A Scottish Castle A Day

Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re heading to the rugged coastline of western Scotland to explore Dunstaffnage Castle. This formidable stronghold, perched on a rocky promontory at the entrance to Loch Etive, has witnessed centuries of Scottish history—from the fierce clashes between the MacDougalls and Robert the Bruce to its role in the Jacobite risings.

Dunstaffnage Castle, known in Scottish Gaelic as Caisteal Dhùn Stadhainis, is one of the oldest stone castles in Scotland. Built in the 13th century, it’s part of a local group of ancient castles that includes Castle Sween and Castle Tioram. Dunstaffnage stands guard over a highly strategic location—protecting the seaward approaches from the Firth of Lorn to the interior of Scotland through the Pass of Brander. This massive fortress continues to awe visitors, its sturdy walls a reminder of a time when control over land and sea was fiercely contested.

Before the stone walls of Dunstaffnage rose from this dramatic landscape, there may have been an ancient Dál Riatan stronghold here, dating as far back as the 7th century. Legend even claims that the famous Stone of Destiny was housed at Dunstaffnage before it was moved to Scone Palace in 843. However, some historians suggest more likely candidates for this honor are Dunadd or Iona. Regardless, Dunstaffnage’s location along the rugged Argyll coast would have made it a critical site long before the imposing castle we see today was constructed.

The castle as we know it began to take shape in the 13th century under the MacDougall lords of Lorn. The MacDougalls were descendants of Somerled, the powerful Lord of the Isles, and it was likely his grandson, Duncan MacDougall, who built Dunstaffnage. Duncan’s family was deeply rooted in the region—he also founded Ardchattan Priory nearby and sought to solidify his power with this formidable new stronghold. Duncan’s son, Ewen MacDougall, further expanded the family’s influence, even styling himself as “King of the Isles” despite the MacDonalds holding that official title.

Ewen likely added the three round towers to the castle, enhancing its defenses and making a bold statement of the MacDougall's power. By the late 13th century, the castle’s thick walls were already serving a critical role in guarding the surrounding lands and waters from potential invaders.

But this dominance didn’t last forever. As with many powerful Scottish families, the MacDougalls found themselves on the wrong side of history during the Wars of Scottish Independence. They backed John Balliol against Robert the Bruce, a choice that would lead to disaster for their clan. In 1308, Robert the Bruce decisively defeated the MacDougalls at the Battle of the Pass of Brander. After his victory, Bruce laid siege to Dunstaffnage, and the castle fell into his hands. However, unlike other castles he captured, Bruce did not destroy Dunstaffnage. Instead, he saw its strategic potential and appointed a constable to maintain the fortress as a royal stronghold.

Following its capture by Robert the Bruce, Dunstaffnage became a Crown property. Over the centuries, it passed through the hands of various keepers and saw continued use as a royal fortress. James I seized the castle in 1431, and it became a base for royal expeditions during the 15th and 16th centuries, especially against the MacDonalds, the Clan Campbell’s old rivals. The Campbells themselves took control of the castle in the late 15th century, after James III granted it to Colin Campbell, the 1st Earl of Argyll.

Under the Campbells, Dunstaffnage continued to serve as a key military site. During the Civil War, the castle withstood attacks, and it was later burned by royalist forces in 1685 after the failure of the Earl of Argyll’s rebellion against James VII. Yet, through it all, Dunstaffnage stood firm. It even played a part in the Jacobite risings of 1715 and 1745, when government troops garrisoned the fortress.

One of Dunstaffnage’s most famous prisoners arrived in 1746—Flora MacDonald. After aiding Bonnie Prince Charlie’s dramatic escape from the British, Flora was captured and briefly imprisoned in the castle before being sent to the Tower of London. Her time at Dunstaffnage was short, but it adds to the castle’s rich tapestry of historical events.

The architecture of Dunstaffnage is as impressive as its history. The castle’s thick stone curtain walls stand up to 60 feet tall, wrapping around a roughly rectangular courtyard. Originally, only narrow arrow slits broke the surface of the walls, but these were later widened into gunloops as warfare evolved. The three round towers that Ewen MacDougall added are still prominent features today, although the east tower was replaced by a gatehouse in the 15th century, when the Campbells rebuilt much of the structure.

The gatehouse, a four-story tower, was remodeled in the 18th century to serve as a more comfortable residence for the Campbells. While much of the castle has been altered or rebuilt over the years, it still retains the imposing presence it had during its medieval heyday.

And, like many ancient Scottish castles, Dunstaffnage has its ghost. The "Ell-maid of Dunstaffnage," a type of gruagach, is said to haunt the castle, her appearances linked to significant events in the lives of the hereditary keepers, the Captains of Dunstaffnage.

By the 19th century, Dunstaffnage had fallen into decay, and an accidental fire in 1810 rendered the gatehouse uninhabitable. The hereditary captains ceased to live in the castle, moving instead to a nearby residence. Restoration efforts began in the early 20th century, but it wasn’t until 1958 that the castle was handed into the care of the state. Today, Dunstaffnage Castle is maintained by Historic Environment Scotland and remains open to the public. The hereditary Captain of Dunstaffnage still holds the title, although it is now more ceremonial, requiring only that they spend three nights in the castle each year.

Today, Dunstaffnage Castle remains a symbol of Scotland’s turbulent history, a silent sentinel on the Argyll coast. Whether you’re drawn by its dramatic location, its medieval architecture, or the fascinating stories of the people who lived, fought, and died within its walls, Dunstaffnage Castle is a must-see for anyone exploring the rich history of Scotland.

Thank you for joining us on today’s episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." We hope you’ve enjoyed this journey through the halls and history of Dunstaffnage Castle. Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we explore another of Scotland’s grand castles. I’m Colin MacDonald, and until next time, Slán go fóill.

