Modus Cafe: Conversations Beyond Climbing

Our time is valuable! To help you make the most of your sessions, we have 5 Time Saving Tips for projecting sport climbs. These tips are targeted towards sending a sport route quickly in terms of how many sessions are spent on a route. Perhaps you're on a trip, or you have short seasons - you'll benefit from learning these tips!

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:01:20 Tip 1 - Bolt to Bolt

00:04:26 Tip 2 - Find the right project

00:06:55 Tip 3 - Finding your rest spots

00:10:19 Tip 4 - Practice the top

00:13:12 Tip 5 - Visualization & memorization

Today's time-saving episode is about the TOP 5 Time-Saving Tips for Projecting Outside! (Don't fret, you can use these for indoor bouldering too). If you find you're short on time, or just want to send your project faster - use these helpful, practiced tactics to set yourself up for success!

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Shout out to Kaya Climbing https://kayaclimb.com/

00:01:29 Tip 1 - Gather Beta

00:05:27 Tip 2 - You don't have to start from the beginning

00:06:26 Tip 3 - Do each move in isolation

00:10:48 Tip 4 - Rest a lot

00:15:15 Tip 5 - Dial the top out of the boulder

Today we're talking about how to increase climbing capacity for longer days outside. This was a member question that we touched on in our Q&A episode, and here we are with more context. Learn what capacity means, specific examples, and what increasing capacity can mean to you as a climber. This is a great nugget of information for those wanting to identify where you need to work your capacity.

OPEN ENROLLMENT! Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:01:03 Mercedes' outdoor "office" today & her outdoor goals this month

00:02:41 What "Capacity" means

00:03:59 How we like to prepare athletes

00:05:08 Examples of how Mercedes is increasing capacity in a specific way, explanation of "what is moderate?"

00:13:51 Let's talk intensity and volume

00:18:11 The importance of goals & a flexible mindset

00:19:55 "Hard" is relative & increasing conditioning

00:23:53 How Katja prepares for rope climbing season

00:29:31 How to identify where you need to work your capacity

We believe in redefining training - it's not just for hardcore athletes, it's for everybody. Join Katja today for another episode of "normal people who climb." In our 2nd member interview I am joined by long term member Kris Eaton as she shares her story and passion for climbing training as a lifestyle to be pursued until old age.

OPEN ENROLLMENT! Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

The inspiring interview with member Alissa: https://youtu.be/s0tPMR2_6uo?si=pPanyY32qoKh6GHm

00:01:58 Getting to know Modus member: Kris

00:05:54 The beginning of Kris' climbing journey

00:12:08 What competition and climbing look like for Kris now, & a competition story!

00:26:05 Let's talk training. Previous coaches & her experience with Modus.

00:32:16 Shoutout to Mercedes!

00:33:27 Kris' first group zoom as a member of Modus: rest as hard as you train!

00:35:24 Reestablishing Modus' philosophy for training

00:40:02 Membership & Modus training plans for whatever is happening in your life

00:43:44 Modus coaches and community support you staying active & integrate training with body, mind, family, work

00:46:00 Last minute words & tips from Kris about the Modus Climbing Training Membership

Today we're answering our listener's questions! Also, it's OPEN ENROLLMENT for our Climbing Training Membership! The Modus motto "Strong, Healthy Humans Make Strong, Healthy Climbers" is clear in today's episode where you'll learn just why we care for and coach the whole person - not just the climber. Also, get a peek of the basic framework of our membership and hear some Listener Q&A's about balancing priorities, making friends at the wall, getting enough protein, and more!

OPEN ENROLLMENT! Sign up for our training membership TODAY: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Link to the inspiring interview with member Alissa: https://youtu.be/s0tPMR2_6uo?si=pPanyY32qoKh6GHm

Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:00:40 Membership is open! Why we care about our membership, and why it's for everyone.

00:09:35 Basic framework of the Modus training plan

00:12:22 Shout out to our Nutrition Coach Amanda Fitt. Members can access to nutrition calls and course.

00:13:00 Our member community holds the standard for supportive communication.

00:14:15 A Modus core belief

00:16:04 A membership bonus: meetups

00:17:15 First Q&A: Climbing and being a mom

00:21:53 Q: Making friends

00:28:39 Q: How to eat enough protein when you're not a meat eater.

00:37:32 Q: Flow state

00:42:47 Q: How to increase boulder session in a day

00:47:39 Q: How to improve overall foundations

We're at the end of the training series with Steve Bechtel. Today we put our training knowledge together and talk about how to create your own training program. Whether you're a boulderer, sport climber, or non-competitive climber, this episode is for you. Previously we've talked about energy systems, mental tactics, performance, and today we're cramming in a lot more info on how to put together a climbing training program! If you need a reminder on power endurance, essentials of strength climbing, recovery, and much more - go back and have a listen to the other episodes in this training series with Steve!  

