Antarctic Stories

Jerome Viard grew up in France and moved to the UK 13 years ago where he has enjoyed a successful career as a chef, having been head pastry chef at some of the best hotels in Cambridge.

In 2015, he was invited to embark on the adventure of a lifetime as a chef and field assistant for the South Georgia Heritage Trust’s habitat restoration field team during the rat eradication project. The team included 20 people from New Zealand, Australia, the UK and France.

It was quite an adjustment cooking in such a remote environment, with long hours and minimal fresh food deliveries. Nonetheless, Jerome was blown away by the wildlife and cultural heritage of South Georgia, and appreciated the strong community that was built on base.

In this episode, Jerome details the ups and downs of working on such a time-sensitive, high-stakes project in one of the most remote islands in the world.

HIGHLIGHTS

2:23        The journey from making desserts in a 4-star hotel to feeding a team of 20 on one of the most remote islands in the world

3:11        The job responsibilities of a “rat team” chef as well as helping bait as a field assistant

4:54        What was it like to cook in such a remote environment?

8:22        Making the most of versatile ingredients like powdered milk

10:07     What is Jerome most proud of cooking during his time in South Georgia? Beware those with weak stomachs!

13:20     Why was the rat eradication project necessary and what were the required logistics?

22:11     Keeping busy on base when the project was halted due to bad weather

24:20     The privilege of experiencing South Georgia’s hostile yet stunningly beautiful landscapes, including following in the footsteps of explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton

27:55     Jerome returns to South Georgia to support the work of the Heritage Trust

31:44     The difference between working as a chef 7-days-a-week for the rat eradication team and being a Museum Assistant with time off to explore the “travel zone”

33:32     A breathtaking memory - Jerome’s first impressions from the day he arrived in South Georgia in 2015

35:09     A jaw-dropping experience in Gold Harbour in the southeast coast of South Georgia

40:15     Jerome’s advice to those considering a trip to South Georgia

Expedition Doctor Lesley Cadzow was born in Scotland and spent her formative years pouring over medical books, with a keen interest in tropical diseases. She trained as a general practitioner before following an opportunity to New Zealand where she found herself working as a pediatric registrar flying premature babies around the North Island. 

She then settled in Australia and began her work with the Royal Flying Doctor Service, providing treatment to indigenous communities all over the country. 

Through a connection from her time at Glasgow University, she was introduced to expedition cruising and became an onboard doctor with Aurora Expeditions, a tour operator based in Sydney. This opportunity has taken her to the Arctic and Antarctic, and everywhere in between including Papua New Guinea and the Kamchatka Peninsula. 

In this episode, Lesley shares with us her fascinating journey from general practice work in Scotland to warming up an unconscious hypothermic scuba diver in Antarctica, with plenty of weird and wonderful tales along the way. 

HIGHLIGHTS

4:20 Early childhood interest in becoming a doctor pouring through medical books as a young girl

5:24 Flying premature babies as a pediatric registrar in New Zealand

6:58 Working with the Royal Flying Doctors Service bringing care to Australia’s most remote communities

10:23 Lesley’s introduction to expedition cruising with a trip to the remote islands off the coast of Scotland

13:07 Crossing the infamous Drake Passage on her first trip to the Antarctic Peninsula

15:09 A “beautiful and spooky” orca encounter while Zodiac cruising through the Lemaire Channel

20:53 Lesley recounts treating a hypothermic scuba diver during an Antarctic expedition

27:15 Practicing medicine in Antarctica is getting “back to basics”

28:25 The difficulty of stitching someone back up during rough seas

32:00 Acupuncture treatment in the Drake Passage and searching for contraception in the Orkney Islands of Scotland

38:23 What happens when the doctor is the one who gets sick?