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to A Scottish Castle, A Day, brought to you by BagTownClans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we venture to the scenic and storied Castle Huntly. Situated on a dramatic volcanic knoll of dolerite in Perthshire, this grand fortress boasts sweeping views across the Carse of Gowrie. Rising about 50 feet above the surrounding countryside, Castle Huntly commands not only the landscape but also our imaginations, as it weaves together centuries of history, architectural evolution, and the lives of the noble families who called it home.

Castle Huntly dates back to the 15th century, with its oldest sections featuring the classic tower and jamb design typical of Scottish fortified architecture from that era. Built of sturdy Kingoodie red sandstone, the walls seamlessly blend into the volcanic rock upon which the castle stands, creating an almost organic fusion between the natural landscape and human craftsmanship. The genius of this design is evident in the way the castle appears to grow out of the very earth itself, its stone walls melding with the rugged rock face as if they were always part of the same structure.

The castle’s original keep was strategically designed for defense. As with many castles of its time, there were no accessible windows on the ground floor, and it had only one heavily fortified door. The entrance to the keep was several feet above the rock foundation, requiring either a ladder or a raised platform for entry—further evidence of its focus on security. The stonework around the castle, while not finely cut in all areas, was incredibly durable, designed to withstand attacks as well as the passage of time.

Vaulted ceilings—another hallmark of medieval Scottish architecture—were a significant feature of Castle Huntly. These robust stone ceilings were built with compressive loading in mind, ensuring they could bear the weight of upper floors without the need for timber reinforcements. This technique not only allowed for strong defensive structures but also created ample storage space in the castle’s cellars, where wine racks carved from stone still remain to this day. The cellars, with walls nearly 10 feet thick in places, were also ideal for preserving food and supplies, maintaining a cool, stable temperature year-round.

One particularly infamous part of Castle Huntly is the pit prison—a fearsome dungeon carved directly out of the rock beneath the castle. Measuring 12 by 17 feet with a 15-foot-high ceiling, this dark, dank chamber was a brutal place of confinement. The only light and ventilation came through a tiny slit high in the wall, and prisoners could only be lowered into the pit via a trapdoor from the guardroom above. Such was the grim reality of medieval justice.

Throughout its long history, Castle Huntly has undergone several significant renovations, particularly in the 17th and 18th centuries. The castle was transformed from a stark medieval stronghold into a more comfortable residence for the noble families who inhabited it. In 1660, the Earl of Strathmore, who had taken ownership of the castle, began extensive alterations. Among these changes was the addition of a new doorway on the north-east side of the castle and the development of what is now known as the Mezzanine Landing. These renovations were part of a broader trend during the post-medieval period, where defensive needs lessened, and comfort and aesthetics became more important.

By the late 18th century, the castle’s defensive features were largely obsolete. In 1776, George Paterson added Georgian wings to the north-east elevation, enhancing the castle’s grandeur and transforming it into a stately residence. A central round tower or lantern was added to the roof, raising the castle’s height to an impressive 116 feet. These architectural updates reflected the evolving needs and tastes of Scotland’s nobility during this period. Gone were the days of constant threat from invaders or rival clans, replaced by the desire for lavish, comfortable homes.

Interestingly, during these renovations in the late 1700s, workers uncovered a deep ditch filled with wood ash and other ancient materials, indicating that the site had been occupied long before Castle Huntly was built. This discovery ties the castle to a much older history, possibly reaching back to the Iron Age, when such volcanic knolls would have been natural defensive strongholds.

In the mid-20th century, Castle Huntly entered yet another phase of its long history when it passed into public ownership. For a time, it even served as a borstal—a type of youth detention center. Though this chapter is a far cry from its noble origins, it speaks to the adaptability of the structure and its continued relevance in modern times. Today, the castle is part of a national effort to preserve Scotland’s architectural heritage, ensuring that future generations can experience its rich history firsthand.

As we reflect on Castle Huntly’s five centuries of history, we see not just a castle but an evolving entity. From its 15th-century origins as a fortress, through its transformation into a grand Georgian mansion, and even its time as a correctional facility, Castle Huntly has continuously adapted to the changing needs of its inhabitants and society.

Thank you for joining us on this episode of A Scottish Castle, A Day. I hope you’ve enjoyed exploring the captivating history of Castle Huntly with me, Colin MacDonald. Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we delve into the story of yet another remarkable piece of Scotland’s castle heritage. Until next time, slán go fóill!

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re taking a journey through the history of Guthrie Castle, a magnificent estate in Angus, Scotland. Guthrie Castle stands in the village of Guthrie, approximately 10 kilometers east of Forfar, and is a structure that not only holds centuries of history but also has links to some of Scotland’s most iconic figures and events.

The name “Guthrie” is believed to be derived from “Guthrum,” a Scandinavian prince who settled in the region in the early days of Scottish history. However, the Guthrie family's legacy truly began in 1299 when a Squire Guthrie was dispatched to France by the Northern Lords of Scotland. His mission? To bring Sir William Wallace, Scotland's famed freedom fighter, back to his homeland to continue the battle against English forces. Guthrie succeeded in his task, embarking from Arbroath, landing at Calais, and safely returning Wallace to Montrose—a feat that cemented the Guthrie family’s role in Scotland’s storied past.

Fast forward to the 15th century, and the Guthrie name was once again etched into history. In 1468, Sir David Guthrie, who served as both Treasurer and Lord Justice-General of Scotland under King James III, was granted the barony of Guthrie. With royal authority, Sir David embarked on the construction of a castle, complete with a fortified entrance gate, or “yett,” that would serve as the stronghold of the Guthrie family for centuries to come.

Guthrie Castle, as originally built by Sir David, was a square tower house—an architectural style typical of 15th-century Scotland. This tower, which now houses the library, Guthrie suite, an ancient bedroom, and what is now the snooker room, was the heart of the estate. Around 1760, the family opted to expand their living space, constructing a separate house nearby. However, it wasn’t until 1848, under the guidance of John Guthrie and architect David Bryce, that the two structures were combined. Bryce’s baronial-style expansion created the majestic castle that stands today, complete with a finely paneled hall, an oak staircase, and well-appointed rooms like the West Bedroom, now known as the Guthrie Suite.

