Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing

By Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing

What's Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing about?

Kris Hampton and Paul Corsaro from Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning discuss the research and studies that may or may not be applicable to the climbing world.

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Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing episodes:

10.23.2023
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with...
09.14.2022
Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?
In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in: Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Climbing Performance Authored by Krzysztof Sas-Nowosielski, Judyta Wyciślik, and Piotr Kaczka; published in the...
09.07.2022
Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews: Current Approaches on Warming up for Sports Performance: A Critical Review Authored by Maria Helena...
08.31.2022
Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple papers including: Use of ‘chalk’ in rock...
08.24.2022
What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female...
08.17.2022
Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skilled Motor Action Authored by Rob Gray; published in...
08.10.2022
Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gray; published in the International Review of Sport and Exercise...
08.03.2022
Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Relationships With Sport Performance Authored by Marcin Maciejczyk, Michail Lubomirov Michailov, Magdalena Więcek, Jadwiga Szymura, Robert...
07.27.2022
Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave...
07.20.2022
Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers: Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the shoulder injuries prevention in student rock climbers: a randomized...
07.13.2022
Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
In the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in climbers: The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climber’s isometric finger strength Authored by...
06.22.2022
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance. Performance Assessment for Rock Climbers: The International Rock Climbing Research...
06.15.2022
Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
For a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right with me. They weren't false, but they weren't the whole story. In this addendum episode we look at a...
06.15.2022
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented. Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability...
06.08.2022
Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches. *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Beall’s List of Potential Predatory Journals...
06.01.2022
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson. He explains his views on statistical models, p-values, and more — and breaks down how we should be looking at...
05.25.2022
Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what they learned from Season 1. They break down the specifics — from finger strength to injury prevention, flexibility to nutrition — that they’ll be incorporating into their own coaching and training going...
02.09.2022
Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez...
02.02.2022
Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss two papers that try to clear up the rumors surrounding one of the most popular supplements in sports nutrition: International Society of Sports Nutrition Position Stand: Safety and Efficacy of Creatine Supplementation in Exercise,...
01.26.2022
Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about: Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Boulder Climbers authored by Nicolay Stien, Atle Hole Saeterbakken, Espen Hermans,...
01.19.2022
Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study seeking to determine if there’s really a best way to train on a hangboard: Hangboard Training in Advanced Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial authored by Saskia Mundry, Gino Steinmetz, Dominik Saul, Elizabeth J...
01.12.2022
Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study examining a type of injury commonly seen in climbers: Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments authored by Keith Baar, published in Sports Medicine (Springer Nature) in 2017. They’ll attempt...
01.05.2022
How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a topic that every climber has to consider during their career - shoulder health - as examined in the study: Impact of 30 Years High-Level Rock Climbing on the Shoulder: an Magnetic Resonance Imaging...
12.29.2021
Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that might finally reveal why there are so many former gymnasts who can crush: Flexibility Assessment and the Role of Flexibility as a Determinant of Performance in Rock Climbing authored by Nick Draper,...
12.22.2021
Does Stretching Result in Power Loss?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a hotly-debated topic - not just in the climbing world but the greater athletic community: Acute Effects of Static Stretching on Muscle Strength and Power: An Attempt to Clarify Previous Caveats authored by Helmi Chaabene,...
12.15.2021
Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the study that led to climbers everywhere both blaming and training their fingertip pulp: Measuring Lifting Forces in Rock Climbing: Effect of Hold Size and Fingertip Structure authored by Roger Bourne, Mark Halaki, Benedicte Vanwanseele,...
12.08.2021
Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite...
11.01.2021
Introducing Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast
Is it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers? That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer...

What's Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing about?

Download our free app to listen on your phone

Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing episodes:

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?

Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?

Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?

Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery

Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing

Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?

Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?

Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?

Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?

Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?

Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?

Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?

Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?

How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?

Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?

Does Stretching Result in Power Loss?

Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?

Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Introducing Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast

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