The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

October 27, 2025#176 Sierra Blair — "Boards Or Death", Transitioning From WC’s To Outdoors, The Longterm Training Formula, and Why She Loves The Mini-MoonBoard
Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
What’s her favorite MoonBoard climb and why?
What was it like being famous when young and what does she recommend to up and coming pro’s?

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Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 10 min
October 20, 2025Good Temps #6 — Cold Sticky Granite, World Championships, The Latest Hard Sends In Bouldering/Sport/Alpine(!), and A New Ethics Segment
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope?
When do you work on your weaknesses vs leaning into your strengths?

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Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 58 min
October 13, 2025#175 Mark Heal — The 4 Steps For Sending Any Grade, Tactics You MUST Know, How To Train For Outdoors and Designing The Best Gym In America
Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level.
Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is also a top private coach with over a decade of experience. And last, but certainly not least, he is one of the founders of the incredible Benchmark Climbing gyms in SF and Berkeley.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
How to do you analyze your own video like a coach does?
Top easy/mod/hard boulder in Yosemite?
Best boulder in the North East?
How do you choose feet when you're outdoors and there’s so many options?
Top slab climbing tips?
You can find Mark on his website, https://www.reachcoaching.net/ and on Instagram at www.instagram.com/therealheal

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 35 min
October 06, 2025Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.
2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned:
"Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag
"Moon Spawn" V9, by Dana Rader
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
How do you stick better to wood holds? (hands and feet)
How do you warmup when you only have a board?

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 22 min
September 29, 2025#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100
Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts.
Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)!
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
All things wrists!
Does pain always mean that you are injured? How do you know when pain is “just” pain?
Find Paul on Instagram here: https://www.instagram.com/theclimbingphysio/ or on his website: www.theclimbingphysio.co.uk

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 36 min
September 22, 2025Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and Bishop
Does a rest hurt the quality of a boulder or route?

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 48 min
September 15, 2025 #173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa
The legend himself, Chris Sharma.

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Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 28 min
September 08, 2025Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.
'Classics' mentioned:
"Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45°
"Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45°
"Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45°
"Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45°

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 25 min
September 01, 2025#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach
Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16).
Here's where you can find Jesse online:
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/
Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/
Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 44 min
August 25, 2025 Good Temps #4 — Another V17 By Bosi, Insane Squamish Sends, Rogora Tick’s Gorges Du Loup, The Era Of Difficulty and “Rules Of The Game”
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 30 min