The Testpiece Podcast

By TestpieceSports

The Testpiece Podcast episodes

May 18#190 Ben Burkhalter — Building Your Pyramid, The Importance Of Sending, and The Problem With V17
Ben Burkhalter sent nearly all his projects this season, and this week he tells us how he did it — and how you can too. In this episode we discuss the problem with high end grades, the importance of sending as many boulders as you can, and the strongest climber ever.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Dissecting board grades
The hardest board climbs ever
SHOW NOTES:
Chronic by Ben Burkhalter and Tension Climbing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WENaQBs4YWM

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 43 min
May 11Good Temps #13 — Climbing Rubber For Your Big Toe, Zach Galla Sends Another V17, and The Massive TB2 Expansion
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Link to the 'Yubisac': https://www.instagram.com/p/DXsnAs0kywT/?img_index=3&igsh=dG5vaWN3aXZxYThx
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Developing landings and trails
What happened to Dreamtime

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 21 min
May 04#189 Adam Ondra — The Appeal Of Difficulty, Transferring Board Training to Rock, and Flashing 8C+/V16?
Adam Ondra is the world’s best climber. In 2017 he made the first ascent of the world’s first 9c / 5.15d, in 2025 he climbed Soudain Seul V17, and in the past few months he’s flashed 4 V15s.
This week he joins us to discuss his recent bouldering spree, his future plans, and what it takes to push climbing’s limits.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Why Adam likes boldness and adventure in climbing
Adam’s tips for falling the right way
Will Adam compete in the 2028 Olympics?
The ethics of glued holds and manufactured climbs
Do competitions actually test who’s the best climber?
Skipping bolts to improve performance

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 25 min
April 27Board Talk #11 — Repeating The TB2’s Hardest Climb, The Belay Board, and The Kilter Situation
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato from Tension Climbing, Max Zolotukhin from Sickos Social Club, and Joshua Horsley the host of Testpiece.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Discontinuing the TB1
How to convince a gym owner to buy a board

SHOW NOTES:
Sickos Social Club: https://www.sickossocialclub.com/podcast
Some Climbing News’s summary of the Kilter app situation: https://youtu.be/1GyjWN691M4?si=eoCpcIqYlIjzH6xz
Walltopia’s Quantum Board Belay: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek2dYciuaCY

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 40 min
April 20#188 Beckett Hsin — V17 At 16 Years Old, Following Your Psych, and The Ultimate Proj (Getting A Driver’s License)
16 year old Beckett Hsin just climbed bouldering’s hardest grade.
In this week’s episode, he and Josh discuss the path that took him here, the boulders that inspire him, and the power of psych. Beckett also tells us about his ambition to branch out from bouldering and explore everything that climbing has to offer.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Beckett’s experience with Lyme Disease
Tips for shorter climbers
Beckett’s strength metrics

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 8 min
April 13Good Temps #12 — Another 9c, A Barefoot Send, and Grandpa Peabody's Newest Line
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Is it ever okay to red-tag a boulder?
The politics and ethics of bolting a route

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 28 min
April 06#187 Sean Bailey — America’s Hardest Climb, Building The Perfect Gym, and Searching For Something Even Harder
After 2 insane years, Sean Bailey is back on the pod.
In this episode we break down Sean's hardest ascent to date, Duality of Man (5.15d) and the philosophy behind Next Gen, the new gym helmed by Sean and Nonaka Miho.

Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Is V17 or 5.15d harder?
Is Duality Of Man chipped?
Will Sean ever compete again?
Why has no one repeated any of the proposed 15d’s?

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 15 min
March 30Board Talk #10 with Sam Prior — The 2026 MoonSpray, Board Grades, and Are Board Climbers Bad Rock Climbers?
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Sam Prior and Joshua Horsley.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
The best and worst MoonBoard sets and holds
How is Ben Moon still so strong at nearly 60 years old?
What makes a benchmark a benchmark?
Sam’s favorite Careless Talk episode
The thing people don’t realize about climbing content

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 50 min
March 23#186 Tyler Nelson — Building Strong Shoulders, Doing The Right Amount Of Work, and The Problem With Prehab
One year later, Dr. Tyler Nelson is back!
Tyler is the owner and founder of Camp4 Human Performance and an expert on all things training. In this episode we discuss everything shoulders, including best exercises, rehab, what to avoid, and more.
Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut):
Are your hangs limited by finger strength or shoulder strength?
Do pressing exercises really “even out” climbers?
When to consider surgery

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 50 min
March 16Good Temps #11 — 16 Year Old Sends V17, Ondra Flashes 2 V15s In A Week, and The Future Of Comp Climbing
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.
Look at the Chapters for today's topics.
Patreon Content (join Patreon for extended cut with answers):
Deep dive on climbing shoes and their individual benefits
The history and future of rubber technology for shoes

Join Patreon: HERE
Follow us on Instagram: HERE
Visit our podcast page: HERE
1 hr 15 min