The Strong AF Climbing Podcast

By Natasha BarnesHealth & Fitness

The Strong AF Climbing Podcast episodes

September 11, 2024 12 - Consistency Over Perfection: Overcoming All-or-Nothing Thinking
In today's episode, we're tackling a mindset hurdle that many of us face: the "all or nothing" thinking. This common cognitive distortion can throw a wrench into our training consistency, making us believe that it's either perfection or failure. From skipping workouts because of lack of time or equipment, to feeling like one missed session ruins an entire week, it's a mindset that can seriously sabotage long-term progress.

We'll dive into tips and strategies to overcome this, such as doing at least one exercise even when pressed for time, spreading your workouts throughout the week, and keeping quick energy snacks like protein bars or fruit snacks on hand for those low-energy days. We'll also explore how tools like Rate of Perceived Exertion (RPE) can help you adapt your training in real-time based on how you feel, ensuring you're always moving forward, no matter what.

Plus, we’ll touch on how to creatively maintain your training routine even when your environment or available equipment changes—think using water bottles or even backpacks loaded with rocks for resistance training! And for all my climbers out there, we'll discuss how to track your climbing-specific progress using apps like KAYA.

Whether you're in the gym, at home, or on the go, today's episode is packed with actionable advice to help you break free from the all-or-nothing trap and keep making gains. So let's get into it!

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37 min
July 09, 2024 Listen to this if you want to lose weight for climbing performance
In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes addresses common concerns climbers have about weight and strength training. Many climbers worry that gaining muscle will make them heavier, potentially hindering their climbing performance. Natasha reassures listeners that it is possible to gain strength without significant weight gain. In fact, strength training can help climbers feel stronger and perform better, even if the scale shows a slight increase in weight.

Key points discussed include:

Weight Concerns: Many climbers are anxious about gaining weight, but strength training often leads to weight loss or no significant weight gain due to increased activity levels.

Realistic Expectations: Most climbers don't need to worry about gaining weight from strength training.

Benefits of Strength Training: Strength gains from a structured program can outweigh any minor weight increase, leading to better climbing performance.

Professional Athletes vs. Regular Climbers: Natasha highlights the difference between professional athletes, who may sacrifice health for performance, and regular climbers, who should prioritize overall well-being.

Personal Experience: Natasha shares personal experiences with disordered eating and the realization that sustainable performance improvement is more important than weight loss.

Foundational Strength Program: Natasha's transformational program helps climbers gain significant strength, making them feel lighter and more capable on the wall. The re-launch of this program is happening THIS MONTH!

The episode aims to dispel myths about weight and strength training, encouraging climbers to embrace strength programs to enhance their climbing ability and resilience.

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38 min
December 21, 2023 10. My Journey With Climbing & Powerlifting
Join me in this podcast episode as I share the incredible journey of blending climbing and powerlifting in my life. I'll take you through the highs, lows, and transformative moments that emerged from the unique synergy of these two dynamic disciplines. Explore the unexpected connections, the physical and mental strength gained, and the profound insights discovered while navigating climbing and the sport of powerlifting.
Look out for the special announcement at the end!

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1 hr 35 min
November 14, 2023 9. In-Season Strength Training for Climbers: Maintaining Performance, Reducing Injury Risk, and Preserving Gains
In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes, your host and strength and rehab coach for climbers, discusses the importance of inseason strength training for climbers. Here are the key takeaways:
1️⃣ Maintain Performance: Many climbers neglect strength training once their season begins, but this can have detrimental effects on your strength levels. By incorporating inseason strength training, climbers can maintain their performance throughout the season, leading to easier climbing, better grip strength, and improved ability to handle falls and challenging moves.
2️⃣ Durability & Injury Risk Reduction: Strength and durability are crucial for athletes to stay injury-free and perform at their best. Research shows that strength training can reduce the risk of injury by up to 66%! By continuing strength training inseason, climbers can better withstand the demands of climbing and prevent breakdowns that limit availability and performance.
3️⃣ Prevent Detraining & Maintain Gains: Don't let your hard-earned gains disappear. By maintaining your strength training throughout the season, you can prevent detraining and avoid starting from square one in the next offseason. Inseason strength training ensures long-term development and continuous improvement as a climber.
If you're looking for guidance on inseason strength training for climbers, Dr. Natasha Barnes has just launched an in-season strength training program in her app. This program provides personalized programming, auto-regulation techniques, and a community forum for support and learning. Strengthen your climbing game and be Strong AF all season long!

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23 min
November 07, 2023 8. Climber Posture, "Antagonist" Training and Pain - Separating Fact from Fiction
In this episode, we'll be exploring the relationship between posture and muscle imbalances in climbers, and how it relates to pain and injury. We'll uncover some fascinating insights from recent studies that challenge traditional beliefs about posture and muscle imbalances.
Do climbers need to do "antagonist" training? Do you really have a "bad" posture and is it a cause for concern? Should we be focusing on correcting posture to prevent injuries? Or are there other factors at play that we should be paying attention to?
Be prepared to have your perspective on posture and muscle imbalances turned upside down. We'll be discussing the latest research findings, as well as sharing personal experiences and practical advice on how to approach training and injury prevention in climbing.
Join me as we break down myths, explore the science, and empower you with knowledge to help you become stronger and injury-free. So get ready to challenge your preconceived notions about posture and muscle imbalances in this episode of the Strong AF Podcast!
And don't forget, if you have any questions or suggestions, reach out to us. We'd love to hear from you. Let's dive in!

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41 min
October 24, 2023 7. Rethinking Pain: How Beliefs and Expectations Shape our Experience of Pain & Injury
Did you know that our minds have the power to reverse the effects of a powerful opioid? That's right, a drug that can numb our pain can also be counteracted by our own thoughts and beliefs. You're probably wondering, how is this possible?