The architectural beauty of Guthrie Castle is matched by its lush surroundings. The castle is flanked by two remarkable gardens: a historic walled garden and a wildflower garden. The walled garden, which spans over two acres, features yew hedges shaped into a Celtic Cross, a unique and stunning piece of horticultural history. While the exact date of the walled garden’s construction is unclear, some believe it was built by monks in the early 1600s. Adjacent to this lies the wildflower garden, where the castle’s original yett now serves as an entrance. These gardens add an extra layer of tranquility and natural beauty to the already picturesque estate.

Of course, no Scottish castle would be complete without a ghost story. Guthrie Castle has long been rumored to be haunted. According to family lore, the ghost was last seen by a member of the Guthrie family when she was just a little girl. Since then, other mysterious experiences have occurred, especially after the Pena family took ownership in 1984. While the tales of hauntings add a touch of mystery, the history of Guthrie Castle is rich enough to captivate visitors on its own.

When the Pena family purchased Guthrie Castle, they undertook a significant restoration effort to return the estate to its 19th-century glory. Daniel S. Peña, Sr., an American businessman, bought the property and revived it as a private residence. In the mid-1990s, Peña also built a golf course on the estate, offering guests a unique blend of history and leisure. For many years, the castle was available for public events, including weddings and corporate functions. However, in 2017, following a fraud investigation surrounding the wedding events, the owners made the decision to close the castle to the public, making it once again a private residence.

One of the defining features of Guthrie Castle is how it evolved through the centuries, reflecting the changing tastes and fortunes of its owners. From a fortified tower built for defense in the turbulent 15th century to the more refined baronial home designed by David Bryce in the 19th century, Guthrie Castle encapsulates Scottish history. The Guthrie family itself played a prominent role not only in politics but also in the ecclesiastical and literary spheres, further cementing the castle’s place in Scotland’s rich cultural tapestry.

Despite being privately owned today, Guthrie Castle remains a cherished part of Scottish heritage. Its stone walls, historic tower, and sprawling gardens stand as a testament to the Guthrie family’s resilience and prominence. The castle’s connection to William Wallace, its centuries-long occupancy by one family, and its ghostly tales combine to make it one of Scotland’s most intriguing historical estates.

So, whether you’re fascinated by tales of medieval Scotland, interested in the architectural evolution of Scottish castles, or simply captivated by the stories of the families who lived in them, Guthrie Castle has something for everyone.

Thank you for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." We hope you’ve enjoyed uncovering the fascinating history of Guthrie Castle with us. Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we journey to another one of Scotland’s legendary castles. I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always, Slán go fóill!

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to A Scottish Castle, A Day, brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re venturing into the heart of Angus, Scotland, to explore one of the most storied castles in all the land—Glamis Castle. From Shakespearean lore to royal history, this towering masterpiece is rich with legend, mystery, and grandeur. So, settle in as we unravel the centuries of secrets that echo through the halls of Glamis.

Glamis Castle is perhaps one of the most fascinating and historically significant castles in all of Scotland. For those familiar with Shakespeare, the name might instantly evoke scenes from Macbeth, where the notorious Lady Macbeth incites the murder of King Duncan. In reality, Glamis Castle had no direct connection to this tale, but the castle’s aura of intrigue has helped to cement its association with this dark drama.

However, Glamis Castle's true history is as captivating as any work of fiction. It stands proudly at the center of Strathmore’s lush landscape, its turrets rising high against the backdrop of the Sidlaw Hills to the south and the mighty Grampians to the north. The castle has been the ancestral home of the Lyon family since the 14th century, and its stone walls enshroud a tapestry of stories—royal murders, ancient family secrets, and some of Scotland’s most famous ghostly legends.

Let’s take a step back to the early days of Glamis. Before the imposing structure we see today, a royal hunting lodge stood on these grounds, where King Malcolm II was said to have been mortally wounded in 1034. He was carried to the lodge to die, marking Glamis’ first brush with royal blood and treachery.

Fast forward to 1372, when Robert II granted the lands of Glamis to Sir John Lyon, who would become the Thane of Glamis. This marked the beginning of the castle’s association with the powerful Lyon family, a lineage that continues to this day. Over the centuries, Glamis Castle has grown and evolved, shaped by the ambitions and tragedies of its many inhabitants.

One of the most tragic figures associated with the castle is Lady Janet Douglas, granddaughter of Archibald "Bell the Cat" Douglas. Married into the Lyon family, Lady Glamis was unjustly accused of witchcraft and treason by King James V. Her supposed crime? Allegedly plotting to poison the king. In 1537, she was burned at the stake in Edinburgh, becoming a martyr of sorts, and her spirit is said to haunt the castle to this day. Locals and visitors alike claim to have seen a mysterious "White Lady" wandering the halls—believed to be Janet herself, still seeking justice for her wrongful execution.

The supernatural legends don’t end there. Glamis is also famous for the chilling tale of the Monster of Glamis, a deformed child born into the Lyon family. The story goes that this child was hidden away in the castle, his existence kept secret, and that his bricked-up chamber still lies somewhere within the vast structure. While no evidence has ever confirmed this dark legend, the idea of a hidden, monstrous heir has sparked imaginations for generations.

Perhaps one of the most well-known ghost stories tied to Glamis is that of Earl Beardie. According to legend, this 15th-century nobleman was so obsessed with gambling that he declared he would play cards with the Devil himself. One fateful night, after refusing to stop playing on the Sabbath, a mysterious figure appeared at the table, and Earl Beardie was never seen again. Some say he’s cursed to play cards until Doomsday in a secret room within the castle. To this day, loud noises and eerie crashes are said to be heard on certain nights, marking the Earl’s ongoing spectral game.

But Glamis Castle is not only about legends and ghosts. It’s also deeply intertwined with British royalty. Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, spent much of her childhood at Glamis, and her daughter, Princess Margaret, was born here in 1930. The royal connection only adds to the castle’s historical weight and allure, making it a favorite stop for those looking to explore the intertwined histories of Scotland’s noble families and the British Crown.

