber, stickiness, and temperature effect on optimal rubber performance.
38:50 - Proper care tips for maintaining your shoe's performance and extending the life of the shoe...so hopefully you can get a couple of resoles out of each pair of new shoes.
40:20 - When to resole your shoes?
46:10 - Does the country a shoe is manufactured in tell us anything about the quality and performance of a shoe?
52:00 - Closing thoughts, and discussion about La Sportiva's new retail shoe in Boulder, CO.
Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!
Music by Misty Murphy
SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>
Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing
Check out Eric’s YouTube channel.
Follow Eric on Facebook!
And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
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