Bande à part

We talk about clothes worn by Isabelle Huppert and Chloë Grace Moretz in the film Greta and a slightly puzzling 1920s dress in the Museum of London’s collection. See links below.

Neil Jordan (director), Joan Bergin (costume design), Greta (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2639336/

Nick Chen, Greta is a film about loneliness, and using designer bags to make friends, Dazed, 16 April 2019: https://www.dazeddigital.com/film-tv/article/44019/1/greta-film-neil-jordan-chloe-grace-moretz-isabelle-huppert

Jules David Prown, ‘The Truth of Material Culture: History or Fiction?’, in Jules David Prown and Kenneth Haltman, American Artifacts: essays in material culture.(Michigan State University Press 2000), pp. 11-27

Valerie Steele, A Museum of Fashion is More Than a Clothes-Bag, Fashion Theory, Volume 2, Issue 4 (1998), pages 327-335: https://doi.org/10.2752/136270498779476109

We discuss punk girls in the 1982 film Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains and Bianca Saunders wonderful exhibition Nearness in Brixton, London. See links below.

Lou Adler (director), Nancy Dowd (writer), Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0082639/

Trailer for Ladies & Gentlemen: The Fabulous Stains (1982): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=06kCwPpyjCk

Caroline Coon, The film ‘Ladies and Gentlemen, the Fabulous Stains!’ was originally ‘All Washed Up!’: http://www.carolinecoon.com/stainspage.htm

Jessica Heron-Langton, ‘Bianca Saunders enlists her family to star in her new Brixton exhibition’, Dazed (25 October 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/46511/1/bianca-saunders-nearness-exhibition-ronan-mckenzie-akinola-davies-caleb-femi

Kemi Alemoru, ‘Bianca Saunders’ Black History Month exhibit is a comforting ode to the diaspora’, Gal-Dem (25 October 2019): https://gal-dem.com/bianca-saunders-nearness-new-exhibit-black-history-month/

http://biancasaunders.co.uk/

We wonder whether there is a trend for cocooning clothes to protect us from the anxieties of contemporary politics ... and discuss the V&A’s Tim Walker exhibition ... See links below.

Best in Show: Rebecca Arnold, Show Studio (2 June 2019): https://www.showstudio.com/projects/best_in_show/best-show-rebecca-arnold

Definition of froufrou: https://www.larousse.fr/dictionnaires/francais/froufrou/35436

Carola Bauckholt, Hirn & Ei (2010/11), performed at Detmolder Sommertheater (Juni 2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-fHqfGpmdw

Tim Walker: Wonderful Things, V&A (until 8 March 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/tim-walker

Have fun! by Tim Walker, Vogue Italia (14 November 2016): https://www.vogue.it/en/fashion/cover-fashion-stories/2016/11/14/have-fun-vogue-italia-november-2016/

Museum of London, The Kindred of the Kibbo Kift: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/kibbo-kift-collection-focus

Cathy Ross, Designing Utopia: John Hargrave and the Kibbo Kift (Bloomsbury 2015): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/designing-utopia-9781781300404/

Annebella Pollen, The Kindred of the Kibbo Kift: Intellectual Barbarians (Donlon Books 2016): https://donlonbooks.com/products/the-kindred-of-the-kibbo-kift-intellectual-barbarians-by-annebella-pollen

Biographical notes regarding George W. Taylor: http://dla.library.upenn.edu/dla/pacscl/ead.pdf?id=PACSCL_UPENN_RBML_PUSpMsColl1210

George W. Taylor, The Full-Fashioned Hosiery Worker His Changing Economic Status (first published 1931): https://www.upenn.edu/pennpress/book/1881.html

We discuss the new book Avedon Advertising - which includes an essay by Rebecca on Richard Avedon’s incredible work. See links below.

Richard Avedon, The Richard Avedon Foundation, Laura Avedon, James Martin, Rebecca Arnold, Avedon Advertising (Abrams 2019): https://www.abramsandchronicle.co.uk/book/9781419733383-avedon-advertising/

The Richard Avedon Foundation: https://www.avedonfoundation.org/

Helen Whitney (director), Richard Avedon: Darkness and Light (1996): https://youtu.be/4XElT1udbFM

JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon ・Lauren Hutton (1973) 120 second: https://youtu.be/DqBomuf2uGY

JUN ROPE’ CM / Richard Avedon・Anjelica Huston (1973) 60 second: https://www.collectibledry.com/fashion-and-beauty/jun-rope-cm-richard-avedon/

JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon・Jean Shrimpton (1973) 60 second: https://youtu.be/svR2XvhWXtc

JUN ROPE' CM / Richard Avedon・ベラシカ (1973) 30 second: https://youtu.be/Y2Y-SVck7n0

We talk about Lady Hale’s amazing spider brooch, the joy of seeing Dries van Noten and Christian Lacroix working together and Perry Henzell’s 1972 film The Harder They Come. See links below.