Architecturally, Glamis is a masterpiece. While much of what stands today was reshaped and extended during the 17th century, the castle’s core dates back to the 14th century. The central tower rises majestically, surrounded by soaring turrets and wings that stretch out in all directions, creating an impressive facade that reflects both strength and elegance. Sir Walter Scott, who stayed at Glamis in the 1700s, described it as a place that felt "too far from the living and too near the dead," a sentiment that speaks to both the grandeur and the eerie atmosphere that pervades the castle.

One of the most striking features is the Great Sundial that stands on the castle’s front lawn. Created in the 17th century, it is supported by four stone lions and adorned with 84 individual dials—a true symbol of the detailed craftsmanship that went into the castle’s embellishments over the centuries.

Inside, the castle continues to amaze. The Banqueting Hall and the Drawing Room are adorned with intricate plaster ceilings and family portraits that stretch back for generations. The castle chapel, lovingly restored by the family, features beautiful stained glass and hand-embroidered altar cloths, making it one of the most intimate and spiritual corners of the castle.

It’s fascinating to think about how much history is encapsulated within these walls. From royal bloodlines and family feuds to stories of witches, hidden chambers, and doomed card games, Glamis Castle is truly a living chronicle of Scotland’s storied past.

And while today Glamis serves as a popular tourist destination, with visitors exploring its storied halls and lush gardens, it remains very much a family home. The current Earl of Strathmore, Simon Bowes-Lyon, continues the centuries-long tradition of stewardship over this remarkable piece of Scottish heritage.

Thank you for joining me on today’s journey through the history, mysteries, and legends of Glamis Castle. Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we uncover the secrets of another one of Scotland’s great castles. Slán go fóill.

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re traveling to the iconic Dumbarton Rock, home to one of Scotland’s most historic strongholds, Dumbarton Castle. Nestled on the banks of the River Clyde, Dumbarton Castle boasts a remarkable history that spans millennia—from ancient Britons to Vikings, Romans, and Scottish kings. Dumbarton has witnessed battles, sieges, royal intrigues, and has stood the test of time as one of Scotland’s most significant fortresses.

Dumbarton Rock is a natural wonder in itself. Rising 240 feet high, this volcanic plug of basalt is a relic from the Early Carboniferous period, formed between 330 and 340 million years ago. Its strategic location made it an ideal stronghold, overlooking the Clyde and providing commanding views of the surrounding landscape. The castle that sits atop this mighty rock has played a central role in Scotland’s military and political history for over 1,500 years.

The earliest records of human settlement here date back to the Iron Age. Dumbarton, known as "Alt Clut" in Brythonic, meaning "Rock of the Clyde," was the seat of the ancient Kingdom of Strathclyde. By the 5th century, it was the center of a powerful Brythonic kingdom, and Saint Patrick himself corresponded with King Ceretic of Alt Clut, as recorded in historical documents. The fortification grew in importance through the centuries, becoming a coveted prize for invaders and defenders alike.

The castle’s connection to myth and legend is also notable. Some stories suggest that Merlin, the famed wizard of Arthurian legend, stayed at Alt Clut, which Geoffrey of Monmouth immortalized in his "Historia Regum Britanniae." Whether true or not, the castle’s historical significance is undeniable.

One of the most dramatic periods in Dumbarton's early history occurred in 870 AD, when Viking kings Amlaíb and Ímar besieged the fortress for four months. Dumbarton fell after its water supply failed, and the victorious Vikings took captives back to Ireland. This marked the end of Dumbarton’s role as the capital of the Kingdom of Strathclyde, with the kingdom’s center shifting upriver to Govan.

During the medieval era, Dumbarton Castle was a vital stronghold for Scottish kings. It played a prominent role in the Wars of Scottish Independence. One of its more infamous moments came in 1305 when Sir John Menteith, the castle’s governor, betrayed William Wallace, handing Scotland’s national hero over to the English. This act of treachery has forever linked Menteith’s name with infamy, even though his later military service, particularly at Bannockburn, somewhat rehabilitated his reputation.

The castle’s strategic importance was recognized by the Romans, the Norse, and later by the English and Scots. In the 13th century, Edward I of England tried to wrest control of Dumbarton during his campaigns to dominate Scotland. During the tumultuous reign of Mary, Queen of Scots, Dumbarton Castle became a stronghold of support for her cause. After her defeat at the Battle of Langside in 1568, Mary attempted to flee to Dumbarton for sanctuary but was forced to escape to England, marking the end of her rule in Scotland.

One of the castle’s most daring moments came in 1571 when Captain Thomas Crawford of Jordanhill led a night assault to recapture the fortress from supporters of Mary, Queen of Scots. Using ladders to scale the sheer cliffs under cover of darkness, Crawford’s men surprised the garrison and took the castle in one of the boldest sieges in Scottish history.

Dumbarton Castle’s importance didn’t diminish with the medieval period. It became a key garrison during the Jacobite risings of the 18th century and even saw military use during World War II. Though much of the medieval structure has since vanished, the 18th-century fortifications still stand today, providing a glimpse into Scotland’s past military defenses.

One of the most enduring features of Dumbarton Castle is its connection to Sir William Wallace. After his capture, Wallace was briefly held here before being sent to London for trial and execution. Wallace’s sword, which was repaired at the castle in 1505, remains an important artifact, symbolizing the castle’s deep ties to Scotland’s struggle for independence.

Despite its many military engagements, Dumbarton Castle also served as a royal residence, particularly for King James IV. The king was so fond of Dumbarton that he used it as a base for his navy and frequently visited the castle. One of the most curious entries in the castle’s historical records is from 1495, noting that a piper from Dumbarton was paid for his services by the king—a testament to the castle’s lively history beyond the battlefield.

