I've got something different for you in this episode...which I hope that you'll find revealing, instructive, and extremely beneficial. I will take you through the process of working my mini-project during a recent trip to Germany. I'll share with you my thoughts, wide-ranging emotions, and problem-solving techniques in sussing out the beta, challenging my physical limitations (and fears), and going for the send on my final climbing day of the trip. I trust you'll find some techniques and tactics to adopt and adapt  to improve your boulder or route projecting. RUNDOWN 0:30 - And now for something completely different -- I hope you love this podcast!   6:18 - Deconstructing a project route: HERCULES (5.13a/7c+) Learn about my 3-session journey of sussing beta, managing fears, and developing a strategy for the send. 13:40 - Session 1: Sussing out the project. 15:40 - Session 2: Getting down to business... 16:20 - Address fears first. Working the first of 4 "chucks"....the unpleasant slab start. 22:52 - Working Chuck #2 - power climbing out a 25-foot overhanging wall and roof. Move by move beta is refined for efficiency and power conservation. 32:20 - Pro Tip: Taking "mental snapshots" of key holds. 34:25 - Dismissing phantom fears... 37:48 - Working chuck #3...the redpoint crux. 41:10 - Dialing in chuck #4...the anchor run. 44:00 - Time for two redpoint goes. So close! (Or, was I?) 50:40 - Message from the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 52:00 - HERCULES on my mind...for days! Visualization and game-changing beta ideas.  57:27 - Session 3 - Mother Nature provides a chance...but could Eric take down Hercules? 1:05:10 - Blow-by-blow commentary of the redpoint go -- a look inside the mind of Coach Horst. 1:12:00 - Closing comments. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint

Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone.

Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

Sports

Fitness

Health & Fitness

Wilderness

In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier.  You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of the very best boulderers on the planet. Learn how Drew puts his home woodie to work for maximum gains! Whether your climbing focus is boulders or routes, this pithy reductionist analysis of training for climbing will engage and enlighten passionate climbers of all ability levels. *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). *** In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on   La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

#98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing

The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won’t get you up a climb if you can’t hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there’s the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force vector are huge factors in determining how holds feel and will work for a given move. Last but not least, there’s your skin quality and the structure of your fingertips. Pulpy (fleshy) tips can deform around tiny rock rugosities to give a better grip on tiny holds and, similarly, skin that’s got adequate moisture and elasticity will stick to holds better than thick, dry, callused skin which yields a glassy and slippery grip. It's the latter topic of skin quality and specifically chalk-use to optimize grip that we’ll explore today. To help shed some light on this topic, I've got Kevin Brown, co-founder and CEO of Friction Labs chalk, to download on us some of the science of chalk and skin performance. So lean in and chalk up for this grip-enhancing episode of the T4C podcast! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to skin performance and grip--what things affect the quality of your grip? 3:00 - Overview of chalk and the role of "dryness". 6:00 - The effect of humidity, personal skin quality, and chalk use as it relates to skin wear and climbing performance. 8:35 - Use of Collagen powder supplements to improve skin elasticity, strength, and recovery of damaged skin.  9:20 - Importance of making quality efforts on skin-hard boulders and routes--save skin by making just a few quality attempts over many quick, low-quality attempts. 10:00 - Are all chalks basically the same? Kevin reveals the vast differences in chalk formulations! 14:00 - What's the optimal amount of chalk to have on your fingers? 16:30 - How chalk products on the market vary. Are added drying agents helpful? 19:30 - Common contaminants in chalk...and how they adversely affect grip. 21:10 - The genesis of Friction Labs...and new product development. 22:00 - The utility of liquid chalks--who will benefit from it and how to use it for optimal skin performance while climbing. 24:00 - Difference uses of alcohol-containing chalk versus alcohol-free liquid chalk. 25:00 - Is "drier always better"? What are the pros and cons of various drying agents such as Dry Hands, Carpe, AntiHydral, etc. 28:00 - The importance of developing a personalized skin-care routine... Tips on washing chalk off skin after climbing...and moisturizing skin. 31:00 - How to dry out your chalk...if it gets wet from rain...or deep water soloing. 31:35 - Responsible use of chalk, tick marks, brushing practices, etc. 35:50 - Closing comments and coupon codes *** Friction Labs special offer for T4C podcast listeners -- Save 15% at FrictionLabs.com with checkout code: T4C15 *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on   La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

