Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?


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In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers:

Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers

Authored by David Giles, Kimberly Barnes, Nicola Taylor, Corinna Chidley, Joel Chidley, James Mitchell, Oliver Torr, Edward Gibson-Smith, and Vanesa España-Romero; published in the Journal of Sports Sciences in August, 2020.

They’ll discuss the data that was collected from each climber and which measurements seem to be indicative of climbing performance. They’ll talk about some of the correlations revealed and Dale will explain how these compare to trends he’s seen in the Power Company’s data on female climbers.

 

Have Dale crunch the numbers for you - check out our Mini-Assessment + Analysis!

 

New episodes of Breaking Beta drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!

And please, tell all of your female friends who say they are too short to be a good climber that you have the perfect podcast for them.

 

Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.

Season 2 of Breaking Beta is proudly supported by Gnarly Sports Nutrition. For a limited time, Breaking Beta listeners can take 15% off their purchase using the code BETA15 at checkout! Or simply click the link above to shop and have the discount automatically applied.

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If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

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Breaking Beta | The Science of ClimbingBy Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing

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