Today, Dumbarton Castle remains a powerful symbol of Scotland’s resilience. Though no longer a seat of power, its walls still echo with the stories of ancient warriors, betrayed heroes, and royal intrigue. The 557 steps leading to the summit of Dumbarton Rock offer visitors panoramic views of the Clyde and beyond, making it a must-see for history buffs and adventurers alike.

Thanks for tuning in to today’s episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." Join us tomorrow as we uncover another hidden gem of Scotland’s storied past. Until then, slán go fóill!

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today, we’re venturing just outside of Glasgow to explore Crookston Castle, a place steeped in romance, rebellion, and royal intrigue. Situated atop a gentle hill overlooking the scenic Levern Water, Crookston Castle is an extraordinary blend of natural beauty and historic architecture. This medieval stronghold, though often overshadowed by more famous sites, holds a unique place in Scotland’s past, particularly in relation to Mary, Queen of Scots.

Now, Mary, Queen of Scots, needs little introduction. Her life story—filled with joy, betrayal, and tragedy—has captivated generations. One of the lesser-known, yet poignant, chapters in her life is her connection to Crookston Castle. It’s said that she and Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley, spent their honeymoon within these ancient walls. That moment of fleeting happiness must have seemed far removed from the stormy future that awaited them both, a future clouded by political betrayal, jealousy, and violence.

But before we dive into that, let’s take a step back and explore the origins of Crookston Castle. Built around 1400 by the Stewarts of Darnley, the stone structure replaced an earlier timber and earth fortification. This earlier fort, dating back to the 12th century, was established by Sir Robert de Croc, a Norman noble whose name still echoes in the village of Crookston. The Stewarts, a family whose legacy would be forever entwined with Scotland’s royal history, transformed the site into a formidable stone fortress designed to withstand both time and attack.

Crookston Castle’s position was carefully chosen—it stands on a natural hill, surrounded by a defensive ring ditch that dates back to Sir Robert de Croc’s time. From this vantage point, the castle commands breathtaking views of the Renfrewshire countryside to the south, while to the north, the Levern Water winds its way toward the White Cart Water. Its strategic location made Crookston a key stronghold in the Stewart family’s network of defenses, even though it was never the largest of castles.

In 1489, Crookston was the site of a dramatic episode during one of Scotland’s many civil wars. The Stewart Earl of Lennox, a staunch supporter of a rebellion against King James IV, found himself besieged at Crookston. The king, determined to crush the uprising, brought the legendary cannon Mons Meg from Edinburgh to bombard the castle. The siege was short-lived, and the western towers were virtually destroyed, never to be rebuilt. Even after this, the castle remained a symbol of power and loyalty for the Stewart family.

It was within these stone walls, likely battered by Mons Meg’s fury, that Lord Darnley would later court and marry Mary, Queen of Scots. Darnley, a handsome and ambitious nobleman, had a claim to the English throne, making their union not just a romantic match but a political one. According to tradition, the couple may have been betrothed under a yew tree on the castle grounds, a tree that became a symbol of their union. Though felled in 1816, this ancient yew’s legacy still lingers in local folklore.

For Mary and Darnley, Crookston Castle was a place of happiness, if only for a brief moment. Their honeymoon here is often recalled as one of the few truly joyful times in their tumultuous marriage. Those days must have been filled with hope and affection, a sharp contrast to the violence and betrayal that would later come to define their relationship. Just imagine—Mary, the young queen, full of beauty and grace, walking the halls of Crookston, unaware of the tragedy that would soon engulf her life.

Darnley, too, changed dramatically after their time at Crookston. What began as youthful passion soon deteriorated into jealousy and paranoia. Darnley’s involvement in the brutal murder of Mary’s trusted secretary, David Rizzio, marked the beginning of the end for their marriage. Within a year, Darnley would be dead—murdered under mysterious circumstances that would forever taint Mary’s reputation and lead to her eventual downfall.

While Crookston Castle never played a central role in Scotland’s grander historical dramas, it is a quiet witness to these personal tragedies. The walls, now largely in ruins, still echo with the whispers of its past inhabitants. The northeast tower, the only one still standing to its original height, offers visitors a view that Mary and Darnley might have once enjoyed. From here, one can see the lush green fields, the winding rivers, and, on a clear day, even the distant slopes of Neilston Pad.

In later years, the castle passed through various hands, including those of the Dukes of Montrose and the Maxwells of Pollok. By the 18th century, Crookston had fallen into disrepair, but its romantic ruins attracted the attention of poets like Robert Burns and William Motherwell, who immortalized it in their verses. The castle’s lonely beauty became a source of inspiration, much as it had once been a place of refuge and celebration.

In 1931, Crookston Castle became the first property acquired by the National Trust for Scotland, marking the beginning of its preservation. Today, it stands as a monument to both Scotland’s medieval past and its royal history. Though its walls may no longer ring with the sounds of courtly music or the bustle of royal visitors, Crookston still offers a tangible connection to the stories of those who once called it home.

So, if you ever find yourself in Glasgow with a bit of time to spare, consider making the short journey to Crookston Castle. Wander its grounds, climb its ancient tower, and take a moment to reflect on the lives of Mary and Darnley—their love, their tragedy, and the fleeting moments of joy they found within these walls.

Thank you for joining me on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." I hope you’ve enjoyed uncovering the story of Crookston Castle with me. Tune in tomorrow as we explore yet another fascinating piece of Scotland’s rich history. Until then, I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always, slán go fóill!

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we journey to the picturesque banks of the River Ayr to explore the fascinating history of Auchencruive House, a grand estate located just outside the town of Ayr in South Ayrshire. Although not a traditional medieval fortress like some of the other castles we've covered, Auchencruive has its own unique charm and importance, especially for those interested in Scotland’s evolution from feudalism into the more modern era of agricultural and economic growth.

Auchencruive House, which also bears the name Oswald Hall, was built in the 18th century, but its origins stretch far further back. The estate has passed through the hands of several prominent families, starting with the Wallaces of Riccarton, before landing with the Cathcarts in 1374. However, it’s the story of its 18th-century development by Richard Oswald, a merchant and political figure of considerable repute, that truly defines the estate's lasting legacy.