43:40 A new sense of appreciation gained from guests who come on board with disabilities

47:38 Lesley’s special memory of being “land sick” amongst the penguins

49:31 Future plans including an upcoming expedition by camel to the “red center” of Australia

With an overwhelming amount of information about travelling to Antarctica on the internet, it seems like an easy way to narrow down your options is to ask other people on the internet (in FB groups or Lonely Planet travel forums, etc) what they recommend based on their experience when travelling there.

Today on the podcast we run through five reasons to avoid crowdsourcing your trip to Antarctica and what to do instead. 

Theo Crutchley-Mack is a contemporary British artist whose work appears globally in private and public collections. He strives to record the obscure landscape, often abandoned and remote, spending many hours outside drawing in sketchbooks that later become a reference for larger studies. His studio paintings start out as deeply textured wooden bases that form the foundation for a sculptural approach to painting.

In 2018 he was invited to the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia as part of their unofficial Artist in Residency program where he painted and documented the ruined whaling stations to help fundraise for the South Georgia Heritage Trust which works to restore the damaged habitats of wildlife on the island.​

Described as his most ambitious project yet, the artistic documentation of South Georgia's abandoned whaling stations has resulted in numerous ongoing initiatives which include talks, exhibitions, and even a book. 

On today's episode, he walks us through his experience discovering, getting to, and being transformed by this jewel of an island.​

3:15 How Theo first came to learn about the Artist in Residence program in South Georgia

4:00 Theo describes the lengthy process by which he heard about South Georgia's abandoned whaling stations and then proceeded to try to get funding to get to the Falkland Islands and hopefully, eventually make his way even further south

6:45 What happened when all of Theo's art materials ended up on the wrong military plane and went to Cyprus instead of South Georgia with him

8:45 Theo describes the process by which he was able to logistically get to and obtain government permission to access certain abandoned whaling stations in order to culturally document them

13:20 Theo describes his process for capturing the essence of these remote places and then turning them into works of art

15:30 The most unexpected element of Theo's time on South Georgia

17:05 Why Theo was worried about taking on this project in South Georgia

19:30 What has happened with the work that was produced as a result of Theo's time on the island

22:35 A bit about the book that Theo has put together on the South Georgia project 

Alexia Spencer is Chief Operating Officer running day-to-day operations of Polar Permaculture, founded by visionary chef Benjamin Vidmar. They are based in Longyearbyen, Svalbard and their mission is to improve accessibility to fresh and nutritious food through sustainable and resilient systems.

Polar Permaculture currently produces and distributes microgreens, culinary herbs and ornamental flowers to local restaurants and grocers, and their new hydroponic equipment will allow them to grow more leafy greens like kale and arugula.

In this episode, Alexia discusses the company’s vision for reducing waste, as well as current challenges they face such as complicated logistics in receiving shipments to their remote location and pre-existing government regulations, which are in the process of being adjusted to better support their mission.

This spring, Polar Permaculture hopes to expand their portfolio and offer locals the chance to grow their own strawberries and cucumbers at home. Long term, they are focused on “scaling with intention” as they develop exciting new projects.

To learn more about Polar Permaculture, visit https://www.polarpermaculture.com/

HIGHLIGHTS

2:20 Alexia’s interest in food security in extreme environments led her to Svalbard

4:02 What Polar Permaculture currently grows and is hoping to grow in the near future

5:35 The infrastructure required for their production systems to meet their potential

7:10 Where do they get their seeds, where is the produce grown and what grows best?

8:50 Local partners in Longyearbyen which support Polar Permaculture’s operation

10:15 How they manage any surplus of produce

11:22 The reintroduction of a “circular economy”

13:00 The composting pilot project aimed at minimizing waste

17:10 Current challenges to the growth of Polar Permaculture

19:25 What has the local reception been to the idea of growing produce in Longyearbyen?

21:30 What new produce will be grown with the new hydroponic system?

