The Testpiece Podcast

This is a re-release of a previous episode with Sean Bailey. It was an absolute banger then, and it is today. Sean's been on a tear recently with his send of AOTB [V17], opening a new gym in Tokyo, and theres rumors of even more hard sending. Because of this, we thought it was a great time to bring this one back.

We're on holiday this week, but we'll be back to normal starting next week. Happy holidays and new year everyone!

Previous description, as originally aired Jan 29th, 2024.

Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. 

• Sean recently FA’d the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!
• How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.
• He shares about what WC’s were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours! 
• His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.
• What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.
• Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don’t miss this part.

Absolutely incredible can’t miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!

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Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community.

GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• Is there plans to continue to expand GP81? More gyms? More YTC’s? Can you do that while still being ‘anti-mega’?
• How you deal with serious issues from kids, like eating disorders, or serious anxiety around competition or falling?

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):

• The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk.
• Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits and the secret glue he uses for everything skin related.

Links to things mentioned:

• Ethan Salvo on Lucid Dreaming (V15): https://www.instagram.com/p/DR8AjooE_R8/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
• Ben Kim on Lucid Dreaming: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRszUg_jyvi/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
• Pietro Vidi: https://www.instagram.com/pie.vidi/
• Mimic Holds: https://www.mimicholds.com/
• Absolute Climbing: https://www.absoluteclimbing.com/
• Chris Deuto and Ben Sotero do Cerro Torre: https://www.instagram.com/p/DR4mu_TDnLU/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
• Bryce Viola V15 FA: https://www.instagram.com/p/DRN02KnDEIt/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
• Chaehyun Seo’s Oliana Trip: https://www.instagram.com/chaehyun.s/p/DRlCj1oEqyd/
• Adam Ondra Flashing V15: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wk4aKdXC9g

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Annie Sanders is the first American woman to win World Cups in both Bouldering and Lead. And she’s only 18 so she’s just getting started!

Hear about Annie’s breakout season and what’s in store for her future!

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• Who are your favorite competitors to watch and why?
• How do you deal with pressure in ISO before climbing?
• Which round has the hardest grades, Qualis / Semis / Finals?

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.

Board Climbs Mentioned:

• “Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy
• “All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Brian Squire
• “I Kneed You” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Michael Rosato
• “One Leg Vet” V9 @40 on the TB2 Spray, by Joshua Horsley

Media Mentioned:

• Sisu Project Video by Tension Climbing
• Burden Of Dreams Video by Tension Climbing
• “what it’s like to train on the world’s most legendary board” by Wheel Rock
• “Spray Wall Series: Episode 13 - Herm Feissner's Home Wall” by Tension Climbing

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• What are some off-the-wall exercises to get better at board climbing?
• What is the best angle for a non-adjustable home wall?

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BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% off your first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’.

‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy!

This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

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Visit our podcast page: HERE

Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space. 

Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last decade for everyone. Here is a link to get a Lifetime discount: https://plan.latticetraining.com/sign-up

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• Do you ever see people that perform significantly better than their testing metrics suggest? What is their ‘secret sauce’?
• Is it important to be a good climber if you want to be a good coach?
• How would you coach Will Bosi if decided that he wanted to compete in the 2028 Olympics?

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This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.

Look at the Chapters for today's topics.

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a different pair for training? And more…
• What does and does not factor into a grade? Approach? Morphology? Risk? Condition? And how FA’s decide to grade based on these factors.

UPDATE / CORRECTION: A CLIMBER WAS NOT SHOT AND KILLED BY A HUNTER IN THE SE. IT WAS A NON CLIMBER WHO WAS TRAGICALLY SHOT. MORE INFO HERE: https://bucks.crimewatchpa.com/da/29567/post/bucks-county-hunter-pleads-guilty-sentenced-7-20-years-killing-jason-kutt-nockamixon

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Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports.

In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some have an ‘X’ factor that give them broad appeal, and we discuss what that is and how to get it.

Tyler is also an incredible climber and success story in his own right. He went from a “typical” strong dirtbag to having a successful career in climbing, and he shares how you can do that too.

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• What are the most valuable skills for a professional climber to develop, in addition to their climbing ability?
• Does anyone make 9 figures in our industry? 8 figures? 7 figures?!
• What is the most outrageous sponsorship deal you were a part of that actually made sense?

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Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.

This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler!

Media Mentioned:

• Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2
• Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber”
• Wedge Video “This training board is legendary — here’s why”

Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):

• Tips for setting a spray wall? Did you set one?
• Why aren’t you on the leaderboards even though you climb all the hard ones?
• How do you like the 2024 MB?
• Are boards becoming more consistent between brands?
• Why is 8a harder on a board than outdoors? (Is it?!)
• Top 5 us boards vs top 5 euro boarders, who wins?

Join Patreon: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE