Modus Cafe: Conversations Beyond Climbing

In this episode, Mercedes shares some awesome updates, including her exciting new van purchase, her training journey over the past 12 weeks (following the Modus training program!), and her climbing achievements in Joshua Tree. (Check out the link below for a 3 month membership special to join us in gaining some wins this year!) Also, Mercedes discusses the importance of community in her life, so look out for some future in-person workshops coming your way! Keep an eye out for social media changes, and future collaborations. Lastly, join the joy as Mercedes discusses her goals for the year.

Here's the link to the 3 month membership special: https://www.modusathletica.com/offers/C5hDL5aq

If you'd like to work one-on-one with me, visit my website for more details https://www.modusathletica.com/coaching

Intro To Training Masterclass is free way to work with me: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:00:50 Exciting wish list purchase!
00:02:26 Mercedes' training progress in the last 12 weeks
00:11:25 Best Joshua Tree season ever
00:14:52 Modus Training new member special
00:15:18 Community and new Modus face-to-face classes!
00:17:12 Social media switch up
00:18:20 Collaborations with GMB in Seattle. More locomotion and movement training
00:19:19 Fave show and current read
00:21:11 Goals for the year
00:22:31 Co-host/Coach Katja update

Calling all intermediate and advanced climbers! Let's discuss the concept of periodization in climbing. Mercedes is here to explain how to effectively plan a year of training to peak performance TWICE! Come have a listen and learn about the basics of periodization, including the structure of macro, meso, and micro cycles which include base building, transitioning to specific strength, performance, and power development. Mercedes also addresses common challenges climbers face throughout the year. Don't miss the companion article Mercedes wrote for today's episode (link below)! And drop a comment with questions or let us know if you're ready to reach your Peak Performance.

The Climber’s Guide To Periodization: A Focus For Every Season https://www.modusathletica.com/blog/the-climber-s-guide-to-periodization-a-focus-for-every-season

If you'd like to work one-on-one with me, visit my website for more details https://www.modusathletica.com/coaching

Intro To Training Masterclass is another free way to work with me: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:01:56 What is Periodization?
00:02:44 The three Phases
00:4:28 Rooted in two Principles
00:06:32 How to plan a year
00:14:45 Phase 1: Winter Phase - base building endurance and general strength
00:20:07 Phase 2: Transition phase from base building to specific strength
00:24:50 Phase 3: Performance Phase - Get on your project and maintain your strength
00:26:20 Power development
00:32:11 Reach your Second Performance Phase, and then make an end-of-year choice.
00:33:44 What about when things come up?

Wondering why you're straying from your training plan? Let's talk about the importance of assessments in climbing & how they can help you understand your strengths and weaknesses. Today with Mercedes, explore the various types of assessments found in her Climbing & Health Self-Assessment Questionnaire, which include your physical status, technique, and mental aspects in training. Understand the significance of consistency, and that regular reassessment really is a great way to track progress and to ensure continuous improvement in your climbing performance!

Here's the link to the Climbing & Health Self-Assessment Questionnaire on my website: https://www.modusathletica.com/blog/climbing-health-self-assessment-questionnaire

If you'd like to work one-on-one with me, visit my website for more details https://www.modusathletica.com/coaching

Intro To Training Masterclass is another free way to work with me: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

The 9c strength test Magnus Midtbø: https://youtu.be/UOBB4wkTdxQ?si=KFHpzxwhcM3MjjjG

Strength Climbing Calculator: https://strengthclimbing.com/sport-climbing-level-calculator/

00:00:18 Assessments provide clarity & direction specific to your climbing training.

00:04:14 Consistency in training is crucial for improvement

00:04:55 My questionnaire includes assessments for specific strength, general strength, power, mobility, confidence, and general health.

00:12:51 Precision Nutrition "4 Crazy Questions"

Let's kickstart the 2025 New Year with a blueprint for your best year of climbing! In this podcast, I emphasize the importance of setting personal goals that resonate with your values and motivations. The focus here is YOU. You may be inspired by someone else's goals, but I want you to focus on what is important to YOU rather than following external expectations. Keep listening as I share actionable steps to achieve these goals, the inevitable roadblocks, and the significance of maintaining a positive mindset. I encourage you to take this blueprint and make it your own while you celebrate even the small wins, and stay curious in your climbing journey!

00:00:25 Creating a blueprint that works for you, not what works for someone else

00:03:05 The importance of Joy

00:03:30 Creating meaningful goals for myself, actions to achieve those goals that resonate with me

00:09:24 It's your turn: think intrinsically to align your goals to your values and identities

00:10:34 What actions are you excited about that can help you reach your goal

00:11:00 Let's consider gauging your strength

00:13:37 Choosing strength training that works for you & climbing self-assessment

00:19:11 Roadblocks

00:21:28 Personal philosophies, what are yours?