Nestled on the north bank of the River Ayr, Auchencruive House was constructed on the site of an earlier mansion. The earliest record of a house on the estate dates back to 1532 when a tower house stood here, typical of the fortified homes built during Scotland's turbulent times. By the mid-18th century, the estate was sold to Richard Oswald, a figure who, though lesser-known in some circles, played a key role in shaping modern history. Oswald was not only a successful merchant but also a diplomat, responsible for negotiating the Treaty of Paris in 1783, which ended the American Revolutionary War and formally recognized the independence of the United States.

But before we get to Oswald’s political career, let’s take a step back and admire the architectural elegance of Auchencruive. After purchasing the estate in 1764, Richard Oswald commissioned Robert Adam, one of Scotland's most distinguished architects, to design the interior of the house. While Oswald slightly modified Adam’s initial vision for the exterior, Adam’s intricate work on the house’s interior was carried out as planned. The result was an imposing yet refined mansion that balanced stately grandeur with the comfort needed for a modern estate of its time.

One of the estate’s most notable features is Oswald’s Temple, a castellated tea house perched on a nearby hill. This structure, completed in 1778, served as a place of retreat and reflection for the Oswald family and their guests, offering sweeping views over the surrounding landscape. It is a reminder of the fusion of utility and elegance that characterized the best estates of the Georgian period. Today, the temple is a Category A listed building, recognized for its historical and architectural significance, although it has fallen into a state of disrepair over time.

Richard Oswald’s story is nothing short of remarkable. Originally from Thurso in northern Scotland, Oswald's early career was modest. He was said to have left Scotland after failing to secure a position as a schoolmaster, only to find incredible success as a merchant in London. His business acumen allowed him to rise to prominence, particularly during the turbulent times of the American Revolution, when he was selected by the British government to act as a peace commissioner. His negotiations with American leaders like Benjamin Franklin culminated in the Treaty of Paris, a pivotal moment in world history.

Following his diplomatic successes, Oswald retired to Auchencruive, where he spent the final years of his life until his death in 1784. The estate remained in the Oswald family for several generations, with each succeeding Laird adding to the estate’s grandeur. Significant expansions and alterations were made after Richard Oswald’s death, including the addition of a west wing to the house by his son, George Oswald, who inherited the estate in 1819.

While the estate was primarily a private residence, it also played a role in Scotland’s agricultural advancements. In 1927, the estate became the West of Scotland College of Agriculture, and the mansion was renamed Oswald Hall. For decades, the estate served as an educational and research facility for agricultural students, underscoring the continuing importance of the land for both the local economy and Scottish agriculture.

However, as the 21st century began, the fate of Auchencruive once again shifted. By 2007, the Scottish Agricultural College (now part of Scotland’s Rural College, SRUC) moved its campus, and the estate was sold off. Proposals for redevelopment included plans to transform Oswald Hall into a hotel and conference center, with Oswald’s Temple as part of the accommodations. Though plans were approved, financial realities led to a different outcome, and in 2012, the hall was sold to biotech company Neogen Europe, which now uses it as its corporate offices.

Even as it has moved into new hands, Auchencruive remains a cherished piece of Scottish heritage. In 2020, the house was restored to its original name of Auchencruive House, a nod to the estate’s long and storied past. The house and its grounds are also listed on Scotland's national register of Gardens and Designed Landscapes, recognizing not only the architectural splendor of the mansion itself but also the surrounding formal gardens and parklands designed by William Boutcher in the 18th century.

From its beginnings as a medieval tower house, through its role in one of the most significant diplomatic events of the 18th century, to its modern incarnation as a biotech headquarters, Auchencruive has continually evolved. Its history is a microcosm of the broader currents of Scottish history, from feudalism and agricultural innovation to diplomacy and economic change.

Thank you for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." We hope you’ve enjoyed exploring the history of Auchencruive House with us. Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we uncover the stories behind another of Scotland’s grand estates. I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always, Slán go fóill!

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re venturing into the heart of Lanarkshire to explore the mysterious and storied ruins of Cadzow Castle. Set high above the Avon Water in what is now Chatelherault Country Park, these ruins whisper tales of Scotland’s royal past, its fierce battles, and the powerful Hamilton family, whose name echoes through the centuries.

Cadzow Castle stands less than a mile southeast of modern-day Hamilton, but in earlier times, this land was known as Cadzow, a name derived from the Middle Scots “Cadȝow,” meaning "fort on the narrow strip." Built on the ancient hunting grounds of Scottish kings, the ruins we see today are just a shadow of a once-majestic stronghold. In fact, this was no ordinary castle; it was a symbol of royal authority, a hunting lodge for Scotland's early monarchs, and later, a prized possession of the powerful Hamilton clan.

The site itself dates back to the 12th century, when the original castle served as a royal residence for King David I and his successors. Nestled within the ancient Caledonian Forest, Cadzow Castle was likely used as a base for royal hunting expeditions. The dense woodlands and rolling hills provided the perfect setting for kings to hunt wild game, and even today, this region is known for the Cadzow wild white cattle, one of the rarest breeds in the world, still roaming the forest as they have for centuries.

Cadzow’s royal connections continued into the reign of Alexander II and Alexander III, who also enjoyed the castle as a retreat. However, during the Wars of Independence, ownership shifted. Robert the Bruce granted the Cadzow estate to Walter FitzGilbert de Hambeldon, the ancestor of the Hamiltons, after the forfeiture of lands by the rebellious Comyns. It was the Hamilton family, in the 16th century, who would transform the castle into a stronghold that stood not just for their power but for their loyalty to Mary, Queen of Scots.

Speaking of Mary, Queen of Scots, her connection to Cadzow Castle is one of the most dramatic episodes in its history. After her daring escape from Lochleven Castle in 1568, Mary sought refuge at Cadzow, where the Hamilton family, staunch supporters of her cause, welcomed her. But her stay was brief and ill-fated. Soon after, her forces were defeated at the Battle of Langside, and in retaliation, the Earl of Mar, serving as regent for James VI, ordered the castle destroyed. Though it was partially rebuilt in the 18th century, the damage left its mark, and the castle would never regain its former glory.

