Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force".

This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it!

Lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!

This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>

T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I'll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Welcome

0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and blunt the performance gains

3:09 - Let's get started...and elevate our training and climbing!

3:55 - Mistake #1: Not having an intelligent plan for each training session.

5:40 - Mistake #2: Making every workout a competition with yourself.

9:40 - Mistake #3: "Cramming" training before a weekend trip, competition, or longer road trip.

Learn about the performance nutrition used by Top Pros - Get 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).

14:25 - Mistake #4. Training through injury.

Listen to previous injury podcast on the "perfect storm" for getting injured.

22:28 - Mistake #5: Following someone else's training plan (i.e. copy cat training)

25:35 - Mistakes #6: Training your strengths….ignoring your weaknesses.

31:35 - Mistake #7: Training hard and smart, but failing to get adequate sleep and proper nutrition to support your training.

39:02 - Bonus...Mistake #8: Engaging a various acts of self-sabotage.

42:00 - Summary thoughts.

Please check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).

Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

43:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.

In this episode, I'll share some insider insights from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM) Symposium held in Squamish, BC this past August.

I'll give you some of the conference highlights on topics such as recent climbing injury trends, new technology for diagnosing A2 pulley injuries, growth plate injuries among youth climbers, commentary on the RED-S debate and the IFSC controversy, and much more!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Greetings

0:50 - "Insider Information" from the Canadian Climbing Medicine (CCM)Symposium

1:48 - Backstory on CCM - Follow @ClimbingMedicine

3:30 - Overview of this year's 3-day conference at Squamish, BC.

DAY 1 (abridged)

7:00 - A2 Pulley injury insights from Dr. Isa Schöeffl

7:40 - Update on Growth Plate fractures among youth climbers.

9:10 - Low Energy Availability (LEA)

10:00 - Insights into RED-S concerns with young and elite-level climbers

11:00 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl updated on his resignation from IFSC MedCom.

13:52 - Screening with BMI? Next steps?

15:50 - Dr. Volker Schöeffl on injury trends among climbers

17:15 - Increase in SLAP tears (shoulders)

DAY 2 (abridged)

18:52 - Dr. Jared Vagy on ACL surgery rehab and recovery timeline

22:20 - ACL injury risk reduction

23:06 - Why female athletes have more ACL injuries than their male counterparts

24:47 - Xeber Iruretagoiena presents his techniques for using High-Resolution Ultrasound Diagnosis of the Most Common Climbing Injuries of the Fingers

27:55 - List of other medical presenters on Day 1 and 2: Dr. Yasser El-Sheikh, Dr. Herb von Schroeder, Dr. Carrie Cooper, and Dr. Marieta Buse

DAY 3 (abridged)

30:55 - Craig Berman on Kinesthetic Intelligence and Movement-oriented exercises to enhance climbing performance...founded on content from his recently published movement-training book, Climbology. Get it here >>

31:30 - Dr. Tyler Nelson presented in depth on effective finger training and injury avoidance

32:04 - Steve Bechtel on The Strength Continuum and Concurrent Development of Multiple Facets of Fitness

32:40 - Eric Hörst presented his conceptual model for effective Energy System Training and he gave a primer on Nutritional Ergogenic Aids for Climbers - For an in-depth study of Energy System Training listen to Podcasts #22, #23, #24, #26, #28. Listen to Episode #22 first >>

33:10 - Eric comments on the potential value of nutritional ergogenic aids to support peak performance.

36:36 - Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).

Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

37:25 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

37:50 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year.

This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end!

Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!

This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>

T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

For many climbers, Autumn is the season of sending.

With the start of "send season" just 6 weeks away, this episode will describe a few keys for dialing in your training now to climb your best in October and November.

Lean into this podcast...and let's prepare to SEND!

RUNDOWN

0:14 - Welcome message.

00:50 - Introduction to...6 weeks to send season!

2:57 - 3 key steps for effective training over the weeks until your performance season begins.

4:10 - #1: Identify your specific goal for the Autumn climbing season. Where will you mostly be climbing and what's the physical nature of the climbing there? What's your "super bowl"...that is, the most important project boulder or route?

8:42 - #2: Spend less time strength training and more time climbing! Over the coming weeks, taper off climbing-specific strength exercises and put down the heavy free weights until your next off-season.

12:25 - #3: Consider your body composition--is it currently optimal for climbing your best on steep boulders and long, overhanging routes? If not, what calorie-dense junk/pleasure foods can you reduce or eliminate until after send season is over? Consider running a few days per week to increase caloric expenditure and spin-up cardiovascular fitness (especially helpful for route climbers).

19:52 - Summary points

22:12 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

23:00 - LET'S GET THE SEND TRAIN ROLLING!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by The Police (Remixes)

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well.

In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day.

In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors you should consider in determining how often you should take a rest day from climbing. The optimal climbing-to-rest-day ratio can differ greatly depending on your climbing goals, training history, age, and recovery ability, among other things.

