Welcome to An Englishman in the Balkans, where I share personal stories, conversations, and moments of everyday life from my adopted home in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Whether you’re curious about the culture, thinking of visiting, or just enjoy a slower pace of storytelling, there’s something here for you.

Hello again. I’m David, a long-term resident of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

This episode isn’t about the beauty of the Vrbas river or where to find the best ćevapi (although there’s plenty of that on this channel).

It’s about why, despite living here for over two decades, I choose not to talk publicly about politics.

Now don’t get me wrong. I am interested. I follow what’s happening.

I see how decisions impact everyday life. But I also know, deeply, that this isn’t my country.

And with that comes responsibility: to observe, not interfere. To listen, not judge.

When friends and visitors ask me about the conflict, the three presidents, or the state of the country today, I tell them what I can. But the truth? The truth depends on who you ask.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is many things.

Complicated. Fragmented.

Yes, dysfunctional. But also endlessly generous, rich in stories, and deeply human. It’s a living archive of history, culture, pain, pride, and resilience.

In this episode, I reflect on the minefield of discussing politics as a foreigner, the legacy of the Dayton Agreement, and why it’s better to explore Bosnia through its people, not its politics.

If you’re curious about this beautiful, complex place, watch, listen, and maybe even plan your own journey to the heart-shaped land.

Thanks for listening. If you enjoyed this episode, you can support the podcast by leaving a review or buying me a coffee, it really does help keep things going.

Want to hear more or catch up on past episodes? Visit anenglishmaninthebalkans

For a deeper look into life here in the Balkans, check out my Blog at Coffee and Rakija.

Find us on ALL podcatchers at: PODLINK

Until next time — stay curious.

From Tbilisi to Baku—stories of activism, hope, and media freedom in Azerbaijan and Georgia.

In this special episode, I take you back to Tbilisi, Georgia, one year after my initial media training visit in 2015.

This time, I reconnect with some of the passionate individuals I first met and sit down with new voices who are using online radio and digital media to challenge the status quo in the South Caucasus.

You’ll hear from Zamira, a fearless advocate for digital activism in Azerbaijan, as well as two other remarkable change-makers working to empower youth, promote gender equality, and give ethnic Azerbaijani communities a voice.

Often in places where being heard isn’t easy.

These reflective conversations reveal the power of independent media in regions where mainstream narratives often fall short.

It’s a story of creativity, courage, and connection.

One broadcast at a time.

🎧 Whether you’re interested in media freedom, cross-cultural collaboration, or just love human stories that matter, this episode is for you.

Thanks for listening. If you enjoyed this episode, you can support the podcast by leaving a review or buying me a coffee, it really does help keep things going.

Want to hear more or catch up on past episodes? Visit anenglishmaninthebalkans

For a deeper look into life here in the Balkans, check out my Blog at Coffee and Rakija.

Find us on ALL podcatchers at: PODLINK

Until next time — stay curious.

In this episode, I take you far from my usual home in the Balkans, back to Ethiopia in 2012, where I was invited to help launch two newly licensed university-based community radio stations at Haramaya and Hawassa Universities.

Armed with years of broadcast experience and what I thought was a solid plan, I was ready to deliver media training on presentation techniques and programme structure. But I quickly discovered that I wasn’t just there to teach, I was there to learn.

This short story explores the challenges of building radio schedules from scratch in a multilingual, multicultural setting. It reflects on working with students who had never spoken into a microphone before, and on learning how to frame a story with empathy, often through tea breaks, laughter, and shared silence when someone froze mid-sentence on air.

You’ll hear about:

The raw talent and eagerness of the students in Haramaya and Hawassa.

How we built radio programming from nothing into something truly meaningful.

The quiet power of local storytelling in shaping identity, belonging, and community.

More than a behind-the-scenes look at training future broadcasters, this is a story of mutual respect, adaptation, and the crackling energy of change on the airwaves.

Whether you’ve worked in radio or simply tuned into your local station, this one’s for anyone who believes in the power of voice, authentic, community-driven, and deeply human.

🎧 So grab a cuppa, and join me from a dusty studio in Ethiopia to the quiet rhythms of life back here in northern Bosnia.

Thanks for listening. If you enjoyed this episode, you can support the podcast by leaving a review or buying me a coffee, it really does help keep things going.

Want to hear more or catch up on past episodes? Visit anenglishmaninthebalkans

For a deeper look into life here in the Balkans, check out my Blog at Coffee and Rakija.