If you'd like to work one-on-one with me, visit my website for more details https://www.modusathletica.com/coaching

Why you might not need mindset work around fear of falling. Katja is with us again on this episode to talk all about mindset and fear. She is passionate about this topic and her approach to climbers with fear might surprise you. Today we're talking about our nervous system, being thankful, and fear-shaming. We have tips, questions, and powerful information on ways to regulate and teach your body how to respond when you feel fearful when climbing. Come have a listen and expand your knowledge if you've ever had a fear of falling. (Congratulations, you're human!) Do you have anything to add? Drop some comments below!

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Intro To Training Masterclass is another free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:01:45 What is fear & how does it serve us

00:09:01 Observations from witnessing when people have fallen

00:10:45 Importance on being okay to come down

00:14:03 Fear has its place

00:17:05 Befriend your fear: Listen to it so you can trust it when it shows up

00:29:07 "Just go for it" and "just calm down" doesn't work. Teach your nervous system

00:34:40 Two ways of regulating our nervous system

00:36:50 Falling, skillset, and mindset

00:41:07 Fear of falling or fear of failing or fear of success

00:47:00 Unpacking your body and thoughts through journaling

00:49:31 The shaming effect around fear

00:51:03 Fear of judgement

Let's talk building finger strength for beginner climbers. We're going to go over protocols and common practices so you can approach finger strength with longevity in mind. Do you believe finger strength is the most important thing to focus on? Because I don't. (Okay, it's in the top 3.) But hear me out: technique. Technique paired with consistency, intentionality, and curiosity will help build familiarity around hold positions, and you'll learn movement and strength. So have a listen to this week's episode and let's dive into finger training.

00:03:20 It's not just finger strength

00:04:15 What are your fingers doing

00:07:15 Hold proper hand positions with intention

00:08:34 Take this intentional approach to a training board

00:09:07 Time Under Tension

00:11:55 No Hang Protocol

00:22:25 Longevity in finger training

00:24:40 Other ways to improve grip strength and finger strength

00:26:15 Recovery example: rice bucket

Check out my special offers below!

50% off Programs using code 5YEARSOMG at checkout 👇

Pulling Strong: Get your 1st or 10th pull up: https://www.modusathletica.com/pulling-strong

Hanging Tough: Improve Grip and Shoulder Strength https://www.modusathletica.com/hanging-tough

Minimalist Flexibility https://www.modusathletica.com/minimalist-flexibility

New Member Offer: First 3 months for $97, use this checkout link to claim your discount https://www.modusathletica.com/offers/C5hDL5aq/checkout

Emil's YouTube Videos: Original No Hang Video: https://youtu.be/sBTI9qiH4UE?si=NFjnIIodobQmmRHl

Follow-up: https://youtu.be/XXrDQ8PCAmI?si=Y6hC1sqQ7BFstv_U

Rice Bucket video: https://youtu.be/fpa_30upVTA

Research studies:

Intermediate and advanced protocols for hangboarding: López-Rivera E, González-Badillo JJ. Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers. J Hum Kinet. 2019 Mar 27;66:183-195. doi: 10.2478/hukin-2018-0057. PMID: 30988852; PMCID: PMC6458579.

Original Keith Barr Study Emil used to create the no hangs protocol: Baar, K. (2017). Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments. Sports Medicine (Auckland, N.z.), 47(Suppl 1), 5. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40279-017-0719-x

Follow-up study with Keith Baar and Emil Gilmore, N. K., Klimek, P., Abrahamsson, E., & Baar, K. (2024). Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers. Sports Medicine - Open, 10(1), 1-11. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7

In this episode I share actionable tips to make your winter climbing training fun and fresh. I love winter training & that's when I see measurable progress. You can beat the distractions of outdoor climbs, ditch the drive, and enjoy simple and focused winter climbing training. I know sometimes it can feel like a grind to get motivated, and things can feel heavier when it's dark and dreary, but these tips will keep you out of the funk. Make a mini-plan using this winter training gym checklist!

00:02:49 What are your strength and weaknesses. Think terrains, holds, tactical, body strength, etc. 00:05:17 Create constraints in your gym session. Play a game!

00:07:43 Try a themed session

00:08:32 Circuit training

00:10:26 Strength training, but play it safe.

00:14:28 Flexibility training

00:15:10 Quick tips about recovery

00:15:53 Highlight those wins, keep your motivation

Check out my special offers below!

