Episode #100!!!! Thank you all for the support. What a journey it’s been. This episode was an absolute banger that encapsulates a lot of the Testpiece message. 

Tim and Josh break down the ‘Simple’ path that the best climbers follow to being great. And then they detail the appropriate role that strength plays in this path. 

They also go over the latest news and cover the amazing media that has been dropping as well as a quick review of the Moonboard 2024 set by Tim. 

SHOW NOTES: 

Janja on Bügeleisen sit (8C/V15)

Retro Modern with Tim Kang 

Tropical Lines 

Patreon for Classrooms 

Steve Radar Moonboard Account 

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Nina Williams pushes the limits in every discipline of climbing there is… comps, bouldering, highball bouldering, big wall, sport climbing, and even free soloing.

In this episode she takes us through a harrowing experience she had while free soloing the Casual Route of the Diamond, a multi pitch 5.10. Nina ended up off route during the climb and thus onsight free soloing, 800 feet off the deck.

Nina also shares what has propelled her to explore and master the different disciplines in climbing and what it means to be a long time professional in the climbing world. 

SHOW NOTES:

• Nina Williams Instagram
• Bad Kitty Podcast
• Too Big To Flail, V10
• Splash of Red, V10
• Ray of Light, V13

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Tim Kang was just in SLC for the World Cup and NACS. He got to watch and session with some of the best climbers in the world. Hear from Tim what his major takeaways were that can help you too.

SHOW NOTES:

• Honnold’s Comments About Competitions and $
• Petzl Roc Trip
• James-Caro Wedding Present

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Davin Bagdonas has developed 1000’s of climbs all over the world. Elite climbers, fellow adventurers, and previous podcast guests, like Jimmy Webb, Jamie Emerson, Roman Yalowitz, Eric Jerome call up Davin when they want to go on a wild adventure to try to find the best boulders in the world.

Davin takes us on a trip around the world to places fraught with danger, and explains this up and comping lens on climbing termed “Alpine Fusion”. This is where you go deep into the backcountry to search and climb boulders.

SHOW NOTES:

• Multiverse FA by Jimmy Webb
• The Winds Backcountry Bouldering (The Revenant, V15)
• Iconic Photo of The Revenant by Nathaniel Davison

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You’re midway through a redpoint burn and you’re tired. There’s a bunch of moves to go and you tell yourself that you’re so tired right now there’s no way you’ll ever send. 

But the truth is, you have no idea how far you will get or if the send is actually right there for the taking. You can’t trust your feelings!

Tim and Josh tackle the problem of doubt creep and how to find actual success during your attempts.

SHOW NOTES:

• Testpiece Patreon
• Ryuchi Almost Sending
• Bon Voyage with James Pearson and Adam Ondra
• Michaela Kiersch
  • Hueco
  • Era Vella
  • Tick List
• Aidan Robert’s On New V17’s?
• No Edge Shoes

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Palmer Larsen is one of the top coaches in the country. This podcast has soooooooooo many helpful tips and frameworks to get you to the next level. DO NOT MISS his description of how to foster an environment for long term success via deliberate practice @ ~1:28!

He is the head coach of Momentum Climbing Team, in SLC, one of the top climbing teams in the country. He oversees 80 kids every week AND the coaches!

Palmer is also an extremely accomplished athlete. He has been competing at a high-level for over a decade including internationally at World Cups. He’s climbed 14d and sent his first V15 a few days before we recorded this podcast!

SHOW NOTES:

• Momentum Climbing Team

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 What is the best way to approach a climb? 

It’s a simple question that may be one of the most important things to ask yourself before you pull on each time, but it’s never talked about. Tim Kang, professional climber and coach, shares the fundamental strategy needed to get your best performance each time. 

Announcement!!

$5 Patron’s now have access to all Classroom recordings via Spotify, or through the Patreon app! That’s 20+ hours of NEW content solving the climbing problems we all have! Go to Patreon and sign up now! 

SHOW NOTES: 

• Devilution by Shawn Raboutou
• Elias Sending Burden of Dream (v17)
• Dana White on Lex Fridman

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Allison Vest has THE STRONGEST FINGERS IN THE WORLD (according to the internet), and she is finally releasing her secret training plan to us! It’s only $9.99, and the best part is Testpiece listeners get 20% off for a limited time! Get it here NOW! 🥸 

Allison shares about what it’s like to climb with the extremely strong fingers and why that’s important to climb hard but not everything. Then we go deep into hangboarding. Seriously Deep. 

Allison also tells us about the transition from Competition to Outdoor climbing, the different joys they bring and the mental approaches she has learned to help her succeed at both. Don’t miss the LeBron James tip that helped her send her latest V14! 

She also talks about creating FLOAT, a YouTube channel that emphasizes women’s accomplishments in climbing. 

SHOW NOTES: 

• Allison’s Secret Hangboarding Protocol (only $9.99)
• Hanging the Beastmaker Edge + 100lbs
• Campusing on the 4mm’s
• Solving a Rubik’s Cube while hanging
• Jerry Moffat’s book Mastermind
• Keenan Takahashi Testpiece Podcast
• FLOAT Trailer
• Circle Up Podcast (with Allison and Kyra Condie)

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Tim Kang and Josh Horsley explore how often to have limit sessions. What limit sessions really mean. And what non-limit sessions look like.

They also cover the latest news, give important PSAs, Pro-Tips, and of course there is a rant. There’s always at least one rant.

SHOW NOTES:

• GoFundme for Adriene
• Felipe Hoo
• Beastmaking Book

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That's right ladies and gentlemen -- Jimmy Webb!

Jimmy is one of the best climbers our sport has ever scene, and one of the humblest and kindest climbers as well.

Please enjoy this wide ranging but always fantastic chat with Jimmy Webb.

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