Find us on ALL podcatchers at: PODLINK

Until next time — stay curious.

In this special reflective episode, I step beyond the familiar landscapes of the Balkans to the vibrant and complex South Caucasus.

Originally recorded in Tbilisi, Georgia nearly a decade ago, in 2015, this reflective and timely story explores how online radio became a revolutionary tool for connection, culture, and civil change.

Join me on the ground with media teams from Georgia, Armenia, and Abkhazia under the visionary “Radio Without Borders” project.

Hear how independent voices are harnessing digital airwaves to promote women’s rights, civil society, and even introduce the world to Georgian reggae.

Through candid conversations and powerful personal stories, you’ll meet resilient broadcasters and activists pushing back against censorship, overcoming geopolitical tension, and using media to bridge seemingly impossible divides.

💬 Topics include:

The role of online radio in conflict zones

Women-led media innovation in the Caucasus

Georgian reggae: yes, really!

Youth media empowerment in Armenia and Azerbaijan

Why independent voices matter—then and now

Whether you’re passionate about media freedom, international collaboration, or simply want to hear stories of hope in unlikely places, this episode will leave you inspired by the power of sound and the spirit of solidarity.

🎧 Tune in, and discover the radio revolution you probably never heard about.

Thanks for listening. If you enjoyed this episode, you can support the podcast by leaving a review or buying me a coffee, it really does help keep things going.

Want to hear more or catch up on past episodes? Visit anenglishmaninthebalkans

For a deeper look into life here in the Balkans, check out my Blog at Coffee and Rakija.

Find us on ALL podcatchers at: PODLINK

Until next time — stay curious.

In this episode, I pull back the curtain on what it’s really like to podcast from a rural village in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

From power cuts and patchy internet to roosters interrupting my recordings, this is the unfiltered truth about trying to create meaningful audio content in a place where podcasting is still unfamiliar to most people.

But despite the setbacks, I keep going, and in this episode, I explain why.

Whether you’re a fellow content creator, a podcast listener curious about Balkan life, or someone thinking of starting your own show from a remote location, this is an honest reflection on the joys and frustrations of podcasting from the edge of Europe.

🧭  What You’ll Hear in This Episode:

The surprising challenges of podcasting from Bosnia

Why podcast culture isn’t mainstream here (yet)

The emotional rollercoaster of podcasting in isolation

What makes it all worth it

Encouragement for creators off the beaten path

Have you ever tried creating something in a place that didn’t make it easy? What kept you going?

Drop me a comment on Substack, reply to this episode, or find me on YouTube.

If you enjoy the show and want to help keep it going, you can:

→ Share the episode

→ Leave a review

→ Or tip a coffee via Buy Me a Coffee

Thanks for listening. If you enjoyed this episode, you can support the podcast by leaving a review or buying me a coffee, it really does help keep things going.

Want to hear more or catch up on past episodes? Visit anenglishmaninthebalkans

For a deeper look into life here in the Balkans, check out my Blog at Coffee and Rakija.

Find us on ALL podcatchers at: PODLINK

Until next time — stay curious.

A Morning in Rural Bosnia

The gentle hum of a tractor in the distance, birds calling to one another across the fields, and a soft breeze drifting through the village, that’s how my morning began. Living out here, far from the city’s hustle, means you become closely attuned to every part of daily life, even the parts that don’t make it onto postcards.

A Visit From the Neighbour (and His Tractor)

Yesterday, my neighbour arrived with his trusty tractor. Hitched behind it was a massive cylindrical tank and a pump.

His mission? To empty our septic tank.

Now, I realise this isn’t the sort of opening line you’d expect in a blog post, but bear with me.There’s something oddly fascinating about it!

Night Soil Men of Old England

Watching him work reminded me of an article I read not long ago about how human waste was handled in 17th and 18th century England. Back then, there were brave souls known as “night soil men”.

These men would come under the cover of darkness to shovel out waste from cesspits beneath houses. They’d load it onto carts and haul it away, often selling it to farmers as fertiliser.

It might sound grim (and it was), but these workers were vital to keeping the cities liveable and preventing the spread of disease. Without them, places like London would have been both unbearable and dangerous.

The Ottoman Take on Waste

Meanwhile, across the continent in the Ottoman Empire, including here in Bosnia, they had their own methods. Cleanliness is deeply woven into Islamic tradition, so waste disposal wasn’t just about hygiene; it had a spiritual significance too.