RUNDOWN

0:14 - Welcome message.

1:30 - The value of climbing roadtrips

2:36 - Intro to optimizing your climbing day to rest day ratio while on a roadtrip.

The 4 primary factors that come into play in getting it right.

6:12 - Factor #1: The length of your climbing trip.

13:28 - Factor #2: The type of climbing you're engaging in.

17:34 - Factor #3: Your age and recovery ability.

25:50 - Factor #4: The weather!

30:10 - Eric's wrap-up and closing comments.

Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

30:50 - Horst Out!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by The Police (Remixes)

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!

Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies.

However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each.

RUNDOWN

0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode

1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing)

2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time!

4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events.

10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types.

>> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. Episode #21 is here >>

12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering.

16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing.

>> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of running for climbers >>

21:24 - Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time.

23:50 - Summary points

25:00 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

26:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by The Police (Remixes)

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode.

The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c.

The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst.

Despite beginning the Spring 2023 season with a bum knuckle, lack of high-end strength, and no plans to project anything hard...fate put me in the right place at the right time. I was struck with the impulse to jump on the intimidating, overhanging pumpfest known as Kaleidoscope, a route I've gawked at many times but never seriously considered working on.

I'll share with you my process of working this route and how the redpoint "just happened" one day. You'll learn many mental, technical, and tactical tips that you can adopt or modify to improve your climbing performance!

RUNDOWN

0:15 - Greetings

0:50 - Intro to "surprise send" episode -- a sport climbing performance case study.

2:40 - The backstory...

4:35 - Leveraging my current assets as a veteran climber. What I've got going for me!

6:22 - The importance of recovery--my sleep and nutrition habits.

7:30 - My current knuckle pain...and "climbing around it".

8:10 - Stalling out on last season's project climb...

9:35 - Being "fit" but not "strong".

9:50 - Entering the Kaleidoscope!

13:25 - The process, in detail.

15:25 - Details of the crux beta. (SKIP if you're planning an onsight attempt on the climb!)

17:20 - Summary of Day 1 on Kaleidoscope

18:20 - Details of my day 2 and day 3 work on the project...

20:25 - Day 4 progress. Two one-hang goes! Close, yet miles away...

22:20 - Day 5 -- Easter Sunday attempts on the proj.

24:00 - Send go #1

25:15 - A small, but vital discovery...

26:28 - Send go #2 -- Watch the send video here >>

29:45 - My love of never-ending learning as a climber (and beyond).

31:00 - Question: Why do we climb?

31:40 - Closing comments.

31:50 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

32:40 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.

What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end.

In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first wrote a training program about 3 years ago. Since then, Ryan's become a solid 5.12a/b climber with redpoints up to 5.12d. But taking it to the next level will require a modified and comprehensive program...which is the focus of our discussion.

Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be!

This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >>

T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

It's a question I get asked all the time: "Will doing some running (or other cardio) help my climbing performance?" Giving a proper answer demands some nuance based on the individual's phenotype as well as their current level of climbing experience and fitness, and time available for training. (But in many cases, the answer is "yes".) This fast-paced episode gives a scientific basis for helping you determine if doing some running could enhance your climbing performance.

RUNDOWN

0:14 - Welcome

1:00 - Introduction to "running for climbing".

2:20 - The problem with training sound bites and memes...

4:32 - 4 ways that running (or other generalized cardiovascular conditioning, such as swimming, rowing, biking, etc.) can support a higher level of climbing performance

5:08 - #1. Research has shown that more cardiovascular fit climbers recover faster. This means greater recovery on marginal mid-route rests and faster recovery between boulders, routes, and exercises.

8:02- How your resting heart rate can be used as a measure of your cardiovascular fitness.

9:42 - #2. Greater generalized aerobic conditioning will improve stamina for long days of bouldering, climbing, training, and performing at elevation.

11:10 - #3. Regular generalized conditioning can help improve your body composition and increase your strength-to-weight ratio.

13:02 - #4: Running or other cardio has been shown to improve mental state, mood, and energy.

14:24 - Recap: 8 take-home points about running (and other cardio exercises) for climbing.

1. Running will not improve your climbing technique/skill.
2. Running will accelerate your recovery at mid-climb rests and between exercises and climbs.
3. Running will increase stamina for long days of bouldering, training, and climbing.
4. Running can help optimize your body composition, thus increasing your strength-to-weight ratio.
5. Running can improve mood and energy.
6. Running (or other cardio exercises) must be done at moderate intensity and duration. 2 to 4 days per week for 20 to 40 minutes each.
7. Run on rest days from climbing, or as part of a 2-a-day workout schedule.
8. Do NOT let your running (or other cardio) escalate to excessive amounts that create excessive fatigue or take away from climbing time.

20:20 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage!

PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend!

21:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out!

SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >>

Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs

Music by Misty Murphy

Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing

Check out Eric's YouTube channel.

Follow Eric on Facebook!

And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.