Dries Van Noten and Christian Laxroix (SS 2020): https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2020-ready-to-wear/dries-van-noten

Reiner Holzemer (director), Dries (2017): https://www.driesfilm.com/

Perry Henzell (director and co-writer), Trevor Rhone (co-writer), The Harder They Come (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070155/

The Harder They Come Trailer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imGkQdE7N2s

Ras Daniel Hartman (plays Pedro in The Harder They Come): https://www.rasdanielheartman.com/

Ulrick Casimir, ‘A question of audience: revisiting Perry Henzell’s The Harder They Come’, Jump Cut, No. 53 (summer 2011): https://www.ejumpcut.org/archive/jc53.2011/CasimirHarderThCome/text.html

Raphael Dalleo, ‘Performing Postcoloniality in the Jamaican Seventies: The Harder They Come and Smile Orange’, Postcolonial Text, Vol 6, No 1 (2011): https://www.postcolonial.org/index.php/pct/article/view/1213/1124

Kirsta Thompson, “I WAS HERE BUT I DISAPEAR”: Ivanhoe “Rhygin” Martin and Photographic Disappearance in Jamaica, art journal Open (14 August 2018): http://artjournal.collegeart.org/?p=10123

We discuss the wonders of Bonhams jewellery sale and the historical references contained within jewellery design

Still Processing podcast: https://www.nytimes.com/column/still-processing-podcast

Emily Barber: https://www.instagram.com/gemilybarber/

Bonhams Jewels: https://www.instagram.com/bonhamsjewels/?hl=en

London Jewels auction, Bonhams (24 September 2019): https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/25315/

Buccellati: http://uk.buccellati.com/en/private-collection

London’s Fashion Alphabet, G – Garnet (17 September 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgS1RK-nIFQ

Alice Cicolini: http://www.alicecicolini.com/

William Hogarth, Miss Mary Edwards (1742), The Frick Collection: https://collections.frick.org/objects/details/207/miss-mary-edwards

We discuss the evolution of fashion shows and debate the reason for their continuation. See links below.

Pyer Moss: https://pyermoss.com/

Vanessa Friedman, ‘The Rebirth of New York Fashion’, New York Times (12 September 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/12/style/marc-jacobs-new-york-fashion-week.html

Leandra Medine, ‘Why Was NYFW Trendless This Season?’, Manrepeller (9 September 2019):

https://www.manrepeller.com/2019/09/nyfw-trends.html

Rodarte: http://www.rodarte.net/

John Maybury (director), Rifat Ozbek Fashion Video 1989: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcCYlg7cAPc

Tatum Dooley, 'Vaquera, CDLM/Creatures of the Wind, and Section 8 Will Showcase Their Spring Summer 2020 Collections Together During NYFW’, Teen Vogue (13 August 2019): https://www.teenvogue.com/story/brands-will-stage-three-way-fashion-show-nyfw-springsummer2020

Thebe Magugu: https://www.thebemagugu.com

Elizabeth Paton, ‘Thebe Magugu Wins LVMH Prize for Young Designers’, New York Times (4/9 September 2019): https://www.nytimes.com/2019/09/04/fashion/thebe-magugu-wins-lvmh-prize-for-young-designers.html

Tamsin Blanchard, Matt Fidler and Joanna Ruck, ‘The view from the front row – a history of the fashion show – photo essay’, The Guardian online (15 February 2018): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/feb/15/the-view-from-the-front-row-a-history-of-the-fashion-show-photo-essay

We talk about cosmetics between the wars, the traces our garments leave on us and our surroundings as well as the times when clothes fail us. See links below.

Rebecca Arnold, ‘The Kodak Ensemble: Fashion, Images and Materiality in 1920s America’, Fashion Theory (15 July 2019): https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2019.1638166

The Vintage Compact Shop, Richard Hudnut (15 April 2017): https://thevintagecompactshop.com/blogs/antique-and-collectible-history/richard-hudnut-compacts-heritage

Tre-Jur Advertisement (1924): https://www.periodpaper.com/products/1924-ad-tre-jur-makeup-cosmetics-compact-lipstick-blush-rouge-powder-jewel-case-116999-thm-232

Grace Lee, Evening Essential: Grace’s Family’s 1930s Minaudière, Documenting Fashion (12 December 2017): http://blog.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/tag/minaudiere/

Ewald André Dupont (director), Piccadilly (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020269/

Aria Darcella, Remember when a dress almost destroyed Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers?, CR (21 June 2018):

https://www.crfashionbook.com/celebrity/a21656038/fred-astaire-ginger-rogers-wardrobe-malfunction/

Jean Harlow and Wallace Beery in George Cukor (director), Dinner at Eight (1933): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=om9nTKzGXqc (gowns by Adrian)

Mitchell and Kenyon Collection. September 1902 – Fair in North England, Leeds (1902): https://youtu.be/zABSkm8Q3mE (nice selection of feathered accessories)

Styling Hollywood, Netflix (2019): https://www.netflix.com/gb/title/80204364

We talk about a recent visit to the Imperial War Museum North, particularly the interplay of architecture and objects. See links below.

Imperial War Museum North: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-north

Daniel Libeskind, IWM Project: https://libeskind.com/work/imperial-war-museum-north/

Peter Jackson, They Shall Not Grow Old, Trailer (2018): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcgceA64aAI

Uniforms and insignia on display at IWM: https://tinyurl.com/y5qtg86b

Marlene Dietrich’s uniform jacket: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30099912

Marlene Dietrich’s uniform trousers: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/30099913

War Through Other Stuff: https://warthroughotherstuff.wordpress.com/

We discuss the wonderful exhibition of Finnish artist Helene Schjerfbeck’s work at the Royal Academy. See links below.

Helene Schjerfbeck, Royal Academy of Arts (20 July – 27 October 2019): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/exhibition/helene-schjerfbeck

Helene Schjerfbeck, Schirn Kunsthallle Frankfurt (2 October 2014 – 11 January 2015): http://schirn.de/schjerfbeck/ (good introduction)

Tina Berning: https://www.instagram.com/tina_berning and https://tinaberning.de/