50% off Programs using code 5YEARSOMG at checkout 👇

Pulling Strong: Get your 1st or 10th pull up: https://www.modusathletica.com/pulling-strong

Hanging Tough: Improve Grip and Shoulder Strength https://www.modusathletica.com/hanging-tough

Minimalist Flexibility https://www.modusathletica.com/minimalist-flexibility

New Member Offer: First 3 months for $97, use this checkout link to claim your discount https://www.modusathletica.com/offers/C5hDL5aq/checkout

In today's episode I'm talking Recovery Techniques in the form of Recovery Rituals. These rituals will help you be more energetic, lower your risk of injury, and you'll enjoy better climbing sessions. Find out the role of energy in your body, and how it effects your recovery. Also learn how to reevaluate your training intensity and volume, as well as create better habits around nutrition, sleep, your recovery techniques, and mental well being. All of this can affect how you recover. Whether you're preparing for an indoor project or simply wanting to feel less tired during your climbing sessions, stick around for some great info!

00:01:33 What recovery actually is: energy

00:06:26 Are you thriving or just surviving your climbing sessions

00:07:29 What is happening in the body during a workout session & how recovery works to rectify those things

00:10:52 How to jumpstart your recovery

00:13:43 Track everything; highlighting the role of intensity and volume

00:14:55 Guidelines on how to increase load

00:18:17 Leave a session feeling snappy

00:18:52 Nutrition: Macro nutrients, minerals, and micro nutrients

00:22:28 Sleep

00:24:06 Active and passive recovery strategies

00:31:15 Mental and emotional side of recovery

00:34:04 Common mistakes and beliefs that climbers have

00:37:55 Implementing these recovery strategies

00:42:00 Challenge!

Here's my free Flexibility Foundations Course: https://www.modusathletica.com/flexibility-foundations-opt-in

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together I

ntro To Training Masterclass is another free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

References:

Gabbett, T. J. (2016).** The training-injury prevention paradox: should athletes be training smarter and harder? **British Journal of Sports Medicine, 50(5), 273-280. https://bjsm.bmj.com/content/50/5/273

Kellmann, M., & Kallus, K. W. (2001). Recovery-Stress Questionnaire for Athletes: User Manual.

Philippe, M., Wegst, D., Müller, T., Raschner, C., & Burtscher, M. (2012). Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers. European Journal of Applied Physiology, 112(8), 2839-2847.

Haff, G. G., & Periodization Research Team. (2014).Periodization strategies for strength power athletes. Strength & Conditioning Journal, 36(4), 14-24.

Today let's redefine "old age" when it comes to climbing. We love busting some myths! It's so inspiring to see "older" people climb and find JOY while climbing. "Old" is relative, of course. So let's jump in this conversation together and change the way we think of old age. Age is not a limit!

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:01:06 The Nationals in SLC

00:02:45 Inspiration from Chris Sharma, age 43

00:04:00 Nationals predications

00:08:17 Something beautiful that comes with age

00:10:05 You can probably do a lot more than you think

00:14:08 Lifetime sport

00:15:58 Western culture and the value of wisdom

00:16:38 Common misconception on age & body functions

00:18:06 It's the decisions we make & lifestyle change

00:25:10 If you don't use it, you lose it

00:26:48 Just get started

00:28:12 Interesting question about training: short term or long term?

00:35:15 Keep training, it's not your age!

Happy 1 Year Podcast Anniversary! At Modus, Mercedes is celebrating 5 years since starting this business and Katja is celebrating 3 years since joining, and together we're going behind the scenes to talk about what it's like to run a business, why we started this podcast, and where it's going. We think of it like climbing - there's a lot of joy that goes into it, as climbers we do hard things and love sending; but not every piece of the project is fun, right? Like your skin hurts, or it's cold outside. That's the same with a business! But we're here - following our passion of climbing, educating this community, and sharing the joy! Join our conversation and feel free to comment your thoughts!

Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together

Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass

00:04:20 Why we started the podcast

00:10:13 Wishes, dreams, desires for the next year

00:12:02 The business of business

00:16:10 Top 3 challenges

00:20:44 Shout out to the team

00:21:55 Choosing high quality tools for high quality content

00:23:10 Starting out: female, CSCS certified, introducing coaching to climbers (what?!), the pandemic, then a flooded market

00:24:30 Mindset: I am not an influencer, I am a Coach. A check for Mercedes' Ego

00:29:35 Social media

00:32:12 Katja's transition to Modus, her most precious resource for her life, and dealing with technology in business.

00:44:00 The next 5 years