#97: Getting a Grip! All About Chalk Use and Skin Performance

Lean in dear listener...and enjoy the most transparent Training For Climbing podcast ever! In this engaging episode, Coach Eric Hörst shares an in-depth analysis of his climbing weaknesses...and he reveals the specifics of his program to train for gains in 2024. Eric presents 4 primary action items of his winter training program, and he provides an assessment of his progress as of the end of January. One of Eric's primary off-season training interventions is twice weekly Kilter Boarding. Eric details exactly how he uses this incredible training tool. He also outlines the importance of consistent aerobic energy system training, especially for route climbers, and he provides details on important changes he's made to both his daily diet and sleep habits. RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to the most transparent TFC podcast ever! 3:10 - The need to perform an end-of-season "gap analysis". What needs to be done to reach big goals in 2024? 7:37 - The importance of willpower! And one of my favorite quotes: "The will to prepare for success is more important than the will of success." 10:18 - Eric details his personal gap analysis -- a very transparent examination of the things he feels are holding him back.  15:42 - Breakdown of the 4 Action Items in Eric's winter training program. 21:20 - Intro to Eric's winter training plan 22:17 - Action Item #1: Train to become a stronger, more powerful climber on bouldery sequences. Eric provides rich detail on how he's employed twice weekly Kilter Board training to achieve this goal.  29:20 - Eric takes you through his typical Kilter Board workout....from warm up to cool down. 40:00 - Eric shares some of his Kilterboard videos on Instagram: @Kilter_ehorst -- Follow Eric's FA boulders on the Kilter Board app via his username: ehorst  40:45 - Action Item #2: Maintain climbing-specific and generalized aerobic fitness through the winter training season. Lots of important details here for route climbers. 46:05 - Pro climber Amity Warme's incredible 2023 climbing season, finger injury, and rehab protocol and comeback story. Read a full article with details here >>  Read the latest research summaries of daily collagen use >> 51:30 - Action Item #3: Drop a few pounds of body fat...and get back to my "fighting weight" of previous years. Listen to Eric's major dietary changes. 1:08:35 - Action Item #4: Improve my sleep habits...to optimize recovery, health, and wellness. Learn about Eric's interventions and data gathering in this important area.  1:16:06 - Closing comments: Learn one of the key traits of top pro climbers that Eric works with or knows. 1:18:00 - Dear listener, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on   La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

#96: Training for Gains in 2024 (and my venture into Kilter Boarding!)

Do you want to level up in climbing...and across the board in your life? Many folks use the fresh start of a new year to set some goals and make course corrections in important life areas. I'm one of those people...and since you're listening to this podcast, you probably are too! Towards this end, this episode transcends climbing performance...and aspires to increase human performance. I will present to you 15 powerful strategies and concepts that have shaped my MO in climbing and life over the past 30 years...and I trust you'll find this information empowering and actionable in your own quest to level up your performance in climbing, career, and beyond! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings and Happy New Year! 0:50 - Use the new year to evaluate your life across the board...and make course corrections! 3:20 - Introduction to Eric's "Mental Wings" concepts and strategies 5:02 - Overview of human performance -- YOU, dear listener, are far more powerful than you can possibly imagine! 12:30 - Brief Podcast Sponsor message from PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-price nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com (USA and Canada only). International climbers, please get your PhysiVantage from the  EPIC-TV Shop >> 14:30 - 15 Mental Wings concepts and strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness 16:30 - #1: Your quality of life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts 18:15 - #2: Human beings are the embodiment of unused potential.  19:00 - #3: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do.  21:10 - #4: Clarity of values and goals, and a clear purpose for living form the foundation for a life full of rich, transcending experiences.  22:10 - #5: Risk is a precursor to reward.  23:15 - #6: Almost anything is possible once you conquer fear. 26:12 - #7: Singular focus and indomitable persistence knows no limits.  27:30 - #8: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger. 29:55 - #9: A fit body potentiates a fit mind.  30:20 - #10: Life is subtle—sweat the small stuff! 33:47 - #11: Your future is largely determined in the brief moment between stimulus and response (in any activity).   35:15 - #12: Maintain a dynamic, evolving life process by reinventing yourself from time to time.   36:55 - #13: Enjoy this moment—this moment is your life.   37:47 - #14: Unconditional love is the most powerful force in the universe.   38:20 - #15: In the final analysis, you are mostly self-made.   40:25 - Summary thoughts -- please share this podcast with a friend...or on your Social Media. (Thanks!)  42:00 - Send off! A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

#95: Mental Wings Strategies for Uncommon Success and Happiness

What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for a training client of mine (Ryan Devlin) as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86 and #91, in which I coach Ryan through the process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way...as well as a recent big breakthrough. With winter on the approach, the clock is ticking on this send season...and Ryan knows it! Lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it!  Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Episode #68 - Anatomy of a Redpoint

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