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together  

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:01:11 How to frame "training"

00:07:04 How to decide what to focus on when creating an off-season plan

00:12:47 Skill goals vs grade goals

00:15:21 How to balance working on weakness & strengths

00:19:27 Less measurable qualities, less obvious progression

00:24:48 When and if to work on finger strength 00:29:00

How to put a training program together

00:38:36 Minimum guideline: how little you can train

00:44:01 Pre-season focus

00:46:39 Performance phase balance

00:50:16 Should we schedule de-loads

01:02:29 Recommendations for sport climbers without rope access

01:07:18 How to train endurance to come back during outdoor season

01:15:45 Making room for board climbing training

What do good training plans and good smoothies have in common? Katja is on fire with this analogy! First we ask: what is training? What do you think of when it comes to being trained? Learn what we at Modus believe about training & perhaps shift the view in your climbing training program! We give you the components for good training and good smoothies as we discuss ingredients, dosage, combination and balance, and enjoyment! Stay until the end for details on a free event happening soon!  

 Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:00:41 Define training

00:05:01 Good training plans and good smoothies

00:07:38 Component 1: Ingredients for good training. General strength, specific strength, technique & skill drills, and flexibility

00:12:10 Mercedes' tip for vegetables and strength training

00:13:28 Skipping to Component 3: Combination & balance.

00:15:28 Component 4: Enjoyment, add the honey.

00:17:36 Make a beautiful blend in your training program: train your weaknesses, different combinations, training plans are individualized just like smoothies.

00:20:29 Component 2: Dosage of ingredients to support your health.

00:24:00 YOU'RE INVITED! Free 2 day event where questions are answered by the Modus team

Click the link to join the upcoming free event! https://www.modusathletica.com/train-smart-climb-harder

In today's episode we're going to talk about what you can expect from climbing coaching, specifically with us at Modus! Curious about one-on-one coaching or group coaching? Find out about the advantages of working with Modus, and which climbing training you'd best fit in! Plus learn about the benefits of one-on-one and group coaching. We share our experiences being coached, expectations of coaching, and the Modus philosophy. 

Share your experience with Modus in the comments!  

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together  

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass  

00:00:45 Katja's personal experiences being coached by Mercedes

00:09:25 Mercedes' experiences being coached

00:16:46 Unrealistic expectations of coaching

00:17:58 Modus philosophy vs quick programs; How we coach at Modus

00:29:29 Advantages of Modus one-on-one coaching

00:34:42 Advantages of Modus group coaching via the training membership Stronger Together

00:37:01 Beneficial differences between one-on-one and group coaching

00:41:44 Choosing a coach

Are you a beginner to board climbing? This Part 2 episode is for you! We're going over the top tips to get you started on a training board. Katja and I both use training boards in our own training and in coaching. Today's episode is jam packed with tips on how to get started, and let's not forget etiquette! Have a listen, and start training with us today!

Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

00:00:45 Recommended boards & personal faves

00:16:22 Getting started, Tip 1: Angle adjustments

00:23:46 Tip 2: Turn off the lights

00:29:05 Tip 3: Positional isometrics

00:33:00 Tip 4: You belong

00:38:41 Etiquette, Tip 1: communicate

00:44:30 Tip 2: brushing (and making some friends)

00:48:22 Mercedes remembers her thought to add to the communication tip

00:49:44 Katja shares when she was given beta spray she didn't ask for

00:54:06 Encouragement

We're discussing performance climbing with Steve Bechtel today! Seems straightforward, but there can be some confusion about what you can actually achieve during a performance climbing phase, and how can we as athletes manage our expectations around it. Join our conversation as we talk about optimizing the conditions that lead to a great performance phase.

Free ways to work with us: Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

Want On-Demand training programs to help you get to the next level? Join Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

00:1:10 Ideas of performance

00:03:40 Reaching performance peaks as an advanced climbing athlete & managing expectations

00:11:20 Focusing on wins, mental side of "forward," consistency

00:21:29 How to navigate performance for the folks who don't go outside very often

00:25:48 Balancing stoke to perform and preparing for a performance phase

00:32:02 Strategies to maintain strength during performance phase, & nutrition

00:39:09 Does skill level affect ability to reach a performance phase

00:43:17 Ability to adapt to new areas and how that can affect reaching performance phases

00:49:41 Navigate pressure you may put on yourself as an athlete

00:53:27 Battling the excuse: complaining

00:56:54 Mental endurance will get you through