24:25 Their future vision for raising awareness and providing tools for building resilient food systems

We are joined once again by expeditioner Howard Whelan for Part 2 of his life story from the polar regions. In this episode, we continue Howard’s winding polar journey, including his involvement in the award-winning film Happy Feet, using laser scanners from a “bubble helicopter” to map grounded icebergs and sea ice.

We also discuss the challenges of organizing single-day climbs on the Antarctic Peninsula, and Howard remembers climbing a new route on Mount Demaria which sits across the Penola Strait from Vernadsky Station.

Howard also reflects on changes in the tourism industry. Notably, the increase in the number of vessels and the coordination provided by IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators), and how experiences can vary greatly depending on the flexibility and timing of the operation. Finally, we take a moment to appreciate that sometimes the truest of connections to Antarctica can be experienced in the simplest of moments.

HIGHLIGHTS

1:30  Being on the leading edge of tourism-based mountaineering excursions on the Peninsula

3:42  Observations of changes in the glacial landscape of South Georgia

7:45  Howard becomes involved in the production of the award-winning film, Happy Feet

12:25  Months spent collecting data to create the animated world of Happy Feet

15:30  Howard’s mentorship by successful businessmen and adventurer Dick Smith

17:37  Reflections on the tourism industry then and now

22:00  The challenge for today’s expedition leaders

25:04  A lesson learned about celebrating true connection with Antarctica

Howard Whelan is a polar expedition treasure having worked in the industry for three decades. But his story begins long before, starting with working in the dangerous environs of the Alaskan fishing industry as a teen, working at ski resorts and eventually becoming a journalist who moved to Australia and started up Australian Geographic. Not to mention he was part of the team that made the first Australian ascent of Mount Everest. And this was all before he ever set foot in Antarctica.

Howard later became part of the initial expedition team for Aurora Expeditions and was a part of introducing mountaineering as an activity for visitors to the peninsula. He has visited both the east and west sides of Antarctica extensively and was a critical part of the production of the award-winning film, Happy Feet. 

In today's episode, Part 1 of 2, we'll get a front-row seat for Howard's fascinating stories.

2:25 Howard talks about his induction into the more cold, remote parts of our world starting with working on a fishing vessel in Alaska as a teen

7:30 Howard makes his first connection with Antarctica when he's invited to design a brochure for an Antarctic expedition in the early '80s

9:00 Next comes an invitation to be a part of the first Australian ascent of Mt Everest

9:35 Howard gets invited to spearhead Australian Geographic

10:40 Howard walks us through the experience of being on the team for the first Australian ascent of Mt Everest

13:40 The early days with Aurora Expeditions in Antarctica going into little-travelled territory, and the influx of ice-strengthened Russian vessels that made it possible

16:20 The effects of their early presence in Antarctica on governments establishing environmental guidelines

18:10 The millennium New Year in Antarctica

21:35 Some of Howard's unforgettable Antarctic moments

28:35 Some of the moments he'd rather not relive

36:40 A tale or two from the cold north that may involve some polar bears

This episode is a slight departure from our usual programming. Buckle up for a deep dive into a truly fascinating topic...Antarctic crime.

Crimes which occur in Antarctica may be rare, but they are rife with drama and intrigue. In this episode, Heather Thorkelson and Lauren Farmer discuss the complicated legal background of investigating and prosecuting a crime on the white continent, where multiple countries can claim jurisdiction based on where the crime occurred and who was involved.

Several psychological factors also contribute to these criminal acts, including isolation and boredom. Paired with alcoholism, which is a known problem on the continent, trouble ensues.

Lauren and Heather take us on a wild journey through the most infamous cases, starting with an ice axe attack over a chess game in 1952 and finishing up in 2018 with an ongoing feud ending in a violent stabbing.