It all comes down to the incredible complexity of how pain works and the intricate dance between our brains and bodies. Pain is not purely a physical sensation. It's a multifaceted experience rooted deep within our nervous system. And we're going to explore just how much control we have over this experience.

In this episode, Dr. Natasha Barnes dives into the world of pain science, pain management and injury recovery. From back pain to elbow sensitivity, Natasha provides insights, personal experiences, and expert advice on how to navigate the challenges of pain and injury.

Whether you're a climber or simply looking for ways to deal with pain, this episode will give you the tools and knowledge to reframe pain and work around it during training. Let's dive in!

[00:02:04] Injury is inevitable for athletes; normalize it.

[00:08:38] Powerful pain expectations reverse drug effects.

[00:12:50] Power of the mind affects opioid potency.

[00:17:35] Reframe pain, retrain response, address unhelpful thoughts.

[00:22:50] Use CBT techniques to create and "evidence sheet", challenge negative beliefs and cognitive distortions.

[00:23:43] Research suggests slap tears may not cause pain.

[00:30:48] Self efficacy in rehab leads to better pain outcomes.

[00:35:16] When to seek professional guidance.

[00:41:48] Exercise even directly after surgery improves outcomes.

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46 min
October 17, 2023 EP 6 - How To Warm Up for Strength Training
In this episode, we'll be discussing various strategies for warming up for your strength training session. Plus, we'll touch on the importance of using RPE (Rating of Perceived Exertion) to accurately gauge your effort level and adjust your training accordingly. So get ready to get warmed up and let's dive in!

RPE calculator
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1 hr
October 10, 2023 5. Demystifying Autoregulation: The Science and Art of Adjusting Training Intensity
Autoregulation is a game-changer when it comes to achieving optimal results in your workouts. It involves dynamically adjusting your training intensity based on your performance, rather than sticking to a rigid plan.
By using a subjective rating scale, known as the Rating of Perceived Exertion (RPE), you can select the appropriate training load to maximize your gains.
But why is autoregulation so important? Well, it's because strength and fatigue levels can vary from day to day. By autoregulating your training, you can adapt to your body's current state, ensuring that you're pushing yourself enough without risking burnout or injury. It's all about finding that sweet spot where you're challenging yourself, but not crossing the line into overexertion.
Today, we'll uncover the ins and outs of autoregulation and how it can revolutionize your training routine. We'll discuss the benefits of rest, the dangers of overshooting sets, and why going to failure isn't always necessary for strength gains.
Join us as we delve into the world of autoregulation and discover how this powerful tool can take your training to new heights. So grab your headphones, find a comfortable spot, and get ready for another episode of the Strong AF Podcast. Let's do this!

00:01:31 Adjusting training intensity based on performance fluctuations.
00:05:20 One rep max tests can be invalid. Basing training off of them is not ideal.
00:08:06 Auto regulate your training using various methods.
00:10:27 RPE: Perceived exertion for effective strength training.
00:26:40 Use RPE to gauge load accurately.
00:33:35 Standard warm-up improves consistency in training.
00:42:58 New programs launching soon

RPE is a valid and reliable way to measure training
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52 min
October 03, 2023 EPISODE 4: Implementing Effective Strength Training Strategies for Climbers
In today's episode, we dive deep into the world of programming for strength training, specifically tailored for climbers. Our host, Dr. Natasha Barnes, will take us through a narrative review that focuses on designing a time-efficient training program for climbers without sacrificing valuable climbing practice.

With the recognition that lack of time is a common barrier to effective strength training, Natasha explores the research on acute training variables, training techniques, warmup strategies, and the use of compound exercises in strength training.

But it doesn't stop there. Natasha will guide us through the essential components of designing a program, including exercises selection, set and rep guidelines, and the importance of progressive overload. We'll also uncover the American Physical Activity Guidelines and the NSCA recommendations to ensure we're setting our climbers up for success.

But it's not just about reps and sets—proper nutrition plays a vital role in achieving those strength training goals. Natasha will discuss the importance of increasing calorie intake, prioritizing protein and carbohydrates to build muscle mass, and how to avoid weight loss while adding more training to your program.

Join us as we explore the most effective exercises, debunk misconceptions, and unlock the secrets to maximizing strength training for climbing. Get ready to climb stronger and train smarter on this episode of the Strong AF Podcast!

00:02:15 Start simple, progress later, consider coach.
00:03:56 Simple strength training program guidelines for progress.
00:07:58 Increase calories for training, eat more.
00:11:36 Prioritize compound exercises, machines or free weights.
00:14:16 Training frequency is less important than volume.
00:18:07 Avoid lengthy warm ups; start light.
00:22:48 Criteria: compound movements, effective weight usage.
00:26:43 Effective movements maximize weight and range of motion.
00:34:21 The slot concept.
00:35:57 Supplemental and assistance exercises for strength training.
00:46:33 Exercise intensity. Going to failure every time is not necessary and can lead to excessive fatigue and hinder recovery.

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52 min
September 26, 2023EPISODE 3: Powerlifting Competition Recap
Powerlifting competition recap. We talk about:
What powerlifting is

How a powerlifting competition works

My training for the powerlifting competition

How the competition went for me

This probably won't be the MOST listened to episode but it was requested but listeners. Skip this one if you don't care about powerlifting. Next week we have an episode on strength training programming dropping so stay tuned!

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1 hr

About The Strong AF Climbing Podcast

From the publisher's feed

Climbing is a lifestyle sport. So how can you perform at your best, prevent injury, and improve your longevity in the sport all at the same time? This podcast is the answer. The Strong AF Climbing…