In cities like Istanbul and Sarajevo, waste was collected at night by workers known as “lağımcılar” They’d discreetly remove it and take it beyond the city walls

The fascinating part? Farmers referred to this waste as “altın toprak,” or “gold soil,” because it was so rich and valuable for their fields. Some even bribed collectors to get the best loads first. Imagine that, fighting over waste because it was considered a treasure!

Old Ways in Rural Bosnia

Here in rural Bosnia, things weren’t too different. Simple pit latrines, wooden outbuildings called čardaks, and composting were the norm for generations. While we now have septic tanks and tractors with pumps, the essence remains the same: nothing really just “goes away.”

Standing there in, watching the tank fill up, I felt oddly connected to this long chain of human ingenuity, from London’s night soil men to Ottoman “gold soil” farmers, all the way to my neighbour and his tractor.

Staying Grounded

In modern life, it’s easy to “flush and forget”. But living out here keeps you close to the basics. You stay aware of the cycles that sustain us and the humble, sometimes messy, realities that remind us of our shared humanity.

A Tale to Tell

Next time someone asks me why I’ve chosen this quiet, rural life in Bosnia, far from big-city conveniences and endless pipes, maybe I should tell them about that tractor, the night soil men of old London, and the Ottoman farmers who prized “gold soil.”?

It’s a story that’s a little surprising, slightly humorous, but deeply human. It reminds me that no matter where we live or which century we’re in, we’re all bound together by the same essential needs.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

📌 I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

A Little Dutch Detour: Reflections from Haarlem

Hello from the village in Bosnia and Herzegovina! Today, I want to take you on a small detour, far from the familiar rhythms of Balkan village life and into the heart of the Netherlands. Every now and then, Tamara and I like to step outside our beloved Bosnia, explore somewhere new, and bring those experiences back home with us. This time, our wandering feet took us to Haarlem, a city that completely surprised us in the most delightful ways.

Arriving in a Living Painting

Our journey started in true slow-travel fashion: a bus from Banja Luka to Zagreb, an overnight stop, and then an early flight to Amsterdam. From Schiphol Airport, my brother-in-law picked us up, and we hopped on a local bus to Haarlem. We always choose the bus when we can, it’s slower, but it lets you soak in the scenery and ease gently into a new place.

Stepping into Haarlem felt like walking into a living painting. Picture narrow streets lined with leaning old houses, flower boxes overflowing, and shimmering canals reflecting the soft northern light. It’s about the same size as Banja Luka, but with a different energy. Elegant, easygoing, and deeply historic.

Coffee and Rakija is a reader/listener/viewer supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a paid subscriber.

Discovering Dutch Ways

For Tamara, it was her first time in the Netherlands. She found herself enchanted by the details: the benches in front of each house, the hidden gardens, and the easy smiles from passersby. One thing that stood out immediately was the bicycle culture. Everyone cycles, from school kids and parents carrying toddlers to pensioners riding electric tricycles. We even saw a pensioner being pushed along in a sort of “bicycle wheelbarrow” contraption!

Crossing the street was a mini adventure itself. You had to watch out not only for cars but for the army of speedy cyclists zooming past. And let me tell you, it’s easier to get knocked over by a bike there than a car!

Life on the Water

Haarlem’s canals truly stole our hearts. Boats drift by with families dining on deck, friends clinking glasses under the bridges, and couples lazily cruising at sunset.Tamara was completely taken by this “canal culture”. If she had to pick one must-do, it would be renting a boat and gliding through the waterways, watching Haarlem unfold from the waterline.

We also loved seeing the bridges lift for huge cargo ships, marvelling at the captains’ skills as they manoeuvred these massive vessels through narrow passages. Life in Haarlem felt deeply intertwined with its water, adding a beautiful, living rhythm to the city.

Unexpected Highlights

While the canals and bikes were highlights for Tamara, three things left a big impression on me. First, the classic windmill. Nno visit to the Netherlands feels complete without one. Second, the grand cathedral where both Mozart and Handel once played; stepping inside felt like stepping into a piece of music history. And third, the old prison transformed into a creative hub with a university, cinema, and co-working spaces. The Dutch truly know how to breathe new life into old places, recycling not just materials but entire buildings.

Thanks for reading Coffee and Rakija! This post is public so feel free to share it.

A Return to Roots

Standing on the North Sea coast at Zaandvoort, feeling the chilly wind and hearing the gulls, I realised how much travel changes us. Each journey brings new colours and textures to the life we return to. By the time we said goodbye to my sister and brother-in-law and boarded our bus back to the airport, we carried back not just heavier bags but new stories and reflections that will become part of our life here in Bosnia.

