Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times!

Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15.

Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he’s just a ‘YouTuber’ and not a ‘real climber’.

THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.

SHOW NOTES:

• Emil’s Instagram
• Emil’s YouTube Channel
• Tension Climbing

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This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context!

Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one...

Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing!

SHOW NOTES:

• Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147
• Kenny Suh Instagram
• Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)
• Mad Rock Instagram
• Mad Rock Website

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

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Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock.

Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future.

Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what’s actually going on.

SHOW NOTES:

• Kenny Suh Instagram
• Article About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)
• Mad Rock Instagram
• Mad Rock Website

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA’ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US!

You’ll also recognize Chris’ voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions.

SHOW NOTES:

• Chris’ Instagram
• Chris on The Green Mile (14c) by LT11
• Chris on the FA of Galmbers Fallacy (13b multi pitch FA) by LT11
• Kong Extendo Cheater Draw

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte, right after Episode #144 was finished. 

We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!

Don’t miss Episode #144 for context!

SHOW NOTES:

• Chris Schulte’s Instagram
• Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page
• Chris Schulte’s Testpiece Episode #144

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Chris Schulte has been there and FA’d that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven’t met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! 

In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you’ll enjoy some new stories that you haven’t heard before.

SHOW NOTES:

• Chris Schulte’s Instagram
• Chris Schulte’s Black Diamond Page
• Josh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris)

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Simon Lorenzi has done more V17’s on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there’s a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt!

That’s because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17’s there.

This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen!

If you loved Simon as much as we do, we’ve got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing!

SHOW NOTES:

• Bushido Climbing
• Simon Lorenzi’s Instagram

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.

This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That’s a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.

Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.

Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.

SHOW NOTES:

• Rob Hunter’s Instagram
• Tyler Nelson’s Instagram
• Rob’s Business, My Therapy Physio
• Tyler’s Company, Camp 4 Human Performance
• Tyler’s YouTube Channel
• Tyler’s Demonstration Of Overcoming Isometrics
• Squeezing The Lemon / Orange Demonstration
• Tyler’s Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”
• Tyler’s Previous Testpiece Episode, #114

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE

This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo’ Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future.

Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18.

We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!

Don’t miss Episode #140 for context!

SHOW NOTES:

• Austin Hoyt’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/
• Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@Climbveez
• Austin Hoyt’s Testpiece Episode #140: https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHk

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE

Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately.

Austin recently FA’d the North East’s first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch’ beta for the iconic crux move.

Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it’s been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast.

SHOW NOTES:

• Austin Hoyt’s Instagram
• Austin Hoyt’s / Veez YouTube Channel
• Issac Leff’s YouTube Channel
• Beta labs (Austin’s Company)
• Mad Rock
• Decoy Holds
• Mimic Holds
• Testpiece Podcasts Mentioned:
  • Noah and Benn Wheeler
  • Adam Shahar
  • Ross Fulkerson

Support us on Patreon: HERE

Visit our podcast page: HERE

Follow us on Instagram: HERE