One of the most fascinating elements of Cadzow Castle is its connection to Sir Walter Scott, who was inspired by its romantic ruins and the surrounding woodlands. Scott immortalized the castle in his ballad, "Cadzow Castle," written during a visit to Hamilton Palace in 1801. His verses paint a vivid picture of the castle’s once-gothic towers and its lively halls, where princely Hamiltons hosted feasts and festivities. Yet, as Scott’s poem laments, those towers now lie in ivy-clad ruins, echoing only the winds of time and the roar of the nearby Avon Gorge.

The architecture of Cadzow Castle, or what remains of it, speaks to its turbulent past. Built upon a steep, rocky gorge, the castle was both a fortress and a statement of power. The dramatic cliffside location, combined with its proximity to the Avon Water, provided natural defenses that were vital in a region constantly on the brink of clan conflicts and political intrigue. From the massive Duke’s Bridge nearby, visitors can still catch a breathtaking view of the crumbling stone walls clinging to the edge of the gorge, offering a glimpse of its former grandeur.

Today, the ruins are carefully preserved by Historic Environment Scotland, though public access is limited due to the castle’s fragile state. But visitors to Chatelherault Country Park can explore the surrounding woodland and catch views of the castle from the many footpaths that wind through the estate. The park itself, once the hunting grounds of Hamilton Palace, still holds the majesty of its past, with ancient trees, including remnants of the Cadzow oaks, believed to be nearly a thousand years old.

Of course, no visit to Cadzow Castle would be complete without mentioning the Cadzow wild white cattle, often referred to as the Cadzow White Park cattle. Sir Walter Scott once wrote about the ferocity of these creatures, claiming they had to be exterminated. Thankfully, that wasn't quite the case. Today, a herd of about 50 still grazes peacefully in the park, offering visitors a rare glimpse into Scotland’s ecological and historical heritage.

As we wrap up our journey through the centuries with Cadzow Castle, it's clear that while the castle itself may lie in ruins, its legacy endures. From its origins as a royal hunting lodge to its time as a Hamilton stronghold and later its romantic ruin, Cadzow remains a symbol of Scotland’s rich and complex history.

Thank you for joining us today on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." I’m Colin MacDonald, and I hope you’ll tune in tomorrow as we continue to uncover the stories behind Scotland’s most fascinating castles. Until then, slán go fóill!

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m your host, Colin MacDonald, and today we’re taking a journey to the southern shore of the River Clyde, where one of Scotland’s most well-preserved castles stands—Newark Castle. Nestled in the heart of Port Glasgow, Inverclyde, this impressive structure has watched over the Clyde estuary for centuries, from its days as a tranquil trading hub to its evolution into a bustling shipbuilding center.

Newark Castle’s location was strategic—right where the estuary narrows, making navigation upriver to Glasgow difficult due to shifting sandbanks. For many years, this spot served as a critical place for offloading seagoing ships, and it was here that the foundations of Port Glasgow began to take shape. When 18th-century dredging efforts finally allowed larger ships to sail directly to Glasgow, the port around Newark Castle became a key site for Scotland’s flourishing shipbuilding industry. Even today, the echoes of this industrial past are still felt, with Ferguson Shipbuilders—one of the last shipyards on the lower Clyde—standing close by. Yet, the east of the castle has changed dramatically; with the shipyards gone, scenic landscaped areas now offer beautiful views across the Clyde.

Newark Castle was built in 1478 by George Maxwell, after inheriting the Barony of Finlaystone in the nearby parish of Kilmacolm. Originally, the castle would have been quite different from what we see today. The earliest structure was a tower house, surrounded by a defensive enclosure known as a barmkin, which would have included important outbuildings such as a hall, a bakehouse, and perhaps a brew house. While much of the barmkin is gone, one corner tower still survives, offering a glimpse of the castle's medieval defensive nature.

Maxwell’s descendants continued to build on his legacy, particularly in the late 16th century when Newark Castle saw its most significant transformation under Sir Patrick Maxwell. Sir Patrick inherited the castle during a time when Scotland was transitioning from its medieval roots into the Renaissance, and his ambitions for the castle reflected that shift.

In 1597, Sir Patrick Maxwell expanded Newark Castle, turning it into a three-storey Renaissance mansion, much of which stands today. He replaced the earlier hall with a grand north range and demolished much of the outer barmkin wall, sparing only the northeast tower, which was repurposed into a doocot—a type of pigeon house. The expansion introduced key features of the Scottish baronial style, including crow-stepped gables and corbelled turrets, making the castle a blend of medieval fortification and Renaissance grandeur.

At the heart of the mansion, a grand hall with large windows occupies the central part of the building, offering spectacular views of the river and surrounding lands. Below the hall are cellars with small windows, while above, there were living quarters for the Maxwell family. The castle's main entrance sits in the east wing, linking the Renaissance mansion to the original 15th-century tower house. A short west wing connects the main block to the original gatehouse, completing this remarkable transformation.

This grand expansion was a statement of wealth and power, but Sir Patrick Maxwell's personal life was far from serene. Despite being a close ally of King James VI, he was notorious for his violent feud with the Montgomerie family, particularly Robert Montgomerie of Skelmorlie. He also gained a dark reputation for the brutal abuse of his wife, Lady Margaret Crawford, who bore him 16 children before fleeing his cruelty. His legacy, while marked by architectural achievement, is also shadowed by these personal tragedies.

By the late 17th century, Newark Castle had shifted from a private residence to a key part of Scotland’s growing maritime trade. In 1668, the city of Glasgow purchased 18 acres of land surrounding the castle from Sir George Maxwell. This land was developed into a port that soon became known as “Port Glasgow,” and quickly grew into a thriving harbor, critical to the city’s expanding mercantile ambitions.