Staying Curious

I share these travel “postcards” not to drift away from Bosnia, but to remind myself, and maybe you too, that curiosity doesn’t stop at any border. If you ever find yourself in the Netherlands, skip the crowded streets of Amsterdam and wander through Haarlem instead. Rent a boat, sip Jenever (the grandfather of gin), and get lost in the hidden corners.

Have you visited somewhere that changed how you see your own home? I’d love to hear about it.Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

📌 I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

A City of Surprises

Skopje wasn’t what I expected, and that’s what made it so special. Over three days, I explored the North Macedonian capital, peeling back its layers like pages in an old, weathered book. This episode of An Englishman in the Balkans is a personal reflection of that journey. Part travelogue, part cultural postcard.

A Bite of Tradition

One stop I couldn’t miss was Destan, a traditional restaurant tucked into the old Čaršija, the Ottoman-era heart of the city. Half a somun, chopped onions, a fiercely roasted pepper, and a bottle of old-fashioned Coca-Cola. No frills, just flavour. And somehow, in that simple dish of local Ćevapi, I felt welcomed. It’s food that speaks the language of belonging.

Skopje, Through Local Eyes

The city’s energy really came alive when I sat down with my friend Risto. His stories gave context to what I’d seen. The Stone Bridge, the juxtaposition of brutalist architecture with neoclassical facades, the slow mornings over coffee and rakija. Skopje is a city of contrasts, but its heartbeat remains constant: community, resilience, and quiet pride.

The Rhythm Beneath the Surface

There’s something about Skopje that lingers. It’s in the buzz of the cafés, the calm of the Vardar River, and the casual kindness of strangers. Despite the cranes and construction, the soul of the city, its rhythm, hasn’t changed. And that’s what I’ll take with me.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

In this episode, I take you on an unexpected journey to Zenica, a city long overshadowed by its industrial past, where, alongside Tamara and our guests, we uncover rich stories, unforgettable flavours, and a surprising sense of beauty hidden in plain sight.

Not Just a City on the Way to Somewhere Else

For years, Zenica was little more than a name on a road sign to me. A blur on the highway between here and there. A city with a reputation steeped in industry, smoke, and steel. But as Tamara and I recently discovered, alongside our visiting friends, Chris and Jake, Zenica is far more than its past. What started as a spontaneous day trip turned into a surprisingly rich experience that challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes

Starting with Ćevapi – As You Should

No journey in Bosnia is truly underway until you’ve eaten something local. In Zenica, that meant tucking into a plate of their signature ćevapi. Served with a pillowy flatbread and tangy local yogurt, it was, quite honestly, one of the best versions I’ve had in the country. Even Tamara, a born-and-bred Banjalučanka with a discerning palate, agreed, it was a culinary highlight that set the tone for the day.

Walking Through Architectural Time

With our appetites satisfied, we walked the streets and started noticing the layers. Brutalist blocks from the Yugoslav era stood shoulder to shoulder with Austro-Hungarian touches, each building a chapter in Zenica’s evolving story. One moment you’re under stark concrete slabs, the next you’re admiring delicate archways and tiled roofs. And then, a mosque, simple, elegant, and peacefully commanding.A moment of serenity nestled within the industrial skeleton.

Echoes of Coal and Steel

Zenica was once powered by coal mines and steel production. Today, those elements linger as both memory and monument. We passed abandoned shafts and aging structures, listening to stories about pit ponies and life underground. There’s beauty to be found in the decay if you’re willing to look.

Tamara, reflecting on her own memories of the Yugoslav era, felt the weight and pride of that industrial legacy. Something hard-earned and deeply rooted.

The Stadium and the Spirit

One of the unexpected emotional beats of the day was stepping onto the turf at NK Ćeliks Stadium.

Ćelik is Zenicas football team, and the stadium is used by Bosnia and Herzegovinas national team, when playing “at home”.You could sense the pride, the passion. For Tamara, it was more than sport, it was identity, unity, and hope all rolled into one open field.

Up on the Hill, Looking Down

Later, we made our way up to a Partisan memorial overlooking the city. With mist curling through the trees and the valley spread beneath us, I launched the drone and took in a sweeping view that told a thousand stories. From above, the industrial sprawl softens, and Zenica’s layers come into focus, beauty and resilience holding equal weight.

