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Shortly after WWII, a new group formed in Fontainebleau. They called themselves the Cuvier Academic Club, but were quickly known as The Convicts of Cuvier. Led by Pierre Allain, René Ferlet, Guy Poullet and Jacques Poincenot, this group would raise standards in the forest with the first ascent of La Marie Rose, the first V3 (6A) in the world.

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Resources can be found at https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone

The Fontainebleau Boulder post mentioned in the video: https://www.instagram.com/p/DZ1sYqwDE6a/?img_index=1

Music:

"Tel Quel (En Plein Sur le Nez)" Alix Combelle

Willie Dixon

"Panassie Stomp" Alix Combelle

"Midi à Jalopi (12 O'Clock in Jalopi)" Alix Combelle

"Strictement pour les Persans (Strictly for the Persians)" Alix Combelle

"That Blue-Eyed Baby From Memphis" Don Redman

"Mush Mouth" Claude Hopkins

"Joyeuse Fumée (Holy Smoke)" Alix Combelle

After World War 1, bouldering began to shapeshift into something that very closely resembles the modern day game. At the forefront of that movement was Pierre Allain, a climber who was openly competitive and aimed to be the best. Also a talented and accomplished alpinist, Allain invented much of the gear we take for granted today, including the first shoes specifically for climbing -- and they were shaped by bouldering in Fontainebleau.

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By 1908, people had been practicing on boulders for over 25 years, but it lacked something essential to bouldering: community. In Fontainebleau, groups of climbers with a shared passion would unite around the sandstone blocs and forever shape the game of bouldering.

Resources can be found at https://www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone

Was Oscar Eckenstein the first boulderer? What does that even mean? This season, we are asking and trying to answer some big questions. In this episode, I talk with our research assistant, Efix Roy, about the big question raised by the first episode of the season.

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Bouldering & The Vertical Path by John Gill

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People have likely climbed on boulders for all of human history, but in the late 1800's, one man began advocating for climbing on boulders as a way to become a better climber. His name was Oscar Eckenstein, and he fundamentally changed the way we climb. Was he the first boulderer?

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Music:

"Concerto No. 4 in F minor, Op. 8, RV 297, 'L'inverno' (Winter)" The Modena Chamber Orchestra (https://musopen.org)

"String Quartet no. 2 in B minor - IV. Allegro furioso" Steve's Bedroom Band (https://musopen.org)

"Nocturne in B flat minor, Op. 9 no. 1" Eduardo Vinuela (https://musopen.org)

"String Quartet, Op.25 - II. Intermezzo. Andante con moto, quasi allegretto" Steve's Bedroom Band (https://musopen.org)

"The Wand of Youth, Suite no. 1, Op. 1a - II. Serenade ( For String Quartet - Jones)" Steve's Bedroom Band (https://musopen.org)

What is bouldering, really? What defines a "boulderer"? And how has that changed since the beginnings of the game? Are there rules, and if so, where did those "rules" start? 

Coming Soon: Season 3 of Written in Stone | The History of Modern Bouldering.

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Michael Kennedy is a legend of climbing media. As the editor of Climbing Magazine from 1974 to 1998, he helped to bring climbing culture to tens of thousands of climbers who otherwise didn't have access to it. He also took the photo that I believe best defines climbing in the 1980s. 

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Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

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In a recent Magnus Midtbo video, Janja Garnbret mentioned that she could do well against the men in a sport climbing competition. Lynn Hill may have helped prove Janja's point - all the way back in 1990.

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After a few weeks of thinking about it, I've put my finger on what I learned about climbing by looking back at the 1980s, and I'm ready to reveal where we go next season.

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!

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Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes.

Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing and The Tension Board 2.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!

Today, in the final interview of the season, we are talking to young legend in the making, Jordan Cannon, who is fresh off of an incredible season of big wall climbing. Most important for this conversation is his recent ascent of The Free Salathé, including the infamous Pitch 19, one of only a handful to do the route this way.

Jordan’s emphasis on aiming for the best style possible without letting that get in the way of having an incredible experience is refreshing. It’s not about rules. It’s just for the love of the game.

In this episode we get nerdy about some of the individual pitches, including Pitch 19, the roof and the headwall, and try to parse out some of the confusing history. We also discuss Jordan’s ascent, the style he aimed for, and the compromises he had to make. And finally, why Jordan isn’t yet finished with The Free Salathé.  

Jordan on Instagram

Watch Free As Can Be

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BIG WALLS, SIGNED BY PAUL PIANA: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/store/p/big-walls

Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing and The Tension Board 2.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.