HIGHLIGHTS

1:05 Heather offers an overview of crime in Antarctica including what types of crimes have been committed over time

2:15 The legal background is incredibly complicated when it comes to which country has jurisdiction to investigate and prosecute crimes

7:23 Several psychological factors contribute to crimes in Antarctica, including isolation and boredom

9:55 The first Antarctic crime reported in any detail was a fight over a chess game at Russia’s Vostok Station in 1959

12:55 The infamous arson case at Almirante Brown Station on the Antarctic Peninsula in 1984

16:36 In 1996, a chef at the USA’s McMurdo Station attacked a coworker with the claw end of a hammer.

21:10 The case of Rodney Marks, an astrophysicist at the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station who died in 2000 under mysterious circumstances.

32:02 As recent as 2018, an ongoing feud results in a stabbing at Russia’s Bellingshausen Station on King George Island.

39:25 Lauren discusses the various types of crimes that may be committed during ship-based operations and the jurisdictional issues that arise

Southern California-based Caitlyn Webster is an “Undersea Specialist” who interprets the natural history of everything and anything under the sea. Through stunning videography, she’s able to bring the underworld to the surface and share it with others.

As an experienced dry suit diver, she is simply blown away by being able to breathe underwater and has been able to develop a truly unique career in marine biology and ocean exploration. Her background as a kelp forest monitor recording ecological aspects and key species in places like Africa and the South Pacific led her to her current position with Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic.

In this episode, she regals us with stories of coming eye to eye with a Leopard seal underwater and exploring kelp beds amongst diving guillemots at Alkefjellet in Svalbard, while emphasizing the importance of keeping calm, being present and trusting in your dive partner.

HIGHLIGHTS

4:00 Caitlyn details how she got her start in dry suit diving and was offered her first job diving in the polar regions

9:05 What is an “Undersea Specialist?”

12:40 The extensive precautions and preparations you have to take when diving in really cold water

19:25 The “sheer bliss” of the first 6 minutes and mentally how to manage the remainder of the dive as the freeze sets in

26:35 A “surreal” and harrowing first polar dive at Alkefjellet in Svalbard

45:30 The key differences between diving in the Arctic and Antarctic

51:20 A breathtaking encounter with a Leopard seal underwater in Antarctica

1:03:07 What Caitlyn wants everyone to understand about our world’s coldest seas

1:06:35 Why the “sea angel” is Caitlyn’s favourite creature she’s encountered in the polar oceans

Caitlyn on Instagram: @sea_webster

Caitlyn's website: caitlynwebster.com

Today on AntArctic Stories we have a different kind of guest. In fact, there are two: Tami Harris and Dave Weisman.

We've received a number of requests to feature "regular travellers" who have been to the polar regions so we invited Tami and Dave on the program to share their experiences.

Since retiring in 2012/2013, Tami and Dave have been spending about 75% of their time travelling, mostly internationally.

Listen to today's episode to hear about how the pair decided on which trip to take to the Antarctic, what they found was most unexpected about the trip, as well as what wowed them the most, before we switch to the Arctic where they share the contrast between their experiences in the North and South.

This is a must-listen for anyone in the planning stages of a polar expedition. Let us know what you think in the comments!

HIGHLIGHTS

2:40 - First things first: how Tami + Dave avoided booking the wrong trip to Antarctica!

7:10 - What they found most unexpected about the cold south.

8:40 - The duo share their most powerful memories from their Antarctic expedition.

10:45 - What specific advice do Tami + Dave have for someone planning a trip to Antarctica?

14:00 - What was it that gave them the idea to travel to the Arctic?

16:45 - They share their feelings about the difference between sailing on a 100 passenger ship in the Antarctic versus a 12 passenger ship in the Arctic

19:40 - Same as in the south, Tami + Dave share their most memorable moments from the Arctic.

21:45 - If people were looking for travel advice to the polar regions, what would Tami + Dave have to say?

AntArctic Stories is brought to you by Twin Tracks Expeditions - your experts in small-ship expedition cruises and unique adventures to the Arctic and Antarctica. We love sharing our insider knowledge to help you find your next polar adventure.

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