The Testpiece Podcast

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.

This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.

Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.

Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.

SHOW NOTES:

• Rob Hunter’s Instagram
• Tyler Nelson’s Instagram
• Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio
• Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance
• Tyler’s YouTube Channel
• Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics
• Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration
• Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”
• Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114

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This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future.

Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18.

We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!

Don’t miss Episode #140 for context!

SHOW NOTES:

• Austin Hoyt’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/
• Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@Climbveez
• Austin Hoyt’s Testpiece Episode #140: https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHk

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Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately.

Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move.

Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast.

SHOW NOTES:

• Austin Hoyt’s Instagram
• Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel
• Issac Leff’s YouTube Channel
• Beta labs (Austin’s Company)
• Mad Rock
• Decoy Holds
• Mimic Holds
• Testpiece Podcasts Mentioned:
  • Noah and Benn Wheeler
  • Adam Shahar
  • Ross Fulkerson

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This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that’s why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”.

Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of  Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells.

This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can’t quite capture.

SHOW NOTES:

• “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”
  • Filmed and Edited by Raul Onyett
• Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram
• Ross Fulkerson’s YouTube
• Ross’ Previous Testpiece Episodes:
  • Podcast #3
  • Podcast #4 
  • Podcast #124 
  • Podcast #133
• Mad Rock

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This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong’ climber.

We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!

Don’t miss Episode #137 for context!

SHOW NOTES:

• Kai Whaley’s Instagram
• Kai Whaley’s YouTube
• Kai Whaley’s Episode, #137

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“What up gangstas and shorties, it’s your boy, Kai."

Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn’t be surprising if by the time you read this he’s sent!

Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17’s in the next few years, he’ll also take the title for V17.

Kai’s YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode!

SHOW NOTES:

Kai Whaley’s Instagram

Kai Whaley’s YouTube

Board Climb’s mentioned in the episode:

• “Black Widow”, Moonboard 2024
• “Extendo Clip”, TB2 V13 @ 45
• “Menacing Creation”, TB2
• Brian Squire’s Board Account

Videos mentioned in the podcast:

• Off Leash
• A Little Life
• Squ(h)amish

Testpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode:

• Adam Shahar’s episode
• Martin Keller’s episode
• David Fitzgerald’s episode #1 and #2

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Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts.

Tim and Josh also discuss what the future may hold in terms of grading, whether 15d is harder or easier than V17, and Tim shares what he things is the best highball in the world as well as what his next highball project may be.

Episodes with Tim are always fun and full of hot takes. Enjoy!

SHOW NOTES:

• Timothy Kang's Instagram
• Timothy Kang's YouTube
• Focus - A Bishop Highball Project
• Tim's Best Day, Testpiece Podcast
• Tim's Most Recent Testpiece Podcast
• Noah Wheeler's Testpiece Podcast
• Adam Shahar's Testpiece Podcast

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This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A’s / V17’s he’s tried, the project he’s currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16), and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it.

We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!

Don’t miss Episode #134 for context!

SHOW NOTES:

• Zach Galla’s Instagram
• The Process, V16, SA by Galla on Mellow
• Pretty Tall on Mellow
• Previous Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77
• Previous Zach Galla Tespitece Episode #134

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Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here.

Since we last chatted he’s been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach’s second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16, one of the proudest and most beautiful V16’s in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA’d it. This could have been a podcast in itself but Zach did many more proud V15’s all over the world and FA’d a new V16 in LCC called "Sosa"!

Zach also recently partnered with Black Diamond and joined a team called “BD Hex”. Hear more about the core climbing companies that are quickly growing and supporting the sport we all love.

SHOW NOTES:

• Zach Galla’s Instagram
• Previous Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77
• The Process, V16, SA by Galla on Mellow
• Pretty Tall on Mellow
• Best Believe It on Tension
• Lost Tapes on Mellow
• Unstoppable by Chief Keef
• Love Sosa by Chief Keef
• Confluence on Mellow
• DelayMyBelay on Instagram
• Austin Ernst on Instagram
• Zach Galla’s Board Account
• Brain Squire’s Board Account
• BD Hex Team
  • BD Hex Instagram
  • Toinon Beigne
  • Noah Keithley
  • Sean Faulkner
  • Finn Stack
  • Bobby Vannoy
• Antigrav
• Noise

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A couple of Island Boys just trying to make it to the top!

We’ve got Ross Fulkerson, Marco Giacomangeli, and Bryce Belshin with your normal host, Josh Horsley. These boys recently got back from a trip to Mallorca that involved tons of amazing deep water soloing and some world class sport climbing as well.

Each of these athletes are  active coaches or professional climbers. Hear from them about what they learned on the trip and how coaches coach each other. They also talk about how to use fear to your advantage which is absolutely crucial when you push your limits.

SHOW NOTES:

• Ross Fulkerson’s Instagram and YouTube Channel
• Marco Giacomangeli’s Instagram
• Bryce Belshin’s Instagram
• Mind To Motion
• Al Rangel Testpiece Podcasts
  • Episode #120
  • Episode #7
• Previous Ross Fulkerson Testpiece Episodes
  • Episode #124 
  • Episode #4 
  • Episode #3

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Visit our podcast page: HERE