The castle’s fortunes, however, faded after the last Maxwell passed away in 1694. Over the next centuries, Newark Castle saw a series of non-resident owners and was rented out to tenants. One such tenant was John Gray, a ropemaker who also had a peculiar side business dealing in exotic animals. It’s said that he housed wild cats and bears in the castle cellars—quite a departure from its days as a noble residence! Later, another tenant, Charles Williamson, rented the castle’s gardens and cellars, but blocked access to the hall to prevent a fellow renter, John Gardner, from stealing his stored fruit.

Despite these odd chapters in its history, Newark Castle remained a solid, well-maintained structure. Even in the 19th century, visitors noted the well-preserved stump of the castle’s dule tree, traditionally used for hanging criminals—another reminder of the harsh realities of life in medieval Scotland.

In 1909, Newark Castle was placed into state care and today is managed by Historic Environment Scotland. Visitors to the castle can explore its fascinating mix of medieval and Renaissance architecture, wandering through its grand halls, cellars, and towers. The renovations and landscaping around the site now open up the stunning views across the River Clyde, making it not just a historical visit but also a scenic one.

With excellent visitor facilities in place, Newark Castle remains a striking example of Scottish Renaissance architecture and offers a fascinating glimpse into both the turbulent and prosperous chapters of Scotland’s history. While the shipyards that once surrounded it have mostly disappeared, the castle stands as a testament to Scotland’s maritime past and the enduring legacy of the Maxwell family.

Thank you for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." We hope you’ve enjoyed delving into the rich history of Newark Castle with us. Don’t forget to tune in tomorrow as we explore yet another fascinating story from Scotland’s illustrious past. I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always, Slán go fóill.

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com

Welcome back to "A Scottish Castle, A Day," brought to you by bagtownclans.com. I’m Colin MacDonald, and today, we’re exploring the fascinating history of Mearns Castle, a 15th-century tower house located in Newton Mearns, East Renfrewshire, just south of Glasgow. Mearns Castle is not only a Category A listed building, but it also stands as a unique example of how Scotland’s ancient structures have evolved over time. Today, this historic tower forms part of the Maxwell Mearns Castle Church and lends its name to the nearby Mearns Castle High School.

Built under the authority of a royal warrant issued in 1449, Mearns Castle was the brainchild of Herbert, Lord Maxwell, a powerful figure in Scotland during the reign of James II. The Maxwells were among the most influential families in the country at the time, and Mearns Castle was one of their many strongholds. Originally, the castle was designed as a defensive tower—a reflection of the turbulent times when Scotland’s feudal lords needed secure fortifications to protect themselves and their families.

Mearns Castle was with the Maxwell family for over a century until it passed into the hands of King James VI, who required the fifth Lord Maxwell to surrender it to the crown. Shortly after, it was sold to Sir George Maxwell of Nether Mearns in the mid-17th century, before eventually passing to the Shaw-Stewart family. For many years, it remained a somewhat forgotten relic of the past, its defensive walls and strategic importance fading as Scotland's political landscape changed.

However, the castle found new life in the 20th century. In 1971, the remaining storeys of the tower were incorporated into the Maxwell Mearns Castle Church, linking two modern Church of Scotland buildings. This unique blend of medieval history and modern restoration has given the old fortress a fresh purpose, allowing it to continue playing a role in the community even today.

The castle itself is a prime example of a 15th-century tower house. It was originally a four-storey rectangular structure, measuring about 30 by 40 feet, with walls a formidable 10 feet thick. This substantial thickness was necessary to withstand the sieges and attacks that were all too common in the era. The lower sections of the walls are built from rough rubble masonry, typical of early Scottish castles, while the upper walls are made from finely cut ashlar blocks, indicating that the tower might have been constructed on the foundations of an even older building.

One of the most interesting features of Mearns Castle is its now-sealed arched main entrance, which originally sat on the first storey and would have been accessed by a ladder. This entrance design was a common defensive feature of medieval tower houses, as it allowed the occupants to pull up the ladder in times of danger, making it much harder for attackers to breach the stronghold. Though walled up today, the entrance still offers a tantalizing glimpse into the architectural mindsets of the period.

Inside, the castle contains a vaulted basement room, once reached from the main entrance. The first-floor hall, also vaulted, can be accessed by a straight mural stair and features stone window seats—an indication that this space was likely used for formal gatherings or meals. In its heyday, the hall even boasted a minstrel’s gallery, where musicians could entertain the lord and his guests. This architectural detail, though no longer intact, gives us a sense of the daily life that once animated this now silent tower.

While much of the outer defenses of Mearns Castle have disappeared, faint traces remain. The rocky knoll on which the castle stands was once surrounded by a protective barmkin wall, following the natural contours of the land. A bank, roughly 10 feet high, was carved into the sloping ground to further fortify the castle’s approach, and a causeway led over this defensive bank to the tower's gatehouse. These remnants of outerworks provide crucial insights into the lengths medieval builders went to ensure their castles were not only impressive but also impenetrable.

Despite the passage of time and the many changes to its structure, Mearns Castle is one of the better-preserved medieval castles in the region. Thanks to the careful restoration work that incorporated the tower into the church, it continues to stand as a proud symbol of Scotland’s architectural and feudal past. Its story—like so many of Scotland’s ancient castles—is one of survival, adaptation, and resilience.

Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a student at the nearby Mearns Castle High School, or a local attending services at the Maxwell Mearns Castle Church, this ancient tower holds a special place in the hearts of many in East Renfrewshire. It serves as a reminder of the rich, layered history that Scotland’s castles carry with them, from their medieval origins to their modern-day uses.

Thank you for joining us on this episode of "A Scottish Castle, A Day." I hope you’ve enjoyed uncovering the story of Mearns Castle with me. Be sure to tune in tomorrow as we continue our journey through Scotland’s remarkable fortresses. Until then, I’m Colin MacDonald, and as always—Slán go fóill!

This is a public episode. If you would like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit ascad.substack.com