Zenica, Reframed

I left Zenica with a completely different perspective. It’s not just a relic of heavy industry. It’s a place where history breathes through architecture, food, football, and community. A city full of contrasts, yes, but also full of life.

If you’ve ever overlooked a place based on reputation alone, maybe it’s time to take that detour. It just might surprise you, too.

Let’s Keep the Conversation Going

Have you visited Zenica or another place that turned out to be more than you expected? I’d love to hear your stories—drop a comment below or reach out on social. And if you enjoyed this post, consider subscribing for more reflections from the road less travelled.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Welcome to An Englishman in the Balkans, the podcast where I, share my experiences of life in Bosnia and Herzegovina as a British expat.

Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.

Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.

Coffee and Rakija is a reader/listener/viewer -supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free paid subscriber.

In this episode, I sit down with Aleksandra Drinić, a tourism expert working within Bosnia and Herzegovina, to explore the evolving landscape of travel and tourism in this often-overlooked corner of Europe.

Together, we discuss the transformation the country has seen over the past few decades, the challenges and opportunities shaping the tourism sector today, and what makes Bosnia and Herzegovina such a rewarding destination for curious, open-minded travellers.

From breathtaking nature to deep-rooted traditions, Aleksandra shares insights into the country’s strengths, the role of sustainable tourism, and why Bosnia is increasingly being seen as a rising star for those looking beyond the usual travel map.

If you’ve ever wondered what Bosnia and Herzegovina truly offers, not just to tourists, but to communities building toward a positive future, this conversation is a must-listen.

A Journey Through Time and Heritage

In a world constantly seeking the new and exciting, Bosnia and Herzegovina emerges as a relatively undiscovered gem on the international tourism map. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Aleksandra Drinić, a seasoned professional with over two decades of experience in tourism sector development, to discuss the country's evolving landscape as a travel destination.Aleksandra, who has extensive experience working with both international and local organisations in public relations and communication, shared her personal journey through the tourism sector. From studying abroad in the UK to her recent role as director for the northern region of Bosnia and Herzegovina with the USAID Tourism Project, Aleksandra has seen first-hand the rapid evolution of the country's tourism profile.One of the key aspects that sets Bosnia and Herzegovina apart, according to Aleksandra, is its incredible cultural heritage. She emphasises the importance of this heritage not just as a decorative backdrop, but as a driver for economic development. Initiatives such as the promotion of traditional river boats, like the "dajak," illustrate how cultural artefacts can become thriving tourism attractions, sparking local interest and fostering community pride.

Thanks for reading Coffee and Rakija! This post is public so feel free to share it.

The Appeal of the Undiscovered

"What makes Bosnia and Herzegovina so special?" I asked Aleksandra."The greatest strength, besides the stunning nature and landscapes, is the warmth of the local residents," she replied. "They offer a genuine and unpretentious hospitality that is hard to find elsewhere. Visitors often leave with memorable experiences not just of places, but of the people they've met."Historically, international perceptions of Bosnia and Herzegovina have been overshadowed by the conflicts of the 1990s. Yet, as Aleksandra notes, it's a ‘fully undiscovered’ gem that has grown in international appeal, moving from being a place people had little awareness of, to a destination now recognised for its beauty and potential.

Unveiling Local Treasures

Throughout our conversation, Aleksandra revealed how local populations are becoming increasingly aware of the treasures in their midst. The pandemic served as a turning point, with domestic tourism flourishing as locals explored breathtaking sites like the small water mills art Krupa na Vrbasu.Moreover, Aleksandra recognises tourism as a potential bridge for peace-building in a nation still healing from past divides. By sitting at the same table and collaborating on tourism itineraries, communities across ethnic lines find common ground, promoting social harmony.

Towards a Bright Future

As the interview drew to a close, Aleksandra spoke passionately about the future.

"If I had a magic wand, I would bring together local residents, creative minds, and universities to connect heritage with modern innovation"

It’s clear that Aleksandra's hope for Bosnian tourism lies in fostering collaborations that bring ancient traditions and contemporary insights together.Bosnia and Herzegovina is on a journey. Not just towards becoming a pivotal travel destination but also towards rediscovering and celebrating its unique identity. As Aleksandra's insights reveal, the nation has much to offer those curious enough to explore its landscapes and stories.For travelers seeking a new adventure, Bosnia and Herzegovina promises a tapestry of cultural richness, breathtaking nature, and the warmth of its people, making it a must-see on any wanderlust list.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

📌 I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

Until next time, take care, and as always, Hvala for listening.