The cold snap didn’t break the house—bad decisions did. We walked into a vacant property with no furnace, water service left on, and a bathroom faucet growing an icicle. From there we unpack how frozen pipes actually happen, where they strike first, and why a little planning prevents a lot of damage. If you’ve ever wondered whether to leave the water on in winter, this story gives a clear, practical answer.
We break down the mechanics in plain language: water freezes at 32°F, but insulation and steady heat usually keep lines safe. Trouble starts at the weak points—crawl spaces, rim joists, exterior wall sinks, and hose bib penetrations—where cold air sneaks in and drains heat from copper, PEX, or galvanized runs. You’ll learn how to spot freeze-ups, how to thaw them the right way using a hairdryer, heat tape, or hot towels, and how a slightly open faucet keeps pressure down and ice moving in the right direction. We also draw a hard line on dangerous methods: no torches, no open flames, and no unvented heaters that risk carbon monoxide or fires.
Beyond the fixes, we talk prevention and responsibility. Keep winter setpoints around 55–56°F in vacant homes, open vanity doors on exterior walls, disconnect hoses, shut interior valves to hose bibs, and cap spigots with insulation. For sellers and agents, preparing a property for inspection means managing heat and water wisely, not just scheduling showings. Frozen lines can burst behind drywall, turn into hidden leaks, and derail negotiations. Our inspector will return after repairs to protect the buyer, but the avoidable costs and delays are a cautionary tale.
If you care about home maintenance, real estate readiness, and avoiding five-figure mistakes, this conversation is your winter checklist. Listen, share it with a neighbor who’s traveling this season, and subscribe for more practical home insights. Got a winter setpoint you swear by or a thawing tip that saved your pipes? Leave a review with your best advice and tag us so others can learn too.
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